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  • 💬 MyMasterSensor

    OpenHardware.io door temperature pir humidity switch buttons
    16
    0 Votes
    16 Posts
    3k Views
    B
    Please send me kicad files, the ones that can be downloaded, can't be opened in kicad 5, or upgrade here. Thank you
  • Garage door status sensors ideas

    General Discussion door garage sensor
    27
    0 Votes
    27 Posts
    5k Views
    I
    That's right @gohan , if you place the "door closed"reed near the floor then only first interrupt should matter, first interrupt should tell you the door is closed. Same for a second reed placed high - the "door open" reed, that would tell you the door is open when interrupted the first time. @McQueen, could be close to you needs ...
  • 1 Votes
    24 Posts
    6k Views
    skywatchS
    What ever happened to this?
  • 0 Votes
    41 Posts
    11k Views
    Nca78N
    Hello, I'm thinking about upgrading this board to include pinout for LIS3DH breakout board, like this one : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LIS3DH-Three-Converters-Motion-Accelerometer-Triaxial-Acceleration-Temperature-Sensor-Module-Development-Board-Replace-ADXL345/32840326778.html and ditch the ADXL shield as it's not a good solution, it has either the ADXL345 which uses too much power, or the ADXL362 which is ultra low power but lacks advanced functionality like tap/double tap detection. I would like to have feedback of users on this (do it sound useful ?), and also know if anyone uses the SMD footprints on the board, for leds and for reserve capacitors, as it could be a cleaner board without those footprints. I would make the following changes : put footprint for LIS3DH accelerometer along the "NModule connector" as it has too many pins to put elsewhere keep only one I2C footprint on the side, for "GY-49" MAX44009 light sensor breakout board: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GY-49-MAX44009-Ambient-Light-Sensor-Module-for-Arduino-with-4P-Pin-Header-Module/32828654450.html temperature/humidity would be via the existing "SMD" footprint, it's not through hole but very easy to solder as it's 2.54mm pad spacing remove SMD footprints for LED, add footprint for through hole reserve capacitor, keep SMD footprints for reserve capacitors only if I have space for them shield would be a bit extended to go over the 2 M2 holes in the "power" part of the NModule, so it could be fitted with spacers and nylon screws and have stable/reliable mechanical connection between NModule and Shield. Basically this would be the footprint of the shield : [image: 1527422033742-c8e52cd0-47fe-4a5e-b6a3-554e216603cc-image.png] So in the end it would make one shield to have Temperature/Humidity/Light/Acceleration or Temperature/Humidity/Light/Door.
  • 0 Votes
    89 Posts
    18k Views
    Nca78N
    @zmatokan said in 💬 NModule: @Nca78 Are you still working on this pcbs? i think it would be great to add a version that supports HiLink 220ac->5dc module on powerboard. No I'm not working on NModules anymore, I have a few old nodes using atmega/nrf24 but I switched to NRF5 for "basic" nodes now, and to ESP32 for more "advanced" stuff. NModule was designed for beginner and simple/riskless use, so I don't think adding high voltage option is a great idea, it's better to use an external power supply and connect the output to the powerboard.
  • 3 Votes
    6 Posts
    2k Views
    EfflonE
    @antonholmstedt a pro mini fits if you cut the corners, check out https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/6612/door-sensor-remix-of-some-mys-community-efforts
  • 0 Votes
    10 Posts
    4k Views
    TakeroT
    In deep Sleep the cunsumption is below 19µA, but i have to send with PA_MAX. On some Windows the open/close frequency is verry high, so the battery is to fast emty. The CR2032 is good, but i want more "lifetime"

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