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  3. 💬 Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors

💬 Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors

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mysensorsbatteryeasynewbiepcbmysx
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  • cmrockwellC cmrockwell

    I would like to use this PCB with a 3.3V I2C sensor (data line and power must be <3.6V) and AC power. Is there a recommended way to accomplish this?

    sundberg84S Offline
    sundberg84S Offline
    sundberg84
    Hardware Contributor
    wrote on last edited by
    #283

    @cmrockwell - Sorry, Im not following...
    AC Power? You need some AC-DC converter then and this is not the intend of the PCB, sorry.

    Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
    RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

    cmrockwellC 1 Reply Last reply
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    • sundberg84S sundberg84

      @cmrockwell - Sorry, Im not following...
      AC Power? You need some AC-DC converter then and this is not the intend of the PCB, sorry.

      cmrockwellC Offline
      cmrockwellC Offline
      cmrockwell
      wrote on last edited by
      #284

      @sundberg84
      Sorry, I wasn't clear. I just meant running from a DC power supply, not batteries. It seems that the intended use is to have 5V Vcc when running from a power supply, but I would like a 3.3V Vcc. Thanks for your help. I have 10 of these PCBs in hand.

      Nca78N sundberg84S 2 Replies Last reply
      0
      • cmrockwellC cmrockwell

        @sundberg84
        Sorry, I wasn't clear. I just meant running from a DC power supply, not batteries. It seems that the intended use is to have 5V Vcc when running from a power supply, but I would like a 3.3V Vcc. Thanks for your help. I have 10 of these PCBs in hand.

        Nca78N Offline
        Nca78N Offline
        Nca78
        Hardware Contributor
        wrote on last edited by
        #285

        @cmrockwell You can use a 3.3V / 8MHz pro-mini board and power everything with 3.3V.

        1 Reply Last reply
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        • cmrockwellC cmrockwell

          @sundberg84
          Sorry, I wasn't clear. I just meant running from a DC power supply, not batteries. It seems that the intended use is to have 5V Vcc when running from a power supply, but I would like a 3.3V Vcc. Thanks for your help. I have 10 of these PCBs in hand.

          sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84
          Hardware Contributor
          wrote on last edited by
          #286

          @cmrockwell - yes, the pcb is designed like @cmrockwell said. You can use either 3.3v or below (batteries) or a 5v regulated voltage. If you choose the 3.3v/bat version you need a 3.3v pro mini.

          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

          cmrockwellC 1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • sundberg84S sundberg84

            @cmrockwell - yes, the pcb is designed like @cmrockwell said. You can use either 3.3v or below (batteries) or a 5v regulated voltage. If you choose the 3.3v/bat version you need a 3.3v pro mini.

            cmrockwellC Offline
            cmrockwellC Offline
            cmrockwell
            wrote on last edited by
            #287

            @sundberg84
            OK, I figured out how to do what I wanted. I am planning to connect a regulated power supply that provides ~3.3VDC. The main thing I had to figure out was how to configure the PCB when neither a battery booster nor a regulator are needed. I think either shorting the REG pin and shorting the regulator or shorting the BAT pin and shorting the battery booster would each achieve the desired result.

            sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
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            • cmrockwellC cmrockwell

              @sundberg84
              OK, I figured out how to do what I wanted. I am planning to connect a regulated power supply that provides ~3.3VDC. The main thing I had to figure out was how to configure the PCB when neither a battery booster nor a regulator are needed. I think either shorting the REG pin and shorting the regulator or shorting the BAT pin and shorting the battery booster would each achieve the desired result.

              sundberg84S Offline
              sundberg84S Offline
              sundberg84
              Hardware Contributor
              wrote on last edited by
              #288

              @cmrockwell - well done!
              Yes, digging deeper into it you can probably hack it many ways with jumpers and wires.

              Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
              RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • gohanG Offline
                gohanG Offline
                gohan
                Mod
                wrote on last edited by
                #289

                If I want to use a mini pro 3.3v and a 18650 battery that I have lying around, should I use something like THIS or do you think there is a better/more efficient way?

                sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
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                • gohanG gohan

                  If I want to use a mini pro 3.3v and a 18650 battery that I have lying around, should I use something like THIS or do you think there is a better/more efficient way?

                  sundberg84S Offline
                  sundberg84S Offline
                  sundberg84
                  Hardware Contributor
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #290

                  @gohan - im not that good in efficiency in boosters and converting voltage. Im sure that would work! The main thing is 1) deliver correct voltage and 2) if they are to noicy they will interfere with the radio and make the communication fail.

                  Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                  RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • P Offline
                    P Offline
                    popunonkok
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #291

                    I having trouble to order this board from DirtyPCB.
                    Both the link in the beginning of this thread (Rev8) and the link in the OpenHarware page just directs me to an empty DirtyPCB order page, with no board preloaded. It wants me to upload files.
                    Does anyone know how to order from DirtyPcb without uploading the boardfiles?

                    sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • P popunonkok

                      I having trouble to order this board from DirtyPCB.
                      Both the link in the beginning of this thread (Rev8) and the link in the OpenHarware page just directs me to an empty DirtyPCB order page, with no board preloaded. It wants me to upload files.
                      Does anyone know how to order from DirtyPcb without uploading the boardfiles?

                      sundberg84S Offline
                      sundberg84S Offline
                      sundberg84
                      Hardware Contributor
                      wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                      #292

                      @popunonkok - the link to DirtyPCB is not posted or maintained by me. If you want the latest revisions please go to order under openhardware.io = https://www.openhardware.io/order/4/PCB10X. DirtyPCB is not an option there so if you want to use them you need to download the gerberfiles for the project = https://www.openhardware.io/view/4/EasyNewbie-PCB-for-MySensors#tabs-design and upload them according to their instructions = http://dirtypcbs.com/store/pcbs/about (see order)

                      Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                      RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • P Offline
                        P Offline
                        popunonkok
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #293

                        Iv just orderd Rev8.

                        I have a primary question, might have a couple more later on.
                        In the info about the board it says:

                        "BAT: Short this if you are using batteries as power supply. It will activate booster circuit and feed the radio directly from the batteries and not voltage regulator"

                        It says about the same on the image of the board.

                        My question is. Why would I want to powewr the radio directly from battery and not from the Booster? Wouldent that make the radio not to function like it sould when the voltage dropps?

                        sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • P popunonkok

                          Iv just orderd Rev8.

                          I have a primary question, might have a couple more later on.
                          In the info about the board it says:

                          "BAT: Short this if you are using batteries as power supply. It will activate booster circuit and feed the radio directly from the batteries and not voltage regulator"

                          It says about the same on the image of the board.

                          My question is. Why would I want to powewr the radio directly from battery and not from the Booster? Wouldent that make the radio not to function like it sould when the voltage dropps?

                          sundberg84S Offline
                          sundberg84S Offline
                          sundberg84
                          Hardware Contributor
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #294

                          @popunonkok - if you search the forum and this thread about noice in the boosters you will find a big search result. The boosters is, to be honest, pretty bad. They generate alot of noice which interfere with the radio which is pretty sensitive. By "learning by doing" we have figured out that if you are using a booster the best way is to provice power to the radio directly from the batteries to avoid the noice... the radio will pretty much fail if you dont.

                          The radio can handle down to 1.9 v so this will be your minimum voltage for the circiut.

                          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          1
                          • P Offline
                            P Offline
                            popunonkok
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #295

                            Hmmm... Ok...

                            I had only read that the boosters helpt to drain the battery completely, had missed that they "messed" with the radio.

                            It will be really interesting to see what kind of battery life I can get out of 2 or 4 AA batteries on different types of nodes.

                            When I look at the Specs for the Pro Mini board the supply voltage is 3.35 - 12v.
                            I guess that means that without a Booster 2 AA batteries wont be able to run the Pro mini for a long time at all.

                            sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • P popunonkok

                              Hmmm... Ok...

                              I had only read that the boosters helpt to drain the battery completely, had missed that they "messed" with the radio.

                              It will be really interesting to see what kind of battery life I can get out of 2 or 4 AA batteries on different types of nodes.

                              When I look at the Specs for the Pro Mini board the supply voltage is 3.35 - 12v.
                              I guess that means that without a Booster 2 AA batteries wont be able to run the Pro mini for a long time at all.

                              sundberg84S Offline
                              sundberg84S Offline
                              sundberg84
                              Hardware Contributor
                              wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                              #296

                              @popunonkok - you are correct, they are good for they "suck all the juice" out of the batteries. Without modifications the Pro Mini 3.3v have a lowerst voltage of 2.8V (called Brown out detection) Because of that when you use 2xAA you need the booster to keep a stable 3.3v and most of the booster can convert everyhing down to 0.9v back to 3.3v. The radio can handle down to 1.9v and that will be your lowerst point.

                              I have nodes reading temp and humidity with a dht22 every 15min, running this setup and they last around 1 year each.
                              You need to search the forum and https://www.mysensors.org/build/battery for power saving with battery. The most common first step is to remove the voltage regulator and the led. Then you sleep the node when it isnt active.

                              On this image you see the led removed (red arrow). I think its easier to remove the resistor (black circle, marked 102) but its the same result. Voltage regulater (red circle) is removed as well. Note that many sites say cut the trace but its much easier to desolder them.

                              0_1488381852786_1.JPG

                              Using the internal voltage regulator (3.35 - 12v) will kill the node in weeks/days if you run them on 2-4xAA because of the high current drain. My aim building a newbie/easy PCB is a sleepcurrent of 0,1mA or 100uA.

                              Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                              RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • chrlyraC Offline
                                chrlyraC Offline
                                chrlyra
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #297

                                hi there,

                                Thanks for the easypcb! I'm trying to build a small solar powered weather station (like these: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/841/solar-powered-mini-weather-station), but just found that the battery that came with the solar panel only provides 1.2v. The booster works ok and I can power the arduino, but it's no enough for the radio :-(. Since powering the radio from the booster is not a option, I'm at a dead end. Or there's a way to still using this battery/solar panel?

                                sundberg84S gohanG 2 Replies Last reply
                                0
                                • chrlyraC chrlyra

                                  hi there,

                                  Thanks for the easypcb! I'm trying to build a small solar powered weather station (like these: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/841/solar-powered-mini-weather-station), but just found that the battery that came with the solar panel only provides 1.2v. The booster works ok and I can power the arduino, but it's no enough for the radio :-(. Since powering the radio from the booster is not a option, I'm at a dead end. Or there's a way to still using this battery/solar panel?

                                  sundberg84S Offline
                                  sundberg84S Offline
                                  sundberg84
                                  Hardware Contributor
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #298

                                  @chrlyra - you need 1.9V minimum for the radio. There are more advanced boosters you could try which probably is better and less noice... but this PCB was not designed for that purpose so sorry, I cant help you.

                                  Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                  RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • chrlyraC chrlyra

                                    hi there,

                                    Thanks for the easypcb! I'm trying to build a small solar powered weather station (like these: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/841/solar-powered-mini-weather-station), but just found that the battery that came with the solar panel only provides 1.2v. The booster works ok and I can power the arduino, but it's no enough for the radio :-(. Since powering the radio from the booster is not a option, I'm at a dead end. Or there's a way to still using this battery/solar panel?

                                    gohanG Offline
                                    gohanG Offline
                                    gohan
                                    Mod
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #299

                                    @chrlyra
                                    There is another project called solar harvester that uses a supercap to store energy

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    1
                                    • dbemowskD Offline
                                      dbemowskD Offline
                                      dbemowsk
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #300

                                      So a question I have always wondered about the voltage regulator is do you really need to desolder it if you connect your incoming power to the 3.3v pin and not the RAW pin? I would have thought the regulator would only drain power if it was converting the RAW power down to 3.3v.

                                      Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                                      Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                                      sundberg84S Nca78N 2 Replies Last reply
                                      0
                                      • dbemowskD dbemowsk

                                        So a question I have always wondered about the voltage regulator is do you really need to desolder it if you connect your incoming power to the 3.3v pin and not the RAW pin? I would have thought the regulator would only drain power if it was converting the RAW power down to 3.3v.

                                        sundberg84S Offline
                                        sundberg84S Offline
                                        sundberg84
                                        Hardware Contributor
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #301

                                        @dbemowsk - your logic sounds right, but i think it will draw power anyway... only way to figure out is to measure or google :)

                                        Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                        RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • P Offline
                                          P Offline
                                          popunonkok
                                          wrote on last edited by popunonkok
                                          #302

                                          I managed to change my PCB order, I saw that one of the updates to rev9 was the ability to use Pin 2 as GPIO instead of going to the Radio where it is unused. So now I have a order for Rev9 instead.

                                          I will try to desolder the led or resistor and the voltageregulator.

                                          Thanks for sharing your design.

                                          sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
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