Skip to content
  • MySensors
  • OpenHardware.io
  • Categories
  • Recent
  • Tags
  • Popular
Skins
  • Light
  • Brite
  • Cerulean
  • Cosmo
  • Flatly
  • Journal
  • Litera
  • Lumen
  • Lux
  • Materia
  • Minty
  • Morph
  • Pulse
  • Sandstone
  • Simplex
  • Sketchy
  • Spacelab
  • United
  • Yeti
  • Zephyr
  • Dark
  • Cyborg
  • Darkly
  • Quartz
  • Slate
  • Solar
  • Superhero
  • Vapor

  • Default (No Skin)
  • No Skin
Collapse
Brand Logo
  1. Home
  2. OpenHardware.io
  3. 💬 MyMasterSensor

💬 MyMasterSensor

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved OpenHardware.io
doortemperaturepirhumidityswitchbuttons
16 Posts 5 Posters 4.2k Views 4 Watching
  • Oldest to Newest
  • Newest to Oldest
  • Most Votes
Reply
  • Reply as topic
Log in to reply
This topic has been deleted. Only users with topic management privileges can see it.
  • S Soloam

    @nca78 thank you, but will sensors like LM393 Light Sensor and DHT22 Module work with no problems bellow 3V? They are both rated between 3.3V and 5V.

    Thank you

    S Offline
    S Offline
    sundberg84
    Hardware Contributor
    wrote on last edited by
    #7

    @soloam said in 💬 MyMasterSensor:

    LM393

    No not the light Sensor/DHT22 Module without some changes in them.

    Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
    RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

    S 1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • S sundberg84

      @soloam said in 💬 MyMasterSensor:

      LM393

      No not the light Sensor/DHT22 Module without some changes in them.

      S Offline
      S Offline
      Soloam
      Hardware Contributor
      wrote on last edited by
      #8

      @sundberg84 thank you

      So basically to keep this modules, the only thing that I would have powered by the 3V is the radio and the atmega. I planned building the PCB without using the modules, but I have a lot of them laying around and I think that it would make the PCB more useful/easy to others that plan to use it.

      S 1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • S Soloam

        @sundberg84 thank you

        So basically to keep this modules, the only thing that I would have powered by the 3V is the radio and the atmega. I planned building the PCB without using the modules, but I have a lot of them laying around and I think that it would make the PCB more useful/easy to others that plan to use it.

        S Offline
        S Offline
        sundberg84
        Hardware Contributor
        wrote on last edited by sundberg84
        #9

        @soloam - The radio can go down to 1.9V (not clones) and the Atmega depends on if you want to change the fuse settings. Normal BOD is set a 2.8v but with internal oscillator you can go lower.

        Its Easy to use modules only, but as you understand there are limitation. Its possble to power a 3.3v module from a Atmega328 pin if you power it @ 3.3v (D3 for example) if they do not need more than 40mA (MAX!). Then you can turn on and off the pin and save power. I have even made a testnode with a dc-dc step up which i sourced from D3 and could turn on/off to get 3.3v but its not pretty.

        Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
        RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

        S 1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • S sundberg84

          @soloam - The radio can go down to 1.9V (not clones) and the Atmega depends on if you want to change the fuse settings. Normal BOD is set a 2.8v but with internal oscillator you can go lower.

          Its Easy to use modules only, but as you understand there are limitation. Its possble to power a 3.3v module from a Atmega328 pin if you power it @ 3.3v (D3 for example) if they do not need more than 40mA (MAX!). Then you can turn on and off the pin and save power. I have even made a testnode with a dc-dc step up which i sourced from D3 and could turn on/off to get 3.3v but its not pretty.

          S Offline
          S Offline
          Soloam
          Hardware Contributor
          wrote on last edited by
          #10

          @sundberg84 the idea is to sleep the node whenever possible, and when it wakes up (for example from triggering the PIR) it uses the wakeup to notify all the other nodes and go back to sleep again.

          What you are telling is to use 2 Digital pins to one module? One to power it and other for the data? Is that it? I also thought about doing something like that, I would need to feed the atmega with 3AA (4.5v).

          S 1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • S Soloam

            @sundberg84 the idea is to sleep the node whenever possible, and when it wakes up (for example from triggering the PIR) it uses the wakeup to notify all the other nodes and go back to sleep again.

            What you are telling is to use 2 Digital pins to one module? One to power it and other for the data? Is that it? I also thought about doing something like that, I would need to feed the atmega with 3AA (4.5v).

            S Offline
            S Offline
            sundberg84
            Hardware Contributor
            wrote on last edited by sundberg84
            #11

            @soloam - whatever you feed into the Atmega will feed the modules then so you need a stable 3.3v or a regulator/step-up. for the modules.

            Its not an easy task this. In my design I have "solved" this by using a DC-DC step up for everything except the Radio. Then I know everything uses 3.3v atleast. I then remove led and voltage regulator and during sleep Im around 50uA which is good enough for me.

            The problem is the booster can introduce noice into the node and disturb the sensitive radio.

            Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
            MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
            MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
            RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • S Soloam

              @nca78 thank you, but will sensors like LM393 Light Sensor and DHT22 Module work with no problems bellow 3V? They are both rated between 3.3V and 5V.

              Thank you

              N Offline
              N Offline
              Nca78
              Hardware Contributor
              wrote on last edited by
              #12

              @soloam said in 💬 MyMasterSensor:

              @nca78 thank you, but will sensors like LM393 Light Sensor and DHT22 Module work with no problems bellow 3V? They are both rated between 3.3V and 5V.

              Thank you

              The question is why do you want to use those ? :)
              A small breakout board with si7021 is better than DHT22 in every way.
              And for light there are also a few i2c sensors that are way better.

              S 1 Reply Last reply
              1
              • N Nca78

                @soloam said in 💬 MyMasterSensor:

                @nca78 thank you, but will sensors like LM393 Light Sensor and DHT22 Module work with no problems bellow 3V? They are both rated between 3.3V and 5V.

                Thank you

                The question is why do you want to use those ? :)
                A small breakout board with si7021 is better than DHT22 in every way.
                And for light there are also a few i2c sensors that are way better.

                S Offline
                S Offline
                sundberg84
                Hardware Contributor
                wrote on last edited by
                #13

                @nca78 - he had alof the them laying around... and its easy to use.

                Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • S Offline
                  S Offline
                  Soloam
                  Hardware Contributor
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #14

                  Thank you @Nca78 @sundberg84 I think that I will redo my board to use a Temperature Sensor SI7021 and for light a foto resistance like the GM5539 (any opinion or alternatives?).

                  Better do it right, and I can use the sensors that I have around in tests or something.

                  One question, I'll use this inside a case, ok I can do holes, but will not this change the temperature and humidity readings?

                  N 1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • S Soloam

                    Thank you @Nca78 @sundberg84 I think that I will redo my board to use a Temperature Sensor SI7021 and for light a foto resistance like the GM5539 (any opinion or alternatives?).

                    Better do it right, and I can use the sensors that I have around in tests or something.

                    One question, I'll use this inside a case, ok I can do holes, but will not this change the temperature and humidity readings?

                    N Offline
                    N Offline
                    Nca78
                    Hardware Contributor
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #15

                    @soloam no it should not affect the readings too much if you make holes near the sensor and you have a bit of space in front of it so that the air can flow.

                    For light sensor check BH1750 or MAX44009

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • B Offline
                      B Offline
                      bladeback
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #16

                      Please send me kicad files, the ones that can be downloaded, can't be opened in kicad 5, or upgrade here. Thank you

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0

                      Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.

                      Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.

                      With your input, this post could be even better 💗

                      Register Login
                      Reply
                      • Reply as topic
                      Log in to reply
                      • Oldest to Newest
                      • Newest to Oldest
                      • Most Votes


                      11

                      Online

                      12.0k

                      Users

                      11.2k

                      Topics

                      113.4k

                      Posts


                      Copyright 2025 TBD   |   Forum Guidelines   |   Privacy Policy   |   Terms of Service
                      • Login

                      • Don't have an account? Register

                      • Login or register to search.
                      • First post
                        Last post
                      0
                      • MySensors
                      • OpenHardware.io
                      • Categories
                      • Recent
                      • Tags
                      • Popular