@Amput said in Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors:

Could anyone explain me, why position (polarity) of condensers 4.7uF on REV 8(blue) and REV 9 (red) are different?

It's a bug in v8 fixed in v9, so v9 is correct, see link this post

What about to use PTFE (teflon) tape to protect the sensor board, see this project. It seems, characteristics of the material (PTFE) enables it to use it for this purpose, it is mentioned also link text here

@Matt said:

Hey I recently got a batch of ten pro 3.3v pro minis from ebay, I removed vreg + LED on two of them and they no longer work... Well, I cant upload.

Did you try to use side pins for Vcc/Gnd connections from usb-ttl adapter? It is known for some clones that Vcc/Gnd pins on programming header do not work after regulator and led are removed and side pins must be used for uploading sketch...

@sundberg84 - ok thanks, it makes sense ;). I was asking because I connected your Dimmable Led Strip daughterboard via MysX to this Easy PCB. Dimmer daughterboard is providing 5V on PIN3 (when LM2940CT voltage regulator is used on it). This would bring 5V to output of voltage regulator on Easy PCB so I disconnected PIN3 connection between dimmer daughterboard and Easy PCB. I connected PIN3 from dimmer board by wire to >3.3V power input of Easy PCB instead. Other option I'm thinking of would be not using voltage regulator on dimmer daughterboard at all but use its 12V raw voltage provided by dimmer board via MysX PIN1 (+ raw jumper on Easy PSB) and use voltage regulator (LE33) on Easy PCB only.

Hi @sundberg84, on Easy/Newbie PCB rfm69 version PIN3 of MysX connector is connected to 3.3V resp. to the output from voltage regulator. When I compare with Easy/Newbie PCB nrf24l01 version, MysX PIN3 is connected to input of voltage regulator (to 5V). Is this a mistake in design of Easy/PCB rfm69 version?

@Pete357 said in Safe In-Wall AC to DC Transformers??:

Please can somebody more experienced with HLKs recommend really reliable source where to buy the right modules?

To be sure you get genuine module buy it directly from the vendor:
http://www.hlktech.net/product.php?CateId=10

What about to use PTFE (teflon) tape to protect the sensor board, see this project. It seems, characteristics of the material (PTFE) enables it to use it for this purpose, it is mentioned also link text here

@alowhum - thanks for your code! I was just seeking for ideas for such non-blocking sensor code and found this. I saw only a little cosmetic problem with formatting of message printed on serial line (space missing) but technically all seems to be working fine (tested for sensor powered by PSU, not battery) . It saved my time!

Hi all,

Just by looking at previously mentioned link at Skippy's blog about Quick look at the hlk-pm01 I found he has recently posted next part - Revisiting the hlk-pm01. I think it is worth to read, dealing with resp. how to improve conducted emission of hlk-pm01.

Also there is a some recommendation to use VIGORTRONIX VTX-214-005-105 AC/DC PCB Mount Power Supply (Farnell #2401040). Not sure if someone is already using it in his projects.

@martins - you can use NRF2RFM69 if you want to use RFM69 with Newbie PCB board. I'm using it too, works fine with 3.3V arduino. For 5V arduino you will need to add level logic converter too.

@Amput said in Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors:

Could anyone explain me, why position (polarity) of condensers 4.7uF on REV 8(blue) and REV 9 (red) are different?

It's a bug in v8 fixed in v9, so v9 is correct, see link this post

@Matt said:

Hey I recently got a batch of ten pro 3.3v pro minis from ebay, I removed vreg + LED on two of them and they no longer work... Well, I cant upload.

Did you try to use side pins for Vcc/Gnd connections from usb-ttl adapter? It is known for some clones that Vcc/Gnd pins on programming header do not work after regulator and led are removed and side pins must be used for uploading sketch...