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💬 Battery Powered Sensors

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  • R Offline
    R Offline
    ricorico94
    wrote on last edited by ricorico94
    #181

    Thanks to another arduino forum, I found what was wrong.. probably indeed a stability of power due to step-up converter. In that forum, they were explaining that receiving is more sensitive to power noise than sending data and that in such case, it's good to add a 100uF capacitor on 3.3V and GRD of radio module. I tried 100uF and it worked.. I then tried with 47uF and it's still working. (I had tried with 0.47uF and it was not working at all)

    In the "Connect Radio" guidelines, of Mysensors, it is stated that a capacitor of 0,47-47uF is improving reliability but that "the exact size usually doesn't matter" which was misleading in my case.
    Could I suggest to rephrase that sentence into "the exact size usually doesn't matter, but you can try 47uF if 0.47uF still doesn't work, especially if sending data works well and not receiving data." ?

    Edit for Erratum: please read 4.7-47uF instead of 0,47uF-47uF. Tests I had made were with 4.7uF as well, not 0.47uF
    br,
    Ricorico94

    mfalkviddM 1 Reply Last reply
    1
    • R ricorico94

      Thanks to another arduino forum, I found what was wrong.. probably indeed a stability of power due to step-up converter. In that forum, they were explaining that receiving is more sensitive to power noise than sending data and that in such case, it's good to add a 100uF capacitor on 3.3V and GRD of radio module. I tried 100uF and it worked.. I then tried with 47uF and it's still working. (I had tried with 0.47uF and it was not working at all)

      In the "Connect Radio" guidelines, of Mysensors, it is stated that a capacitor of 0,47-47uF is improving reliability but that "the exact size usually doesn't matter" which was misleading in my case.
      Could I suggest to rephrase that sentence into "the exact size usually doesn't matter, but you can try 47uF if 0.47uF still doesn't work, especially if sending data works well and not receiving data." ?

      Edit for Erratum: please read 4.7-47uF instead of 0,47uF-47uF. Tests I had made were with 4.7uF as well, not 0.47uF
      br,
      Ricorico94

      mfalkviddM Offline
      mfalkviddM Offline
      mfalkvidd
      Mod
      wrote on last edited by
      #182

      @ricorico94 great input, thanks! I have updated the page, except that I changed 0.47uF to 4.7uF in your text since the recommendation is 4.7 - 47)

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • R Offline
        R Offline
        ricorico94
        wrote on last edited by
        #183

        oups, indeed. I'll edit my post as well to avoid confusion as well. Thank you for your support, I appreciated a lot.
        By the way, I could never find how to get the logs in my gateway installed on raspPI. But that's another post. ;-)

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • M Offline
          M Offline
          Maschler
          wrote on last edited by Maschler
          #184

          Hello together,

          I'm just trying to get the voltage measurement to work. But there is something wrong. I built everything as shown above and uploaded the program to the Arduino pro mini. The only thing I changed is the sensing Pin A0 -> A3
          In debug mode I see the following (the supply voltage is constant 3.3V):

          Battery Voltage: 3.12 V
          Battery percent: 92 %
          
          Battery Voltage: 2.40 V
          Battery percent: 71 %
          
          Battery Voltage: 2.32 V
          Battery percent: 69 %
          
          Battery Voltage: 2.31 V
          Battery percent: 68 %
          
          Battery Voltage: 2.29 V
          Battery percent: 68 %
          
          Battery Voltage: 2.30 V
          Battery percent: 68 %
          
          Battery Voltage: 2.33 V
          Battery percent: 69 %
          

          What could be the reason? That doesn't make sense to me.

          zboblamontZ 1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • M Maschler

            Hello together,

            I'm just trying to get the voltage measurement to work. But there is something wrong. I built everything as shown above and uploaded the program to the Arduino pro mini. The only thing I changed is the sensing Pin A0 -> A3
            In debug mode I see the following (the supply voltage is constant 3.3V):

            Battery Voltage: 3.12 V
            Battery percent: 92 %
            
            Battery Voltage: 2.40 V
            Battery percent: 71 %
            
            Battery Voltage: 2.32 V
            Battery percent: 69 %
            
            Battery Voltage: 2.31 V
            Battery percent: 68 %
            
            Battery Voltage: 2.29 V
            Battery percent: 68 %
            
            Battery Voltage: 2.30 V
            Battery percent: 68 %
            
            Battery Voltage: 2.33 V
            Battery percent: 69 %
            

            What could be the reason? That doesn't make sense to me.

            zboblamontZ Offline
            zboblamontZ Offline
            zboblamont
            wrote on last edited by
            #185

            @maschler You may be picking up noise which will give an unsteady voltage during the ADC sample.
            A 0.1uF electrolytic cap between the analogue pin and ground in parallel with the resistor should stabilise it sufficiently.
            I use this arrangement with much higher resistances which are known to increase noise, the capacitor maintains a steady voltage sufficient for the ADC sample period.
            One thing worth checking with a multimeter is what the actual voltage is on supply and on the pin. The 1.1v bandgap is sometimes not exactly 1.1v, particularly on clones. Once you know the two values you can modify the ratio and you should get reliable and accurate readings.

            1 Reply Last reply
            1
            • gohanG Offline
              gohanG Offline
              gohan
              Mod
              wrote on last edited by
              #186

              The 1.1v reference could be + or - 10%, but a small ceramic cap on near the analog pin should help to stabilize the reading. Also taking 3 measures and then sending the average is a good way of minimizing errors

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • alowhumA Offline
                alowhumA Offline
                alowhum
                Plugin Developer
                wrote on last edited by
                #187

                I'm looking for a USB rechargeable battery that can deal with very low power drain, so that I can power an Arduino Nano. Most power packs will not work with very small currents - they turn themselves off. So ideally it should not be too clever..

                Does anybody have a favourite?

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • gohanG Offline
                  gohanG Offline
                  gohan
                  Mod
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #188

                  https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ESP32-ESP32S-For-Wemos-For-Raspberry-Pi-18650-Battery-Charge-Shield-Board-V3-Micro-USB-Port/32843629344.html

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • N Offline
                    N Offline
                    nekitoss
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #189

                    It would be great to add to this arctle that if you want to be battery powered outdoors with temperature below zero - you have to use lithium batteries (FR6 for AA) (yes, batteries, not li-ion accumulators!) (for example ultimate lithium energizer, also could be found lithium batteries from other vendors), because Alkaline (LR6 for AA) will be frozen and loose their capacity heavily. If i remember it is >50% at -10 C and death at -20 C. Same problem for li-ion accumulators - when liquid is frozen - electrons are stucked...
                    Also would be great to add some link about battery/accumulator types, advanteges and disadvantages, but i have no links in english, easy-to-read and in one place...

                    But i have very great link about battery-powering that really should be added here, but in advanced section:
                    http://www.gammon.com.au/power

                    zboblamontZ 1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • N nekitoss

                      It would be great to add to this arctle that if you want to be battery powered outdoors with temperature below zero - you have to use lithium batteries (FR6 for AA) (yes, batteries, not li-ion accumulators!) (for example ultimate lithium energizer, also could be found lithium batteries from other vendors), because Alkaline (LR6 for AA) will be frozen and loose their capacity heavily. If i remember it is >50% at -10 C and death at -20 C. Same problem for li-ion accumulators - when liquid is frozen - electrons are stucked...
                      Also would be great to add some link about battery/accumulator types, advanteges and disadvantages, but i have no links in english, easy-to-read and in one place...

                      But i have very great link about battery-powering that really should be added here, but in advanced section:
                      http://www.gammon.com.au/power

                      zboblamontZ Offline
                      zboblamontZ Offline
                      zboblamont
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #190

                      @nekitoss Not sure where you got your information but my Gas Node is on it's second year running on the same two Varta AA alkalines and been down to -20 on more than a few occasions last winter, typically 4 months below -10... Currently the temperature is -3 and headed to -8 overnight, voltage is 2.98, will probably need to replace them in autumn 2019...

                      N 1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • B Offline
                        B Offline
                        benhub
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #191

                        The tap point could be bypassed with a 0.1 uF capacitor

                        Can someone explain, how exactly I should connect this capacitor? Should it be between A0 and GND? Would be great to see this capacitor in the graphic.

                        zboblamontZ 1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • B benhub

                          The tap point could be bypassed with a 0.1 uF capacitor

                          Can someone explain, how exactly I should connect this capacitor? Should it be between A0 and GND? Would be great to see this capacitor in the graphic.

                          zboblamontZ Offline
                          zboblamontZ Offline
                          zboblamont
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #192

                          @benhub That rather depends what you are quoting from, as could not find the original statement.
                          If it is to do with stabilising voltage from a point on a resistor divider to read it on the analogue pin, the capacitor is from the analogue pin to ground.
                          It's purpose to dampen oscillations long enough for the ADC to sample the voltage, but usually only where high value resistances are used.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          1
                          • T Offline
                            T Offline
                            tonbor
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #193

                            The quote is from this sample : Measuring and Reporting Battery Level

                            Use a 1MΩ (R1) and 470KΩ (R2) resistor in series, connected to the positive terminal on the battery and ground and then connected the tap point to the A0 input on the CPU.

                            The tap point could be bypassed with a 0.1 uF capacitor to keep the noise level low, at this otherwise high impedance point.

                            skywatchS 1 Reply Last reply
                            2
                            • T tonbor

                              The quote is from this sample : Measuring and Reporting Battery Level

                              Use a 1MΩ (R1) and 470KΩ (R2) resistor in series, connected to the positive terminal on the battery and ground and then connected the tap point to the A0 input on the CPU.

                              The tap point could be bypassed with a 0.1 uF capacitor to keep the noise level low, at this otherwise high impedance point.

                              skywatchS Offline
                              skywatchS Offline
                              skywatch
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #194

                              @tonbor Yes, the capacitor goes from the analog input to ground.

                              mfalkviddM 1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • skywatchS skywatch

                                @tonbor Yes, the capacitor goes from the analog input to ground.

                                mfalkviddM Offline
                                mfalkviddM Offline
                                mfalkvidd
                                Mod
                                wrote on last edited by mfalkvidd
                                #195

                                @skywatch @tonbor @benhub @zboblamont thanks for your input. I have updated the page. I added the text in bold:

                                The tap point could be bypassed with a 0.1 uF capacitor (connected in parallel with R2) to keep the noise level low

                                and updated the image. Please let me know if something is still unclear.

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • T Offline
                                  T Offline
                                  tonbor
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #196

                                  Perfect!

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  1
                                  • M Offline
                                    M Offline
                                    Macgyver33
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #197

                                    If you remove the regulator and power with 2xAA batteries, do you only need the TX and RX pins for the FTDI programmer and if so can you use the RX and TX pins on the left side instead of the top FTDI pin connector? Trying to think how to connect the FTDI programmer without connecting to it's VCC and ground when there is no regulator on the pro mini.

                                    mfalkviddM 1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • M Macgyver33

                                      If you remove the regulator and power with 2xAA batteries, do you only need the TX and RX pins for the FTDI programmer and if so can you use the RX and TX pins on the left side instead of the top FTDI pin connector? Trying to think how to connect the FTDI programmer without connecting to it's VCC and ground when there is no regulator on the pro mini.

                                      mfalkviddM Offline
                                      mfalkviddM Offline
                                      mfalkvidd
                                      Mod
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #198

                                      @macgyver33 you need rx, tx and gnd.

                                      The pins on the left side and the ones on the top work the same way, you can use the ones on the left if you prefer.

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • tianaT Offline
                                        tianaT Offline
                                        tiana
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #199

                                        Is exist something "last wish" in MySensors, when battery go below predefined level the device to send last massage to the GW and go sleep forever.
                                        The idea is the controller/application to have information about the device and to be known this device is dead and need battery change.

                                        mfalkviddM 1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • tianaT tiana

                                          Is exist something "last wish" in MySensors, when battery go below predefined level the device to send last massage to the GW and go sleep forever.
                                          The idea is the controller/application to have information about the device and to be known this device is dead and need battery change.

                                          mfalkviddM Offline
                                          mfalkviddM Offline
                                          mfalkvidd
                                          Mod
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #200

                                          @tiana the controller will know the last battery level. Just set the predefined level in your controller?

                                          1 Reply Last reply
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