My Project

@segelmann Great to see you are having fun on your Mysensors journey. A reliable connection to your nodes is a most important piece of a Mysensors setup. This becomes very apparent when you start deploying light switches that require an immediate reaction once activated. There is nothing worse than to gather all your family around to show off your latest piece of node wizardry only to find it does not perform as expected every time. For nodes that are to be on the fringes of range I use this mod to the antenna, In testing I have found it to make a worthwhile improvement to range. For my outside network I used this method to first establish the reliable range from my gateway , then once my first repeater was established used the same method to place the next repeater within range of my first repeater. By using the antenna mod and correct repeater placement I now have reliable connections to my nodes over 100m away from the gateway with just two repeater nodes. You will find that once you get clear of buildings you will get a sizeable increase in the distance that can be covered reliably. There are a few things to remember with repeater nodes, you cannot use sleep or delay in their code as this will prevent them from working as a repeater. You should try and have the repeater node as high up as is practical and clear of surrounding walls etc that might impede their signal. Nodes that are on the fringe of range from the gateway may still connect to the gateway instead of your repeater and thus still give you unstable results. To prevent this you can include the code below . #define MY_PARENT_NODE_ID 11 // set this to your repeater node id #define MY_PARENT_NODE_IS_STATIC // this will force your node to use only the repeater this must be added at the top of your sketch before #include <MySensors.h> and will instruct the node to use the repeater at all times. Of course you must ensure that the repeater is always available.

@koen01 I'm going for a similar next step. The cars must be parked in a very specific position relative to the side wall and the garage door, or otherwise it's almost impossible to move around the garage. Something like this Hek project. Cheers

@AWI Ha, I forgot about that...I remembered that you actually need a minimum load on the output of the switching regulator for it to even run. I created a spreadsheet just taking into account the quiescent currents and assuming 70% effciency for the lm2596 (a "bit" optimistic. Datasheet says 80% at 3A load for 12V-5V operation). Quiescent current for the LM2596 is much higher. Considering the mini pro takes about 12-20mA running, I am sure to opt for the 7805 or LM317 from now on ;) (If there is nothing else drawing current). I think nano etc are comparable but the FTDI USB to serial converter probably adds some current that the mini pro is missing. [image: 1491471718042-upload-90fd958b-83f1-4af4-abbc-f4103ec1e2fc-resized.png] 0_1491471734938_analysis7805.xlsx

If I get any more of these I won't hack them like I did the other ones. I just recently got some Sonoffs that I put the ESPEasy firmware on and am using a modified wifi switch plugin on my VeraPlus that seems to be working good now I did try the ESPEasy firmware on the Eco Plugs, but had some issues with it in the beginning which is why I switched. I still have the ESP8266 controllers that I pulled out of those Eco Plugs, All I have to do to use them on a different relay board is connect 3 wires, Ground, +5 volts and the control signal for the relay, so the boards won't go to waste. I am just finishing up one of my newly printed 4 button wall switch controllers (https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4317/us-decora-style-wall-switch/34), and I will be doing a 2 button controller immediately after that one. Both of these will be used like scene controllers for my Vera Plus and I will use them to control the Sonoffs connected to my ceiling fans and lights. I may get a couple more of the Eco Plugs to use with the 4 button switch controller.

@sghazagh Hi I am new. How to do reporting part of the battery. Thanks

Hi, thanks .. I just build my house one year ago, all wiring been planned before.. but a shield is still hanging ..:) need to find some proper El. box.. [image: 1491219302133-img_20170403_143137-resized.jpeg]

Might be helpful for somebody... Things configuration for OpenHab2: Bridge mysensors:bridge-eth:gateway_2 [ ipAddress="192.168.178.50", tcpPort=5003, sendDelay=200, enableNetworkSanCheck=true ] { /** define things connected to that bridge here */ light sonoff01 [ nodeId="0", childId="0", requestAck=true ] }

@AWI I've made similar project but using RS485 and modbus for communication. Now I'm porting it into mysensors. In my project I've light sensor to lower fan revs during night (because of noise). I will try to post my sketch when I finish it.

@engy I never let the sensor stay for to long since it was so ugly and seemed to drain my batteries fast. What I eventually did was restore it to its original state with a light and light-sensor and powered with a usb charger. Now when motion is detected an event with the light intensity is sent to my HASS server, who then decides if the light should turn on or not....

@LastSamurai Thanks for the image, I had the address as localhost instead of the IP of the raspberry PI, changed it and everything works now :) @gohan , yes, I upgraded to beta version since release doesn't have MQTT support yet.

@ronnyandre good, I always suggest to go with commercial product when people are not familiar when working with 220v: safety first!

Yep, both were 3D printed back then. The Toronto library actually has 3D printers so I built a CAD model and had it printed there. There are also have a lot of web-based companies who will print and ship out parts. Since then I've built my own 3D printer, it comes in handy and they're getting pretty cheap.

Hi, all this is awesome, about the same what I would like to make as I'm heating the house with wood boiler (actually wood gasification boiler to be correct), and accumulation tank. Still working on hot water boiler, but that's not far. For now, I got working Individually DS18b20 node (still with automatic addressing) and one node that reads the temperature in my boilers second burning chamber with a k-type thermocouple but still struggling to get them bout working with one node. It would be very helpful for some guidance or example for this. So my goal is to get 2x thermocouples (additional for smoke temperatures) and some 18b20s in one node + some standard stuff what I am not still sure about. But for now big thanks to mysensors team and community for this. [image: grafiks_zpsbh7fwkge.png]