Hardware

@Oitzu - From the information in the past replies and your original post i thought you was using the IRLZ44N.... If you did get this working, attempt to find the part you used please. I will order some genuine version from Farnell(Element 14) and compare the success to that of the Aliexpress version.

You can put 100uf on each ;) even 200uf would not be able to handle only one tx, so.. but you need them at least for coin cells. you would need more capa to handle tx..but the more capa the more time they take for recharging, and the recharging if big, increase internal res of the coin cell and that's not so good too; to prevent this that would need a current resistor limiter..etc a whole balance! On mine for instance, I have 100uF for coincell, 100uF for PIR and 86uf on radio. Fresh varta coincell 3.02V, after multiple presentation tx 2.85V if I remember, not so bad. but that's an homemade pcb. Another notes, it's better to use ceramic capacitor (because of leakage, if you want to optimize), and better smd, but that's not your case I think.

@leeoz yes, you can attach sensors to an ESP8266 and then communicate with the controller but you need to use the Gateway sketch and add the sensor code to that. Basically it will be another gateway with locally attached sensors. However, as far as I know you can not build a "MySensors" radio network by using WiFi.

Several years ago I built my Ethernet Gateway using this iBoard and the MySensors 1.2 firmware. I made the wiring changes on the board to use the "vanilla" Ethernet Gateway software and the NRF24L01 Radio. I am still using it but I'm ready to make the move to MySensors 2.0 so I'm pleased to see the board works with the new library. Did you make physical wiring changes on your hardware to suit the radio or just make the changes in changes in the Config. I have two of the iBoards, one with modified traces and one out of the box so I can go either way

@hensing just look at the data sheet. Features • Wide Single−Supply Range: 2.0 Vdc to 36 Vdc • Split−Supply Range: ± 1.0 Vdc to ± 18 Vdc • Very Low Current Drain Independent of Supply Voltage: 0.4 mA • Low Input Bias Current: 25 nA • Low Input Offset Current: 5.0 nA • Low Input Offset Voltage: 5.0 mV (max) LM293/393 I wouldn't worry about the LM393 destroying your Arduino.

@linus72982 For a door sensor there is little use in 'polling' the door state from the base station; it's much more efficient to only send the state changes from the sensor to the base station. That's probably what the SimpliSafe does, so the sensors can powerdown their radios until a door's state changes. You can achieve the same thing using an nRF24 radio and wire the door contact to an interrupt pin of the AVR. The AVR and radio will be asleep at very low power until woken by the interrupt. Once an interrupt occurs the sensor will send the new state to the gateway+controller ('base station'). This scenario is very energy efficient and can easily run for a long time without replacing batteries. See e.g. this example sketch on how to achieve this with MySensors.

@vga said: looking for a better range Did you consider switching to RFM69 (sub-Ghz)?

ah, thanks mfalkvidd, thats what i´m looking for!

This looks great! Thanks a lot @dbemowsk !

Edit : It works. Just add #define MY_OTA_FLASH_JDECID 0xEF30

@mfalkvidd said: Interesting find! AT&T (and probably others) are in process of shutting down their 2G networks though - so anyone planning to use this module should check if they will still have 2G coverage in a year (or whatever time is applicable to your project). Has anyone seen if it is possible to use the ESP8266 as a NAT device? ESP8266 + this module would be a super-compact mobile internet router. I think they all are.. 2G will be no more in the next 12 months. (may not be an issue in countries outside the USA)

If you have TL light in the room where the meter is located will cause false pulses when you turn on/off the light. Try adding caps on both ends (near the kwh meter and your arduino)

The updates have been applied to Rev 2, below we have a list of everything that has been added/modified; Modification footprint for 3 items to make it easier to mount (Slow blow fuse, Thermal Fuse and Voltage Regulator) when hand soldering. Modification to nRF24L01+ Module to remove the short to ground on VCC line. Added the additional silkscreen labeling that was missed off by accident. This should be all that is needed for Rev 2 to be a successor to the Rev 1. We still have the issue with having to use pogo pins to program through the ISP connection, or to temporarily solder jumper wire into the 6 pin connection while uploading, then everything else can be programmed through the on-board FTDI connection. Will get the gerber files generated ASAP and then get them sent off for testing production runs.

@Lars65 Nice work!

New boards are ready and are being tested. Here is one connected to a Bluetooth module charging a battery: [image: 1469517443838-img_0051_mala.jpg] This is the code used in battery voltage and charge current monitoring: float readVcc() { signed long resultVcc; float resultVccFloat; // Read 1.1V reference against AVcc ADMUX = _BV(REFS0) | _BV(MUX3) | _BV(MUX2) | _BV(MUX1); delay(10); // Wait for Vref to settle ADCSRA |= _BV(ADSC); // Convert while (bit_is_set(ADCSRA,ADSC)); resultVcc = ADCL; resultVcc |= ADCH<<8; resultVcc = 1126400L / resultVcc; // Back-calculate AVcc in mV resultVccFloat = (float) resultVcc / 1000.0; // Convert to Float return resultVccFloat; } const int current = A6; const int lipo = A7; float vout = 0.0; float vin = 0.0; int value = 0; void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); } void loop() { float napetost = readVcc(); float tok = ((analogRead(current) * napetost / 1024 ) * 1200) / 3; // convert the ADC value of charge current to miliamps float baterija = ( analogRead(lipo) * napetost / 1024 ) * 2; // measuring battery voltage Serial.print("Vcc = "); Serial.print(napetost); Serial.println("V"); delay(400); Serial.print("Charge current = "); Serial.print(tok); Serial.println("mA"); delay(400); Serial.print("Battery voltage = "); Serial.print(baterija); Serial.println("V"); delay(400); Serial.println("----------------------------"); delay(2000); } /* Improving accuracy: To do so, simply measure your Vcc with a voltmeter and with our readVcc() function. Then, replace the constant 1107035L with a new constant: scale_constant = internal1.1Ref * 1024 * 1000 where internal1.1Ref = 1,1 * Vcc1 (per voltmeter) / Vcc2 (per readVcc() function) Example: For instance, I measure 3,43V from my FTDI, the calculated value of Vref is 1,081V. So (1,081 x 1000 x 1024) = 1107034,95 or 1107035L rounded up. Use smoothing example from IDE to smooth the data from ADC. */ Charge current is limited to 400mA and can be easily changed to another value by changing just one resistor.

The regulator is directly to the left of the led. It has 3 legs on one side and 2 on the other. I use a small side cutter to cut the 2 legs and then i wiggle the regulator up and down until the 3 legs break.

@Jason-Brunk small value resistors can do the trick but you better try two silicon diodes 1N4001 or similar in series with the power line. Each diode give you around.0.7 volt drop.

@popunonkok If you want to change location of your devices, plug in Gateway fist, then repeater and last your nodes. If you don't see your node in your Controller it can be that there is no con crib between node and GW/Repeater.