I started out with NRF 2.4 MHz radios for my 8 nodes MySensors and Domoticz. As I also install WiFi networks for customers and have access to our equipment at work I did a measurement at home because I could not get a reliable network.
First measurement revealed that my DECT wireless phone occupied the same channel that was the default for the NRF radios. And that my neighbors run their WiFi occupying all other channels. Equipment used was Ekahau.
I tried to tweak the channels but no avail.
So, I bought new radios, RFM833, and that was the end of my troubles. For two year now my eight nodes have not skipped a beat. I measure temperature, humidity, light (lux), UV and radioactivity.

And all my WiFi at home is at 5GHz as the 2.4 was exhausted.
I have about 40 NRF radios in a box with no use for them.

The code that you posted:
send(msg.set(value==HIGH ? 1 : 0))
Translates to this
If ”value” is HIGH (true) then send 1, if not send 0

It has nothing to do with PIN 0 or 1

The same goes for
digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN_1, loadState(CHILD_ID_RELAY1)?RELAY_ON:RELAY_OFF);
It translates to
On RELAY_PIN_1, if it’s state is 1 write HIGH to RELAY_PIN_1 else write LOW.

If you use serial in your sketch you can’t use PIN 0 or 1 as those pins are TX and RX.

Be aware that most of the cheap NRF boards from China are counterfeit. If you have those in an environment with a lot of WiFi you won’t get any range at all. And all “modifications” to improve range posted on YouTube are not any improvement.
You need to buy real NRF modules with external antenna.
Just my two cents.

I bought 20 of the Rev 10 Easy PCB boards from Openhardware, but could not get them to work with the flash memory.
See thread here: Bug in Easy PCB
So I just bite the dust and forgot about them. Until a couple of days ago when I decided to see if I could get them to work.
I modified the PCB and got them to work.

1. The unmodified board
2. Cut line between pin 7 and the capacitor and scrape of at the right of the C7.
3. Solder the capacitor, solder a blob from the capacitor to the scraping.
4. Solder a blob between pin 7 and 8 on the flash chip
5. Solder a piece of wire between pin 6 of the flash chip and pin 13 of the Arduino.

I then started to try to flash the Sensebender OTA firmware to my Arduinos. It was a No Go, I had tons of trouble until I decided to change the Arduino to another version that I had.
Sad to say, all Funduino Mini pro's that I have are all faulty.
I had some other Mini pro that was marked Deek-Robot, those worked like a charm.
I did some testing yesterday and was able to flash new firmware via OTA and MYSController.
More about that in an another thread as I found some quirks in the process of doing OTA.

@rodaman if you have bought real NRF modules you have been satisfied.
Or if you have bought RFM 433, 833 or 915 MHz radios you had been more that pleased.
Not MySensors fault.

I do, really easy to setup. I have decided to only show the temperatures and battery status when battery level is low.

I am using this:

// Bosch BME280 Embedded Adventures MOD-1022 weather multi-sensor Arduino code, 
// written originally by Embedded Adventures. 
// https://github.com/embeddedadventures/BME280
#include <BME280_MOD-1022.h>```

Change

lecture_adc = BAR_SENSOR_ANALOG_PIN;

To

lecture_adc = analogRead(BAR_SENSOR_ANALOG_PIN);

// Debug
#define MY_DEBUG
// Enable and select radio type attached
#define   MY_RADIO_RFM69
#define   MY_IS_RFM69HW
#define   MY_RFM69_NEW_DRIVER
#define   MY_RFM69_FREQUENCY RFM69_868MHZ
// #define   MY_RFM69_ENABLE_ENCRYPTION

#include <MySensors.h>

#define SKETCH_NAME    "Test-text"
#define SKETCH_VERSION "1.0"

#define CHILD_ID_RSSI_INFO  1

// Mysensors settings
MyMessage msgRSSI(CHILD_ID_RSSI_INFO, V_TEXT);

void before()
{
}

void setup()
{
  Serial.begin(115200); // for serial debugging.
  Serial.println(F("Start up sensor."));
}

void presentation()
{
  present(CHILD_ID_RSSI_INFO, S_INFO, "RSSI Info");
}

void loop()
{
#ifdef MY_DEBUG
  Serial.println(F("Starting new measurements"));
#endif
  CheckRSSI();
  // Sleep 
#ifdef MY_DEBUG
  Serial.println(F("Waiting 1 minute"));
#endif
  wait(60000);
}

Hi,
I am interested, and I live in Malmo Sweden :-)

Yes, and I am very pleased with it.

If I don’t use the booster and connect both BAT and REG and feed the board with two AA batteries i can use the battery components to measure the voltage of the battery. That is how I use it today.

THANKS!!
That did it:

RSSI String: T: 127 R:-49 PL:-2 PP:0
TSF:MSG:SEND,13-13-0-0,s=1,c=1,t=47,pt=0,l=23,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:T: 127 R:-49 PL:-2 PP:0

Print with a rim. There is a tickbox for it.

@sundberg84 said in 💬 Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors:

Why dont you use the internal library to measure the battery voltage? Im thinking about this and can't find a reason to move the voltage divider since without the booster you could just use the internalref and a library to measure the voltage?

Good point, I have not thought of that. I will test it it. And will probably save some uA in the process. Thanks,

PLease, DON’T write to eeprom in the loop(), you will destroy the eeprom. The lifecycle for the eeprom is 100000 writes/read, after that it is destroyed.
info about eeprom writes at arduino

EDIT: With the current code (write to eeprom every second) the eeprom will be destroyed after aprox 69 days.

I bought Buildtak that I replaced the bed with. I don’t use glue. I did print out a couple of calibration figures that I downloaded from Thingiverse. After a couple of re-calibrations and printing with the calibration figures I have not touched the calibration again.
However, when I printed the MySensors box from Thingiverse the corners still lifted.
That was when I found the suggestion to print with a rim.
Now my prints never lift.
I also clean the bed after each print with IPA.

I have just finished soldering my last four easypcb with BME280:

Yes, you can use the pictures. If you need better pictues I can provide it to you.

I just checked my batch of Rev 10, random check of the batch checked out OK. I have 20 boards.