I started out with NRF 2.4 MHz radios for my 8 nodes MySensors and Domoticz. As I also install WiFi networks for customers and have access to our equipment at work I did a measurement at home because I could not get a reliable network.
First measurement revealed that my DECT wireless phone occupied the same channel that was the default for the NRF radios. And that my neighbors run their WiFi occupying all other channels. Equipment used was Ekahau.
I tried to tweak the channels but no avail.
So, I bought new radios, RFM833, and that was the end of my troubles. For two year now my eight nodes have not skipped a beat. I measure temperature, humidity, light (lux), UV and radioactivity.

And all my WiFi at home is at 5GHz as the 2.4 was exhausted.
I have about 40 NRF radios in a box with no use for them.

@rodaman if you have bought real NRF modules you have been satisfied.
Or if you have bought RFM 433, 833 or 915 MHz radios you had been more that pleased.
Not MySensors fault.

Be aware that most of the cheap NRF boards from China are counterfeit. If you have those in an environment with a lot of WiFi you won’t get any range at all. And all “modifications” to improve range posted on YouTube are not any improvement.
You need to buy real NRF modules with external antenna.
Just my two cents.

I do, really easy to setup. I have decided to only show the temperatures and battery status when battery level is low.

@sundberg84 if you look at the schematic you have connected MySX pin 10 to D2, but according to the spec for the MySX 2.4 it should go to D4.

I have now checked the PCB, and you are right @JPM
Pin 6 of the flash chip is not connected at all. No wonder I could not get that to work. Strangely is that the schematic is OK.
Thanks for finding this, I will modify my boards to get them working.

I checked the schematic, and:
First mistake: Seems that the schematic is OK, the label for SCK (pin 6) is connected to physical pin 16 which is PCINT13 on the Arduino,
Second mistake: that is a bug, filter capacitor is not connected correctly.
Third mistake: That is also a bug, pin 7 and 3 should be connected to VCC
Now I am going to check the PCB, be back shortly,

I just checked my batch of Rev 10, random check of the batch checked out OK. I have 20 boards.

@dbemowsk the Flashforge Finder dont have a heatbed and only uses PLA. And if you dont clean the bed with IPA it will lift. I always print with brim just to be sure.

Just do a regular calibration. Just hand tight the knobs, no force needed. Then start the calibration. Slowly rotate the knob until it the printer beeps. When the calibration is done. Print one of these that fits the bed thingiverse calibration
Carefully check the result. You should have a consistent print. If not, twist the knob closest to where you need to move re-calibrate. Thin line, the bed need to be closer to the nozzle, thick line that curls, move the bed away.
Note, when turning the knobs, just move it 1/4th turn each time. And make a note wich knob, the direction (clock wise or counter clock wise).

To get more info, search on youtube for flash forge finder calibration, there are a lot of videos there.