Multisensor PIR based on IKEA Molgan

[dynamite]

@Yveaux NICE! Can I get the files for the board as a sneak preview? Do you get the PIR signal / Light control from the same place as I was indicating?

[Yveaux]

@dynamite Send me your email in a chat and it comes your way.
I'll probably post it all on openhardware.io when it's finished and proven to work.
Fun thing is I tried the power usage of the original PIR with and without the regulator, and the power usage was actually less with the regulator than without :yum:
I'll use two of the three batteries to also power my addon board.
The trigger is taken from the top led, just below the battery cover screw in the picture.
I could take it from before the transistor, but this way I needed no extra wire.

[dynamite]

@Yveaux Sent you a DM with my email adress. Can't you use the voltage level after the regulator? The regulator is rated up to 30 mA.

[Yveaux]

@dynamite Possibly. I just wanted to keep options open.
One wire is required to power the board; either from the batteries, or from the regulator.
I'll just see what works best.

[hek]

This have to be posted on http://www.ikeahackers.net/ when done also.

[Yveaux]

@hek Will do just nice, next to the AK47 Hemma Lamp :flushed:

[dynamite]

@Yveaux @hek how do you know of the existance of such a site...?:frowning:

[Yveaux]

@dynamite I didn't. Got it from @hek :bowtie:

[danta]

Did someone succeed in fitting a pro mini and radio in the Molgan while still using the original pir?
It looks to me there isn't enough room for the additional components and I'm not sure what part of the pcb I can saw off while still being able to use the original pir.

Does anyone have an idea?

[dynamite]

@danta
Fits.... Ok i need to attach the wites but it will still fit. The NRF can be placed on the other side

[Sander Stolk]

Bought 3 pcs. to open / modify / try fitting things in it. The thing is that this housing is really perfect to place it on the ceiling or to fit things in. Better than a black box.
What I'm going to try is remove all the plastic inside including the batteryhousing but not the "click"-system to mount it.
I'm going to try to make it 230 volt compatible with a HLK-PM01 so that I can use it as a PIR, Temp and door sensor and connect it at the ceiling.

Let you know how things are working out!

[Yveaux]

@Sander-Stolk said:

door sensor and connect it at the ceiling

???
My house has its doors in the walls...

[Sander Stolk]

@Yveaux said:

@Sander-Stolk said:

door sensor and connect it at the ceiling

???
My house has its doors in the walls...

Well... connect a very small white wire in the hallway to the top of the door with a magnet.
With white ceilings you can put little cables like out of sight

[Yveaux]

@Sander-Stolk ah, OK. I think you can even run it all on batteries if you want

[Sander Stolk]

@Yveaux Yes it can BUT...
I have 0 succesfull attempts with a APM with removed regulator on 2 AA batteries. For some reason it draws power and within 3 days my batteries are dead. It's something that I will ask on the forum in a while but for now this works all the time so for it is the easy way :)

[tomkxy]

Here is my a picture of my modded version . I used a Sensebender which is perfect for that use case having already a ATSHA204 and temp/humid sensor on board.

[tomkxy]

I put a more complete write up of my mod from the previous post on my blog including the link to the sketch.

[dynamite]

@tomkxy Nice write up of the "conversion". One remark to save some time... instead of removing R12 to R16 you can just remove R17 ... same result less effort.

[tomkxy]

@dynamite said:

@tomkxy Nice write up of the "conversion". One remark to save some time... instead of removing R12 to R16 you can just remove R17 ... same result less effort.

Thanks for pointing that out!

[TimO]

@tomkxy Nice write up! Do you have an idea on the accuracy of the humidity sensor within the case?