Thats kind of where I'm stuck, I'm not sure what to put on to help it, whether its just that the power circuit is slightly higher output voltage than it would normally get from a battery pack or whether I need to have something else added in....Creating these circuits (While somewhat simplistic) is a bit of a first for me, so still learning as I go
Posts made by Chester
RE: Flashing solar lights timing out after conversion
Flashing solar lights timing out after conversion
Hi guys... I've been hunting around and hoping that you can give me a solution to my issue! Being christmas, we do a fairly big display at our house (Its a huge thing in Australia!).
I have some solar lights that have worn out over the years, so when the solar controller gets into pretty bad shape, I just knock up a little voltage converter to drop a 5v power source down to about 3V to power the solar lights, and give them a new life, not to mention that I can also turn them all on and off by the same power switches, rather than hunting for all the individual switches out in the garden lol.
I'm a little stumped though, because I have a couple of sets of solar stars that flash, and they would cycle in a roughly 2 second on/off pulse on solar, but now that I've converted it to low voltage mains, it becomes a half second on, 3-4 second off cycle now. I'd prefer to keep them to the same cycle if I can, as now they don't really show up very well.
I have seen some references to the flash being a result of the batteries internal resistance, so I might need to add something to my circuit, but I'm not sure what.... that's where I got stuck.
The circuit is a really simple LM317 with 2 resistors to drop the incoming 5V down to 3V, which then just feeds into the input side of the original light controller, so essentially it replaces the solar panel and the battery inside the compartment.
RE: Another option for AC/DC power? CUI PBO-3 and PBO-5
Not so much cost as an issue, but more being able to pack things into small size requirements, such as light switch casings or junction boxes. I'm happy to use phone chargers for some sensors, but things like light switch sensors and garage or outdoor sensors I need sealed options.
Another option for AC/DC power? CUI PBO-3 and PBO-5
Got an email today from Mouser about a new series of AC/DC modules, and wasn't sure how the idea would compare to things like the HLK units that we are starting to see used.
The package details are at http://au.mouser.com/new/cui-inc/cui-pbo-3-pbo-5/
I'm still fairly new in electronics design, so some of it goes over my head, but on that page they have the diagrams with the application circuits. Does that design mean that in order to use this module, you would need the module itself, PLUS all of the fuses, varistors, caps etc in that application note? Does that then mean that this module would be analogous to just the HLK module on its own as well?
I think this is the reason I haven't yet gone down the route of sensors powered directly from AC (As much as I want to!), is that there doesn't really seem to be a pcb module that has everything included.
RE: RFM69 range issues
Hi @executivul ,
You mentioned in your post that the length of the antenna must be tuned to the circuit - would you mind sharing the process to do the tuning?
Down near the bottom of the page is the lengths of antenna needed for the three primary frequencies used by the RFM board.
RE: Which thumbwheel switch would be more fantastic ?
How many thumbs do you require to create one switch? Is there a good thumb to wheel ratio that makes for a good switch? Would you make the switch out of different wheels, say light passenger vehicle versus a late 16th century cart wheel? Would you be able to specify the amount of each type of wheel in the production of said switch? How about thumb types? Can I have one switch made from virgin female thumbs, and would it be more expensive than one made from 50 year old retired carpenter thumbs? I would have thought the carpenter thumbs would be more expensive than virgin female thumbs, as most retired carpenters have lost part of their thumb by the time they retire, so would be quite rare to obtain.
TL:DR, your products suck, and have been blacklisted from my stock ordering options too. So long!
Soldering RFM to Sensebender
So my shiny little Sensebender gateway arrived today in the post, man am I excited!
Just had a question, I need to solder the RFM69 to the underside of the module, but I have never done that kind of overlay solder before, and just wanted to check. do I need any insulation between the RFM and the sensebender? Or does the green mask provide for the electrical isolation? So, do I just lay the RFM onto the sensebender and solder the pads?
And I'm guessing I still need to have the antenna wire soldered on to the RFM, even though there is a corresponding pad on the sensebender underneath the antenna pad on the RFM.
RE: RFM69 range issues
I have had the same issues as you with the RFM69 modules.
First ones that I bought were marked as RFM69HCW 433mhz, and when I put them together as required, I couldn't get range of more than around 40cm. After that, the reception dropped off a cliff. One thing I did note was that the modules looked different from all the images I could see on this site, which led me to ponder whether I just had crummy modules or not. Also, given the size of the antenna, I was a bit loath to continue with 433mhz radios.
so I decided to up and pick up a new batch of radios, and change over to the RFM69HW (without the C), 868mhz. These ones, when I soldered them up, give me range of around 30m through the entire length of the house, through every wall.
So the only thing I could put my effort down to was that I just had a crummy radio module batch first, and a proper set later, so not sure I can put too much more knowledge into things here.