@NeverDie I would sure hope it would be faster, otherwise no point in doing it. You can change the circuit so that the ESP8266 doesn't even have power unless it gets an external trigger. From the video this needs some kind of external trigger either way.
I would have to test it to be sure, but it sounds like it's booting fresh each time, so I don't see how it could be faster.
@NeverDie Oh, sorry, I wasn't trying to get proof or anything.
I just was asking for your personal experience. Not doubting, just looking at them now and wondering how it had been for you. Do you mind saying which one you have that you are so happy with? I've been looking at different 'best' lists, and getting some conflicting info on them.
I'd just like a little more input before buying one, but with seeing all the improvements, and how many devices we have that could use it, now I'm wanting to do it sooner rather than later.
Thanks!
@NeverDie I think this is what you are looking for:
https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Zigbee/#hardware
https://github.com/esphome/feature-requests/issues/1111
Also look at "Network" category: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/guide/adapters/
If you want to make something yourself, you need to make UART to LAN adapter basically. Home Assistant can use network socket as serial address https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/zha/#zigate-or-sonoff-zbbridge-devices. So basically you think in the right direction, just skip MQTT part:)
koldogut created this issue in esphome/feature-requests
open
ESP32 based Zigbee2mqtt gateway
#1111
@NeverDie I think that usually you can 'rescue' the symbols and part footprints from the files directly as well. I've had it successfully work usually, but a couple times when opening an old file from a previous KiCad version I've had some errors.
Knock on wood, but so far nothing has been unrecoverable. Of course having a dedicated symbol and footprint library would make it even more foolproof, but it might not be necessary.
I even managed to solder a nRF24L01+ to the board so everything works on 3.3Volt, and this node works fine.
This took a lot of scratching copper from the board...
