Hardware

@leeoz anything between 3uF and 50uF will do. A smaller ceramic capacitor of 10 to 100 nF in parallel makes it even better.

This site has the best collection I have found: http://www.embeddedworks.net/wsim3951.html In the US the T-Mobile pre-paid seems to be the best deal. Similar on sparkfun https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13186

Here's one on AliExpress that can do 200 l/m: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/YF-DN50-2-inch-Large-diameter-turbine-flow-meter-water-flow-sensor-industrial-flow-meter-Available/32297810863.html?spm=2114.40010208.4.71.i72mzF. Not sure if I would trust it though.

@sky2000 ah oki. i agree about saml registers, that's a big job. I'm for lowpower sub ghz too mainly because i don't want wifi for everything. but i have few things working with esp. and this is really a nice mcu if you don't look at pin count&mux, and power consumption. But spiffs, ota, lot of libs etc works very well. Impressive when you think this is quite recent. but look at the LoPy, esp32 based. ble mesh or subghz will be possible. i can't wait to make my own ;) I think esp32 will be a game changer, sure more expensive than 8266. but I remember that 8266 didn't start at 2$ and today...you should look at the specs..https://espressif.com/en/products/hardware/esp32/overview

@linus72982 You will probably get slightly better range with one of the antennas. The original antennas that come with the modules are probably 1/2 wave antennas whereas the ones on the router could possibly be 5/8 or maybe even full wave which might give you a little gain. The receiving end of the module might not see much with the added length, but where you would get the boost is when it is transmitting. I am not sure that you would want to hook up both antennas as that may hurt your SWR on the transmitting end which would hinder performance rather than help.

@niek Try with a basic blink sketch and see what happens. if this keeps working add some serial output and see what happens.

@LastSamurai said: @AWI Does this one work with mysensors? I mean the price is much better... Great, thanks! I will get some too then

isn`t AQH3223 non-zero cross ?

@scalz said: can't help you for the moment. no need of challenge but nice try, i don't see why and for what??? Yeah, I see all too clearly what your saying. I'm outta here.

@mh_alex great to hear, thanks for reporting back!

@flopp said: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/666/debug-faq-and-how-ask-for-help Sorry. I don't understand the answer. I'm looking for some information that I can't find on the web or Nordic's webpage and maybe someone in this form with enough experience already know the answer. I'm not looking for help or troubleshooting instructions. I only would like to know the difference between the two chips. It is not clear for me from what I found on Nordics... Thanks four your understanding. Regards, Alfredo.

@Jason-Brunk I would recommend going for something newer like this: https://github.com/hallard/WeMos-RFM69 there is a lora version if you want to be too innovative: (currently not working with MySensors) https://github.com/hallard/WeMos-Lora The GWs above are very small - you can choose a custom enclosure easily. PS My recommendation would be RFM69 rather than NRF24

@drock1985 I know, RFM95 is even more expensive!

@Shivanand-Chanderbally I recently finished a node using the acs712 and found it to be very sensitive to nearby magnetic fields. It is best to have it as far away from these as you can.

@the-cosmic-gate There are so many manufacturers! Generally, as a rule of thumb the cheaper you pay for the screen the more difficult it is to get it working. Besides, anything to do with Arduino does require some DIY skills :-) Above I recommended Itead Studio screen, but it does cost more though works out of the box.

Any update on this one? Chinese new year is over now...