It might be possible to power the Arduino off the output pin. Since they are dirt cheap I would just test it. But like the others I would suggest to use the interrupts of pin 2 and 3. For my battery powered 3.3v pro mini I use 3.3v pir sensors without the voltage regulator. The standard 5v pir needs at least 4.5v just to step it down internally to 3.3V. On these I had problems with voltage stability because I stepped it up to 5V. Also the battery lifetime was poor. With the 3.3v pir version this thing runs for months. With the solar panel on top maybe forever.

@nca78 I don't use ATAES132A. I put it in just in case I wanted to invest some more time using it. I now just use SimpleEncryption, it's secure enough for my purpose atm. (since the area I live in uses KAKU a lot, an insecure 433MHz lightswitch, I don't think anyone would be bothered to hack my temperature sensors. I found 163 433Mhz devices when I left domoticz logging for a couple of days.)

Please send me kicad files, the ones that can be downloaded, can't be opened in kicad 5, or upgrade here. Thank you

ESUN flex filament used.

if you find a way to make it work, pls share the project

@berkseo Good question. The code seemed good at the time I wrote it, but I can't say that it was extensively tested. I may circle back to it at a future date, and if so, I'll take a closer look. Even with more than 500 downloads of the code, no one has posted any feedback on how well (or not) it has run. Also, I not sure how compatible the posted code is with newer releases of the mysensors library.

@NeverDie Sorry for delay... This is example (improved version with 3d printed fixer)

@Nca78 FWIW, I used 1.55mm holes. There may be no perfect diameter since we don't even know for sure yet which lens will turn out best.

@zmatokan said in NModule: @Nca78 Are you still working on this pcbs? i think it would be great to add a version that supports HiLink 220ac->5dc module on powerboard. No I'm not working on NModules anymore, I have a few old nodes using atmega/nrf24 but I switched to NRF5 for "basic" nodes now, and to ESP32 for more "advanced" stuff. NModule was designed for beginner and simple/riskless use, so I don't think adding high voltage option is a great idea, it's better to use an external power supply and connect the output to the powerboard.

I liked domoticz (was very easy to set up and use). Together with dzVents scripting wasn't that difficult either. But I also had some problem with it lately, so I was actually thinking about switching to openhab (2).

"So as soon as i've checked this is working as before, i release gerbers, and ask for a mini pcba if people interested." Just in case it was not clear in the other thread, I am If the quote you get for PCBA is reasonable of course, else I'll shift to the power hungry versions with bigger batteries until I feel confident to solder 0603. Or to re-make the design with sized-up components The PIR sensor is pretty cheap, but I guess it's already too high for most breakout board sellers on aliexpress who want to keep the price ultra low. I'm just surprised companies like Adafruit or Sparkfun never did anything low power and just resell the 1$ SR501 at 10$ Only DFRobot claims to have a 15µA PIR which is already a great improvement but I can't get it shipped to Vietnam without shelling out 20$ for express mail Happy new year to you too !

@yveaux said in Ikea Molgan Hack: @magpern the instructions on openhardware.io state that the Molgan must be battery powered while programming: Well, then I can confirm that you don't have to power the Molgan from batteries just for programming. Burning the bootloader works fine with just power from the ISP port and programming it through FTDI works fine if power comes from the FTDI. What I found wierd is that the atmega328 had power, the radio had power, it wrote debug messages to the FTDI - when powered through the FTDI, it send radio messages etc, but it just did not receive messages. Messages where not received until I supplied power to the + / - pads (battery pads). I did read the instructions on openhardware.io, but I didn't follow then to the t.

@scalz Thanks for your answer. Assembling a sensor by my own is not really what I want (or am able to achieve). So buying assembled sensor is the only option for me. Thus probably commercially available sensors will fit better, since they can use the scaling factor of assembling a huge amount of sensors. My HA is driven by cost to performance ratio, where cost also include somewhat the amount of time to invest and performance also covers things like the ease of use, appearance etc. Interesting to hear though that those commercial sensors might be less premium regarding the part quality, battery life etc.

@bjornhallberg can you measure the voltage on your batteries it will be great to know what you're voltage are.