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Talk about fun sensor hardware, MCUs, PCBs and how to power your sensors here.
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  • Motion sensor withput the interrupt

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    Z
    I think you are on the right track. There' s no need for the interrupt in your case. So you don't have to worry about what process is being interrupted. @ferpando said: It was just a quick proof of concept.. I guess I should set tripped to false once the message is sent John had the right logic. You don't want to set tripped false until the input (ie: motion dectector output) goes false, not when a message is sent. His suggested logic sends one message whenever the motion detector goes active, and not again until it goes inactive and active again. (Which happens after no motion for some time period adjustable via a pot on the motion detector).
  • Powering sensors through the digital pins?

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    D
    I'm usually doing this test for each and every sensor i bought and I can confirm that many of them can work without problems. Sensors like DHT seems to need a delay(500), before call the sensor read function, in order to let him "boot-up" otherwise you will experience communication errors. Sensors connected to analog input, like soil humidity, will not give correct measurement, if the precision is not your must is possible to use pin powering, Pay attention on the max current required for the sensor, if you exceed that the Arduino will be damaged. Measure it before to connect! Radio cannot be powered by digital pin (too much current during transmission). Arduino has also a maximum total current that normally can never be exceeded, special attention to be given if you use radio with PA antenna!
  • Battery powering options

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    Z
    The title is about batteries, but the subject of using cheap phone chargers has come up. Small note: Whenever I refer to "the regulator" below, I'm talking about the onboard regulator of the arduino variant you are using, not to any regulator chips inside the phone charger. Just to be very clear. Safety: If you ARE going to use cheap phone chargers, at least buy several and crack one open to look at the isolation on the PCB. (look at the pics on some web sites that have done this to get an idea what you are looking for) Then always unplug it before working on the sensor node - use an alternate high quality supply while programming and testing, Just In Case. And don't have any exposed conductors on your finished node, that could be touched. I would avoid the most compact ones with little room inside the case. And you might want to test the temperature of the charger under load before deciding to use a given model. Power quality. At least measure the output with a voltmeter, under the loads you use. If you try to run a 5V arduino (eg: APM = Arduino Pro Micro) from a 5V charger you could have problems (you must test). If you use Vin, you will likely have problems because there isn't enough voltage differential for regulation, a condition known as dropping out of regulation or drop-out. There are regulators with low drop out (LDO) specs that require less difference between input and output voltage, but those specs vary depending on the regulator and load. The ATMega chips have a lot of slack, so a 16 Mhz chip will probably still run fine if the output of the regulator is, say, 4.5v or maybe 4.0 volts so the voltage drop may not be critical. But the regulator may not be keeping the supply as stable when in drop-out - varying the voltage as load changes or passing through variations in the supply voltage (coming from a cheap charger). So you may be tempted to just feed the charger 5v into the arduino's VCC=5V pin. That may work, but (1) some regulators don't like having power applied to their output pin only, so check that it doesn't overheat or remove it, and (2) the regulation on cheap chargers can sometimes be very bad - either off-voltage or with a lot of ripple and noise. Some are better than others. Expect the cheap ones to usually get flakey in these regards well under their nominal supply (eg: a charger which says 1A might work well only up to half that). And they may be poor even at low current. If you have a scope you can look at it (being careful about isolation and safety). If you have a 3.3v arduino, you can probably feed the charger's 5v signal into its Vin and get a reasonably well regulated VCC=3.3v. WIth the above qualifiers, some cheap chargers work fine in the right situation. Of course, you should instead get a high quality power supply for each node. One problem is knowing that it is indeed a high quality supply - just paying more isn't a perfect predictor of that. Using a name brand may help, but there are plenty of reports of problems with name brand suppies too (tho we hope they are statistically less common). And a good supply may sometimes cost more than the node (3.3v APM = $3.50, nRF24L01+ = $1, dht-11 = $1, power supply = $10?)
  • Water Flow Sensor

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    RJ_MakeR
    @tbully Nice find... Seems like there are more and more power related issues popping up lately..
  • AIRduino

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    hekH
    @hek said: AIRduino Oouch.. OTA serial communication. Didn't read the spec enough :blush:
  • IKEA PATRULL Nightlight

    diy ikea hack
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    S
    It would be nice to control the Patrull similarly to http://thingm.com/products/blink-1/.
  • Inverse gateway leds behavior

    gateway
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    JohnJ
    @hek [original_post_deleted] @Damme Yeah, i think i will go for an HW solution... Maybe with a switch to choose between modes...
  • Multiple DH-11 Sensors on the same Arduino Pin?

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    clippermiamiC
    @Zeph OK by me. But I would observe that like any conversation in "the real world" it tends to branch out, and this is no exception. And things are only controversial or divisive if we choose to make them so.
  • Just to be sure about connecting a W25X40CLSNIG

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    YveauxY
    This is work in progress: http://www.dorkbotpdx.org/blog/paul/spi_transactions_in_arduino
  • Transformers

    transformer
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    Z
    @jendrush said: Maybe small usb wall charger for 1,4$, and regulator from 5V to 3.3V for 0,1$ would be good solution? For some projects, using cheap chargers can be a good option. However, I'd open any such cheap charger and have a look before using it. Some appear to be acceptably designed, and some appear to be dangerous designs, from the teardowns. For example: http://www.righto.com/2012/10/a-dozen-usb-chargers-in-lab-apple-is.html He rated 2 out of the batch as downright dangerous. Even with one which appears to have a reasonable design with enough separation, I would not be poking around in the sensors or PCB while they are currently powered from 230V with a cheap charger. Unplug first. And if you need power for programming or testing, use your normal USB supply (eg: a laptop or a high quality power supply) or batteries. Maybe that's just me, but this seems like a reasonably easy additional precaution. Even if the PCB has good separation, the insulation between windings of a transformer could be marginal, for example. Most readers here probably already know this, just thought it was worth noting for anybody coming to this hobby more recently.
  • Antenna 101

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    DammeD
    @daulagari I had the chance of borrowing a hand held RF spectrum analyzer for a very short while (2h) I would love to do some more scientific measurements on all my transmitting apparatus.. :)
  • Resistor Supplier

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    hekH
    @naveen Buy them where you can find them cheap.. There are a lot of kits on ebay where you find resistors with assorted resistance. Local suppliers should keep these kinds of kits also.
  • Motion Sensor, flaky behavior

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    jendrushJ
    @BulldogLowell I fried my breadbord power supply by connecting broken power adaptor(it have me about 13-14V instead of up to 12V), this fried AMS1117 5V. I replaced it, and it's working proper again.
  • Sleep/Wake/TXRx Cycle

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    YveauxY
    @therik What about the first part of the scope chart, starting from 0 sec? What is the sketch doing there for more than half a second? It was reading temperatures, but for how many sensors?
  • Standard versus LNA+PA radio modules

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    daulagariD
    @a-lurker said: So using your figure of 2.6 dB, which looks like an appropriate figure but could be higher; then this suggests, It's really a waste of time using the LNA+PA PCBs unless they are used at both ends. I largely agree, some refinements: If the sensor is mainly sending data and the gateway only acking, it is probably wise to have the PA radio at the sensor as I expect the data messages to be longer than the Acks 2.6 dB is not nothing, the range is extended by 34% (new_range = old_range * 1.34) assuming free space If the receiving side sees interference (ACI), a 20 dB louder received signal is for sure a better thing Any improvement people may witness ... is probably just because the LNA+PA PCB uses a far better antenna Yes, good antenna's can for sure help but be sure you know what you are doing. If you use a dipole antenna and point it to the other node it will not help you and likely even kill your connection. The antenna efficiency of the on-board antenna's can be pretty good, assuming things are matched correctly. If the external antenna is also matched correctly, it will have about the same efficiency. The same efficiency means that same total power is transmitted. The remaining difference then is that but the on-board antenna will have less directivity so the energy is spread out more evenly where for instance a dipole will focus most energy perpendicular to the dipole. A pretty good trick, that is how we can still receive signals for the Voyager 1 that is almost out of the solar system using a 20m dish antenna. But ... do point this antenna 1 degree wrong and you will not see the signal.
  • Using optocoupler as actuator in node

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    daulagariD
    @Zeph said: Or better still, optocouplers or an analog switch as described above... Yes, that's a better option as relays are quite power hungry and bulky.
  • Conecting two things to one Arduino pin (GND/VCC)

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    Z
    @naveen said: What is APM? Arduino Pro Micro. Sorry, sometimes I spell it out, but we use the term a lot here. Isn't the maximum one thing connected to either power or ground since there is only one pin for each? No, there's not one to one association of that sort. For i/o pins you have to take some care not to try to drive too much output load, or let different inputs fight with each other, but for power and ground that's not the issue. Well, you do have to keep the draw on the regulated power reasonable - often they are spec'd at about 150 ma (including the on board load for microcontroller, LED, powered outputs, etc), but that can vary. I was thinking about doing something like you do, but was hoping there would be something more elegant. Are you not worried that the bare wires will touch other pins, etc.? Yes, I only do that when I have a mounting situation where it's OK. And I might coat it with Liquid Electrical Tape in a few cases. AND - I too wouldn't mind learning a more elegant solution.
  • sensor Node - Ready to buy!

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    greglG
    or i might use one as a multi sensor - temp, light and movement..
  • Shift register node

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    ferpandoF
    @Yveaux You might be right, but then again how would I learn about shift registers if I don't use them? :-)
  • Node external power

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    wmylionelW
    You may want to disconnect everything and just leave the power supply and arduino, then measure the RAW pin and VCC pin, RAW should be anything above 5V, VCC should read 5V for the 5V version and 3.3V for the 3.3V version. Any other readings on VCC suggest that your regulator on the arduino is faulty.

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