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My Slim 2AA Battery Node

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  • m26872M m26872

    Board releases
    (other colors might be selected when ordering)

    • Version 2.0 (black) [order] Now designed in KiCad. "Final release". I'm not developing it further atm, but I know others have some projects going.
    • Version 1.4 (red) My latest version in Eagle. Known issues are wrong references due to panelization and broken circuit diagram links.
    • Version 1.2 (blue) Some less convienient placed components and the panelized verision has a faulty via.
    • Version 1.0 (green) The one described below in this first post. Working but not panelized and lacks a few features.

    Share stats and info
    The panelized versions 2.0, 1.4 and 1.2 have until today (2019-02-24) been shared 230 (!) times at boardhouse. Together with a few shares of the non-panelized version and my own orders, and the usual 3x10-11 boards/order, it means a lot of boards! Guess very few build nodes with every board, but at least the design should be well proven by now. This also means a few $ to MySensors.org, since 1 $/order will be donated. Great thanks to everyone who has orderd this board! I'll keep this share-info updated for transparency purposes. IMPORTANT: Please understand that DirtyPCBs.com is a non-profit community service, with a lot of manual support required. So please be patient and nice to their support in general. A new site is under development. Read more at their support site. EDIT 2017-06-22: Despite the new site it is still a hassle every time to get a reply from them and then the share credits. If anyone have some more info on this, please let me know.

    Introduction
    This project describes a successor Node concept to my first 2AA battery sensor. I have combined a few simple design options to a result that I find rather useful myself and I think should be shared. The application specific sensor/-s of your own choice has to be added to this Node design, nor here any example sketches provided here except from a few links further below. I use this design for all my door and window reed switches, temperature (calibrated internal or thermistor), LDR and similar simple sensor types. But, nothing prevents the use of more sophisticated sensors like Si7021 here as well. A few links to sensor examples based on this node will be presented further down in this post.

    Features

    • Simple, in the sense that it consists of a minimum number of components and common available material.
    • Cheap regarding choice of components, assembly work effort, energy storage and power consumption (battery type and life time).
    • Flexible universal design base equipped with various sensors. PCB pads used as port connections or prototyping area for extensions.
    • Small and discrete to fit in confined spaces and to reach WAF level

    And more concrete:

    The uC
    Hardware
    A "bare bones" ATMega328p 28pin PDIP (with or without socket). Bought from here and here. My reasons to not use Arduino Pro Mini here are

    • The APM width is too big.
    • APM has no prototyping/near connection area. There's no spare pads for separate connections unless you accept to use pads connected to softwise inactive ports.
    • Radio module connection has to be manually made to the APM.
    • Low power hacks like removing power led and voltage regulator are needed.
    • Necessary support components (resistors and capacitors) are few and can easily be added to a custom pcb.

    Software
    Since I prefer Arduino IDE for programming (flash) and debugging, I need a bootloader. Bootloader instructions are found all over the internet, but here's anyway how I do it. I use this precompiled bootloader from here. It's an Optiboot with 1MHz internal clock and 9600 baud serial communication. Fuse changed to BOD disable. According to this you should use minimal startup time to reduce power in every 8s sleep cycle, but for the moment I don't care and stick to the default 65ms. I use Avrisp mkII avr programmer for fuse and bootloading similar to this procedure. Arduino as ISP, Avr/USBtiny or whatever any other should of course be just as good. Avr Studio 4.19 is a good choice for Avrisp mkII (perhaps for others too) and 4.19 is the last version before the gigantic (and for me useless) IDEs were released.
    I add this new board to my "boards.txt". Fuse settings, don't forget to set the lock bits. If programming a large batch, the ELF production file is handy.
    Here's a great tutorial for those who use Arduino Uno as ISP.
    UPDATE 1: Today (2017) a lot has happen since I wrote about this. Some things has made it easier for us. A very good selection of precompiled bootloaders is now found here at MySensors. And you don't need to (and shouldn't) mess with the boards.txt any more. Instead I recommend the installation of MiniCore to the Arduino IDE.
    UPDATE 2: There have been reported issues with MySensors 2.x freezing on SlimNodes running at 1MHz, which I've confirmed. Recommended solution when using MyS 2.x, is to use 8MHz (internal) instead.

    The Radio
    A standard NRF24L01+ radio module is used. The width align with the AAs and no mods is needed (like with my other one). As always I try to keep the antenna part of the module free from shading metal.
    2020-12-14: On using RFM69 - here's a hint from @joaoabs at this page: I've been troubleshooting this slimnode with RFM69 radios and realized that a shunt between RFM69's DIO0 and Mega328's INT0 is required, otherwise the node will not "hear" the gateway. Even if the nrf2rmf69 board is used this shunt is required. It seems this is a re-current issue

    The Board
    At first I planned the build on a proto board, just to stick to the cheap-and-standard concept. But with today's low prices on custom made PCBs, it wasn't any longer an option. Space, quality and work effort are so much more attractive.
    Latest design files are open and available at the openhardware.io site. Please click on the image-link below to access openhardware.io where all design files such as latest BOM, kicad-files and circuit diagram (pdf) are found.
    https://www.openhardware.io/view/10/My-Slim-2AA-Battery-Node

    Board (v2.0) Top Side:
    0_1455651596639_boardv2_top.PNG

    Board (v2.0) Bottom Side:
    0_1455651606026_boardv2_bottom.PNG

    The Enclosure
    UPDATE: If you dont't like my primitive casing descibed below, in this post the user @buxtronix made a nice 3D-printed case which you can find here.

    An important overall part of this design idea was to align minimum dimensions of the components and get rid of "expensive" parts like battery holder. It turn out (see below) that the enclosure's functionality as battery holder wasn't needed even though it was the initial idea. The cable duct case has been discussed earlier, but rejected by some due to lack of ways to seal the endings. I still haven't the perfect solution, but I've since many years simply used (cheap) white tape. With some care it looks ok, and still does 5-10 years later. There are often proper terminators/endings to buy, but for some reason to unrealistic high prices.
    I used this cable duct with the dimension 17x20mm. Unfortunately it turned out that this particular type I used (Thorsman TMK T20) is now "professional grade" and dimension 17x20 is no longer very commercially available for consumers (here in Sweden at least). Eg. to get it, you have to pay >5$/m from places like this or buy it in bulk (50m) from a professional store (preferably as a professional with discount). The 50m bulk batch will give you 263 sensor nodes of standard length (19cm).
    Standard consumer dimension cable duct is e.g. 15x15mm from what I've seen. It'd be nice to design a 2AAA node in that one. If only there is a thin radio module? (Future project.)
    box1.jpg box2.jpg box3.jpgbox4.jpg

    The Battery pack
    Easy home made 2AA battery pack. Maybe it looks more demanding and time consuming than it is. (Usually its the other way around in my experience.)

    1. Start by taping the two (connecting) batteries together.
    2. Prepare the wires and make a small bun at the battery connecting ends.
    3. Attach the wires with tape.
    4. Tighten the cable ties and carefully note
    • that the wires are pressed to make good contact with the battery poles
    • how the cable tie ends must be placed to not steal lateral space
    • that the wire from the bottom must be routed near the cable tie to not steal space.
    1. Make the pack more rigid by taping one or two times around at the top, bottom and middle.
    2. Trim wires and solder the female connector. If desired, leave at least a small part of one wire naked for current measurements.
      A battery change is done fast when cables a already made (use solid wires that preserves its shape). So why pay for a battery holder when you can remake a pack with fresh batteries in 1-2 min and your low power sensor will live 5-10 years before anything needs to be done?
      bat1.jpg bat2.jpg bat3.jpg

    The Interface/Connections
    Convenient there's the 6 pin standard serial interface exactly like on the Arduino Pro Mini. Perhaps it's mirrored here, but I think everybody double checks Gnd and Vcc before connecting. The Vcc and Gnd pins also serves as a connector for the battery pack. (CTS is connected to GND on the PCB.)
    "Under" the radiomodule are pads for the ICSP pins. The idea was to have a socket for the radiomodule instead of the "expensive" 328p socket and still have easy future access to the SPI/ICSP interface. Perhaps not very useful. But nice to have Gnd and Vcc in this end of the board for general purpose.

    The Sleep Mode Power Consumption
    I measured the sleep mode current draw to be 1.5uA when it's set to interrupt wake up and 5.8uA when it's set to timer wake up.
    power1.JPG power2.jpg

    Sensor Examples and more
    Reed Switch Sensor: post 116
    Humidity Sensor: Slim Node Si7021 sensor example
    Motion Sensor 1: Slim Node as a Mini 2AA Battery PIR Motion Sensor
    Motion Sensor 2: Slim CR123A (2AA) battery node..
    Scene Controller: Slim Node scene controller/ keypad
    (work in progress to collect more examples here)

    Not Sensor exemples, but some nice to see "node variations" from @AWI:
    Here (post 88) and here (post 233). And now there's also @AWI 's My Slim 2AA Battery Node Tools.

    Still not "slim" enough? Check out Very Narrow and Minimal Switch Node ! by @GertSanders

    And also, there's this 5V-slim-node a 5V-slim-node mod by @Soloam

    Feature Requests
    Here's a collection of suggestions and development ideas for future versions of the board (or other parts). If anyone else make their own board where some of this is included, I'd be happy to reference it from here.

    • Pin labels/references also on board top side.
    • Turn the nRF footprint to make the assembly shorter.
    • Make the board suitable for the nRF SMD version.

    More Pictures
    Some photos. First a comparison next to My (old) 2AA battery sensor, one painted and one not. (Note the high WAF of the colour even without the paint.) Then some placement examples. Reed switch nodes for all my doors and windows are my first priority.
    20150901_220448.jpg 20150901_220505.jpg 20150901_220659.jpg 20150901_220847.jpg 20150901_220948.jpg IMG_2065.JPG IMG_2063.JPG IMG_2064.JPG

    ahmedadelhosniA Offline
    ahmedadelhosniA Offline
    ahmedadelhosni
    wrote on last edited by ahmedadelhosni
    #201

    First node. Door sensor.
    Great boards :+
    0_1453937636107_1453937611984-964477924.jpg

    0_1453938444465_1453938399889-988876899.jpg

    .

    1 Reply Last reply
    1
    • ahmedadelhosniA ahmedadelhosni

      @meddie THanks for the answer.

      Can you please also explain your final result to reach 4uA. I have also the same problem and current is 90uA and sometimes drops to 20uA, then rises again. Thanks.

      Edit: I figured out that I was using the 3.3v from arduino UNO. CHanged to two 1.5 batteries. THe current drops to 1.4uA when contact is open but sometimes it is also 15 uA. And when contact is closed it is 60 uA, and sometimes drops. Don't know why it is not stable.

      Edit 26.1.2016: I managed to reach 1.4uA with door opened, and 15uA when closed. I guess the problem was with the wiring. DOn't really know but I used a battery holder instead. I will try to rechange the resistor value to 1Mohm and reupdate.

      Edit 27.1.2016: ok I created another node and connected the contact sensor in series with the 1Mohm and the output is the voltage divider. now it is 1.4uA when open and 4.6uA when closed.

      Thanks

      M Offline
      M Offline
      meddie
      wrote on last edited by
      #202

      @ahmedadelhosni said:

      @meddie THanks for the answer.

      Can you please also explain your final result to reach 4uA. I have also the same problem and current is 90uA and sometimes drops to 20uA, then rises again. Thanks.

      Edit: I figured out that I was using the 3.3v from arduino UNO. CHanged to two 1.5 batteries. THe current drops to 1.4uA when contact is open but sometimes it is also 15 uA. And when contact is closed it is 60 uA, and sometimes drops. Don't know why it is not stable.

      Edit 26.1.2016: I managed to reach 1.4uA with door opened, and 15uA when closed. I guess the problem was with the wiring. DOn't really know but I used a battery holder instead. I will try to rechange the resistor value to 1Mohm and reupdate.

      Edit 27.1.2016: ok I created another node and connected the contact sensor in series with the 1Mohm and the output is the voltage divider. now it is 1.4uA when open and 4.6uA when closed.

      Thanks

      Yes, i used a 1 Mohm reisitor instead of the internall pull up. You can read this few messages above. This was a tip from GertSander

      1 Reply Last reply
      1
      • Tomasz PazioT Offline
        Tomasz PazioT Offline
        Tomasz Pazio
        wrote on last edited by
        #203

        Hi, I build the board but I still have issues with burning ATMega328p chip.
        Can you describe and attach files that should work?
        The only success "burn" I had with burning bootloader was with hex and boards entry from first post using arduino uno and ips programer ( so it is like burning uno bootloader with your setup)
        After that I was trying to upload sketch but than it was not possible because of "?# in boards file but there is no such sign.
        I rewert file to stock and burn sketch like it would be standard uno board but using programer and not standard usb. No idea if it is corect so that is why I ask for more details.
        Thank you in advance
        Tomasz

        m26872M 1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • Tomasz PazioT Tomasz Pazio

          Hi, I build the board but I still have issues with burning ATMega328p chip.
          Can you describe and attach files that should work?
          The only success "burn" I had with burning bootloader was with hex and boards entry from first post using arduino uno and ips programer ( so it is like burning uno bootloader with your setup)
          After that I was trying to upload sketch but than it was not possible because of "?# in boards file but there is no such sign.
          I rewert file to stock and burn sketch like it would be standard uno board but using programer and not standard usb. No idea if it is corect so that is why I ask for more details.
          Thank you in advance
          Tomasz

          m26872M Offline
          m26872M Offline
          m26872
          Hardware Contributor
          wrote on last edited by
          #204

          @Tomasz-Pazio Sounds more like some issue with the IDE and boards file than hw and fuses/bootloader. Have you tried different IDE versions?

          Tomasz PazioT 1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • M Offline
            M Offline
            meddie
            wrote on last edited by meddie
            #205

            @ahmedadelhosni
            what is it on the door? is that a plastic wrap?

            ahmedadelhosniA 1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • M meddie

              @ahmedadelhosni
              what is it on the door? is that a plastic wrap?

              ahmedadelhosniA Offline
              ahmedadelhosniA Offline
              ahmedadelhosni
              wrote on last edited by ahmedadelhosni
              #206

              @meddie
              0_1454272780491_1453938474660-1453938399889-988876899.jpg

              The sensor is drawn by black rectangle. This is adhesive tape like this : http://2.imimg.com/data2/YX/UQ/MY-3910304/sale-bopp-clarity-adhesive-tape-250x250.jpg

              The other red rectangle on the door was old tape I didn't remove. Actually before getting my boards I used a bread board and a battery for testing, so I needed a tape for support and keeping it in place :)

              1 Reply Last reply
              1
              • M Offline
                M Offline
                meddie
                wrote on last edited by
                #207

                :thumbsup:

                1 Reply Last reply
                1
                • m26872M m26872

                  @Tomasz-Pazio Sounds more like some issue with the IDE and boards file than hw and fuses/bootloader. Have you tried different IDE versions?

                  Tomasz PazioT Offline
                  Tomasz PazioT Offline
                  Tomasz Pazio
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #208

                  @m26872 thanks for advice, bootloader burned on IDE 1.0.x and after that, sketches are uploaded properly on 1.6.x.

                  One more question, how it should report battery state? I can not see any variable created for this in Vera.

                  m26872M 1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • Tomasz PazioT Tomasz Pazio

                    @m26872 thanks for advice, bootloader burned on IDE 1.0.x and after that, sketches are uploaded properly on 1.6.x.

                    One more question, how it should report battery state? I can not see any variable created for this in Vera.

                    m26872M Offline
                    m26872M Offline
                    m26872
                    Hardware Contributor
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #209

                    @Tomasz-Pazio Great! If I remember Vera correct, a variable should be created automaticly upon first message if you use the sendbatterylevel() fuction.

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • Cliff KarlssonC Offline
                      Cliff KarlssonC Offline
                      Cliff Karlsson
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #210

                      anyone care to write down the exact precedure of how to burn a new bootloader to the atmel chip? what files goes to what folders and so on.

                      m26872M 1 Reply Last reply
                      1
                      • GertSandersG Offline
                        GertSandersG Offline
                        GertSanders
                        Hardware Contributor
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #211

                        @Cliff-Karlsson I'm experimenting with several versions of Optiboot (various upload and upload combinations) for my board. Once that is done, I will add it to the documentation of my board. I'm extending the sketch found here:

                        http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11635

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • Cliff KarlssonC Cliff Karlsson

                          anyone care to write down the exact precedure of how to burn a new bootloader to the atmel chip? what files goes to what folders and so on.

                          m26872M Offline
                          m26872M Offline
                          m26872
                          Hardware Contributor
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #212

                          @Cliff-Karlsson Let's continue your bootloader trouble discussion in it's own thread:
                          http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2975/how-do-i-burn-a-bootloader-to-an-328p-with-uno-bootloader-preinstalled/8

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          1
                          • rsachocR Offline
                            rsachocR Offline
                            rsachoc
                            wrote on last edited by rsachoc
                            #213

                            OK, so finally I have received most of the parts I need to build a few of these sensors. I want to go with a temp sensor at first, the si7021. So I wanted to check what "other bits" I need (newb alert).

                            0_1454624296448_upload-80039080-fce7-4484-b238-a54bdb2d28fd

                            From there, do I need both 1 and 2? If so, what are these?

                            0_1454624355650_upload-36748b2e-623b-4953-bdb4-394fbe264ef6

                            From here, what are 3 and 4? Do I need both?

                            Also, depending on the answers above, do I solder to exactly the same pins? Have I missed anything?

                            Thanks

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • Cliff KarlssonC Offline
                              Cliff KarlssonC Offline
                              Cliff Karlsson
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #214

                              Ok, finaly succeded in burning the bootloader. Now comes next part. Fuses and lockbits, I have no idea what this means but is this what I need to do?

                              avrdude -C ../etc/avrdude.conf -c usbasp -B5 -p ATmega328P -U lfuse:w:0x62:m -U hfuse:w:0xDE:m -U efuse:w:0x07:m -U lock:w:0x2F:m
                              
                              m26872M 1 Reply Last reply
                              1
                              • M Offline
                                M Offline
                                meddie
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #215

                                oh, yes! And you have to be carefully with them, because to set the fuses wrong, can destroy your µcontroller

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • M Offline
                                  M Offline
                                  meddie
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #216

                                  if you look to message Nr 179 you will find my bootloader and the correct fuses for this. But its a 1MHz Bootloader and the fuses too.
                                  Dont use it if you want to run it at 8 MHz.

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • bjacobseB Offline
                                    bjacobseB Offline
                                    bjacobse
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #217

                                    Web-based fuse calculator
                                    A different way of evaluating fuses is presented at this web page:
                                    http://www.engbedded.com/fusecalc

                                    At the bottom I inserted your fuses.
                                    Translation:
                                    Divide by8-> if your mcy board uses 8Mhz, then you now use 1Mhz Clock (Good this enables that you now can use a lower voltage down to 1,9V)
                                    SPI is enabled, then you can program your mcu with FTDI cable
                                    BOD mcu will not power down mcu when you have a low voltage (So you can use down to 1,9V)
                                    I write 1,9Volt since this is the lowest voltage your NRF24L01+ can use for operation

                                    0_1454685582246_upload-5f146d65-d819-455d-8d3c-ed029eb79abb

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • Cliff KarlssonC Offline
                                      Cliff KarlssonC Offline
                                      Cliff Karlsson
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #218

                                      Sorry for asking the same questions over and over but I have just used the files linked at the top of this thread.

                                      This is the bootloader that I used:

                                      atmega328_1a.hex (Optiboot for 9600baud at 1MHz)
                                      
                                      
                                      ##############################################################
                                      # Add the new board to boards.txt (normally located at "C:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr"
                                      # The *.bootloader.* etries only matters if you want to program bootloader (and fuses) from Arduino IDE. 
                                      # See http://www.engbedded.com/fusecalc (select Atmega328p) for interpretation of fuse values and how 
                                      # extended fuses are written in different applications (07h in Arduino IDE = FFh in Atmel studio).
                                      ##############################################################
                                      
                                      apm96.name=APM Optiboot internal 1MHz noBOD 9600baud
                                      
                                      apm96.upload.tool=avrdude
                                      apm96.upload.protocol=arduino
                                      apm96.upload.maximum_size=32256
                                      apm96.upload.speed=9600
                                      apm96.bootloader.tool=avrdude
                                      apm96.bootloader.low_fuses=0x62
                                      apm96.bootloader.high_fuses=0xde
                                      apm96.bootloader.extended_fuses=0x07
                                      apm96.bootloader.path=optiboot_v50
                                      apm96.bootloader.file=atmega328_1a.hex
                                      apm96.bootloader.unlock_bits=0x3F
                                      apm96.bootloader.lock_bits=0x2F
                                      apm96.build.mcu=atmega328p
                                      apm96.build.f_cpu=1000000L
                                      apm96.build.core=arduino
                                      apm96.build.variant=standard
                                      
                                      

                                      Do I still need to add fuses or is that done when the bootloader is burned?

                                      ahmedadelhosniA 1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • Cliff KarlssonC Cliff Karlsson

                                        Sorry for asking the same questions over and over but I have just used the files linked at the top of this thread.

                                        This is the bootloader that I used:

                                        atmega328_1a.hex (Optiboot for 9600baud at 1MHz)
                                        
                                        
                                        ##############################################################
                                        # Add the new board to boards.txt (normally located at "C:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr"
                                        # The *.bootloader.* etries only matters if you want to program bootloader (and fuses) from Arduino IDE. 
                                        # See http://www.engbedded.com/fusecalc (select Atmega328p) for interpretation of fuse values and how 
                                        # extended fuses are written in different applications (07h in Arduino IDE = FFh in Atmel studio).
                                        ##############################################################
                                        
                                        apm96.name=APM Optiboot internal 1MHz noBOD 9600baud
                                        
                                        apm96.upload.tool=avrdude
                                        apm96.upload.protocol=arduino
                                        apm96.upload.maximum_size=32256
                                        apm96.upload.speed=9600
                                        apm96.bootloader.tool=avrdude
                                        apm96.bootloader.low_fuses=0x62
                                        apm96.bootloader.high_fuses=0xde
                                        apm96.bootloader.extended_fuses=0x07
                                        apm96.bootloader.path=optiboot_v50
                                        apm96.bootloader.file=atmega328_1a.hex
                                        apm96.bootloader.unlock_bits=0x3F
                                        apm96.bootloader.lock_bits=0x2F
                                        apm96.build.mcu=atmega328p
                                        apm96.build.f_cpu=1000000L
                                        apm96.build.core=arduino
                                        apm96.build.variant=standard
                                        
                                        

                                        Do I still need to add fuses or is that done when the bootloader is burned?

                                        ahmedadelhosniA Offline
                                        ahmedadelhosniA Offline
                                        ahmedadelhosni
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #219

                                        @Cliff-Karlsson

                                        It is already done when you burn the bootloader.

                                        apm96.bootloader.low_fuses=0x62
                                        apm96.bootloader.high_fuses=0xde

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • Cliff KarlssonC Cliff Karlsson

                                          Ok, finaly succeded in burning the bootloader. Now comes next part. Fuses and lockbits, I have no idea what this means but is this what I need to do?

                                          avrdude -C ../etc/avrdude.conf -c usbasp -B5 -p ATmega328P -U lfuse:w:0x62:m -U hfuse:w:0xDE:m -U efuse:w:0x07:m -U lock:w:0x2F:m
                                          
                                          m26872M Offline
                                          m26872M Offline
                                          m26872
                                          Hardware Contributor
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #220

                                          @Cliff-Karlsson said:

                                          Ok, finaly succeded in burning the bootloader.

                                          Great news!! With Arduino as ISP? Any particular tips to share?

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