What did you build today (Pictures) ?
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Not related to MySensors but I also assembled a first version of a battery powered led light, it's small and cheap and I will assemble a bunch to put around my home when there are some power cuts in evening/night. I'm using 3020 leds and they emit a lot of light for their small size, even with low current so I expect to get around 2 hours of battery life with the cheap aliexpress 16340 batteries, and way more than needed with the 18650 cells salvaged from my old laptop battery.
My first board with a li-ion charger and it is working well, now I'm waiting for the battery protection ics (cheap DW01 from AliExpress) to arrive as my batteries are not protected.

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Not related to MySensors but I also assembled a first version of a battery powered led light, it's small and cheap and I will assemble a bunch to put around my home when there are some power cuts in evening/night. I'm using 3020 leds and they emit a lot of light for their small size, even with low current so I expect to get around 2 hours of battery life with the cheap aliexpress 16340 batteries, and way more than needed with the 18650 cells salvaged from my old laptop battery.
My first board with a li-ion charger and it is working well, now I'm waiting for the battery protection ics (cheap DW01 from AliExpress) to arrive as my batteries are not protected.

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Some more testings on my Logger... I want it to work great before moving on so alot of testing is needed. Why not do it on node #1 (note the old rev om EasyPCB).

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Completely unrelated but a impossible project for me it seems...
Im building a wifi "babywatch" in a USB stick.
It sends sounds to a app/software which is build to run in the background. This to be able to game or watch video with headphones and still know if you have a angry child.
So pretty much Mic -> Amp -> ADC -> Esp8266 -> Wifi -> Software/App.


This seems impossible to do with all the interference. Everything works now (Rev1) but im now on Rev 6+ or something and I cant get rid of the noice in the Audio.
Seperate power supply + ground for analog and digital side but It seems like the Esp8266 inserts to much noice.
Well, it was a great idea but hard to accomplish.
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Completely unrelated but a impossible project for me it seems...
Im building a wifi "babywatch" in a USB stick.
It sends sounds to a app/software which is build to run in the background. This to be able to game or watch video with headphones and still know if you have a angry child.
So pretty much Mic -> Amp -> ADC -> Esp8266 -> Wifi -> Software/App.


This seems impossible to do with all the interference. Everything works now (Rev1) but im now on Rev 6+ or something and I cant get rid of the noice in the Audio.
Seperate power supply + ground for analog and digital side but It seems like the Esp8266 inserts to much noice.
Well, it was a great idea but hard to accomplish.
@sundberg84
I really like that case. Do you have a link where you purchased it? -
Completely unrelated but a impossible project for me it seems...
Im building a wifi "babywatch" in a USB stick.
It sends sounds to a app/software which is build to run in the background. This to be able to game or watch video with headphones and still know if you have a angry child.
So pretty much Mic -> Amp -> ADC -> Esp8266 -> Wifi -> Software/App.


This seems impossible to do with all the interference. Everything works now (Rev1) but im now on Rev 6+ or something and I cant get rid of the noice in the Audio.
Seperate power supply + ground for analog and digital side but It seems like the Esp8266 inserts to much noice.
Well, it was a great idea but hard to accomplish.
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@sundberg84 analog and esp8266 also beat me. Tried to play some music from an ESP8266 but result was barely usable. I switched to dac+amp connected via i2s which works fine.
Maybe you could try with a digital i2s microphone...@yveaux - thanks!!! A new hope ;) I will.
@nagelc - I use this: https://www.mouser.se/productdetail/789-p3a-220805s but note, there are 4 different variants. WIth and without opening for USB connector and other stuff. I can send you the footprint for the PCB if you wants. -
@yveaux - thanks!!! A new hope ;) I will.
@nagelc - I use this: https://www.mouser.se/productdetail/789-p3a-220805s but note, there are 4 different variants. WIth and without opening for USB connector and other stuff. I can send you the footprint for the PCB if you wants.@sundberg84 Thanks. Looks like that company has several interesting enclosure shapes. Someday I might get a project complete enough that I will want to put it in an enclosure : )
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The nice thing about owning a 3D printer is that I don't have to buy enclosures any more. I just have to buy rolls of plastic. The sky is the limit when you have a 3D printer. I do like that enclosure though.
@dbemowsk said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:
The nice thing about owning a 3D printer is that I don't have to buy enclosures any more. I just have to buy rolls of plastic. The sky is the limit when you have a 3D printer. I do like that enclosure though.
Can't agree more, made a quick box for the lights with "crystal" PLA. You need a lot of imagination to believe it's crystal, but it's nice for a light enclosure as it acts as diffuser.

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@dbemowsk said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:
The nice thing about owning a 3D printer is that I don't have to buy enclosures any more. I just have to buy rolls of plastic. The sky is the limit when you have a 3D printer. I do like that enclosure though.
Can't agree more, made a quick box for the lights with "crystal" PLA. You need a lot of imagination to believe it's crystal, but it's nice for a light enclosure as it acts as diffuser.

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Today I'm trying out Thingsboard, which sort of is a controller, but on steroids.
So far, it seems quite capable, but I have a lot of learning to do. My first step was to integrate it with Sigfox, which seems to work.

Hey @mfalkvidd were you able to get mysensors nodes to send data to thingsboard? If so, I'm interested to know how you did that. Wondering if thingsboard can be configured as a controller for mysensors. Thanks!
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Hey @mfalkvidd were you able to get mysensors nodes to send data to thingsboard? If so, I'm interested to know how you did that. Wondering if thingsboard can be configured as a controller for mysensors. Thanks!
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@mfalkvidd no problem, thanks
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So today I created a simple python script to bridge serial gateway with mqtt bus on my RPI:
https://github.com/mczerski/MySensorsSerial2MQTTThis is because I already use spi for nrf24 module mounted on a custom pcb so there is no room for another spi device.
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I'm building a wine rack for my wife in a celler room (currently 14 dgr with 4 dgr outside). I mowed my beer cooler temp node (rfm radio) to measure how much the temp changed over the day. I wrote a script in Lua/Domoticz that each time it changes 1dgr it should notify me. Apparently is a stable temp the most important to store wine.
All ideas how I can automate the shit out of this wine-room are appreciated.
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LCD display with temp/hum (both on the floor and celling) (Red needs apparently cooler than white wine... Or the opposite).
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I'm thinking about to try a passive cooler. A burried hose/pipe in a loop with a 12v fan/pump and temp. My idea is that if I rotate the 14dgr air in a say 20m pipe under ground it should cool the air some . This needs to be automated to keep the temp stable.
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light. Some sort of led strips.
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I'm building a wine rack for my wife in a celler room (currently 14 dgr with 4 dgr outside). I mowed my beer cooler temp node (rfm radio) to measure how much the temp changed over the day. I wrote a script in Lua/Domoticz that each time it changes 1dgr it should notify me. Apparently is a stable temp the most important to store wine.
All ideas how I can automate the shit out of this wine-room are appreciated.
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LCD display with temp/hum (both on the floor and celling) (Red needs apparently cooler than white wine... Or the opposite).
-
I'm thinking about to try a passive cooler. A burried hose/pipe in a loop with a 12v fan/pump and temp. My idea is that if I rotate the 14dgr air in a say 20m pipe under ground it should cool the air some . This needs to be automated to keep the temp stable.
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light. Some sort of led strips.
@sundberg84 Yeah, this brings back memories, particularly of quite a few hangovers.
I used 3 and four wide fireclay pipes for bottle storage, they were used for ducts back in the day before plastics took over, cable went optic fibre. I noticed recently here they are back in stock in stores as....yep...wine storage racks.... but wacko pricing relatively...
The beauty of the fireclay was it's slow temperature and humidity change, and this formed the bulk of the thermal mass in the cellar I made below the floor.
I used a 150mm glazed ceramic drainage pipe dug in under the garden as a loop (rope caulked joints - anybody remember them), from memory down about 1.5m, both avoiding frosts and baking sun, don't think the temperature varied over a degree all year round, the ground acting as a massive heatsink which maintained a constant temperature all year round.
Only when the hatch was opened did the temperature jump, a small fan kicked in when the hatch was closed and ran for 30 minutes, a second contact switched on the lights and shut them off, long before LEDs were so prevalent, old reliable (until you were depending on them) incandescent bulbs.
That was it really.
Biggest problem I found was humidity in the early days, probably the fresh construction... -
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My wine rack is at the store. ;)
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I'm building a wine rack for my wife in a celler room (currently 14 dgr with 4 dgr outside). I mowed my beer cooler temp node (rfm radio) to measure how much the temp changed over the day. I wrote a script in Lua/Domoticz that each time it changes 1dgr it should notify me. Apparently is a stable temp the most important to store wine.
All ideas how I can automate the shit out of this wine-room are appreciated.
-
LCD display with temp/hum (both on the floor and celling) (Red needs apparently cooler than white wine... Or the opposite).
-
I'm thinking about to try a passive cooler. A burried hose/pipe in a loop with a 12v fan/pump and temp. My idea is that if I rotate the 14dgr air in a say 20m pipe under ground it should cool the air some . This needs to be automated to keep the temp stable.
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light. Some sort of led strips.
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