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Newbie starting his HA project

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved My Project
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  • mfalkviddM Offline
    mfalkviddM Offline
    mfalkvidd
    Mod
    wrote on last edited by mfalkvidd
    #3

    The ftdi pins are listed on the image named "Available pins" on your first link.
    Connect Vcc to Vcc, GND to GND, RxD to TxD and TxD to RxD.

    1 Reply Last reply
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    • rsachocR Offline
      rsachocR Offline
      rsachoc
      wrote on last edited by rsachoc
      #4

      Thanks! Apologies, I don't think I was clear enough in my question, so I thought I'd make it easier and post some pictures. What I'm trying to make sure I get right is to solder the "pin thingie" onto the FTDI adapter correctly. It came like this:

      http://i.imgur.com/U9eo7Mc.jpg

      And my sensebender looks like this (hopefully I got that right).

      http://i.imgur.com/LJKzuaP.jpg

      What I understand I need to do is to solder the "pin thingie" onto the FTDI adapter and then connect this to the sensebender. So which pins on that do I need to solder to, the ones on the outer edge of the circuit board? Also, does it matter which way I solder i.e. which side the "pin thingie" is on the FTDI adapter?

      1 Reply Last reply
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      • rsachocR Offline
        rsachocR Offline
        rsachoc
        wrote on last edited by rsachoc
        #5

        OK! Update. All the bits and pieces arrived, so I've built the gateway (MQTT client, as I already had an Openhab Pi 2 running MQTT) - this appears to work fine, I can see it connects to the MQTT gateway via the serial monitor.

        So the next step is getting the SenseBender Micro (with soldered NRF2401 gateway) to connect to the gateway. I initially thought it would "just work" based on what I read, but I understand that this is with either the "standard" ethernet or wireless gateway, as these assign client ID's automatically. So I need to modify the sketch with a fixed client ID and upload it.

        Here's where I'm struggling - I bought an FTDI adaptor, which I thought was 5v and 3.3v, but from what I can see it's 5v. I understand that I therefore need to resolder a little resistor (or something) on the board, but this is so tiny it's beyond my current capability. What other options do I have for getting a new sketch onto the Sensebender?

        HenryWhiteH 1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • rsachocR rsachoc

          OK! Update. All the bits and pieces arrived, so I've built the gateway (MQTT client, as I already had an Openhab Pi 2 running MQTT) - this appears to work fine, I can see it connects to the MQTT gateway via the serial monitor.

          So the next step is getting the SenseBender Micro (with soldered NRF2401 gateway) to connect to the gateway. I initially thought it would "just work" based on what I read, but I understand that this is with either the "standard" ethernet or wireless gateway, as these assign client ID's automatically. So I need to modify the sketch with a fixed client ID and upload it.

          Here's where I'm struggling - I bought an FTDI adaptor, which I thought was 5v and 3.3v, but from what I can see it's 5v. I understand that I therefore need to resolder a little resistor (or something) on the board, but this is so tiny it's beyond my current capability. What other options do I have for getting a new sketch onto the Sensebender?

          HenryWhiteH Offline
          HenryWhiteH Offline
          HenryWhite
          wrote on last edited by HenryWhite
          #6

          @rsachoc said:

          Here's where I'm struggling - I bought an FTDI adaptor, which I thought was 5v and 3.3v, but from what I can see it's 5v.

          picture of the adaptor?
          some adapters have a jumper or solder bridge to switch between 5V and 3.3V

          rsachocR 1 Reply Last reply
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          • HenryWhiteH HenryWhite

            @rsachoc said:

            Here's where I'm struggling - I bought an FTDI adaptor, which I thought was 5v and 3.3v, but from what I can see it's 5v.

            picture of the adaptor?
            some adapters have a jumper or solder bridge to switch between 5V and 3.3V

            rsachocR Offline
            rsachocR Offline
            rsachoc
            wrote on last edited by rsachoc
            #7

            @HenryWhite definitely a solder bridge, see the picture above (http://i.imgur.com/U9eo7Mc.jpg
            ), that's why I'm not confident I will be able to sucessfully desolder and solder it.

            HenryWhiteH 1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • rsachocR rsachoc

              @HenryWhite definitely a solder bridge, see the picture above (http://i.imgur.com/U9eo7Mc.jpg
              ), that's why I'm not confident I will be able to sucessfully desolder and solder it.

              HenryWhiteH Offline
              HenryWhiteH Offline
              HenryWhite
              wrote on last edited by HenryWhite
              #8

              @rsachoc Well, you could

              • buy an FTDI adapter with jumper

              • buy a thinner soldering tip if yours is to big (make sure the tips fit to your soldering iron)

              • try to desolder the bridge and solder it to the right place

              • break the bridge with pliers and just solder the lower two solder points together. this would be possible even with a thicker soldering iron.

              If you want to switch continously between 5v and 3.3v, you should consider buying another ftdi adapter with jumper pins (or try to solder 3 pinheaders to the three solder pads)

              rsachocR 1 Reply Last reply
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              • HenryWhiteH HenryWhite

                @rsachoc Well, you could

                • buy an FTDI adapter with jumper

                • buy a thinner soldering tip if yours is to big (make sure the tips fit to your soldering iron)

                • try to desolder the bridge and solder it to the right place

                • break the bridge with pliers and just solder the lower two solder points together. this would be possible even with a thicker soldering iron.

                If you want to switch continously between 5v and 3.3v, you should consider buying another ftdi adapter with jumper pins (or try to solder 3 pinheaders to the three solder pads)

                rsachocR Offline
                rsachocR Offline
                rsachoc
                wrote on last edited by
                #9

                @HenryWhite thanks! I suspect since I've got nothing to lose the best option is to try and desolder/break the current bridge and try and resolder it. Let me have a go and see what happens.

                1 Reply Last reply
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                • rsachocR Offline
                  rsachocR Offline
                  rsachoc
                  wrote on last edited by rsachoc
                  #10

                  OK so I managed to desolder the bridge and put a dab of solder between the other 2 pins, so I think I have a 3.3v FTDI adaptor. However, I was reading here and I think, because I have the NRF2401 connected to my sensebender, that I might have fried it? Thinking 5v would have broken it?

                  Also, I'm still confused as to how I connect the FTDI adaptor to the sensebender. mfalkvidd mentioned that I need to go "Vcc to Vcc, GND to GND, RxD to TxD and TxD to RxD", howeverthe sensbender pins don't seem to line up this way?

                  edit just to be clear, the sensebender goes GND GND VCC RXD TXD DTR while the FTDI goes GND DTR RXI TXO PWR CTS GND, so I'm confused how the pins line up, if that makes any sense?

                  mfalkviddM HenryWhiteH 2 Replies Last reply
                  0
                  • rsachocR rsachoc

                    OK so I managed to desolder the bridge and put a dab of solder between the other 2 pins, so I think I have a 3.3v FTDI adaptor. However, I was reading here and I think, because I have the NRF2401 connected to my sensebender, that I might have fried it? Thinking 5v would have broken it?

                    Also, I'm still confused as to how I connect the FTDI adaptor to the sensebender. mfalkvidd mentioned that I need to go "Vcc to Vcc, GND to GND, RxD to TxD and TxD to RxD", howeverthe sensbender pins don't seem to line up this way?

                    edit just to be clear, the sensebender goes GND GND VCC RXD TXD DTR while the FTDI goes GND DTR RXI TXO PWR CTS GND, so I'm confused how the pins line up, if that makes any sense?

                    mfalkviddM Offline
                    mfalkviddM Offline
                    mfalkvidd
                    Mod
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #11

                    sensebender:
                    GND
                    GND
                    VCC
                    RXD
                    TXD
                    DTR

                    FTDI:
                    GND
                    DTR
                    RXI
                    TXO
                    PWR
                    CTS
                    GND

                    Turn FTDI upside-down:
                    GND
                    CTS
                    PWR
                    TXO
                    RXI
                    DTR
                    GND

                    now line them up:

                    sensebender. FTDI
                    GND GND
                    GND CTS
                    VCC PWR
                    RXD TXO
                    TXD RXI
                    DTR DTR

                    1 Reply Last reply
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                    • rsachocR rsachoc

                      OK so I managed to desolder the bridge and put a dab of solder between the other 2 pins, so I think I have a 3.3v FTDI adaptor. However, I was reading here and I think, because I have the NRF2401 connected to my sensebender, that I might have fried it? Thinking 5v would have broken it?

                      Also, I'm still confused as to how I connect the FTDI adaptor to the sensebender. mfalkvidd mentioned that I need to go "Vcc to Vcc, GND to GND, RxD to TxD and TxD to RxD", howeverthe sensbender pins don't seem to line up this way?

                      edit just to be clear, the sensebender goes GND GND VCC RXD TXD DTR while the FTDI goes GND DTR RXI TXO PWR CTS GND, so I'm confused how the pins line up, if that makes any sense?

                      HenryWhiteH Offline
                      HenryWhiteH Offline
                      HenryWhite
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #12

                      @rsachoc said:

                      I think, because I have the NRF2401 connected to my sensebender, that I might have fried it? Thinking 5v would have broken it?

                      Maybe! But maybe not. :smile: I'm using a FTDI adapter with jumper for my 3.3v/5v pro mini's, and sometimes I forgot to move the jumper to 3V when connecting my 3V pro mini's. Nevertheless, the nrf24l01 "survived" this stupidness every time.

                      Also, I'm still confused as to how I connect the FTDI adaptor to the sensebender. mfalkvidd mentioned that I need to go "Vcc to Vcc, GND to GND, RxD to TxD and TxD to RxD", howeverthe sensbender pins don't seem to line up this way?

                      edit just to be clear, the sensebender goes GND GND VCC RXD TXD DTR while the FTDI goes GND DTR RXI TXO PWR CTS GND, so I'm confused how the pins line up, if that makes any sense?

                      here's how you connect the sensebender to your ftdi:

                      --Your_FTDI:Sensebender--
                      GND:GND
                      CTS:GND
                      PWR:VCC
                      TXO:RXD
                      RXI:TXD
                      DTR:DTR

                      korttomaK 1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • rsachocR Offline
                        rsachocR Offline
                        rsachoc
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #13

                        Thank you both, I'll get soldering tomorrow - couple more (extremely rookie) questions:

                        1. Do I need to have the Sensebender connected to battery and the FTDI connected to USB at the time I'm uploading the sketch?
                        2. When I upload the sketch, do I need to select Board: Sensebender Micro and Programmer: USBAsp?
                        3. Do I need to "Upload" or "Upload via Programmer"?
                        rsachocR 1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • rsachocR rsachoc

                          Thank you both, I'll get soldering tomorrow - couple more (extremely rookie) questions:

                          1. Do I need to have the Sensebender connected to battery and the FTDI connected to USB at the time I'm uploading the sketch?
                          2. When I upload the sketch, do I need to select Board: Sensebender Micro and Programmer: USBAsp?
                          3. Do I need to "Upload" or "Upload via Programmer"?
                          rsachocR Offline
                          rsachocR Offline
                          rsachoc
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #14

                          @rsachoc OK answering my own question :) after a bit of experimentation and research

                          Do I need to have the Sensebender connected to battery and the FTDI connected to USB at the time I'm uploading the sketch? No
                          When I upload the sketch, do I need to select Board: Sensebender Micro and Programmer: USBAsp? Yes
                          Do I need to "Upload" or "Upload via Programmer"? Upload worked for me

                          rsachocR 1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • rsachocR rsachoc

                            @rsachoc OK answering my own question :) after a bit of experimentation and research

                            Do I need to have the Sensebender connected to battery and the FTDI connected to USB at the time I'm uploading the sketch? No
                            When I upload the sketch, do I need to select Board: Sensebender Micro and Programmer: USBAsp? Yes
                            Do I need to "Upload" or "Upload via Programmer"? Upload worked for me

                            rsachocR Offline
                            rsachocR Offline
                            rsachoc
                            wrote on last edited by rsachoc
                            #15

                            An answer, but a new question:

                            I have setup a MQTT gateway (with NRF2401, Arduno nano clone, W5100 ethernet) - using the W5100 MQTT client sketch (from here), changing the necessary. I can see that this successfully boots and connects to my MQTT server (on a Pi 2 with Openhab).

                            0;255;3;0;9;Starting gateway (RNNGA-, 2.0.0-beta)
                            0;255;3;0;9;Radio init successful.
                            0;255;3;0;9;Init complete, id=0, parent=0, distance=0
                            0;255;3;0;9;Attempting MQTT connection...
                            0;255;3;0;9;MQTT connected
                            

                            I've also successfully flashed the Sensebender .ino (from here), only changing the "//#deine MY_NODE_ID 3" to uncomment (and also correcting the spelling error :) )

                            Interestingly (no idea why) before I had loaded the new sketch on the Sensebender, when powering it on via battery I got the LED coming on, now with the new sketch...nothing. I also can't see it connecting to the gateway (should I see something in the serial monitor on the gateway)?

                            Or could I have a fried radio?

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • HenryWhiteH HenryWhite

                              @rsachoc said:

                              I think, because I have the NRF2401 connected to my sensebender, that I might have fried it? Thinking 5v would have broken it?

                              Maybe! But maybe not. :smile: I'm using a FTDI adapter with jumper for my 3.3v/5v pro mini's, and sometimes I forgot to move the jumper to 3V when connecting my 3V pro mini's. Nevertheless, the nrf24l01 "survived" this stupidness every time.

                              Also, I'm still confused as to how I connect the FTDI adaptor to the sensebender. mfalkvidd mentioned that I need to go "Vcc to Vcc, GND to GND, RxD to TxD and TxD to RxD", howeverthe sensbender pins don't seem to line up this way?

                              edit just to be clear, the sensebender goes GND GND VCC RXD TXD DTR while the FTDI goes GND DTR RXI TXO PWR CTS GND, so I'm confused how the pins line up, if that makes any sense?

                              here's how you connect the sensebender to your ftdi:

                              --Your_FTDI:Sensebender--
                              GND:GND
                              CTS:GND
                              PWR:VCC
                              TXO:RXD
                              RXI:TXD
                              DTR:DTR

                              korttomaK Offline
                              korttomaK Offline
                              korttoma
                              Hero Member
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #16

                              @HenryWhite said:

                              I forgot to move the jumper to 3V when connecting my 3V pro mini's

                              I have found that I can program the 5V Pro Minis with the FTDI adapter set to 3.3V so I newer change this anymore, no risk of braking something that can not handle 5V.

                              • Tomas
                              1 Reply Last reply
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                              • rsachocR Offline
                                rsachocR Offline
                                rsachoc
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #17

                                OK, so I had some success with the Sensebender, it works sometimes and not other times. I've tried connected directly to the laptop (via the FTDI, no battery connected) and sometimes it works, other times it doesn't. Would this bad soldering?

                                Also, what's the minimum requirements from a voltage perspective? I've got 2 eneloops which delivers around 2.73volts, whereas the laptop measures 3.3v (tested with a voltmeter tester).

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                                • mfalkviddM Offline
                                  mfalkviddM Offline
                                  mfalkvidd
                                  Mod
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #18

                                  Below 2.8V won't work with the Atmega328 unless you reconfigure the fuses

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