💬 Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors
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@anticimex you could use male headers on mother and female headers on daughter...
Or just mount the mother on top.
here it seems the capacitor is the biggest concern.
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@sundberg84 if I remember correctly, the motherboard has to use male MYSX. So there is no option for that. I thought you planned to use sockets for the arduino. But if it is soldered directly on the pcb, it should go clear I think. But best to use angled ftdi interface then.
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Yes I guess the only viable solution with MYSX and a pro mini is to solder the promini without headers so it can be under the daughter board and big (electrolytic capacitor) or sensible (radio antenna) stuff can be as far away as possible.
@sundberg84, I'm not sure it's great to have antenna in that position for my "vertical" concept but I guess it's not a great idea any more to do that. Now that pin 1 is in a corner I have all the space in the world to put reed/hall switch next to the other side (on top of pro mini) and it will be much more in line with expected use of MYSX connector.
Antenna is on the side that's not supposed to be below daughter board so I don't think you can do better for that., I think it's much better than before, I'll be able to make a board that's more versatile than the current one with footprints for most common sensors.
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@sundberg84
not sure but on your preview, I see that you don't use any gnd planes?? Imho, just sayin for your users :), it would be better to have it, ideally unbroken+ vias, for impedance, emi, rf counterpoise, impedance matching rf feedline to sma depending on its length and how it's routed etc.., maybe a little google it
looks nice
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@scalz - yes it is true about ground plane! I did that one rev 4 or something but something broke the thing... so I have been hesitating since but I know all about the benefits - been reading and googling.
I have not made any traces or planes on the images - just component placement. I will give it another shot... maybe I have learned some since rev 4
Thanks for your feedback.
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@sundberg84 I forgot to mention that your nRF24 module goes very close to the MYSX. There is a risk a female receptacle might collide with the rf module if you are unlucky. And daughterboards will most likely be at least as wide as the courtyard of the MYSX.
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@sundberg84
yes not talking about your latest but saw that on your rev9 and 10 pics.
it will make it better, and it's good point for rf quality (range and msg fail)
placing planes is one of the first thing I usually do after component placements.. then it's easier to route as it solves many connection.keep the good work!
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@sundberg84 I have a "newby" question about how to use the Extra's part of the board. If I want to connect a DS18B20 sensor per example can I just solder it on the extra area and connect is with some wires to the pinout I need?
Asking this because I did this with the i2c sensor on the board discussed here. having a wire form the extras towards the arduino i2c pins directly. Later I discovered that the i2c pins are also on the board.
So how to deal with this?
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you can add a wire to the I2C pins, in your case you just need a short wire to a digital pin that are just next to the Extra area
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@gohan said in
Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors:you can add a wire to the I2C pins, in your case you just need a short wire to a digital pin that are just next to the Extra area
Ok. And if attaching a DS18B20 I have a pull up resistor soldered on the board. Than it is also just the digital pin I need from the board? D3 I think?
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@mr_sensor with a DS18B20 temp sensor I just solder it to the MysX pins (D3, Gnd and VCC) directly and populate the resistor for D3.
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@sundberg84 Yes thanks I did so. But do not get any temp read out? Have al in space also the 4,7 k resistor.
this is my sketch:
[code] /** * The MySensors Arduino library handles the wireless radio link and protocol * between your home built sensors/actuators and HA controller of choice. * The sensors forms a self healing radio network with optional repeaters. Each * repeater and gateway builds a routing tables in EEPROM which keeps track of the * network topology allowing messages to be routed to nodes. * * Created by Henrik Ekblad <henrik.ekblad@mysensors.org> * Copyright (C) 2013-2015 Sensnology AB * Full contributor list: https://github.com/mysensors/Arduino/graphs/contributors * * Documentation: http://www.mysensors.org * Support Forum: http://forum.mysensors.org * * This program is free software; you can redistribute it and/or * modify it under the terms of the GNU General Public License * version 2 as published by the Free Software Foundation. * ******************************* * * REVISION HISTORY * Version 1.0: Henrik EKblad * Version 1.1 - 2016-07-20: Converted to MySensors v2.0 and added various improvements - Torben Woltjen (mozzbozz) * * DESCRIPTION * This sketch provides an example of how to implement a humidity/temperature * * Dallas temperature sensor DS18B20 * * For more information, please visit: * http://www.mysensors.org/build/humidity * HTU21D Humidity Sensor Hardware Connections (Breakoutboard to Arduino): -VCC = 3.3V -GND = GND -data = D3 met pcb 470 uf resistor */ #define MY_NODE_ID 4 #define MY_PARENT_NODE_ID 0 #define MY_PARENT_NODE_IS_STATIC // Enable debug prints #define MY_DEBUG // Enable and select radio type attached #define MY_RADIO_NRF24 //#define MY_RADIO_RFM69 //#define MY_RS485 #include <MySensors.h> #include <OneWire.h> //#include <Wire.h> #include <SPI.h> #include <DallasTemperature.h> // Force sending an update of the temperature after n sensor reads, so a controller showing the // timestamp of the last update doesn't show something like 3 hours in the unlikely case, that // the value didn't change since; // i.e. the sensor would force sending an update every UPDATE_INTERVAL*FORCE_UPDATE_N_READS [ms] //static const uint8_t FORCE_UPDATE_N_READS = 10; #define COMPARE_TEMP 1 // Send temperature only if changed? 1 = Yes 0 = No #define ONE_WIRE_BUS 3 // Pin where dallase sensor is connected #define MAX_ATTACHED_DS18B20 16 //unsigned long SLEEP_TIME = 30000; // Sleep time between reads (in milliseconds) OneWire oneWire(ONE_WIRE_BUS); // Setup a oneWire instance to communicate with any OneWire devices (not just Maxim/Dallas temperature ICs) DallasTemperature sensors(&oneWire); // Pass the oneWire reference to Dallas Temperature. float lastTemperature[MAX_ATTACHED_DS18B20]; int numSensors=0; bool receivedConfig = false; bool metric = true; #define CHILD_ID_TEMP 0 #define CHILD_ID_BATTERY 1 #define CHILD_ID_VOLT 2 //#define CHILD_ID_PRCNT 3 //float lastTemp; //float lastHum; //uint8_t nNoUpdatesTemp; //uint8_t nNoUpdatesHum; //boolean metric = true; void presentation() { // Send the Sketch Version Information to the Gateway sendSketchInfo("Temperature Sensor", "1.1"); // Register all sensors to gw (they will be created as child devices) // present(CHILD_ID_HUM, S_HUM); present(CHILD_ID_TEMP, S_TEMP); present(CHILD_ID_BATTERY, S_MULTIMETER); //metric = getControllerConfig().isMetric; // Fetch the number of attached temperature sensors numSensors = sensors.getDeviceCount(); // Present all sensors to controller for (int i=0; i<numSensors && i<MAX_ATTACHED_DS18B20; i++) { present(i, S_TEMP); } } int BATTERY_SENSE_PIN = A0; // select the input pin for the battery sense point unsigned long SLEEP_TIME = 60000; // Sleep time between reads (in milliseconds) 60000 static int oldBatteryPcnt = 0; //Create an instance of the object MyMessage msg(0,V_TEMP); //MyMessage msgHum(CHILD_ID_HUM, V_HUM); MyMessage msgTemp(CHILD_ID_TEMP, V_TEMP); MyMessage msgBattery(CHILD_ID_BATTERY, V_VOLTAGE); //MyMessage msgBattery(CHILD_ID_BATTERY, V_PRC); void setup() { // Startup up the OneWire library sensors.begin(); // use the 1.1 V internal reference #if defined(__AVR_ATmega2560__) analogReference(INTERNAL1V1); #else analogReference(INTERNAL); #endif // requestTemperatures() will not block current thread sensors.setWaitForConversion(false); } void loop() { // Fetch temperatures from Dallas sensors sensors.requestTemperatures(); // query conversion time and sleep until conversion completed int16_t conversionTime = sensors.millisToWaitForConversion(sensors.getResolution()); // sleep() call can be replaced by wait() call if node need to process incoming messages (or if node is repeater) sleep(conversionTime); // Read temperatures and send them to controller for (int i=0; i<numSensors && i<MAX_ATTACHED_DS18B20; i++) { // Fetch and round temperature to one decimal float temperature = static_cast<float>(static_cast<int>((getControllerConfig().isMetric?sensors.getTempCByIndex(i):sensors.getTempFByIndex(i)) * 10.)) / 10.; // Only send data if temperature has changed and no error #if COMPARE_TEMP == 1 if (lastTemperature[i] != temperature && temperature != -127.00 && temperature != 85.00) { #else if (temperature != -127.00 && temperature != 85.00) { #endif // Send in the new temperature send(msg.setSensor(i).set(temperature,1)); // Save new temperatures for next compare lastTemperature[i]=temperature; } } // some delay here delay(500); // get the battery Voltage int sensorValue = analogRead(BATTERY_SENSE_PIN); delay(500); #ifdef MY_DEBUG Serial.println(sensorValue); #endif // 1M, 470K divider across battery and using internal ADC ref of 1.1V // Sense point is bypassed with 0.1 uF cap to reduce noise at that point // ((1e6+470e3)/470e3)*1.1 = Vmax = 3.44 Volts // 3.44/1023 = Volts per bit = 0.003363075 int batteryPcnt = sensorValue / 10; #ifdef MY_DEBUG float batteryV = sensorValue * 0.003363075; Serial.print("Child ID "); Serial.print(CHILD_ID_BATTERY); Serial.print("Battery Voltage: "); Serial.print(batteryV); Serial.println(" V"); Serial.print("Battery Percent: "); Serial.print(batteryPcnt); Serial.println(" %"); #endif if (oldBatteryPcnt != batteryPcnt) { // Power up radio after sleep sendBatteryLevel(batteryPcnt); oldBatteryPcnt = batteryPcnt; } sleep(SLEEP_TIME); //sleep a bit } [/code]```
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|__/ 2.2.016 MCO:BGN:INIT NODE,CP=RNNNA---,VER=2.2.0
26 TSM:INIT
28 TSF:WUR:MS=0
34 TSM:INIT:TSP OK
36 TSM:INIT:STATID=4
38 TSF:SID:OK,ID=4
40 TSM:FPAR
43 TSM:FPAR:STATP=0
45 TSM:ID
47 TSM:ID:OK
47 TSM:UPL
53 TSF:MSG:SEND,4-4-0-0,s=255,c=3,t=24,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:1
67 TSF:MSG:READ,0-0-4,s=255,c=3,t=25,pt=1,l=1,sg=0:1
71 TSF:MSG:PONG RECV,HP=1
75 TSM:UPL:OK
77 TSM:READY:ID=4,PAR=0,DIS=1
116 !TSF:MSG:SEND,4-4-0-0,s=255,c=3,t=15,pt=6,l=2,sg=0,ft=0,st=NACK:0100
2125 TSF:MSG:SEND,4-4-0-0,s=255,c=0,t=17,pt=0,l=5,sg=0,ft=1,st=OK:2.2.0
2138 TSF:MSG:SEND,4-4-0-0,s=255,c=3,t=6,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:0
4177 TSF:MSG:SEND,4-4-0-0,s=255,c=3,t=11,pt=0,l=18,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:Temperature Sensor
4196 TSF:MSG:SEND,4-4-0-0,s=255,c=3,t=12,pt=0,l=3,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:1.1
4214 TSF:MSG:SEND,4-4-0-0,s=0,c=0,t=6,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:
4227 TSF:MSG:SEND,4-4-0-0,s=1,c=0,t=30,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:
4235 MCO:REG:REQ
4237 TSF:MSG:SEND,4-4-0-0,s=255,c=3,t=26,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:2
6246 TSF:MSG:SEND,4-4-0-0,s=255,c=3,t=26,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:2
8255 TSF:MSG:SEND,4-4-0-0,s=255,c=3,t=26,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:2
10264 TSF:MSG:SEND,4-4-0-0,s=255,c=3,t=26,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:2
12273 MCO:BGN:STP
12275 MCO:BGN:INIT OK,TSP=1
12279 MCO:SLP:MS=94,SMS=0,I1=255,M1=255,I2=255,M2=255
12285 TSF:TDI:TSL
12288 MCO:SLP:WUP=-1
12290 TSF:TRI:TSB
915
Child ID 1Battery Voltage: 3.08 V
Battery Percent: 91 %
13297 TSF:MSG:SEND,4-4-0-0,s=255,c=3,t=0,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:91
13305 MCO:SLP:MS=60000,SMS=0,I1=255,M1=255,I2=255,M2=255
13312 TSF:TDI:TSL
13314 MCO:SLP:WUP=-1
13316 TSF:TRI:TSB
13320 MCO:SLP:MS=94,SMS=0,I1=255,M1=255,I2=255,M2=255
13326 TSF:TDI:TSL
13328 MCO:SLP:WUP=-1
13330 TSF:TRI:TSB
826
Child ID 1Battery Voltage: 2.78 V
Battery Percent: 82 %
14340 TSF:MSG:SEND,4-4-0-0,s=255,c=3,t=0,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:82
14346 MCO:SLP:MS=60000,SMS=0,I1=255,M1=255,I2=255,M2=255
14352 TSF:TDI:TSL
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@mr_sensor - it looks ok except the temp sensor. Hard to say but doulecheck your wiring!
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@mr_sensor looks right. Upload a sketch without MySensors from the temp library
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@sundberg84 I run the "single" sketch from temp library and this is what I get:
Dallas Temperature IC Control Library Demo Locating devices...Found 0 devices. Parasite power is: OFF Unable to find address for Device 0 Device 0 Address: 0000000000000000 Device 0 Resolution: 0 Requesting temperatures...DONE Temp C: -127.00 Temp F: -196.60 Requesting temperatures...DONE Temp C: -127.00 Temp F: -196.60 Requesting temperatures...DONE Temp C: -127.00 Temp F: -196.60 Requesting temperatures...DONE Temp C: -127.00 Temp F: -196.60 Requesting temperatures...DONE Temp C: -127.00 Temp F: -196.60 Requesting temperatures...DONE Temp C: -127.00 Temp F: -196.60 Requesting temperatures...DONE Temp C: -127.00 Temp F: -196.60 Requesting temperatures...DONE Temp C: -127.00 Temp F: -196.60 Requesting temperatures...DONE Temp C: -127.00 Temp F: -196.60 Requesting temperatures...DONE Temp C: -127.00 Temp F: -196.60 Requesting temperatures...DONE Temp C: -127.00 Temp F: -196.60
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@mr_sensor Lets see your code
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@mr_sensor ok, so either it's not wired correctly (but it looks good), or it's a sensor failure or it's a failure between the sensor and the Arduino.
You can try to measure continuity from sensor to VCC / Gnd and D3 on the atmega.
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@mr_sensor And show a pic of the bottom of the board with the sensor.
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@dbemowsk said in
Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors:@mr_sensor And show a pic of the bottom of the board with the sensor.
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In general I'd say that more soldering practice is needed
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@gohan Not a solder problem I think. This is no short on the board it is just the angel of the picture hiding the gap underneath.
tried the same set-up with an other dallas sensor. still the same result.
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@mr_sensor - still, very strange. I have the exact same setup and it works without issues.
Try to do a continuity test between the middle pin of the sensor (touch the leg, not any solder-point) and D3 on the atmega328 chip (Do not power the node while doing this).
Try to do the same continuity test between the middle leg on the sensor and GND + VCC on the PCB.
Also, please report back the voltage between VCC and GND on the sensor. (Same, measure on the legs)
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feeding too much solder into the joint before you've heated up both sides, and melting the solder on the iron instead of the pins or board before those parts are hot enough.
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@mr_sensor said in
Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors:@gohan Not a solder problem I think. This is no short on the board it is just the angel of the picture hiding the gap underneath.
tried the same set-up with an other dallas sensor. still the same result.Still you should read and watch a few videos on YouTube about how to make good solder joints, because your board is not really pretty at the moment
It's not difficult to make proper "volcano" shaped solder joints when you have learnt the few tricks you need, and it avoids a lot of hair pulling!
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@sundberg84 I did measure some things. Also replaced the arduino to be sure that it was working (did nt make a difference)
I found 3,3 volt between vcc and gnd on the sensor. Also between the data-pin of the sensor and the arduino there is continuity.
The middle leg on the sensor and GND + VCC on the PCB is not resulting in any continuity(I am not really sure if I did measure it in the right way. It is a bit hard to get gnd + vcc on the multimeter pin together).
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have you tried all your setup on a breadboard?
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@mr_sensor - ok, then we can exclude PCB and wiring issues. Next is either software or sensor/pro mini failure. I would re-install the library or try anohter one as first thing to do because you said you have tried another sensor and pro mini right?
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@sundberg84 I tried with other libraries, without success. Also changed the sensor for a new one, without any success. Only thing that made me wondering, now the sensor is on 3,3 volt? When looking at the net for samples, etc. some of them refer to 5volt? So could that be the problem here? Not providing 5 volt to the sensor?
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@mr_sensor - no 3.3v is enough:
This is really strange... can you confirm it is the right markings on your TO-92 package (actually a temp sensor)?
You could try changing the pin to exclude a pro mini failure (if you have not swapped that one already)
#define ONE_WIRE_BUS 3 // Pin where dallase sensor is connected
#define MAX_ATTACHED_DS18B20 16You can also test my Ds18b20 code from here but you need to change from RFM69 radio to Nrf24l01+ radio,
https://github.com/sundberg84/HomeAutomation/blob/master/Sketches MySensors RFM69 radio/RFM_BeerCooler_Temp/RFM_BeerCooler_Temp.inoI would also try a bare pro mini + the temp sensor + resistor on a breadboard powered with 3.3v from ftdi adapter.
I also need you to doublecheck the resistance on that pull-up resistor:
Im having a hard time to see the exact colors but it that is Yellow, Brown, Gold, Gold that means you have a 4.1 ohm resistor to VCC which is pretty much a short and might have broken the temp sensor. Use a 10k or 56k.
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@sundberg84 Coincidentally I yesterday had a FTDI powered 3v3 Pro-Mini hooked to a RJ11 socket to test and retrieve addresses using the OneWire.h from two plugged DS18B20 devices to add to those in the chain here already, the resistor was 4k7. The chain of now 12 devices also uses a 4k7 and continues to work flawlessly.
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@sundberg84 Ok did try with just the bare pro mini + the temp sensor + resistor on a breadboard powered with 3.3v from ftdi adapter.
And guess what? Than I get the temperature reading So why is it not working on the board than? I Will check the soldering again and see if I can solder a new board.Dallas Temperature IC Control Library Demo Locating devices...Found 1 devices. Parasite power is: OFF Device 0 Address: 28FF5849011704D8 Device 0 Resolution: 9 Requesting temperatures...DONE Temp C: 21.00 Temp F: 69.80 Requesting temperatures...DONE Temp C: 21.00 Temp F: 69.80 Requesting temperatures...DONE Temp C: 21.00 Temp F: 69.80 Requesting temperatures...DONE Temp C: 21.00 Temp F: 69.80 Requesting temperatures...DONE Temp C: 21.00 Temp F: 69.80 Requesting temperatures...DONE Temp C: 21.00 Temp F: 69.80 Requesting temperatures...DONE ``` So both sensor and arduino are working?
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Promising! Then you know that hardware is ok... you just have to continue debugging.
Use the same hardware and software for the PCB. It should work just fine! (I have several working for years now).
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Hi All,
Thanks Sundberg84 for creating a board where I can knock out sensors in the matter of minutes instead of hours.
That being said, I actually spent many hours on the weekend trying to get my first board to work so I thought that I'd share so it could benefit others.
I was setting up a 3v3 board with 2 x AA batteries with the battery pad jumpered and using the 3v3 booster. I triple checked the board for continuity.
I was suffering from !TSM:FPAR:FAIL messages when firing up the node using the FTDI adaptor. I found that the board didn't work when both the battery and FTDI were supplying power.
Here are my lessons:
- You need to have a battery connected. This is required to power the radio, as it radio isn't powered by the FTDI adapter
- You need to remove power from the FTDI adapter. I couldn't disable power on my FTDI adapter so I had to use jumper wires for CTS, DTR, RXD, TXD, and GND between the adapter and the ProMini.
Thanks again, and I look forward to knocking out some nodes super quick.
Cheers,
Simon.
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@dbemowsk what I'm worried about is the booster so close to the radio. What do you think @dbemowsk @scalz @Nca78 ?
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how about swapping the Extra and Booster section? It makes it cleaner to connect the extra pins to the pro mini.
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@sundberg84 i think you already know the answer
(not great regarding emi radiation for example,especially with cheap regulators and inductors.., one downside of relying on external parts,modules but i know your point it's for noobs..)
I seem to see another thing for your nrf ant, not sure if your nrf 24 goes outside the pcb,if it doesn't then this means you have gnd pour under the ant, not great too in this case
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@gohan & @sundberg84 For that matter, what about just swapping the Bat.measurer and the booster. You are going to get interference with the inductor being directly next to the antenna.
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Thanks guys! (@scalz @gohan @dbemowsk !)
I think I will relocate the booster... should have thought about that before.
The NRF antenna goes outside the PCB just like rev 9 so no ground plain for the antenna in normal cases. I might revert it back to allow the PCB to be in range for all directions. Good point.I will start with to swap extra and booster to get as much space in between the antenna and inductor.
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Something like this...
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Would something like this be possible? It would give users that little bit of extra room in the proto area.
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Hi all!
This has now been update to Rev 10.
New revision has been sent to PCB manufacturer but It will take some days for them to update their Gerber. (When you order, make sure it says M.Rev 6!
Openhardware page has been updated, let me know if you find anything strange.
RFM69 version will be updated soon as well.
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Can you please share design of version 9 of the Easy PCB NRF24 edition. I bought 10 pieces a while ago but just decided to use couple. Thank you.
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@apl2017 what kind of info are you looking for ? Schematics ?
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Just schematic and board layout, exactly what you placed, if possible in a bit better resolution. Thanks a lot!
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@apl2017 traveling for my work until next week but will post then.
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@sundberg84 I just finished my first battery sensor node based on the Easy PCB Rev 9. I have two questions i hope you can help me with:
The first is about the battery measurement. Because i didn't have a 0.1 uf lying around i used an 0.2 uf capacitor. I am using the following script to measure the battery.
//========================= // BATTERY VOLTAGE DIVIDER SETUP // 1M, 470K divider across battery and using internal ADC ref of 1.1V // Sense point is bypassed with 0.1 uF cap to reduce noise at that point // ((1e6+470e3)/470e3)*1.1 = Vmax = 3.44 Volts // 3.44/1023 = Volts per bit = 0.003363075 #define VBAT_PER_BITS 0.003363075 #define VMIN 1.9 // Vmin (radio Min Volt)=1.9V (564v) #define VMAX 3.0 // Vmax = (2xAA bat)=3.0V (892v) int batteryPcnt = 0; // Calc value for battery % int batLoop = 0; // Loop to help calc average int batArray[3]; // Array to store value for average calc. int BATTERY_SENSE_PIN = A0; // select the input pin for the battery sense point //========================= // Calculate the battery in % float Vbat = sensorValue * VBAT_PER_BITS; int batteryPcnt = static_cast<int>(((Vbat-VMIN)/(VMAX-VMIN))*100.); Serial.print("Battery percent: "); Serial.print(batteryPcnt); Serial.println(" %");Do i need to change anything in the formula? Because i getting reading around the 130%
Requesting temperature...DONE Temperatuur : 26.62 Degrees C 11935 TSF:MSG:SEND,25-25-0-0,s=5,c=1,t=0,pt=7,l=5,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:26.6 Battery percent: 131 % Battery Voltage: 3.35 V Sleep... 12945 MCO:SLP:MS=900000,SMS=0,I1=0,M1=1,I2=254,M2=1 12955 TSF:TDI:TSLIf i use the following method:
//---- // 1M, 470K divider across battery and using internal ADC ref of 1.1V // Sense point is bypassed with 0.1 uF cap to reduce noise at that point // ((1e6+470e3)/470e3)*1.1 = Vmax = 3.44 Volts // 3.44/1023 = Volts per bit = 0.003363075 float batteryV = sensorValue * 0.003363075; int batteryPcntNEW = sensorValue / 10; Serial.print("Battery percent: "); Serial.print(batteryPcntNEW); Serial.println(" %"); //----I am getting: (this is expected, because batteries are new)
Battery percent: 99 % Sleep... 12945 MCO:SLP:MS=900000,SMS=0,I1=0,M1=1,I2=254,M2=1 12955 TSF:TDI:TSLMy second question is about casing: any tips on which case to use which fit your board and a battery pack? and is as small as possible? Do you perhaps have links of your favourite (Chinese) sellers?
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@mister_ik said in
Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors:@sundberg84 I just finished my first battery sensor node based on the Easy PCB Rev 9. I have two questions i hope you can help me with:
The first is about the battery measurement. Because i didn't have a 0.1 uf lying around i used an 0.2 uf capacitor. I am using the following script to measure the battery.
Do i need to change anything in the formula? Because i getting reading around the 130%
Hello, this is normal as your maximum voltage is set at 3V, while initial voltage of an alkaline AA/AAA cell can be a bit over 1.6V. But voltage will quickly drop toward 1.5V (much faster than remaining capacity), so the best instead of changing the maximum voltage is to check the value of batteryPcnt and if it's over 100, just set it to 100.
Make sure the VBAT_PER_BITS makes you read a voltage that matches the voltage you read with your multimeter, else fix it. Each Atmega is different so you need to calibrate each board.For the capacitor it's not a problem, it's just made to stabilize the voltage as it's very sensible to electrical noise. Twice the value will be good enough for this job
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@Nca78 thanks for the help/answer.
About the case I'm using some plastic electronic cases from my hardware shop but @ openhardware you will find some links to 3d projects.Let us know @Mister_ik if you need anything else.
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No sign of the new revision yet:
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@mickecarlsson - not on the RFM69 version, no. PCBway has updated the NRF24 version so a good sign.
Something went wrong with the update of the RFM69 version so I had to activate it 21hours ago:
Lets hope PCBway picks this up today.
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@sundberg84
OK, good news. I will check it tomorrow and hopefully order a batch (or two).
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Still no rev 6 on itead or pcbway for rfm69 version
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@mickecarlsson no something went wrong so Rev 5 is ok to order! This is easy rev 10!
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Hello @sundberg84
What if feeding a Pro Mini 3.3V (EasyPCB Nrf24l01+ edition rev 10) with regulated power on RAW. (I have 5 VDC). I guess I can feed the radio via the VCC terminal instead of using an external voltage regulator. Can the EasyPCB be used in such a setup?
Edit: To answer my own question. I should RTFM
It states clearly that:
"(If you are using regulated 3.3v, use 5v instructions but skip the voltage regulator and bypass this with a jumper between Vin and Vout"
Thanks anyway!
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@รอเร-อ I have a similar need, but not exactly the same.
My power route is:
18650 Lipo (2.7 - 4.2 V) -> TP4056 (charger) -> Booster (5V) -> Raw pin of pro mini 3.3V -> Vcc of pro mini 3.3V -> Radio (NRF24)In my case the easy newbie pcb is not directly suitable because the Vout of the Booster is connected to Vcc instead of raw.
So my idea is to use a modified version of the easy newbie pcb with the schematic posted here
in order to have more flexibility in the power options.Actually I don't have the skills to design a pcb, but maybe, if the idea is good, someone else could design it.
This schematic is compatible with all the power options actually supported by the easy newbie pcb, and supports also new possibility, simply changing a couple of jumpers
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Hello @franz-unix, can't you just bend the output pin of the booster at 90° and solder a wire from it to the raw pin ?
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@nca78 Yes it should work.
If I connect the output of the tp4056 to the gnd and reg input of the screw terminal of the easy newbie pcb and then I run a wire from the Vout of the booster to the raw input of the screw terminal, the final result is also quite clean and it is not necessary to solder the wire directly on the pro mini.
I think that, in this case, the reg jumper must be NOT shortened.
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Hi,
I ordered 10 PCBs using "Order from PCBWay" button. It only asked me about PayPal card and din't require any registration on PCBWay. So, everything looks good, PayPal transaction is completed. Can somebody tell me please how can I track it? Probably I'm missing tracking option somewhere... Thank you!
P.S.
Cant wait to try it out.
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@zelen I'm not sure. You didn't receive any email? I normally get a email once they are finished and shipped with tracking.
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@sundberg84 thank you for clarification. I expected email right after making an order. So, I will wait for finishing production and shipment.
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I use some of old rev8 boards. I have noticed that I use a ceramic capacitor instead of an electric capacitor compared to the images for the battery measurement. Does it matter? Or should I replace the ceramic capacitor (104) with an electric capacitor?
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@harrdy should work just fine.
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@harrdy remember to take a few readings and average out the battery value
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Hello @sundberg84, I would like to buy the Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors but I have a few questions
I want to use it the 5V Arduino Pro mini not the 3V version
I also want to use the battery monitor
Is it ok or should I modify "something"
Also all the pcbs have the battery "expansion: or not?
Thanks, Emmanuel
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Why would you want to use the 5v arduino on batteries?
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I want to use it the 5V Arduino Pro mini not the 3V version
Then you need to use the nrf24l01+ version, that works fine - the RFM69 version needs a 3.3v Pro Mini only.
I also want to use the battery monitor
As @gohan said - don't use batteries on a 5v node. Use a 3.3v because it will use up your batteries very quickly. See the guides i have on openhardware for different modes on my PCB.
Is it ok or should I modify "something"
Also all the pcbs have the battery "expansion: or not?"something" is hard to understand, you can modify i many different ways depending on what you want to do. All the basic "modifications" can be found if you read the project page on openhardware.io
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@sundberg84 thanks for your response
If I don't care about battery consumption can I still view and use the battery monitor to be alarmed when battery is empty?
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@manos yes you can.
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Hello @sundberg84. I watched your video 9+ 'MySensors Battery Node 2xAA - EasyPCB (Nrf24l01+)and Temp Sensor' . I have two questions about this video:
- I noticed you connected the tempsensor to the extra prototype part of the board, but i could not see in the video how you connected signal pin of the sensor to the arduino.
- you added a resistor to D5 Temp/Hum, but you did not add the sensor to the mysX2.4 part of the board. Why is that?
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@mister_ik said in
Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors:Hello @sundberg84. I watched your video 9+ 'MySensors Battery Node 2xAA - EasyPCB (Nrf24l01+)and Temp Sensor' . I have two questions about this video:
- I noticed you connected the tempsensor to the extra prototype part of the board, but i could not see in the video how you connected signal pin of the sensor to the arduino.
- you added a resistor to D5 Temp/Hum, but you did not add the sensor to the mysX2.4 part of the board. Why is that?
I connect it on the back with a normal wire to D5 resistor input. So both of your observations above are correct.
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@sundberg84 yes i thought so, but i want to make sure. I have some Rev 10 boards and i was working on a node for my bathroom with a DHT11 sensor. I had some problems with it, therefore watching your video. But it looks like the step up booster was not working correctly. Unfortunately removing the booster i damaged the board because with a new booster the arduino won't get power any more. So this board only works without the booster (and reg jumper connected). Any idea how long this setup (with removed led on arduino) will last on batteries?
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@mister_ik - well, 2-4 weeks more or less unless you reprogram the fuses and bootloader.
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@sundberg84 ooh that is not very long ..i hoped for a couple of months....but then I should consider this board as depreciated and build a new one and use this for development. Thanks for your reaction.
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@mister_ik you can always use wired to repair the damaged tracks.
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@sundberg84, thanks so much for this board, I bought 10 of them. This has made my sensor projects much easier and they look better too! I think I will get some of the RFM69 version next.
I have a lot of gel lead acid batteries (the 7.2AH type often used in UPSs), and I have been running an earlier prototype off that. I have now just changed over to your board and this is how I modified it to work the way I wanted:
- Cut the track circled
- Hard wired from the regulator side of the battery jumper to VCC on the Pro Mini
- Bridged the booster In to Out
- Changed the battery measuring resistors to 12k/180k for greater range
This enabled me to run the board off 12V, keep an eye on the battery voltage, and run the rest from the LE33 regulator. It seems to be managing so far, with 3 x DS18B20 temperature sensors. I'm monitoring the fridge outside, inside and freezer temperatures with this module.
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@ajay100 - Hi!
Really nice to see you found your way of using my PCB, its just the way I want it
I tried to follow along here, are you using the LEd33 to convert 12v to 3.3v? I guess you tried RAW and the voltage regulator on your pro mini and found out it was bad due to cheap clones?If you cut the trace just above the volt.reg and put a jumper from REG to Vin on the Volt reg, and added a jumper from Bat (top) to Reg (top) you would also feed everything with whatever comes out from the LE33.
(I think)
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@sundberg84, I've just tried it and that is a better solution than mine for running everything from the LE33. Thanks for taking the time to work that out!
Cheers - Andrew
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Hey @sundberg84 I just saw the new rev.10, congratulations on the upgrade!
I still have a bunch of rev 9, do you happen to have images/manual for previous version somewhere? link or a pdf?
Thanks!
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@dakipro - sorry, everything was saved here on oh.
Is there something special you need? I can maybe send it to you, like schematics or what are you looking for?
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Zip files with old revisions get stored on openhardware.io but is not exposed in any good way for the end user today. They're only accessible for the manufacturers.
I will see if I can show it somehow. Maybe a new tab on the project page listing old revisions with download links.
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Ok, revisions now available. E.g:
https://www.openhardware.io/view/4/EasyNewbie-PCB-for-MySensors#tabs-revisions
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Thank you @hek , I think this might be useful feature
I however do not see any data in there, is it something for project owner to allow?
I tried both as guest and as logged inn, I do see the rows, but no data in fields, screenshot:
@sundberg84 nothing special about now, I figured it out based on older projects. But since I still have about dosen of boards, I will probably need documentation few years from now, so was just hoping to have it somewhere easily available
Like a downloaded pdf or something
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Thanks for reporting @dakipro. It seems to have been a caching issue in the service. Should not appear again.
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Me too i still have a bunch of rev 9. Where can i have all the old informations for this rev? I need to see the old webpage with instructions. Thank you !
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Thanks @hek it is certainly helpful. However the most powerful information is actually in the description page, about how to use the board, how to wire it up for different use cases etc. I suppose a previous version of the information tab is not available?
If it could be archived (maybe even linked somewhere) it would be really helpful!
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The documentation at the time of the created revision is actually included in the zip as README.md (markdown).
You should be able to view the file properly formatted in an md-editor or online using I.e.. https://dillinger.io/Uploaded images was never included in the revision dumps unfortunately.
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Ooops, my bad then
I was pretty sure I checked readme.md file, but apparently I got confused.
Thanks a million!
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I am also looking for documentation for Rev. 9 that I purchased. The link with revisions that was provided: https://www.openhardware.io/view/4/EasyNewbie-PCB-for-MySensors#tabs-revisions
lists revisions 1-7, but not 9. All I need is readable schematic and PCB layout in PDF. Thanks.
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@apl2017 I don't know where the revision numbering comes from, but I believe the rev9 you are talking about is called rev5 on the revisions tab.
Rev 10 was created 2018-06-04. That date matches with rev6 on the revisions tab.
Perhaps @sundberg84 knows why there are two sets of revision numbers?
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What software was used to develop this board? My latest KiCad does not read schematic from Rev. 5 ZIP file. All I need is a simple PDF...
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@apl2017 - Rev 10 = Kicad, but all below is Eagles.
This is Rev 9, Nrf24l01+
@mfalkvidd - the rev tab in openhardware is the revision for the manufacturer. This doesnt match, because it starts at 0 and ticks up. If you have a board with rev 1 but make a small change without updating the revision number but still wants to upgrade it to the pcb manufacturer you need a new revision for them... so thats causes the confusion. But i think @hek named it M.Rev (Manufacturer revision) to try to keep them apart.
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Sorry to bother you again (3rd time), still waiting for readable PDF of Rev. 9 schematic and board layout. Thank you
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@apl2017 - why pdf? The image above is just as good? It wont present any other info?
The reason why I ask is that I dont have eagles installed anymore... so its a bit of hassle for me.
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sundberg84 Don't bother, I went through the hassle, downloaded Eagle and created readable PDF
