Nice project. Even though some items are in a language I do not understand, the sketch provided me with a better understanding of the MySensors work. Thank you for making the connection of what I know and what I was having trouble understanding.
@OldSurferDude I use this. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-Solenoid-for-Battery-Operated-Timer-57861/203151515
Instead of having to hold the valve open, i can just pulse it. I use a simple motor controller to pulse it and when i need to close it, pulse it in "reverse". That way I could use a battery and if it only opens once or twice a day it's only a half a second or so of draw off the battery.
@Knightan
I believe that your problem may be related to this block of code. See my thoughts as comments....
if (message.type == V_STATUS) { //This is true for all messages received
// Change relay state
state_1 = message.getBool(); //This sets state for state_1 to the received value.
digitalWrite(LED_PIN_Channel_1, state_1?RELAY_1_ON:RELAY_1_OFF);
// Store state in eeprom
saveState(CHILD_ID_5, state_1);
// Write some debug info
Serial.print("Incoming change for sensor: STATE 1");
Serial.print(message.sensor);
Serial.print(", New status: ");
Serial.println(message.getBool());
}
if (message.type == V_STATUS) {
// Change relay state
state_2 = message.getBool(); //This sets state for state_2 to the received value.
digitalWrite(LED_PIN_Channel_2, state_2?RELAY_2_ON:RELAY_2_OFF);
// Store state in eeprom
saveState(CHILD_ID_6, state_2);
// Write some debug info
Serial.print("Incoming change for sensor: STATE 2");
Serial.print(message.sensor);
Serial.print(", New status: ");
Serial.println(message.getBool());
}
It seems to me that state_1 = message.getBool(); AND state_2 = message.getBool(). So they both get set to the incoming value.
I think you need to not set both to the same value and instead differentiate them to unique values. I could be wrong as I have not had chance to do anything related to mysensors for a long time now - I also don't use Domoticz.
Have a look at the code on this page, it might help you a lot.... https://www.mysensors.org/build/relay
I think the comments you make are good. I do have a question about the removing the regulator. I assume you mean the 5V to 3.3V regulator.
I connect to the 5V and I see lot of variation in moisture readings due to the variation in the output of the power supply (solar panel/stepdown). I have a calibration routine for that. The voltage can go as high as 4.2V, which I believe may be bad if I connect the power supply to 3.3V.
Of course, this is not a concern if using two 1.5V batteries. With batteries, the moisture reading would be more consistent over a day. Lot of advantages there. I just don't like changing batteries and I really hate it when they leak. I have every reason to believe that my power supply will last 10 years and I am fortunate to live in a place with consistent sunshine . Someone replicating my project will have to take this into consideration. My design easily accommodates a different power supply.
And my power supply could be used in other projects.
Resistive vs Capacitive sensor. I'm glad you report good results. This gives people options.
Water moisture: I've had good experience with "spraying" the Arduino with clear electronic coating and sealing the enclosure with liquid tape.
-OSD
@fsgraz Did some testing Today and my RFM range is over 80 meters node to node, with no long range antenna. That will be my next test, just waiting for a shipment from China to arrive. I did how ever notice an extreme improvement when I connected the gateway through a USB hub and then started to dig through the forum. @AWI once wrote about using an external PSU to power the long range NRF PA/LAN. I'll try that this weekend as connecting it to they USB port of my PI extended the range to 20 meters Node to Node.
