Hi all, for arduino due it would be enough to define the files for the hal / architecture directory, I'm not able, someone who could show me the way or prepare a base?
@projectMarvin here's the next gen project that is actually a HW sensorTag but also mainly an nRF52840 firmware compatible with openthread and my previous gen simple mesh framework. The openthread is quite simple as you no longer have to worry about app layer when using directly json from the uC
https://www.homesmartmesh.com/docs/microcontrollers/nrf52/thread_sensortag/
@skywatch said in Solar/battery powering:
@zboblamont said in Solar/battery powering:
@rejoe2 Anti-freeze.
But then the hot water would not be suitable to shower/cleaning/pool etc and you then have to go to a heat exchange tank, somewhere to put it and insulate it and pipe to it. I am sure is can be done, but the fact that it is not 'standard' hints at it being costlly or impractical or both.
In fact, imo it's highly recommended to use a seperate circle for the "transport medium" (typically: antifreeze liquid)! Otherwise you will at some point in time get problems with corrosion or deposited dirt particles if media would be continuously renewed. Dependent on the needed amounts of (potable) warm water, it might even be a good idea to have three circles (medium for panel, heating water, potable water). But tanks, heat exchangers and so on (including steering electronics ) are (relatively inexpensive) standard components - at least here in Germany. So imo technical complexity isn't a thing to worry about too much. But as already mentionned: I really doubt, if you will have a financial benefit out of such an installation, if you have to built it from scratch nowerdays. Additionally: have a close look, how big the need for hot water really is - in most cases, e.g. 5m² panel size for a family of 4 persons should be enough for hot water supply in middle Europe (+300l tank volume). As soon as heating is involved, you'll need much higher tank volumes - with no benefit in summer, but not sufficient capacity on roof top or tank volume in winter times?
@rejoe2 Agreed! - But it's not OT as you could mysensors the hell out of such an installation!
Indeed, buiding one's own MySensors-based controller for such a hybrid heating ecosystem would be right on topic - but not in this thread here...
Fyi:
One of my very first things to get done with MySensors had been around my (gas based) central heating system;
we have some tubes installed that would allow medium transport from roof to cellar. But to be honest, atm. I'm not willing to invest in tanks etc.; it's just not cost efficient, even if I would do a lot of the installation work myself....
@electrik said in Wake-up by interrupt doesn't work:
If the delay is not of importance to you, you can also have the sensor request its state from the controller each time it wakes up. No special modifications are needed than.
It's true. But the controller must switch its relay state without having ack received from the node. That's not what MySensors plugin for Vera does. But you gave me an idea to implement an additional relay buildin into the gateway which will work as a proxy for my real actuator. Thank you!
I have built 2 nodes with E01-ML01S (the cheapest module) and I have pretty good experience with them so far.
I didn't have to use any capacitors to improve range, they are directly connected to some medium-quality Arduino Nano GND/3.3V.
One of them is a lighting controller node, ~3 meters from the PA/LNA gateway (+ a 30cm wall) on the same level as the gateway.
The other one is a repeter node and is ~10 meters from the gateway (+ a 20cm wall, same level as the gateway). In this case, radio orientation was important to get a good signal.
One of the test modules could communicate with the gateway through 2 walls and a the ceiling (steel-bar reinforced).
All-in-all, I am satisfied with the signal stability of these modules.
It is a bit finicky to solder the wires to the module because the pads are very small.
I always put some solder on the pads first and reheat when I attach the wires.
I did more investigation played around with sleep outside of mysensors and found a bit of code in a proximity sensor example:
// Reset flag and clear APDS-9960 interrupt (IMPORTANT!)
isr_flag = 0;
if ( !apds.clearProximityInt() ) {
Serial.println("Error clearing interrupt");
}
I then needed to play around with delays to allow the sensor to catchup..
void loop() {
delay(1000);
Recoding back to MySensors
if ( !apds.clearProximityInt() ) {
Serial.println("Error clearing interrupt");
}
wakeupReason = sleep(digitalPinToInterrupt(INT_PIN), FALLING, sleepTime);
setting up the interrupt pin with a pullup forced the FALLING when pin dragged down by the sensor.
void setup() {
pinMode(INT_PIN, INPUT_PULLUP);
All this is on caveat it makes it through some more testing.
