💬 AC-DC double solid state relay module
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@Achim looks like a mistake in BOM (maybe that aliexpress listing has changed). Project uses same relay, but 5V version is needed.
@mr_const said:
ybe that aliexpress listing has changed). Project uses same relay, but 5V version
Uggh, I just received 20 of the 12v ones yesterday that I purchased from the BOM link. Is it safe to say that these will absolutely not work, or is there some way to adapt them with a step-up converter or something?
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@Nca78
I have searched others wall box today but nothing fit (box from france).
A 43x45mm pcb will fit well.
I tried the pcb of the roller-shutter-node (45x46mm) and the wall box fits well.
What do you mean by "no additionnal connectors" ? Will can use physical switches ?@tonnerre33 said:
@Nca78
I have searched others wall box today but nothing fit (box from france).
A 43x45mm pcb will fit well.
I tried the pcb of the roller-shutter-node (45x46mm) and the wall box fits well.
What do you mean by "no additionnal connectors" ? Will can use physical switches ?I mean that with my future PCB you have neutral and phase in, and neutral and phase out. No need to have an extra wire from "phase in" to go to the input of the relay + a connector to connect "neutral" in to "neutral out" (that is not available on the board). At the moment with the board I installed, I have to use a wago connector for neutral which takes some extra space.
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Hello,
Nca78 has already answered :
@Nca78 said:
@tonnerre33 said:
Hi,
can we install this module in a wall ?
Can we command shutters ?For the wall, that's the idea of keeping the 50*50mm size :)
For the shutters technically yes, but there are (at least) 2 problems :- if you have the 2 relays on at the same time = 2 directions you will probably kill the motor, there is no hardware protection on this board to avoid that (one of the relays must have power only when the other one is in off state). This can be done in software so it's not blocking.
- if you want to be able to control the level/percentage of closing, you need to measure time from min to max position, to do that you need to measure current (when motor stop consuming current it means shutter has reached it's 0% or 100% position). But there is no current sensor on this board, so you either need to implement a manual calibration process (that will lose precision over time) or use only manual control.
I am planning to test it when I have some time, and when I receive the PCB.
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Looking to do something similar, Thanks for the contribution.
However, I'd be very concerned about using an SSR (solid state relay) vs a mechanical relay. Even in the "OFF" position there is typically a small potential/current leakage through an SSR. When using SSR nearly all applications use a secondary mechanical disconnect to truely isolate the load, for service etc. Thoughts? -
Looking to do something similar, Thanks for the contribution.
However, I'd be very concerned about using an SSR (solid state relay) vs a mechanical relay. Even in the "OFF" position there is typically a small potential/current leakage through an SSR. When using SSR nearly all applications use a secondary mechanical disconnect to truely isolate the load, for service etc. Thoughts? -
Looking to do something similar, Thanks for the contribution.
However, I'd be very concerned about using an SSR (solid state relay) vs a mechanical relay. Even in the "OFF" position there is typically a small potential/current leakage through an SSR. When using SSR nearly all applications use a secondary mechanical disconnect to truely isolate the load, for service etc. Thoughts?@Y_sam,
Nca78 highlighetd two problems:- The absence of mecanical interlock between the "up" and "down" relays, (you can use a soft interlock to prevent them from beign activated at the same time)
- The absence of a current sensor to know whether or not the shutter is fully open or fully closed : I am trying to add an ACS712, but in my case, i will know if its fully open/close if the current becomes relatively high, because the my roller shutter doesnt have limit switches and keeps running ...
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@mr_const said:
ybe that aliexpress listing has changed). Project uses same relay, but 5V version
Uggh, I just received 20 of the 12v ones yesterday that I purchased from the BOM link. Is it safe to say that these will absolutely not work, or is there some way to adapt them with a step-up converter or something?
@JonnyDev13 said:
@mr_const said:
ybe that aliexpress listing has changed). Project uses same relay, but 5V version
Uggh, I just received 20 of the 12v ones yesterday that I purchased from the BOM link. Is it safe to say that these will absolutely not work, or is there some way to adapt them with a step-up converter or something?
You cannot adapt them with a step-up converter, there's no space on the PCB for that. But you should test them with 5V, if you are lucky they might work. I'm using 5V relays with 3.3V without any problem. The "must switch off" value in datasheet (for the original, remember what you bought is a clone...) is 0.9V which should be ok (real switch off value will probably be closer to this than to 5V) but the "must switch on" value is 8.4V which is quite far away from the 5V. The only way you will know if it will reliably switch one with 5V is to give it a try.
@okos said:
Hello.
I tried to upload my two boards ( arduino pro mini 8Mhz , 3,3 V ) modified sketches but returned to sketch Nca78 (with DS18B20), unfortunately, does not operate a physical switch. Sometimes phisical switch changes state in domoticz ( not every time ) but relays do not change state.
Switching on and switching off the lights of domoticz changes state relay without a problem.
What could be wrong ?Sorry I'm a bit short on free time at the moment, didn't have time to take a look at the sketch yet.
What you are saying is sometimes you change the physical switch position, it changes the status in domoticz, but the light status is not matching the status of the physical switch and the value of the switch in Domoticz ?For example: light is off and domoticz says off. Then you push the switch and domoticz says the light is on. But in fact the light is still off ?
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@JonnyDev13 said:
@mr_const said:
ybe that aliexpress listing has changed). Project uses same relay, but 5V version
Uggh, I just received 20 of the 12v ones yesterday that I purchased from the BOM link. Is it safe to say that these will absolutely not work, or is there some way to adapt them with a step-up converter or something?
You cannot adapt them with a step-up converter, there's no space on the PCB for that. But you should test them with 5V, if you are lucky they might work. I'm using 5V relays with 3.3V without any problem. The "must switch off" value in datasheet (for the original, remember what you bought is a clone...) is 0.9V which should be ok (real switch off value will probably be closer to this than to 5V) but the "must switch on" value is 8.4V which is quite far away from the 5V. The only way you will know if it will reliably switch one with 5V is to give it a try.
@okos said:
Hello.
I tried to upload my two boards ( arduino pro mini 8Mhz , 3,3 V ) modified sketches but returned to sketch Nca78 (with DS18B20), unfortunately, does not operate a physical switch. Sometimes phisical switch changes state in domoticz ( not every time ) but relays do not change state.
Switching on and switching off the lights of domoticz changes state relay without a problem.
What could be wrong ?Sorry I'm a bit short on free time at the moment, didn't have time to take a look at the sketch yet.
What you are saying is sometimes you change the physical switch position, it changes the status in domoticz, but the light status is not matching the status of the physical switch and the value of the switch in Domoticz ?For example: light is off and domoticz says off. Then you push the switch and domoticz says the light is on. But in fact the light is still off ?
@Nca78 Thanks for your thoughts. I will try testing it with 5v and see what happens.
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@tonnerre33, je suis également en France et je n'ai pas de neutre dans mes interrupteurs. Peux tu me dire comment tu as pu tester le pcb stp. Mon anglais est loin d être top desolé !!
@laster13 hi, i have tried this pcb with my bedroom lamp. Indeed, these lamps are powered by electrical socket which include neutral wire.
For the others lamps, i need to find how to command them without neutral wire ;)
I am looking at this project but this is an smd project :https://www.openhardware.io/view/249/MDMSNode-Lighting
@laster13 salut, en fait mes lampes de chambres sont sur prises commandées (donc accès au neutre), du coup j'utilise ce module pour ces lampes mais pour les autres bin il va falloir que je trouve autre chose ;)
Je regarde un peu du coté de ce projet mais c'est du cms : voir le lien au dessus -
I Will tried to speak english 😗.
Thanks tonnerre33 for your help. Could you give me à shema of your installation in the bedroom ?Here is a schema of my installation without the node :
http://electric.system.free.fr/schemas/schemas/schema-prise-commandee.jpgand one with the pcb :
http://www.photorapide.com/images.php?photoName=2whnu7.png&photoId=935027
Edit : and the node with connectors :
http://www.photorapide.com/images.php?photoName=074tl3.jpg&photoId=935034
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Sure you can use an electrical socket without switch control.
But caution, max current is 2A ! It is ok for lamps but you can't supply a receiver which consumes more than 460VA per relay ( = 460W for resistive receiver).
I didn't see protection for relays, be careful ;) -
I am trying to test a montage which I am not sure about and besides when I plug the pcb on the socket the lamp remains on. I invite you to read my post on the Domoticz forum.
http://easydomoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2680&p=25219#p25219I am sorry for my english, I use the traducer of google
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Hi All,
This is my first post on this site!!
Yes this is a really good project but for the UK controlling a light inside of a wall switch you would need to do the following.
Re-wire the ceiling rose as in the UK there is a live feed from the rose that is switched by the switch and then returns to the rose to the "switched live" See http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/project_images/lights_and_switches/ceilingroseb2.jpg
Put an extra cable up to the ceiling rose with the return cable from the board that goes to the switched live and add an extra terminal in the ceiling rose to link the neutral to the other side of the lamp fitting.
If the back box is metal, it would need to be changed to a plastic box , I wouldn't myself want to mount the board in an earthed metal box!!
As other contributors have noted there isn't any fusing on the live and neutral feeds if the SSR were to fail short because of a short circuit in the lamp or ceiling rose then there could be a large current going through board that could potentially cause a fire, safety is always the first thought with any mains electrical circuit.
I could see this board being used in a plastic box inline to a table lamp etc. but it would need a lot of work to re-wire your house if you intended to use it behind a wall switch.
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I am trying to test a montage which I am not sure about and besides when I plug the pcb on the socket the lamp remains on. I invite you to read my post on the Domoticz forum.
http://easydomoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2680&p=25219#p25219I am sorry for my english, I use the traducer of google
@laster13 Yes your schema is correct.
The sketch has been modified by Nca78, you can try it first.
The problem does not come from the unused switch, because i use this node without switch.
