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  1. Home
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  3. What did you build today (Pictures) ?

What did you build today (Pictures) ?

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  • sundberg84S Offline
    sundberg84S Offline
    sundberg84
    Hardware Contributor
    wrote on last edited by
    #928

    Updated my GW with the code @mfalkvidd provided to monitor OK and NACK

    a2a53f2e-6227-451f-baf6-bc2ed2d66111-image.png

    Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
    RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

    1 Reply Last reply
    4
    • nagelcN Offline
      nagelcN Offline
      nagelc
      wrote on last edited by
      #929

      I got tired of twisting DuPont cabels to get from different programmers to different boards.
      This is an adapter that lets me connect the programmers I commonly use (Jlink-mini, BMP, STLink clone) with the boards I commonly program with straight through wires. I left a couple unpopulated for future in and out.

      jlink_adapter.jpg

      1 Reply Last reply
      2
      • tbowmoT Offline
        tbowmoT Offline
        tbowmo
        Admin
        wrote on last edited by
        #930

        Finally I am starting to do a little electronics again.. First thing is a prototype assembly of RASLE (Rpi Arcade Sound and Light Extension). It's a custom made arduino "coprocessor" for a raspberry pi, built into retropie arcade cabinets. It's a joint project with a couple of friends that are building arcade cabinets (I built mine a couple of years ago, I think that there is pictures earlier in this thread).

        20200331_175528.jpg

        Features:

        • stereo 3W class-d amplifier
        • atmega328p
          • 3 pwm channels for LED strips
          • a port for WS2812 type led strips
          • pwm channel for fan
          • output for a relay to control mains input for the box (let the rpi shutdown cleanly, before disconnecting power)
          • 5 button inputs (shared between rpi and atmega)
        1 Reply Last reply
        2
        • franz-unixF Offline
          franz-unixF Offline
          franz-unix
          wrote on last edited by
          #931

          Hi, finished two nodes based on the same multi-purpose battery powered pcb (all the documentation here)

          One is a door / window sensor based on a Reed switch.

          20200223_175402.jpg 20200223_175502.jpg

          If someone is interested, the dedicated wiki page contains the detailed build instructions.

          The other is a soil moisture sensor.

          final-1.jpg cover.jpg

          For this one, the wiki page is here.

          Happy Easter, even if at home!

          1 Reply Last reply
          3
          • NeverDieN Offline
            NeverDieN Offline
            NeverDie
            Hero Member
            wrote on last edited by
            #932

            Anyone know or have experience with how well the underlying capacitive soil moisture sensors hold up over the long term? Clearly they're better than the cheap conductive electrode kind, which for most people don't last very long at all, but I recollect reading that water ultimately invades the PCB enough on even the capacitive designs that it goes kaput. Maybe they've been improved since then or maybe there are now known tricks for how to fortify them against that happening?

            franz-unixF BearWithBeardB berkseoB A 4 Replies Last reply
            0
            • NeverDieN NeverDie

              Anyone know or have experience with how well the underlying capacitive soil moisture sensors hold up over the long term? Clearly they're better than the cheap conductive electrode kind, which for most people don't last very long at all, but I recollect reading that water ultimately invades the PCB enough on even the capacitive designs that it goes kaput. Maybe they've been improved since then or maybe there are now known tricks for how to fortify them against that happening?

              franz-unixF Offline
              franz-unixF Offline
              franz-unix
              wrote on last edited by franz-unix
              #933

              @NeverDie Good question. My is too young (2 days) to say something.

              Here a possible solution. See at about 9:50

              1 Reply Last reply
              1
              • NeverDieN NeverDie

                Anyone know or have experience with how well the underlying capacitive soil moisture sensors hold up over the long term? Clearly they're better than the cheap conductive electrode kind, which for most people don't last very long at all, but I recollect reading that water ultimately invades the PCB enough on even the capacitive designs that it goes kaput. Maybe they've been improved since then or maybe there are now known tricks for how to fortify them against that happening?

                BearWithBeardB Offline
                BearWithBeardB Offline
                BearWithBeard
                wrote on last edited by BearWithBeard
                #934

                @NeverDie The guy with the swiss accent once said that you can coat the capacitive soil moisture sensors with a water resistant varnish or put it inside a waterproof shell.

                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udmJyncDvw0
                starting at ~7 mins.

                @franz-unix Ha, Great minds think alike. :D

                franz-unixF YveauxY 2 Replies Last reply
                2
                • BearWithBeardB BearWithBeard

                  @NeverDie The guy with the swiss accent once said that you can coat the capacitive soil moisture sensors with a water resistant varnish or put it inside a waterproof shell.

                  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udmJyncDvw0
                  starting at ~7 mins.

                  @franz-unix Ha, Great minds think alike. :D

                  franz-unixF Offline
                  franz-unixF Offline
                  franz-unix
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #935

                  @BearWithBeard :+1: :grin: I love the video of the swiss guy!

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  1
                  • BearWithBeardB BearWithBeard

                    @NeverDie The guy with the swiss accent once said that you can coat the capacitive soil moisture sensors with a water resistant varnish or put it inside a waterproof shell.

                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udmJyncDvw0
                    starting at ~7 mins.

                    @franz-unix Ha, Great minds think alike. :D

                    YveauxY Offline
                    YveauxY Offline
                    Yveaux
                    Mod
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #936

                    @BearWithBeard ah, now I know who 'the guy with the Swiss accent' is :)

                    http://yveaux.blogspot.nl

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • sundberg84S Offline
                      sundberg84S Offline
                      sundberg84
                      Hardware Contributor
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #937

                      Today I have a very strange problem. I have created a new outdoor sensor which is powered by a 240v-5v HLK module. Its working VERY intermittent and should send data every 5 minutes (no exceptions).

                      Whats even more strange is that, when my outside node (called multi) is working, I have a battery powered node (sleep 15 min - send - sleep) that seems to go down, and the other way around (not always, but quite frequent - could be very unrelated but I have notised it a couple of times now).
                      58a6f282-5b04-4bbc-90f4-6b0f0af37261-image.png

                      Anyhow, Im very glad i build my logger node - works great once more. I use this so often and really recommend all with a bigger network to have some sort of mobile debugger. Most of the times I use the bluetooth module (2xAA powered) but at this point I have my node on my workbench powered by a USB adapter (orange wires). I then parasite power from the node to run the debugger and is now logging everything to a sd-card.

                      503d3040-7208-4e95-a6cc-cb3128d24c17-image.png

                      Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                      RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      2
                      • mfalkviddM Offline
                        mfalkviddM Offline
                        mfalkvidd
                        Mod
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #938

                        In case anyone hasn't seen the logger before, it is available at https://www.openhardware.io/view/532/The-Logger-Machine-Short-and-long-term-serial-logging

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        2
                        • sundberg84S Offline
                          sundberg84S Offline
                          sundberg84
                          Hardware Contributor
                          wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                          #939

                          Another picture from today:
                          cd572dd2-1092-478e-bb59-6200ef28ad7a-image.png

                          Just started working with coincells - CR2032 to be exact. Anyone knows why the battery % varies with the given temperature? Are those coincells very temp. dependent or I have made a misstake somewhere... ???

                          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                          Nca78N YveauxY 2 Replies Last reply
                          0
                          • sundberg84S sundberg84

                            Another picture from today:
                            cd572dd2-1092-478e-bb59-6200ef28ad7a-image.png

                            Just started working with coincells - CR2032 to be exact. Anyone knows why the battery % varies with the given temperature? Are those coincells very temp. dependent or I have made a misstake somewhere... ???

                            Nca78N Offline
                            Nca78N Offline
                            Nca78
                            Hardware Contributor
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #940

                            @sundberg84 said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

                            Anyone knows why the battery % varies with the given temperature

                            They don't like it when it's too cold. Check page 4 :
                            https://data.energizer.com/pdfs/lithiumcoin_appman.pdf

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • sundberg84S sundberg84

                              Another picture from today:
                              cd572dd2-1092-478e-bb59-6200ef28ad7a-image.png

                              Just started working with coincells - CR2032 to be exact. Anyone knows why the battery % varies with the given temperature? Are those coincells very temp. dependent or I have made a misstake somewhere... ???

                              YveauxY Offline
                              YveauxY Offline
                              Yveaux
                              Mod
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #941

                              @sundberg84 looks like you can ditch the temperarure sensor and just use the battery voltage to measure the temperature :muscle:

                              http://yveaux.blogspot.nl

                              sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                              3
                              • C Offline
                                C Offline
                                cloolalang
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #942

                                20200422_132110_resized.jpg

                                433 MHz ESP 32 MQTT Gateway with proper antenna

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                3
                                • YveauxY Yveaux

                                  @sundberg84 looks like you can ditch the temperarure sensor and just use the battery voltage to measure the temperature :muscle:

                                  sundberg84S Offline
                                  sundberg84S Offline
                                  sundberg84
                                  Hardware Contributor
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #943

                                  @Nca78 - Well, its been around 14-17dgr C today, so almost room temp. Strange
                                  @Yveaux - hahaha, best answer! Saving uA!

                                  Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                  RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • NeverDieN NeverDie

                                    Yesterday received the PCB. Today assembled for testing this battery-powered nRF52-based passive infrared motion detector:
                                    0_1511459187973_PIR_02.jpg

                                    I Offline
                                    I Offline
                                    idanronen
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #944

                                    @NeverDie sorry if it's a bit off topic, but I see that 10 pin ARM box connector you use in several of your designs, and I was wondering if it offers anything extra in addition to the regular 6 pin programming pins. I'm asking specifically because I want to try some of your nrf52832 designs, but would like to avoid spending extra money on special connectors and cables. Thanks!

                                    NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • I idanronen

                                      @NeverDie sorry if it's a bit off topic, but I see that 10 pin ARM box connector you use in several of your designs, and I was wondering if it offers anything extra in addition to the regular 6 pin programming pins. I'm asking specifically because I want to try some of your nrf52832 designs, but would like to avoid spending extra money on special connectors and cables. Thanks!

                                      NeverDieN Offline
                                      NeverDieN Offline
                                      NeverDie
                                      Hero Member
                                      wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                                      #945

                                      @idanronen No, nothing extra. It just conveniently and transparently interfaces to the ribbon adapter cable used by the Nordic nrf52 dev kits for programming external nRF52 MCU's. If you want to roll-your-own, you can do away with most of the pins. I myself migrated to a smaller connector in later designs.

                                      I 1 Reply Last reply
                                      1
                                      • NeverDieN NeverDie

                                        @idanronen No, nothing extra. It just conveniently and transparently interfaces to the ribbon adapter cable used by the Nordic nrf52 dev kits for programming external nRF52 MCU's. If you want to roll-your-own, you can do away with most of the pins. I myself migrated to a smaller connector in later designs.

                                        I Offline
                                        I Offline
                                        idanronen
                                        wrote on last edited by idanronen
                                        #946

                                        @NeverDie thanks for clarifying!
                                        So for example in the mini breakout board (https://www.openhardware.io/view/471/Ebyte-nRF52832-Small-Breakout-Board) I could just align the 6 pads and use a standard 6 pin pogo programmer right?

                                        NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • I idanronen

                                          @NeverDie thanks for clarifying!
                                          So for example in the mini breakout board (https://www.openhardware.io/view/471/Ebyte-nRF52832-Small-Breakout-Board) I could just align the 6 pads and use a standard 6 pin pogo programmer right?

                                          NeverDieN Offline
                                          NeverDieN Offline
                                          NeverDie
                                          Hero Member
                                          wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                                          #947

                                          @idanronen Yup. If you have more questions, you should probably ask them on a different thread than this one, as it's off topic here.

                                          1 Reply Last reply
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