💬 Very narrow and minimal switch node

[carlierd]

Very nice !!
I just started learning Eagles to modify your board for RFM69 compatibility. The road will be long ;)
Could be good also to add ATSHA204A but in a second time !

David.

[alexsh1]

@GertSanders said:

Just tested and found to be OK. Next board will be set up for using a I2C module (will be my smallest temperature sensor yet). Time for a glas of WestVleeteren and rest.

@GertSanders
Westvleteren Blonde is very nice :)
Can you please remind me the difference berwrrn v1 and 1-1?
I think it would be good to add FTDI connection, but the space is very limited

[GertSanders]

@alexsh1 FTDI would be nice to reprogram more easily, but in my case I have a stable sketch which is loaded 1 time, and then the node is deployed. No point in providing extra pins or using boardspace if it is only used once or twice.

I saw that @AWI mentioned pogo-pins to make connections. Also a nice idea. In any case, my node is not designed to be flexible, and after programming I want to forget it. These nodes are sitting on doors and windows and need to do 1 thing only: show status of the reed-switched that are connected to them.

But adding some pads so that pogo pins can make contact to RX, TX and !RESET would still be possible.

It will be nice to see if a RFM69 radio can be connected by @carlierd . Looking forward to some pictures :-)

[GertSanders]

@alexsh1

The difference between v1-0 and V1-1:

V1-0:
has 4 pins connected to VCC, GND, D2, D3 (in this sequence).
LED is connected to D8

V1-1:
has 4 pins, of which 2 are fixed. Vcc and GND are at the outside (closest to board edge).
The two pins in the middle (pin1 and pin2) can be connected to two different pins each by using the solder jumper.
pin1 can be connected to SDA/A4 or to D2
pin2 can be connected to SCL/A5 or to GND
LED is connected to D6

[AWI]

@GertSanders A bit off a hassle, but I don't need pads... ;-)

[GertSanders]

@AWI very nice, where did you buy the pins ?

[AWI]

@GertSanders I used these pins. These work for me but there are many other types in the same store which could serve your needs better.

[alexsh1]

@GertSanders - my idea to use exactly for windows. I was thinking about z-wave ones, but £32 a pot is just way too expensive given I need quite a few. How do you power them?

[GertSanders]

@alexsh1 I power them similar to @m26872 , but with AAA batteries. They fit the 16x16mm cable guide by Legrand (which is a known brand for this in Belgium), available is most DIY stores.

[Dombo71]

Dear
I ordered a few...:-)
Do you have a working sketch that is using less power?
Perhaps wit a motionsensor and a DHt ore something
I hope i get you hardware working..

[alexsh1]

@Dombo71 said:

Dear
I ordered a few...:-)
Do you have a working sketch that is using less power?
Perhaps wit a motionsensor and a DHt ore something
I hope i get you hardware working..

@Dombo71
You can find a few working sketches in the 'Build' section of the website. However, don't you have an idea what it is exactly you'd like to build? I would be useful to know before throwing any sketch.

FYG DHT is by far not a favourite one for a battery use in my view. There are others - SI7120 or BME280

[GertSanders]

@Dombo71
What do you mean with "using less power"?

[GertSanders]

@Dombo71
Motion sensors are also not so low power and as mentioned before, DHT are power hungry. SI7021 is much better for low power/low voltage use.

[Dylano]

@GertSanders said:

SI7021

I hope i can make a 3 in 1 sensor
Motion / contact.
temp and humanity
Better should be a multisensor, with a lot of option so we can choose .
The examples on my sensor are most 1 sensor...

And then work on a battery[s] for a year

Thanks for the SI7021 tip..

[GertSanders]

@Dylano

This board is not meant for more then 1 function.

[alexsh1]

@Dylano Have a look at this board - this would let you program via FTDI and connect several sensors.

http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2744/battery-based-atmega328p-sensor-no-smd

[alexsh1]

@GertSanders How snug is your enclosure? I saw @m26872 used 17x20mm for his slim node, but I was able to find in the UK 16x16mm trunking, which I think maybe a little bit small.

[GertSanders]

@alexsh1
I also use a 16x16mm cable guide and it just fits, the batteries are in batteryholders and therefor they stick out by 1mm. Without the batteryholder they fit perfectly.
The board is 13mm wide at the base which allows passing a few wires next to it. So 16x16 is ok for my narrow board.

[GertSanders]

@alexsh1

Here are some images of the very narrow node in a 16x16mm cable duct. The batteries are AAA type.

[alexsh1]

@GertSanders - Thanks for photos. I have got 16x16mm trunking and just waiting for some spare parts. Will be posting photos shortly.