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  3. What did you build today (Pictures) ?

What did you build today (Pictures) ?

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  • sundberg84S sundberg84

    0_1517069081859_IMG_20180127_170256.jpg

    I'm building a wine rack for my wife in a celler room (currently 14 dgr with 4 dgr outside). I mowed my beer cooler temp node (rfm radio) to measure how much the temp changed over the day. I wrote a script in Lua/Domoticz that each time it changes 1dgr it should notify me. Apparently is a stable temp the most important to store wine.

    All ideas how I can automate the shit out of this wine-room are appreciated.

    • LCD display with temp/hum (both on the floor and celling) (Red needs apparently cooler than white wine... Or the opposite).

    • I'm thinking about to try a passive cooler. A burried hose/pipe in a loop with a 12v fan/pump and temp. My idea is that if I rotate the 14dgr air in a say 20m pipe under ground it should cool the air some . This needs to be automated to keep the temp stable.

    • light. Some sort of led strips.

    tbowmoT Offline
    tbowmoT Offline
    tbowmo
    Admin
    wrote on last edited by
    #344

    @sundberg84

    Why not just collect the temperatures over time, in f.ex. influxdb, and then use grafana to analyze data? (Instead of pushing messages to your phone whenever the temperature changes..)

    sundberg84S gohanG 2 Replies Last reply
    0
    • tbowmoT tbowmo

      @sundberg84

      Why not just collect the temperatures over time, in f.ex. influxdb, and then use grafana to analyze data? (Instead of pushing messages to your phone whenever the temperature changes..)

      sundberg84S Offline
      sundberg84S Offline
      sundberg84
      Hardware Contributor
      wrote on last edited by sundberg84
      #345

      @tbowmo well I have Domoticz to collect data. Maybe your alternative is much better but I can't change from Domoticz without redo everything. The push is just to get a heads-up how often or changes but I can go into Domoticz and follow 15 min updates as well on a daily, weekly and monthly graph .

      Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
      RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

      tbowmoT 1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • tbowmoT tbowmo

        @sundberg84

        Why not just collect the temperatures over time, in f.ex. influxdb, and then use grafana to analyze data? (Instead of pushing messages to your phone whenever the temperature changes..)

        gohanG Offline
        gohanG Offline
        gohan
        Mod
        wrote on last edited by
        #346

        @tbowmo as the temperature doesn't change that quickly, the 5 minutes Domoticz interval it is OK. As soon as you see a daily variance within your requirements, you are good

        1 Reply Last reply
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        • dbemowskD Offline
          dbemowskD Offline
          dbemowsk
          wrote on last edited by
          #347

          Was I right to assume that the push of temperature changes to the phone every degree was simply for the initial testing to see quickly how often it would change?

          Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
          Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

          1 Reply Last reply
          1
          • nagelcN Offline
            nagelcN Offline
            nagelc
            wrote on last edited by
            #348

            I finally got a BT832 (NRF52832 from Fanstel) to talk to my NRF24 gateway. I got the NFR5s a while ago. Made a quick breakout board (quick to design, but slow delivery). In the mean time, I configured a STM32 "Blue Pill" as a Blackmagic Probe to program it. I had to get the latest Sandeep Mistry NRF5 files from github in order for it to support the blackmagic probe, but . . . it worked : ) So far I have just run the MockMySensors and it shows up on Domoticz.
            0_1517119518925_20180128_004035.jpg

            1 Reply Last reply
            3
            • sundberg84S sundberg84

              @tbowmo well I have Domoticz to collect data. Maybe your alternative is much better but I can't change from Domoticz without redo everything. The push is just to get a heads-up how often or changes but I can go into Domoticz and follow 15 min updates as well on a daily, weekly and monthly graph .

              tbowmoT Offline
              tbowmoT Offline
              tbowmo
              Admin
              wrote on last edited by
              #349

              @sundberg84
              With a little bit of nodered injected in the stream, you could have domoticz running without ever noticing that influx etc is getting the data as well :)

              1 Reply Last reply
              2
              • sundberg84S Offline
                sundberg84S Offline
                sundberg84
                Hardware Contributor
                wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                #350

                6.3 days or 152hours just inst good enough - this is what my logger managed to do with 2xAA debugging a temp/hum node sending every 15min. Its below 50% to target (14 days) but this included the leds was on all the time... how much can a 2x leds do :neutral_face: ?? Next experiemtn...

                0_1517140948433_Logger6h.png

                Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                1 Reply Last reply
                2
                • nagelcN Offline
                  nagelcN Offline
                  nagelc
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #351

                  @sundberg84
                  @tbowmo
                  Domoticz can also push the data to influx DB. See Settings>More Options>Data Push

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  3
                  • dbemowskD Offline
                    dbemowskD Offline
                    dbemowsk
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #352

                    So for a few days now I have been working on my idea for a homebrew CNC machine made from mostly salvaged parts. This weekend I made some good progress getting the Y axis drive assembly mostly done. I have not tested anything yet, but I hope to in the next few days. Anyways, here is what I have...

                    The stepper motor is one salvaged from an old dot matrix printer. The gear on it was press fit on the shaft with no real way to get it off, so I opted to make a geared drive assembly. I realize that this will slow the Y axis down, but it should also give it a bit more precision. Below is the stepper motor.
                    0_1517204931227_b940ccdf-0d30-4a67-bfe2-071e6eec469a-image.png

                    For mounting it, I designed this adapter plate which carries a steel roller bearing for the screw shaft.
                    0_1517205082429_fe119ca7-5e6d-48b2-bc48-ba86a09ed33c-image.png

                    This is an early mounting plate design before I added the upper and lower mounting tabs. This shows the gear with the shaft attached. The gear was made using an OpenSCAD gear library.
                    0_1517205252644_2d35f97c-b9b9-482c-b811-f7562f164049-image.png

                    Yesterday I designed the bracket that attaches to and drives the Y axis platter/build plate (Sorry, forgot to take a decent pic of that part).
                    0_1517205734481_60ec4f33-b3c8-4ead-83cd-ca103751669d-image.png

                    Today I was able to finish the front and rear frame braces and got parts rough fitted together. the 2 rails with the small white linear bearings are some rods that were salvaged from a couple old scanners. These were used as the rail for the scanner head. I have pics of the full assembly as well as the motor assembly mounted on the rear brace.
                    0_1517205974794_758e9eae-82f2-462d-968a-17ea5ca0307e-image.png 0_1517205984333_5e431750-c309-480c-98a4-5475945bd9a6-image.png

                    I can't say how well the design will work, if at all, but it has been a fun journey so far trying.

                    Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                    Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                    B 1 Reply Last reply
                    3
                    • dbemowskD dbemowsk

                      So for a few days now I have been working on my idea for a homebrew CNC machine made from mostly salvaged parts. This weekend I made some good progress getting the Y axis drive assembly mostly done. I have not tested anything yet, but I hope to in the next few days. Anyways, here is what I have...

                      The stepper motor is one salvaged from an old dot matrix printer. The gear on it was press fit on the shaft with no real way to get it off, so I opted to make a geared drive assembly. I realize that this will slow the Y axis down, but it should also give it a bit more precision. Below is the stepper motor.
                      0_1517204931227_b940ccdf-0d30-4a67-bfe2-071e6eec469a-image.png

                      For mounting it, I designed this adapter plate which carries a steel roller bearing for the screw shaft.
                      0_1517205082429_fe119ca7-5e6d-48b2-bc48-ba86a09ed33c-image.png

                      This is an early mounting plate design before I added the upper and lower mounting tabs. This shows the gear with the shaft attached. The gear was made using an OpenSCAD gear library.
                      0_1517205252644_2d35f97c-b9b9-482c-b811-f7562f164049-image.png

                      Yesterday I designed the bracket that attaches to and drives the Y axis platter/build plate (Sorry, forgot to take a decent pic of that part).
                      0_1517205734481_60ec4f33-b3c8-4ead-83cd-ca103751669d-image.png

                      Today I was able to finish the front and rear frame braces and got parts rough fitted together. the 2 rails with the small white linear bearings are some rods that were salvaged from a couple old scanners. These were used as the rail for the scanner head. I have pics of the full assembly as well as the motor assembly mounted on the rear brace.
                      0_1517205974794_758e9eae-82f2-462d-968a-17ea5ca0307e-image.png 0_1517205984333_5e431750-c309-480c-98a4-5475945bd9a6-image.png

                      I can't say how well the design will work, if at all, but it has been a fun journey so far trying.

                      B Offline
                      B Offline
                      boozz
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #353

                      @dbemowsk
                      Well it looks as if your 3D-printer works fine :grinning:

                      What I would be slightly worried about is if with the given size of the rods the stiffness of the structure would be enough.
                      Hope to see more from this project in the near future.
                      Good luck!

                      dbemowskD 1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • B boozz

                        @dbemowsk
                        Well it looks as if your 3D-printer works fine :grinning:

                        What I would be slightly worried about is if with the given size of the rods the stiffness of the structure would be enough.
                        Hope to see more from this project in the near future.
                        Good luck!

                        dbemowskD Offline
                        dbemowskD Offline
                        dbemowsk
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #354

                        @boozz I will be curious to see if I can get enough precision to do PCBs. I have yet to buy a GRBL board to control it. For now I am going to use the UNO that I have for testing just to do test runs of the servos until I get one. This is the one I have been looking at:
                        https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-CNC-Shield-Kit-UNO-Board-4x-DRV8825-Drivers-Package-Deal-FREE-USA-SHIP/292174947187?hash=item4406fbe373:g:A0sAAOSwJThZpeKr
                        I will also have to figure out the gear ratios of the motor assemblies once I am done because I am sure I will need them to calibrate the GRBL setup. I know on this part of it I have about a 4.8:1 ratio from the motor to the large gear, but I'll have to figure out steps per cm or steps per mm or something. If anyone knows a good way of figuring this out I am all ears.

                        Thanks for the upvotes.

                        Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                        Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                        NeverDieN YveauxY 2 Replies Last reply
                        0
                        • dbemowskD dbemowsk

                          @boozz I will be curious to see if I can get enough precision to do PCBs. I have yet to buy a GRBL board to control it. For now I am going to use the UNO that I have for testing just to do test runs of the servos until I get one. This is the one I have been looking at:
                          https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-CNC-Shield-Kit-UNO-Board-4x-DRV8825-Drivers-Package-Deal-FREE-USA-SHIP/292174947187?hash=item4406fbe373:g:A0sAAOSwJThZpeKr
                          I will also have to figure out the gear ratios of the motor assemblies once I am done because I am sure I will need them to calibrate the GRBL setup. I know on this part of it I have about a 4.8:1 ratio from the motor to the large gear, but I'll have to figure out steps per cm or steps per mm or something. If anyone knows a good way of figuring this out I am all ears.

                          Thanks for the upvotes.

                          NeverDieN Offline
                          NeverDieN Offline
                          NeverDie
                          Hero Member
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #355

                          @dbemowsk It will save you the hassle of upgrading if you buy a control board with GRBL1.1f already built in.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • dbemowskD dbemowsk

                            @boozz I will be curious to see if I can get enough precision to do PCBs. I have yet to buy a GRBL board to control it. For now I am going to use the UNO that I have for testing just to do test runs of the servos until I get one. This is the one I have been looking at:
                            https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-CNC-Shield-Kit-UNO-Board-4x-DRV8825-Drivers-Package-Deal-FREE-USA-SHIP/292174947187?hash=item4406fbe373:g:A0sAAOSwJThZpeKr
                            I will also have to figure out the gear ratios of the motor assemblies once I am done because I am sure I will need them to calibrate the GRBL setup. I know on this part of it I have about a 4.8:1 ratio from the motor to the large gear, but I'll have to figure out steps per cm or steps per mm or something. If anyone knows a good way of figuring this out I am all ears.

                            Thanks for the upvotes.

                            YveauxY Offline
                            YveauxY Offline
                            Yveaux
                            Mod
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #356

                            @dbemowsk said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

                            If anyone knows a good way of figuring this out I am all ears.

                            It would expect making a large movement using a defined number of steps, and measuring the actual distance moved with a caliper will give you a rather accurate steps/mm.
                            However, I hope this ratio is constant over the whole range, given the 3d printed gears and expected backlash...

                            http://yveaux.blogspot.nl

                            dbemowskD 1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • YveauxY Yveaux

                              @dbemowsk said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

                              If anyone knows a good way of figuring this out I am all ears.

                              It would expect making a large movement using a defined number of steps, and measuring the actual distance moved with a caliper will give you a rather accurate steps/mm.
                              However, I hope this ratio is constant over the whole range, given the 3d printed gears and expected backlash...

                              dbemowskD Offline
                              dbemowskD Offline
                              dbemowsk
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #357

                              @yveaux as far as the backlash, i had already thought of that. I have 2 coupler nuts with a spring in between to handle the little bit of backlash that there is. I only had a thin spring though. I want to find a stronger one.

                              Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                              Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • sundberg84S sundberg84

                                0_1517069081859_IMG_20180127_170256.jpg

                                I'm building a wine rack for my wife in a celler room (currently 14 dgr with 4 dgr outside). I mowed my beer cooler temp node (rfm radio) to measure how much the temp changed over the day. I wrote a script in Lua/Domoticz that each time it changes 1dgr it should notify me. Apparently is a stable temp the most important to store wine.

                                All ideas how I can automate the shit out of this wine-room are appreciated.

                                • LCD display with temp/hum (both on the floor and celling) (Red needs apparently cooler than white wine... Or the opposite).

                                • I'm thinking about to try a passive cooler. A burried hose/pipe in a loop with a 12v fan/pump and temp. My idea is that if I rotate the 14dgr air in a say 20m pipe under ground it should cool the air some . This needs to be automated to keep the temp stable.

                                • light. Some sort of led strips.

                                bjacobseB Offline
                                bjacobseB Offline
                                bjacobse
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #358

                                @sundberg84
                                Redundancy, maybe you should get a second temp/humidity measurement device, just in case your current beer cooler temp node breaks down...

                                mfalkviddM 1 Reply Last reply
                                1
                                • bjacobseB bjacobse

                                  @sundberg84
                                  Redundancy, maybe you should get a second temp/humidity measurement device, just in case your current beer cooler temp node breaks down...

                                  mfalkviddM Online
                                  mfalkviddM Online
                                  mfalkvidd
                                  Mod
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #359

                                  @bjacobse or get redundant beer coolers :) Important to always have cool beer.

                                  bjacobseB dbemowskD 2 Replies Last reply
                                  3
                                  • mfalkviddM mfalkvidd

                                    @bjacobse or get redundant beer coolers :) Important to always have cool beer.

                                    bjacobseB Offline
                                    bjacobseB Offline
                                    bjacobse
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #360

                                    @mfalkvidd
                                    True but usually wines have a higher price and a more valuable - not starting a discussing/flame war what is best to drink...

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • mfalkviddM mfalkvidd

                                      @bjacobse or get redundant beer coolers :) Important to always have cool beer.

                                      dbemowskD Offline
                                      dbemowskD Offline
                                      dbemowsk
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #361

                                      @mfalkvidd Can't have too much redundancy there...

                                      Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                                      Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • NeverDieN Offline
                                        NeverDieN Offline
                                        NeverDie
                                        Hero Member
                                        wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                                        #362

                                        Made this 12 button keypad. Requires only one analog pin to read which button is pressed, and any button press can also wake an arduino from sleep:
                                        0_1517277256612_12keypad.jpg
                                        Consumes no power when no button is pressed.

                                        NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
                                        5
                                        • NeverDieN NeverDie

                                          Made this 12 button keypad. Requires only one analog pin to read which button is pressed, and any button press can also wake an arduino from sleep:
                                          0_1517277256612_12keypad.jpg
                                          Consumes no power when no button is pressed.

                                          NeverDieN Offline
                                          NeverDieN Offline
                                          NeverDie
                                          Hero Member
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #363

                                          Here's a thread which covers it in more detail: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/8936/6-8-buttons-battery-remote-node/36

                                          rozpruwaczR 1 Reply Last reply
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