💬 AC-DC double solid state relay module
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hello, anyone use this project with home assistant?
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Thanks for this. One question about the SSR. Does it matter if its a zero crossing relay or not if just switching lamps with fixed amps? That the difference between the G3MB-202P and G3MB-202PL. I'm not sure which to get.
@Paul-Derbyshire if you're buying on aliexpress at less than 3$ a relay, you're buying chinese clones like most of us here. I doubt they bothered implementing the zero-crossing function on the chinese clones...
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Hi,
I love this project. This is almost exactly what I wanted to do by myself (but I have no knowledge in PCB design). As this project shouldn't require much power, have you ever though about using a dropping capacitor PSU (http://www.circuitsgallery.com/2012/07/transformer-less-ac-to-dc-capacitor-power-supply-circuit2.html) instead of the HLK-PM01 ?
If this is a working solution, it would make your project even cheaper.An other question on the DS18B20. Wont the proximity with the relays (heat generators) will disturb the temperature reading ?
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Hi,
I love this project. This is almost exactly what I wanted to do by myself (but I have no knowledge in PCB design). As this project shouldn't require much power, have you ever though about using a dropping capacitor PSU (http://www.circuitsgallery.com/2012/07/transformer-less-ac-to-dc-capacitor-power-supply-circuit2.html) instead of the HLK-PM01 ?
If this is a working solution, it would make your project even cheaper.An other question on the DS18B20. Wont the proximity with the relays (heat generators) will disturb the temperature reading ?
Hello !
Transformerless design means there is not isolation between main voltage and low voltage parts. You can get electrocuted with 110/220V when touching the low voltage side. It means it can be used only in the case of a sealed box.For the temperature sensor the main source of heat is the hlk that heats up a lot. It's purpose is not to sense the temperature in the room, but to monitor the temperature inside the sensor and make sure there is not problem with the hlk overheating.
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Hello !
Transformerless design means there is not isolation between main voltage and low voltage parts. You can get electrocuted with 110/220V when touching the low voltage side. It means it can be used only in the case of a sealed box.For the temperature sensor the main source of heat is the hlk that heats up a lot. It's purpose is not to sense the temperature in the room, but to monitor the temperature inside the sensor and make sure there is not problem with the hlk overheating.
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Would it be possible tot change the relays to one (or two) triacs, keeping it's current features and also allowing it to dim lights?
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found 250V 0.25A o aliexpress - i believe this will be good enough - http://tiny.cc/h4fpiy
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Hi @aproxx , very nice module! Just one question: after studying the board I still not quite understand how an existing light switch needs to be connected. There are 3 connecters, one for AC and two relays. Where do I connect the light switch to?
Cheers! Sacha
@Sacha-Telgenhof : It also took me bit of time. It is the PINs on the board 7 GND 4 for two switches 7 and 4 are the digital inputs on arduino.
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hey @Aproxx, nice project, do you think a current sensor could be added to the PCB to monitor electrical consumption. the idea of adding triact to the circuit by @overlordt seems to work theoretically.
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My parts are on the way and I"m looking forward to trying this one out. Thanks for sharing this project!!
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I can't understand (scrub here) how to wire the regular light switch to the board.
Supposing I want to use only one relay, I have to wire the switch to the 7 PIN and GND right? -
I can't understand (scrub here) how to wire the regular light switch to the board.
Supposing I want to use only one relay, I have to wire the switch to the 7 PIN and GND right?@Marco-Lo-Grasso said in 💬 AC-DC double solid state relay module:
Yes you have to do this, but i don't know if the sketch is working fine with the light switch ;) I haven't tested this feature yet.
Caution, the light switch don't be connected to the 230V !
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Any suggestions for front panels on the light switches? I've connected mine to normal switches to control the relays, but I'd really like a 4-8 soft button front panel that I could also wire into GPIO's on an ESP for "scene" control outside of the local relays. Auy suggestions or experience would be great
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Hello, I'm not sure exactly of what you want to to, but you could use software i2c on those two pins and connect and i2c keypad. You can search mpr121 keypad on google or aliexpress.
But be careful you should add an isolating cover on top of it if you connect to this board as the crepage/cleatance between main voltage and 5V/3.3V is not sufficient in some part of the board and it could end up with low voltage circuit at main voltage... -
good to know clearence isn't there ... something i could correct though
An i2c and capacity touch could work great.. but i can't find any cleanly designed front panel that I could use in place of my light switches.
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So if I understanded right the device needs also neutral to work? That's a problem because here in Finland we only circulate the phase through light switches. Neutral goes straight to the lamps.
@Misna said in 💬 AC-DC double solid state relay module:
So if I understanded right the device needs also neutral to work? That's a problem because here in Finland we only circulate the phase through light switches. Neutral goes straight to the lamps.
Yes it does. Same problem for most people, even here in Vietnam it's the same.
Solution is to put it in ceiling connected directly to the lights, and use radio switch to control it.
