What did you build today (Pictures) ?
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Another picture from today:
Just started working with coincells - CR2032 to be exact. Anyone knows why the battery % varies with the given temperature? Are those coincells very temp. dependent or I have made a misstake somewhere... ???
Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz -
Another picture from today:
Just started working with coincells - CR2032 to be exact. Anyone knows why the battery % varies with the given temperature? Are those coincells very temp. dependent or I have made a misstake somewhere... ???
@sundberg84 said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:
Anyone knows why the battery % varies with the given temperature
They don't like it when it's too cold. Check page 4 :
https://data.energizer.com/pdfs/lithiumcoin_appman.pdf -
Another picture from today:
Just started working with coincells - CR2032 to be exact. Anyone knows why the battery % varies with the given temperature? Are those coincells very temp. dependent or I have made a misstake somewhere... ???
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433 MHz ESP 32 MQTT Gateway with proper antenna
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@sundberg84 looks like you can ditch the temperarure sensor and just use the battery voltage to measure the temperature :muscle:
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Yesterday received the PCB. Today assembled for testing this battery-powered nRF52-based passive infrared motion detector:
@NeverDie sorry if it's a bit off topic, but I see that 10 pin ARM box connector you use in several of your designs, and I was wondering if it offers anything extra in addition to the regular 6 pin programming pins. I'm asking specifically because I want to try some of your nrf52832 designs, but would like to avoid spending extra money on special connectors and cables. Thanks!
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@NeverDie sorry if it's a bit off topic, but I see that 10 pin ARM box connector you use in several of your designs, and I was wondering if it offers anything extra in addition to the regular 6 pin programming pins. I'm asking specifically because I want to try some of your nrf52832 designs, but would like to avoid spending extra money on special connectors and cables. Thanks!
@idanronen No, nothing extra. It just conveniently and transparently interfaces to the ribbon adapter cable used by the Nordic nrf52 dev kits for programming external nRF52 MCU's. If you want to roll-your-own, you can do away with most of the pins. I myself migrated to a smaller connector in later designs.
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@idanronen No, nothing extra. It just conveniently and transparently interfaces to the ribbon adapter cable used by the Nordic nrf52 dev kits for programming external nRF52 MCU's. If you want to roll-your-own, you can do away with most of the pins. I myself migrated to a smaller connector in later designs.
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@NeverDie thanks for clarifying!
So for example in the mini breakout board (https://www.openhardware.io/view/471/Ebyte-nRF52832-Small-Breakout-Board) I could just align the 6 pads and use a standard 6 pin pogo programmer right?@idanronen Yup. If you have more questions, you should probably ask them on a different thread than this one, as it's off topic here.
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Offtopic in terms of mysensors platform, but somehow tangent to a home automation. I've made a batch of concrete switches/push buttons which are in this case simple buttons with led backlight and all the logic is located centrally in distribution box, based on KNX ABB module. But I am planning on making smarter and more complex version which could use Mysensors as its transport.
and a photo of insides of one of the prototypes at first stages of development
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Offtopic in terms of mysensors platform, but somehow tangent to a home automation. I've made a batch of concrete switches/push buttons which are in this case simple buttons with led backlight and all the logic is located centrally in distribution box, based on KNX ABB module. But I am planning on making smarter and more complex version which could use Mysensors as its transport.
and a photo of insides of one of the prototypes at first stages of development
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Offtopic in terms of mysensors platform, but somehow tangent to a home automation. I've made a batch of concrete switches/push buttons which are in this case simple buttons with led backlight and all the logic is located centrally in distribution box, based on KNX ABB module. But I am planning on making smarter and more complex version which could use Mysensors as its transport.
and a photo of insides of one of the prototypes at first stages of development
@monte It's a real pleasure to see such professional looking design!
I'm curious though: the button in your teardown looks clear:
so how does it turn black and give the solar eclipse effect? I mean, I can see the 4 LED's that comprise the "sun," but how does the button (the "moon" in this analogy) go from clear to black? -
@monte It's a real pleasure to see such professional looking design!
I'm curious though: the button in your teardown looks clear:
so how does it turn black and give the solar eclipse effect? I mean, I can see the 4 LED's that comprise the "sun," but how does the button (the "moon" in this analogy) go from clear to black?@NeverDie tanks for describing it as "professional":)
The clear button on the last photo was one of prototypes as I've mentioned, frankly process of refining the button part to make it work as it should was the longest part of the development. Now it is made in two stages: at first the transparent acrylic part is cut on laser machine, then it placed into a mold with curing mix of resin and concrete, which makes it's black top layer that blocks the light from below. 3mm acrylic base and 2mm resin top layer.
But I have to say that next batches will be made the other way, which is already in my mind:)@MatiasV thanks! Well, I coluld describe the whole process of making, but it requires a lot of work like making propper mold, the process of trial and error while trying to achieve consistant pour and at last the complex process of making a button that would work without sticking.
Frankly I don't think it's worth time and effort if you plan tho do only one switch for yourself. But I can give you hints about concrete mixture and other stuff, if you're just interested in it's concrete part. -
@NeverDie tanks for describing it as "professional":)
The clear button on the last photo was one of prototypes as I've mentioned, frankly process of refining the button part to make it work as it should was the longest part of the development. Now it is made in two stages: at first the transparent acrylic part is cut on laser machine, then it placed into a mold with curing mix of resin and concrete, which makes it's black top layer that blocks the light from below. 3mm acrylic base and 2mm resin top layer.
But I have to say that next batches will be made the other way, which is already in my mind:)@MatiasV thanks! Well, I coluld describe the whole process of making, but it requires a lot of work like making propper mold, the process of trial and error while trying to achieve consistant pour and at last the complex process of making a button that would work without sticking.
Frankly I don't think it's worth time and effort if you plan tho do only one switch for yourself. But I can give you hints about concrete mixture and other stuff, if you're just interested in it's concrete part.@monte Now that you've mastered the medium you can cast your own tile to texture a wall:
I met a local architect who did such a thing for her own home. She only had to create a handful of different molds, and then random placement gave the illusion of more than that. Maybe they could be secret panels for hiding all your home automation control equipment behind. High WAF that would be. :grin:
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Just made a fun (and useful) sensor / device, using a arduino pro-micro (atmega32u4), and VL53L01 TOF distance sensor.
It's an auto lock device for my pc, I have mounted the VL53L01 to the bottom of my center monitor, and then have it measure the distance to my body, whenever it exceeds 1m (or is out of range), I increase a counter. When the counter reaches 20 (seconds) I send keypress GUI+L, to lock the screen (works equally well on ubuntu and windows).
When I return to the desk again, it is detected by the arduino (distance is now under 1m again). And it then sends CTRL+ALT+DEL to start login procedure.
The arduino sketch is available on https://gist.github.com/tbowmo/7e9934796d47566dc09e7b3bc5b2f208
next project should probably be to find a better enclosure, and build one for when I return to the office in a month or two, when the corona lockdown is lifted more
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I think we need a thread (and it would be fun) where old and new users can post a picture with a small text with "look what I did today". Its a steal from another forum i watch but its a really fun thread to follow like-minded people in their daily work.
The rules are simple - keep it simple with one picture (or a few) with a small text including a small explanation. If you want to comment on a particular post please create a new thread ("Reply as topic") or keep it really short. The idea is to get a flow with pictures. It does absolutely not needs to be a finished project - it can be a sketch of an idea or a process of something. Anything you can take a picture off from the MySensors / Home automation world.
I hope this is not violating any forum rules and if it does, please remove - but I think this can be a fun addition to the forum.
Let me start!
Today i created a second motion detector based on Slim Node from @m26872. Its a 1mhz bootloader and modified hc-sr501(3.3v "hack"). Its currently "deployed" in my kitchen (replaced the old one) in the spice-rack above the stove... low WAF but high camouflage! Might work :)I finished my fully functional panel for domoticz, using Display Nextion ...
I don't know where to post, sorry !!! lol
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Interupted by our first "Summer" lightning, but in replacing my old Rfm69 gateway (old one works, but uses a ftdi adapter for Serial communication and i have another need for the adapter). In the same time im taking up signing. The node has a atsha chip but I never used it properly which im going to try to fix.
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Hi guys,
today I have finished the 3d printable case of the d-diot hub.
The hub basically is a Raspberry Pi 3 with the d-diot board (see this topic) that offers the following functionalities:
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IR Gateway (blaster and receiver) to control every device that has a dummy infrared remote.
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433 Mhz Gateway with the RFLink firmware running on the on-board ATMega2560 microcontroller
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Dual MySensors Gateway: NRF24 (2.4 Ghz) and RFM69 (868 Mhz).
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Latch circuit to power-on and safely power-off your Pi with a simple button press.
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SSD1306 I2C Oled display controllable in Home Assistant
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Radio activity LEDs for IR and Mysensors gateways
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Nice and powerful web interface thanks to Home Assistant
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Easy setup and configuration with the d-diot image
If someone is interested, here the detailed build instructions.
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Anyone know or have experience with how well the underlying capacitive soil moisture sensors hold up over the long term? Clearly they're better than the cheap conductive electrode kind, which for most people don't last very long at all, but I recollect reading that water ultimately invades the PCB enough on even the capacitive designs that it goes kaput. Maybe they've been improved since then or maybe there are now known tricks for how to fortify them against that happening?
@NeverDie My experience shows that the Chinese sensors that are sold on Aliexpress have a low quality printed circuit Board. When used outdoors, they may deteriorate within 1-2 seasons. Inside the house, in a flower pot, the service life is much longer. As for such sensors developed independently, the quality of printed circuit boards that are ordered through the services of jlcpcb, pcbway... very high.
