Advantage of this sensor is fast and easy installing by the non qualified personal. The sensor is designed for large agriculture facility with many greenhouses where is needed to be controlled temperature and humidity, the atmospheric pressure is for control the motor of air inlet and outlet. With help of the sensor installed outside the greenhouse provide information about positive/negative pressure inside the greenhouse. Finlay the software read accurate temp/humid value of the Si7021, and only atmospheric pressure of BMP180, the temperature sensor inside the BMP180 is used only by the sensor itself to provide accurate atmospheric pressure measurements. The sensor can be used also for home automation, and drone applications where is needed correction of the UAV barometric sensor compared to the ground barometric sensor, also humidity measurement can help the pilot to calculate more accurate flying time.

Sorry, 1 more question. At what timeframe do you expect diy packages to be for sale? I have checked with steel manufactures before for other projects, but having a small batch of steel tubes means that they will be enormously expensive and the same goes for the PCB's. The milling I can do easily at a maker space (fablab013). I am planning on a rather long, 1 storey hive, so I plan to cut the metal tubes in half and mount an extension in between.

Even with the 0.1uF capacitor, I had wrong values. So, I've gone with the voltage divider method, and it seems more reliable, at least for my case. 4.7V max to VCC, R1 1M, R2 330k, another 0.1uF capacitor in parallel with R2. I don't need a very good accuracy, just a trend in order to know when to change my batteries. Thanks for your help.

@berkseo Thank you for your answer Good continuation on your nice project.

Please send me kicad files, the ones that can be downloaded, can't be opened in kicad 5, or upgrade here. Thank you

@Nelson-Nico my reply was not properly formatted, I fixed it. Read again, then get a bit deeper with the links given by @scalz

Hello Tilman, this is really a very nice design. I have ordered a pack of PCBs from elecrow, based on your gerber files, and have a few questions: in your BOM you have listed 5 smd-capacitors and 7 smd resistors, but on the PCB i have solderpads for 6 capacitors and 8 resistors. Can you just explain? is there a uniflächentaster-model for 2 ways? i think i have to flash the bootloader first, do you have a tutorial for this, and a sample-sketch for the board? Thank you very much

@scalz May I request you to share your code for it please. Thanks

@bisschopsr said in BlackCircle Sensor - High "WAF" Temp/Hum. sensor: Hi All, Like the design thinking of this, although an older topic I did manage to get me one of these dishes. After taking it apart, I have one question that came to mind. Is the ventilation in the dish enough for the humity sensor? Is there any experience with that after running this sensor for a while? Thx Ralph Hello, yes I think it's enough, in fact there's much more ventilation than in many commercial sensors which only have a small hole. But it's a good test to make, I'll try to compare to a sensor out of it's enclosure to see if there's significant difference or delay.

@zmatokan said in NModule: @Nca78 Are you still working on this pcbs? i think it would be great to add a version that supports HiLink 220ac->5dc module on powerboard. No I'm not working on NModules anymore, I have a few old nodes using atmega/nrf24 but I switched to NRF5 for "basic" nodes now, and to ESP32 for more "advanced" stuff. NModule was designed for beginner and simple/riskless use, so I don't think adding high voltage option is a great idea, it's better to use an external power supply and connect the output to the powerboard.

BTW, I like how you both made a case for it. Very nice!

Hope will test the new version of this universal board soon. Now it has additional inexpensive accelerometer, magnetic sensor, led, reset button, multifootprint for lora/hw/cw radio without adapter and improoved 4layers design

@tbowmo ha ha ha - at least you are still married

@gohan said in Arduino Pro Mini Shield for RFM69(H)W: If I remeber right that pin is used as input so the RFM69 is not receiving any 5v signal. In addition there are people claming they have the RFM69 module working on 5v on data pins and 3.3v on vcc, but I hardly suggest to do it. thank you just what i thought . about direct 5v on data...well... i seen a big red sign saying n :DONT do it! lol Level converters are so cheap...that i ordered 5 or 10 thoguether with rfm69 board. sorry about hijack this topic, i though i was on general discussion

@Nca78 Well, for small potted plants, you might have to re-pot the plant. However, the nice benefit that would arise is: no visible sensors, which carries with it very high WAF.

@martinhjelmare Wow thank you so much. I've cleared the eeprom and now it gets node id 1. After removing the persistence file the sensor now shows on the web interface.

@scalz Thanks for your answer. Assembling a sensor by my own is not really what I want (or am able to achieve). So buying assembled sensor is the only option for me. Thus probably commercially available sensors will fit better, since they can use the scaling factor of assembling a huge amount of sensors. My HA is driven by cost to performance ratio, where cost also include somewhat the amount of time to invest and performance also covers things like the ease of use, appearance etc. Interesting to hear though that those commercial sensors might be less premium regarding the part quality, battery life etc.

I hate to disappoint you @micah but @Mike-Musskopf has got a point: MQ* sensors are power hungry. You may want to connect everything up to 240V via a small PSU. There is a big thread on mysensors about air quality detection. DHT is not the best sensor for a battery application. Please check BME280 (pressure, temp and hum) or Si7021 (temp and hum) - these would be my favourite sensors for low power consumption. Small tip - your Arduino Pros must be 3.3V and not 5V for the battery usage.

this kind of optic fiber is probably only plastic so for a full DIY , you can use also fishing wire with a big power led or an old chistmass tree optic fiber lighted.....

@Samuel235 I am looking at a CO sensor too, do you have any updates on the ones you are using? What is the exact model?

Hi, possible to share pcb files? THX MiKa

This should work with Domoticz, it's what I intend to use with it. I've received the boards from China and I'm currently working on a version 2 of this board. There are some errors in the design of version 1 that I need to get out. New version will be up shortly.

Nice! Will be interesting to hear about how long the CR2032 lasts.

@fets So far, I have only built the 5x5 board (but the others should be schematically identical). The only issue I have found so far is that I cannot get the ISP port to work. But I have checked and I have an identical setup on the 1.0 board and that worked, so I suspect the programmer is too weak to drive the net on this one. So it is not a board-issue per se, and might only be an issue on the 5x5 board as routing is the most complex on that one due to the size.

@martim Unfortunately we do not have any other manufacturing partners, so all sensebender boards are produced by itead. How did you confirm that the board where broken? Have you tried starting the self test in the standard firmware that the micro is delivered with? The factory firmware is available at https://github.com/mysensors/SensebenderMicro/blob/master/Arduino/SensebenderMicro/SensebenderMicro.ino

I think the comment in the routine void measureBattery() { // R1 = 1MOhm, R2 = 220 kOhm Should be void measureBattery() { // R3 = 1MOhm, R2 = 220 kOhm (R3) Is it possible to add (comment out) some lines how to calculate the battery percentage and send this via gw.sendBatteryLevel (batteryPcnt) Great sketch!

@vladimir No, I use a WIZ5100 module. Search the forum. Many users (try) :-)) to use ENC28J60.

@destos Wow!

I built a trip wire for the post box that I'm connecting. It's however based on a mercury tilt sensor so I'm really not sure whether I think it's a great idea putting it to use (at least not with a sturdy case...). However, I can share my code: #define DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR 2 // The digital input you attached your motion sensor. (Only 2 and 3 generates interrupt!) #define INTERRUPT DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR-2 // Usually the interrupt = pin -2 (on uno/nano anyway) MyMessage msgTripped(CHILD_ID_TRIPPED, V_TRIPPED); void setup() { gw.sendSketchInfo("Postal", "1.0"); gw.present(CHILD_ID_TRIPPED, S_MOTION); pinMode(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR, INPUT); // sets the motion sensor digital pin as input } void loop() { boolean tripped = digitalRead(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR) == LOW; if(tripped) { gw.send(msgTripped.set("1")); // Send tripped value to gw } gw.sleep(INTERRUPT,FALLING, SLEEP_TIME); }

@samppa yes, but you saw the little point functions your arduino is very capable of, yes? if you post your attempt at a sketch to control your fan (or even pseudo code) we can certainly help you code it up for Vera.

Does this help: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/748/manual-assigning-node-id-s-for-network-with-repeaters I agree with you that the serial messages are not perfectly documented, but realise that this site has been made (as far as I know) by a bunch of people that share their 'love' for home automation..... boozz

Well I changed the connection type for the sensors due to the above issue. Tested and again after 2.5 days, it locked out on a sensor com error. So after some thought, I realized, (not sure why I didn't before) the system is not going to be 100% bullet proof, so instead of moving to a hard fault, I recoded the error handling section of the sketch to attempt to handle the occasional hiccups in reading the sensors. Pushed new sketch to Github and am testing now. It will interesting to see just how many times the readings fail. I shall see.....

I am running straight off the webpage. Actually it doesnt apear I can get any of the sketches to run using either the browser plg in or the native IDE.... wishing I hadnt updated since this last set of changes.

@ryanbrown204 temperature: https://www.mysensors.org/build/temp Motion: https://www.mysensors.org/build/motion See the first post in this thread for the modifications Konrad did.

@tannewt said: Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 3.3V/8MHz $9.95 ~3.5$ on ebay RHT03 Temp/Humidity $8.96 ~4.3$ on ebay

@hek The capacitor addition seems to be helping. So far 9 hours and all the values are updating as they should YAY! I'll continue to monitor but i'm hopeful that this is the solution.