Hardware

@Moshe-Livne Sweet. thanks.

@Moshe-Livne said: In what way is it better? The datasheet states that to wake an ATMega from sleep from a PIN0/1 interrupt it should be configured as LEVEL interrupt, not CHANGE (second parameter to gw.sleep() ) It is likely to work when configured for CHANGE, but under certain conditions the interrupt may not be detected correctly by the ATMega.

Please send an email to info@mysensors.org with your ideas and questions..

@Ivan-Z Thanks. I have seen this in another thread. Decided against it for several reasons. This sensor should be asleep 99.9999% of the time. According to the legends this battery should power my sensor for years.

Thanks. I tried it now and it is working without any problems.

I think the trick here is that they just announced a $40 4.3" monitor and you’ll have to spend additional cash for the VGA or HDMI adapters. http://ardevon.com/2015/07/chip-the-worlds-first-9-computer/

@tbowmo nope, still no go. strangely, when i disconnect the arduino from the computer (so it is not powered), it creates a short after a few seconds and the bell starts ringing continuously.

@Moshe-Livne said: @Sparkman would have been nice if they could charge from motion, wouldn't it? :laughing: That would be great:smirk:

@AWI Yes i am. but there is mistake in the picture the R3 is connected between Pin 3 and VCC, not ground (pull up resistor). Then that leaves me hanging a bit because that is way more than I will be comfortable with in terms off battery changes. Any suggestion what to do?

My unmodified iBoard is working for months now as a gateway without problems. Initially I had some problems with hanging connections. But these problems disappeared after replacing my 1$ power supply with a 3$ one. The iBoard needs a decent power supply.

@Moshe-Livne there already is a 4u7 capacitor for the radio, on the sensebender. in theory, it could be used with cr2032 battery, but I doubt that it would last long..

@AWI totally understandable! I am a bit relived to hear that actually. I own a reasonable (I think) multimeter - not the cheapest from aliexpress... it is reasonably ok but everyone is so hushhush about the accuracy. I even ended up asking some multimeters companies what is the *&%&% accuracy and stop giving me all sorts of equations to solve!!! It reminds me of my other hobby, woodworking. You can do almost anything to a really good degree of finish with couple of hundreds $ of equipment BUT (and its a big capital BUT): You need to know what you are doing You need to carefully select this equipment and usually you gain the insight only after spending couple of K$ on useless hyped things. You need to have the confidence required it does take more time and can end up less accurate. Thanks for this... now I can use my multimeter with more confidence

On of the sensor is the distance sensor that looks like Wall-e. I havent started to test with battery yet but what i read it doesnt sound like you can power a simple sensor for so long with batteries? //Mathias

Just to re-iterate my original question - does any of the forum heroes knows if the same nrf chip can be used for rfid detection of commercial active tags and for mysensors?

Yes, I'm aware of the issues, the Humidity sensor version is mounted inside a well ventilated irrigation box... One board for many sensor devices in my project... Some inside a sealed box, others in the open air... Thanks

I've had great luck with capacitive sensing and water levels.. In my case I was using the Teensy 3 which has built-in support for cap sensing that seems more reliable than when using the arduino cap sense library. For the sensor, I got a sheet of copper foil with non-conductive adhesive on one side (digikey sells this). Using scissors I cut a 1" wide strip several inches long, with a couple small sections where I removed a piece 3/4 as wide as the strip (sorry.. hard to describe) The end result is sort of "F" shaped (where the horizontal bars are thick and the spaces between are thin). For shielding against outside interference, I put another rectagular piece over the whole thing, attached to a ground lead. Stick the whole thing to your oil tank, and you should see large changes in the cap sense value as soon as the liquid level crosses a gap. here's a web page with something similar http://soulysolar.mudventions.com/?p=681 hope this helps David

Ok, as it seems I did not look good enough. There is an diode (smd M7) between the input jack and the vin pin. This diode is rated 1A. So this will be the maximum current available to the whole arduino + shield. I will put a jack on my shield and feed the arduino from the shield and not vice versa.

today i burned a second regulator on a 5V pro mini. I use a car 5V adapter now, but its quite large :P. Any1 experience with good 5V regulators that can handle 12V?

@doblanch said: if (state != laststate) { delay(30); if (state != laststate) { delay(30); if (state != laststate) why do you have these blocking delay()s? I would focus on non-blocking code for such a device... Are you using an interrupt? I think you need to post your entire sketch to get good comments