just received 1st test unit. very nice quality. now i need to find / make a case for it. @berkseo, do you happen to have a case design yet?

Hey there, I've successfully converted just about everything in my house to with zwave sensors or homebrewed mysensors modules for lighting / temp hum, motions, etc.

The trouble I've been having is sourcing /building a multi button remote.

It's either go with a very expensive and at times not the most functional /attractive zwave device or build a clunky diy multi button MyS module that is just to large to be practical.

Has anyone taken the plunge to build a small battery powered multi button sensor? Seems the challenge is using a button array to wake the module with the single interrupt. I've been starting to dig into potentially using an i2c module but then size starts becoming an issue. I've been keeping my eye on a few projects in the open hardware group, but are still a little too hacked together. Smd soldering is easy but unfortunately I don't have the time to learn how to build a pcb from scratch.

How difficult is it to build an i2c io multiplexer? Ideally we have someone with better eagle skills than mine (close to none) that can combine emccubes mysgrowled sensor and a i2c multiplexer onto a single board

I feel this is one area we need to focus on more to make this project whole.

Anyone have projects or ideas they can throw my way. I'm going to be doing some serious digging later this year to try and make something useful to the community

scratch that. i'm a ditz, apparently. i had the LEDs wired up the wrong way. i had the positive wire of the LED wired to the LED port on the board. i switched the negative was wired to the LED port on the pcb and voila! LED's work.

now i'll need to tinker more and play with fan PWM and other outputs on it.

Thanks for being a sounding board!

bummer.

is the pro mini always output 3.3v on the pins? even if i switch in arduino IDE to 5V 16mHz?

@rchamp i also noticed on the MOSFET mentioned (IRLZ44N) and the one i'm using (L7812CV) that the drain is in the middle, not the far side, but the wiring schematic shows ground on the far side, not the middle.

am i missing something? i have 2 boards wired up. one with default pins, and one where i've switched the drain and the source to match the PCB. however it seems as the 3.3v coming from pin 5 isn't enough to trigger the switch. any ideas and clarifications would be helpful. i'm still very green to microelectronics

Hi there, just wired up my first one. i am very interested in this PCB as the form factor is quite nice.

however, i'm running into an issue with the MOSFET not firing. i checked voltage to the gate and i'm transmitting 3.3v. i think that isn't enough to activate the switch. has this been the case for you or others?

I'm in the 2.0 code. I'll have to play around some more and do some tests over the next few weeks. I like using the intermediary modules to generate a binary alert vs doing the analog reads. Seems faster to calibrate based on the moisture levels I need for different plants. However, the battery drain of those modules is crazy.

I'll do some current measements aND report back. If the consumption is too high for the pro mini digital out, I reckon I can use a mosfet to control power to the modules and power it on and wait a little before getting my reads. I think that will be the fastest solution and least path of resistance (no pun intended) :)

Hi there,

I just recently built a battery powered moisture sensor with 2 of the sensors posted on the site.

Detection is quite accurate and I didn't need to tweak much. However, I noticed they draw quite a bit of power even with removing the leds.

Anyone have ideas how I can modify my code to leverage powering them using digital out pins vs vcc to turn them on after sleep and off before going to sleep? Currently 2 AA batteties will only last a week with the APM sleeping at 15 min intervals? I need to check to see if the APM can handle the current of each sensor. Haven't hooked up the multimeter to test draw quite yet but and looking for ideas.
Many thanks

@korttoma

thsnk you for the input. how does the interface look in vera? I'm not too clear on using the V_var options. I do like doing this through a single sensor vs trying to use different.

I think my biggest problem right now is understanding how to write the code to understand the differences of the messages coming in from vera/the myS gateway

Hi there, i created a very crude sensor that connected to a strip of neopixels. i have it simply fade to white when the light is pressed on and fade to black (off) when pressed off in vera.

However, i've tried to now create some more "relays" as switches to allow me to trigger different light effects/modes, but i don't know how to create a switch, or case to check "when relay 1 on, color mode 1, relay2 on color 2, etc" It always reads a general 1 or 0, regardless of which light send the command from vera.

Any ideas on how i can change the code in the receive function to listen to each switch(relay) and then trigger a different condition from there?

below is my code

/**
 * The MySensors Arduino library handles the wireless radio link and protocol
 * between your home built sensors/actuators and HA controller of choice.
 * The sensors forms a self healing radio network with optional repeaters. Each
 * repeater and gateway builds a routing tables in EEPROM which keeps track of the
 * network topology allowing messages to be routed to nodes.
 *
 * Created by Henrik Ekblad <henrik.ekblad@mysensors.org>
 * Copyright (C) 2013-2015 Sensnology AB
 * Full contributor list: https://github.com/mysensors/Arduino/graphs/contributors
 *
 * Documentation: http://www.mysensors.org
 * Support Forum: http://forum.mysensors.org
 *
 * This program is free software; you can redistribute it and/or
 * modify it under the terms of the GNU General Public License
 * version 2 as published by the Free Software Foundation.
 *
 *******************************
 *
 * REVISION HISTORY
 * Version 1.0 - Henrik Ekblad
 * 
 * DESCRIPTION
 * Example sketch showing how to control physical relays. 
 * This example will remember relay state after power failure.
 * http://www.mysensors.org/build/relay
 */ 

// Enable debug prints to serial monitor
#define MY_DEBUG 

// Enable and select radio type attached
#define MY_RADIO_NRF24
//#define MY_RADIO_RFM69

#define MY_NODE_ID 12

// Enable repeater functionality for this node
#define MY_REPEATER_FEATURE

#include <SPI.h>
#include <MySensors.h>
#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>

#define LED_PIN 5
#define RELAY_1  1  // Arduino Digital I/O pin number for first relay (second on pin+1 etc)
#define NUMBER_OF_RELAYS 4 // Total number of attached relays
#define RELAY_ON 1  // GPIO value to write to turn on attached relay
#define RELAY_OFF 0 // GPIO value to write to turn off attached relay

#define NUM_LEDS 60 //60 for full cabinet set
#define ledFadeTime 5
#define BRIGHTNESS 100

Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(NUM_LEDS, LED_PIN, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);

int gamma[] = {
    0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,
    0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  0,  1,  1,  1,  1,
    1,  1,  1,  1,  1,  1,  1,  1,  1,  2,  2,  2,  2,  2,  2,  2,
    2,  3,  3,  3,  3,  3,  3,  3,  4,  4,  4,  4,  4,  5,  5,  5,
    5,  6,  6,  6,  6,  7,  7,  7,  7,  8,  8,  8,  9,  9,  9, 10,
   10, 10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16,
   17, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20, 20, 21, 21, 22, 22, 23, 24, 24, 25,
   25, 26, 27, 27, 28, 29, 29, 30, 31, 32, 32, 33, 34, 35, 35, 36,
   37, 38, 39, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 50,
   51, 52, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 66, 67, 68,
   69, 70, 72, 73, 74, 75, 77, 78, 79, 81, 82, 83, 85, 86, 87, 89,
   90, 92, 93, 95, 96, 98, 99,101,102,104,105,107,109,110,112,114,
  115,117,119,120,122,124,126,127,129,131,133,135,137,138,140,142,
  144,146,148,150,152,154,156,158,160,162,164,167,169,171,173,175,
  177,180,182,184,186,189,191,193,196,198,200,203,205,208,210,213,
  215,218,220,223,225,228,231,233,236,239,241,244,247,249,252,255 };


void before() { 
  for (int sensor=1, pin=RELAY_1; sensor<=NUMBER_OF_RELAYS;sensor++, pin++) {
    
    // Set relay to last known state (using eeprom storage) 
    digitalWrite(pin, loadState(sensor)?RELAY_ON:RELAY_OFF);
  }
}

void setup() {
  strip.setBrightness(BRIGHTNESS);
  strip.begin();
  strip.show(); // Initialize all pixels to 'off'
}

void presentation()  
{   
  // Send the sketch version information to the gateway and Controller
  sendSketchInfo("Kitchen Island Lights", "1.0");

  for (int sensor=1, pin=RELAY_1; sensor<=NUMBER_OF_RELAYS;sensor++, pin++) {
    // Register all sensors to gw (they will be created as child devices)
    present(sensor, S_LIGHT);
  }
}


void loop() 
{
  
}

void receive(const MyMessage &message) {
  // We only expect one type of message from controller. But we better check anyway.
  if (message.type==V_LIGHT) {
     // Change relay state
     digitalWrite(message.sensor-1+RELAY_1, message.getBool()?RELAY_ON:RELAY_OFF);
     // Store state in eeprom
     saveState(message.sensor, message.getBool());
     // Write some debug info
     Serial.print("Incoming change for sensor:");
     Serial.print(message.sensor);
     Serial.print(", New status: ");
     Serial.println(message.getBool());
     int showState = message.getBool();
     Serial.print("Newstate variable data:");
     Serial.println(showState);
     if (showState==1) {
        //rgbFadeIn(255, 255, 255, ledFadeTime); // White
        rgbFadeIn(255, 255, 255, ledFadeTime); // orange 
           
      //colorWipe(strip.Color(255, 255, 255), 50);    // White
     }else{
      rgbFadeOut(255,255,255,ledFadeTime);
      //colorWipe(strip.Color(0, 0, 0), 50);    // Black/off
     }
     
   } 
}


// Fill the dots one after the other with a color
void colorWipe(uint32_t c, uint8_t wait) {
  for(uint16_t i=0; i<strip.numPixels(); i++) {
    strip.setPixelColor(i, c);
    strip.show();
    delay(wait);
  }
}

void rgbFadeIn(uint8_t red, uint8_t green, uint8_t blue, uint8_t wait) {
  for(uint8_t b = 0; b <255; b++) {
     for(uint8_t i=0; i < strip.numPixels(); i++) {
        strip.setPixelColor(i, red * b/255, green * b/255, blue * b/255);
     }
     strip.show();
     //delay(wait);
  }
}
void rgbFadeOut(uint8_t red, uint8_t green, uint8_t blue, uint8_t wait) {
  for(uint8_t b=255; b > 0; b--) {
     for(uint8_t i = 0; i < strip.numPixels(); i++) {
        strip.setPixelColor(i, red * b/255, green * b/255, blue * b/255);
     }
     strip.show();
     //delay(wait);
  }
}

@rchamp

Only issue I've have was with resistor to D3 which I don't use. My first board I put a resistor there and when doing a trace noticed I was constantly getting regulated 3.3v and it fried my dht11. Might Have been I interpreed the purpose of it wrong as I am new to electrical engineering, but I digress. I just power the dht of of vcc and gnd in prototype area and wire sensor outpUT directly to D3 breakout. No resistor.

My biggest challenge is finding/building quality quick connects for quick changes and mods /addons. I've reverted to Barrel connectors as they're easily available and can get pigtail versions and panel mount Versons easily

@sundberg84

I agree with sundberg84 here. Would it be nice to have those other features? Sure, but then you're limited to what else you can do. This is a GREAT board for many/most sensors around the house. And in regards to light or temp/hum, in my experience it's better to have these detached and in better location for detection while keeping "main" board. more out of sight.

I'll post up some pics of my builds for ideas, but I've built sensors with temp/hum, temp/hum/motion (both battery powered running for over 7 months) and my latest a Neopixel multi strip driver for kitchen cabinets using 5v regulated power. And I haven't had any issues with the cheap through hole ceramic caps for .10uf or the electrolytic caps for 4.7 or 10uf sizes on this board

Hey There, I'm getting ready to play around with this once a few more parts arrive to give me ideas on other potential uses for distance sensor and LEDs, but one thing i'm confused about.

The sketch mentioned using pins 4, 5 and 6.

Adafruit and all docs i've seen and played around with mention that neopixels need a PWM pin to operate.

Pin 4 doesn't appear to be PWM (on pro mini)

I see that trig and echo are typically wired to 5 & 6 in most cases which are PWM.
so in short, not enough PWM pins .

Are the neopixels still working because the signal is being sent at "full" brightness?

@sundberg84
awesome thanks!

:+1:

Note. i left the plugin in place, and was able to enroll the node after some time.

I have a feeling it just took Vera / plugin longer than I expected to detect the USB serial connection to the GW.

node ID's seem to come in fine and libversion displays as 2.0.0 for the node. the 2 nodes (+ the updated GW) all appear to be running stable. if i run into another issue i will go for the development branch for the plugin

understood. i just happened to already have these as 'extras', so i figured i'd build a node and give it a whirl.

I'll definitely do some more research on @ceech his postings.

thx for the insight

Just wanted to say great work on this board. I have the first one wired up w/ batteries, 3.3v APM w/led and regulations removed, voltage regulator, dht11 and motion w 3v mod and works wonderfully. Once I get my caliper in, I'll get the right mounting screws, finish my enclosure and post the pics.

what is the size of the mounting holes? i don't have a caliper yet to measure this small of a size (ordering on amazon)

here is the battery pack and solar panel.

6700mAh portable charger
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y2PX4U2/ref=twister_B01E6NLNMU?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

15W Solar charger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DIP5RBA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1