Event scripting (lua? really?) needs more advanced features.
You should check out dzVents which makes LUA-scripting much more powerful and even simpler.
@Sergio-Rius Thanks man! I will definitely take a closer look. I just one silly last question....
Trying to use a simple DS18B20 temperature sensor, and I get the following error:
error: 'SENSOR_DS18B20' was not declared in this scope
Seems like it doesn't like me declaring it. I have installed Dallas Temperature and One Wire through Arduino libraries.
Ah, thanks! I have actually seen that video ages ago
I was wondering about what I need for parts in the case of resistors etc.
I've been looking into making my own lab bench power supply out of the PSU of an old computer. I've seen a lot of videos on YouTube, but I just wanted to make a thread about it here just in case someone has already done it and can share some experiences.
The idea came after I figured out it could be nice to easily switch between 3.3, 5 and 12 V power when testing out my Arduino components.
Would be awesome if you made a fritz sketch of this
However I experience some strange values when connecting Arduino directly to the battery. The power to the LED not 0 volts (as it is when powering Arduino and radio from FTDI programmer), but 2.8 volts. And around 3 volts when pressing the doorbell button. I can't quite figure out why it acts like this. Not only that, but the digital pin connected to the anode side of the LED gives power to the Arduino itself.. Even when I disconnect VCC/Ground on the Arduino from the batteries, the Arduino gets power through the digital pin. I didn't even know that was possible.
Not sure what doorbell type it is, but it's a cheap one bought at my local supermarket.
I am experiencing issues with the NRF24 radio module when powering the Pro Mini off a step-up regulator, stepping up from two 1.5 volts batteries to 3.3 volts. When I connect the Pro Mini to an FTDI programmer everything works as normal.
A while ago I read that regulators created an electromagnetic field that could cause interference with the radio module. My tests seems to confirm this.
Is there some way I could eliminate , limit or somehow "enclose" the electromagnetic field generated by the regulator?
Thanks @gohan it works perfectly using a digital pin and the door sensor example.
I have a very simple wireless doorbell in my house, and I was thinking of making it notify me when someone rings in Domoticz.
I have minimal with electronic components, but I do have the basics with resistors, wires, NRF24 etc.
What I found out, is that when the doorbell button is clicked, it sends a wireless signal to the other unit, containing the speaker. This unit has a LED that lights up when it receives a signal, aka when someone rings the bell.
I was thinking of connecting the Arduino to this LED, detecting when the LED is turned on. I connected the cathode on the LED to ground on the Pro Mini, and the LED's anode to an analog pin on the Pro Mini. Now I can read values around ~740 in standby mode, and around ~860 when the LED lights up.
Is this a basic and "fail safe" method to check for power? Or is it varying too much? I want to use the door magnet sensor example to detect the doorbell, but not sure if I should use the Bounce library with analog signals.
Thanks in advance!
@gohan Ah, yes of course. I feel stupid...
Thank you so much for your help. I will definitely look into Sonoff as well.....
@gohan Thanks for your help, it sure would have been easier to just buy a Sonoff, but I wouldn't learn as much
Were you thinking of something like this? (Don't mind me using a LED in replacement of a lamp).
I am trying to build a relay actuator similar to this, however I have some trouble with figuring how to connect the 230 V power correctly.
My project is run on a 5 V Arduino, with a 230 V to 5 V step down regulator. Everything is soldered on a prototype board. I have also solderen on a 3.3 V step down regulator and a NRF24L01 radio. The thought behind this project is to remote control ceiling lighting.
This is how it looks like now:
What I need help to figure out, is how to connect the 230 V to both the 5 V step down regulator AND the relay without breaking the power circuit to the Arduino when the relay turns off. I've seen projects like this before, but it seems like most of the projects only are USB powered.
All comments are welcome!
@mfalkvidd Thanks for the quick answer! I also read on the page for battery powered sensors that the step up generates alot of noise that can interfere with the radio, and that a solution might be to add capacitators (which I already tried), but also powering the radio directly from batteries. I'll try that later today. Thanks!
And thank you for the link to the troubleshooting. It's now bookmarked!
Thanks for this great solution @mfalkvidd! It works great when my Arduino Pro Mini is connected to the computer, but not when I try to run it off a battery pack.
I have a Pro Mini 3.3v connected to a 0.8-3.3v step up from a battery pack (2xAA; 3v). And then I have connected the radio and sensor to VCC on the Pro Mini. When the Pro Mini is connected to my iMac, Domoticz receives everything as it should. However, when I disconnect it from the computer and connect the battery source, all LEDs light as they should, indicitating that they have power, but it won't connect to Domoticz over NRF24.
I have used a multimeter to check the voltage and if the radio receives enough power, and it does. All power/ground pins show around 3.3v. Any ideas to debug what's wrong?
Has anyone figured out how to make Domoticz show no values in the chart when the sensors stops sending data?
In my case, I had a soil moisture sensor that stopped working. Domoticz notices that the sensor is not sending anymore, and the device block gets this red background color in the header in Domoticz. However, the chart still shows the last known value ever since it stopped working. Is is possible to stop the chart from plotting "false" values?
@mfalkvidd Thanks for the careful and understanding explanation. Of course it makes sense that salt water is more conductive than tap water and distilled water. I will calibrate and map according to the specific soil I will use the sensor with. Thanks
@Yveaux I haven't tried that, but that was a good idea to see if the sensor itself has any issues with the conductivity. One can never completely trust cheap chinese hardware..
I bought a cheap soil moisture sensor from Aliexpress that is simple and straight forward to use. The sensor reports 1023 when it is completely dry, which is correct. However when the sensor is submerged in water, it only reports around 380-400. One might think it should show a value much closer to 0?
Does anyone have experience with this? Or is the simple solution just to map the values from around 400-1023 as 100%-0% moisture?
@MrRikkie Did you solve this issue? I got the same error as you..
@Scala I have the same error as you. Worked perfectly first time, and after reboot the "/dev/ttyMySensorsGateway: No such file or directory" error message appear. Did you solve this?
Thanks for this thorough guide, it works perfect