Hi all, for arduino due it would be enough to define the files for the hal / architecture directory, I'm not able, someone who could show me the way or prepare a base?
I know it's a bit late reply xd. You could watch Ben Eater on YouTube. He has build a breadboard computer and explains how it works. He explains it great.
That's some impressive research. Personally I think you don't have to be that hard on yourself when creating hobbyist equipment and devices. With that I mean you might not have to build the device according to the most rigorous safety level. It of course depends on what you are building and how it is going to be used. (Disclaimer; I have a degree in electrical engineering, but I haven't been working with this stuff actively, only as a hobby).
Now there is another aspect also (that is mentioned in this thread). There are competing standards that might or might not be applied in various countries. And most importantly, if you build a device for commercial use, you have to follow the standards in your own area. This might take years of research and work and isn't possible for the hobbyist.
There are of course the general IP classes. If you build a device for IP level 20, the standard says:
"Parts in mains voltage potential should have at least a 6 mm aerial distance and 3 mm insulated distance to conductive parts that the user of the appliance can touch"
This means for instance the distance between a circuit board with mains voltage and the chassis.
Then there is IPC-9592 for power conversion devices. It defines a safe creepage distance as:
0.6 + voltage * 0.005 = creepage distance in mm.
For instance for 250V that would be 1.85 mm, which I think is quite a good rule of thumb for hobbyist applications. That is around Pollution degree 2, II, in your table (which was from DIN EN 60664-1?).
Then there is UL 6500, which is an older standard for audio equipment. They define "The least safe distance in mm between the two differentials in voltage" as:
d = 10^(0.78log(U/300))
Where d is in mm and U in volt. Thus 250 V would be 0.87 mm. That seems rather low, though, if comparing with other standards.
As has been already said in this thread, you have to look at what standards you need to adhere to. But for hobbyist stuff and for devices you build for yourself, you yourself ultimately have the responsibility. And maybe you don't have to follow the most rigorous standard.
Hopefully people that build commercial devices have this all covered. I couldn't imagine that they copy a design from a hobbyist board and create a commercial device based on that. Not when it involves mains voltage. Low voltage stuff is maybe another matter.
@martim said in RF Nano = Nano + NRF24, for just $3,50 on Aliexpress:
@TheoL way to expensive.
For less money, and very little effort, you can put your own together: https://www.openhardware.io/view/480/Compact-nRF24L01-Pro-Mini-Bottom-Shield
As demonstrated, it also gives you more choice and control over the type/quality of nRF24 module that you get.
@emre299 the booster likely adds noise to the power line, and it is a known fact that the nrf24 is very sensitive to this.
Either filter the noise, or better, get a decent booster.
Hi,
By the PCB silk I was wrongly thinking that the module could be on of "RFM69" or "RFM69H" or "RFM69W" and "RFM69HW".
Now if I understood correctly the diagram, the module can only be either the "RFM69W" (low power 13dBm) or the "RFM69HW" (high power 20dBm).
Since this module has the "H" marked it should be "RFM69HW" and that is confirmed by the other side of it, because it has the two additional black ICs.
Thanks!
@evb it's for doing a gasmeter, counting with a reed sensor.
But for my tests, the read sensor is not connected. So nothing wakeup the interrupt.
I just send every 10 minutes the counter, as a keepalive. (Domoticz don't put the sensors as "red" )
First, I was doing test with newbie pcb, and I had strange values.
So I remove everything, and I do test with breadboard and dupont cable.
I just have the arduino pro mini, and the rfm69 solder on a nrf2rfm69 board and a 0.1uF capacitor.
I have 2AA alkaline battery, connected to the VCC/GND pin of arduino and to 3.3V/GND of NRF2RFM adapter.
I measure the current on the cable between battery + and 3,3V of NRF2RFM69 (like in your photo)
I have no scope, so I can't check NSS/MOSI/... and so on. But the transmissions are OK, and everything is working well, except current when sleeping.
I had no time today to do more test today. I will double check everything as soon as possible, try your sketch
