@thecricketer
There are so many things to consider when selecting components but for us hobby-tinkerers there are a few that are most important e.g.
Max input voltage: Vinmax
Max output current: Iout
Size or package
Price

You will find all these answers in the data sheets. Normally available from your components supplier or else on the internet. Below is a simple table:

Type Vinmax Iout Package Price (SEK, single units)
LD1117 15 V 800 mA TO220 5:50
LE33 20 V 100 mA TO92 9:-
LP2950 30 V 100 mA TO92 9:-
LM317 40V delta 1500 mA TO220 9:- (There is also an 100 mA version for 6:25)

If you are using the Sundberg newbiePCB the design is for an TO92 package so either LE33 or LP2950 is the choice.
The LD1177 is TO220 package and you do not need 800 mA for the radio. It only consumes about 30 mA when transmitting.
The LM317 is an adjustable regulator so it can regulate to 5 V or 3.3 V or whatever you like but it takes two more resistors to set the voltage. In this case it is overkill and does not fit the Sundberg board.

If you plan to run your design on batteries I think the LP2950 is better than the LE33 because the LP2950 consumes less power internally, only 75 microamps. The LE33 can use as much as 500 microamps internally.

This is just scratching the surface of component choice but keep it simple in the beginning.
Happy tinkering!

@pierrot10
1 mm of rain over 1 square meter is 1 liter of water. Correct!
One liter makes 358 tips so one tip is then 2,7932 milliliters that is correct.
But rainfall mm/hr is 2,7932 * nbr of tips only if the area of the funnel is 1 square meter.

Your funnel is only 55 square centimeters so you will only collect 55/10000 of the rain that falls on the whole square meter.

The example you are using at the top of your post does not have the size of the funnel anywhere in the code.

@pierrot10
Since I am using almost the same tipping bucket rain gauge, let me try to explain how it works:

The top of my funnel measures 109 x 49 mm = 5341 mm2 (square millimeters). For now, let us not worry about the rounded corners of the funnel.
If it rains 1 mm the funnel will collect 5341 mm3 (cubic millimeters) which is 5,341 cubic centimeters equal to 5,34 milliliters. This is difficult to use for calibration so let's try with 10 mm of rain which then equals 53,4 milliliters or 0,53 deciliters of water.

So, you pour 53,4 milliliters of water into the funnel, not spilling any and you count the number of bucket tips. In my example, when I do this, the bucket tips 30 times. So if the bucket tips 30 times during a time period, it has rained 10 mm during that time. Or, the other way around: One tip of the bucket = 10/30 = 0,33 mm of rain.

Do not worry about the size of the bucket inside. What matters is how many times the bucket tips for a given amount of water. It is the area of the funnel which is important.
When it rains 1 mm an area of one square meter will receive 1 liter of water but the little funnel will only receive 5,34 milliliters as explained above.

Now, if you really want to be accurate, you should take away the area of the rounded corners. But that will be less than 0,5% and there are other sources of inaccuracy.

I had the same issue some time ago, measuring time while asleep and running on batteries. I ended up building this project: Battery operated rain gauge..
The time between reports is controlled by a CMOS 555 timer, independently from the Arduino. Needless to say I did not include any other sensors.

@popsyann
In your sketch, please check that you have defined the input pin for the PIR pin as pinMode (PIR_PIN, INPUT) and not pinMode (PIR_PIN, INPUT_PULLUP). If you have activated the internal pullup in the arduino this will prevent the PIR from pulling the input low when there is no motion.

Yes but the issue is with the sensor node. What sketch are you using there?

Hi!
What controller are you using?
From the logs it seems that the sensor is asking for an ID but does not get any.
Node ID is handed out by the controller. Or else you have to set the node ID in the sketch. What does the sketch look like?

@zboblamont This is maybe OT but I am extremely interested in the mechanical design of the "gun-barrel" mounting of the transducers. I have tried measuring the level in a septic tank using the DYP-ME007 transducer. It all works fine in open air but as soon as I mount the transducer in the tank, the measurement reported is that the tank is full to the brim, no matter what.

I suspected echos in the tank so I enclosed the transducer by a piece of PVC sewage pipe, 70 mm dia and 150 mm long, but this made no change. You mention 1/2" pipe. Is the transducer mounted at one end, transmitting through the pipe? How long is the pipe in that case? Any photo or drawing would be much appreciated!

Hi!
Sorry to say, but the Arduino Nano may not be the best choice for battery operation and maybe the Motion Detector also is not the most power economic application. I guess, to start with you have not done any modification to the Nano like removing the power LED? There goes a few milliamps the whole time.

The PIR need rather high voltage to be stable and not generate random detects. I run mine on 8V. But the Nano needs only 5V so you burn off a bit of power in the voltage regulator chip, even if the sleep current of the Nano is very low. Of course, the more detections there are, the more power is used during the day.

The Arduino ProMini is a better choice for battery operation. Please see Battery Powering in the left-hand column on the MySensors site. There are a few tricks there to really bring down power consumption. Then again the PIR needs more than 5V so you will have to use a power booster if you use the ProMini 8 MHz version that runs on 3.3 V.

I think sleeping for 600000 mS will only marginally improve battery economy. I went through the same ordeal as you and I run my Motion Detector on a 9 V wall-wart.

For sensors that really work well on battery I would suggest Light, Temperature and Humidity. I have a few of these built around ProMini 8 MHz and they typically run for 9 months or more on 2 x AA reporting every 2 minutes, but if you look at the link above, people achieve much better results. But I'm happy with 9 months.

Best of luck and keep experimenting!

@Avamander I'm using OpenHab together with influxdb and grafana. All running on the same RPi. influxdb collects temperatures from half a dozen sensors and also a rain gauge every 2-5 minutes. Grafana plots the values every five minutes.

OpenHab has rather a steep learning curve but the support forum is excellent. Openhabian is the easiest way to get running with OpenHab on and RPi