Hardware

https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/6961/nrf5-action/1659 That fixed it.

@tsjoender thanks I will try your advice Dick

@vladimir there is an example for using rotary encoder on this page: https://www.mysensors.org/build/dimmer

@otto001 Hello! Did you manage to implement this node?

![Thanks for your replies. Actually, the problem is to trigger the pulse of the relay with the function "delay". It is working but sometimes during the "delay" function, the gateway has not received the information of the first pulse yet. So, the second pulse "digital write..." will not work. I will have to press several times. It is a coding optimization i think. For the status i have used a ACS712 sensor to know if the light is on or off. i attached for you the electrical diagram of the "standard" impulse relay on a french house installation which is located in the main board in the garage. Push button are connected. This relay is trigger with 2 quick pulses when you press the push button, then the light will turn on or off. To insert Mysensors project to this original electricall installation i directly connected the mysensors Node with an NO NC relay directly on the same wires than the push button. From the gateway, i trigger the relay with 2 pulses. [image: 1535352299463-telerupteur.jpg]

@petere the INA219 readings are erratic because the current is erratic. When the PWM pulse is off, there will be roughly 0 current (but negative right after the cutoff). When the pulse is on, the current will be the same as if you didn't use PWM. This will change about 500 times per second (on a normal Arduino PWM, not sure if the Ruideng uses a different frequency), so INA219 will read different current at different times. See if setting a longer sample time helps. Not sure which library you are using but the Adafruit library defaults to 532us sample time. The longest sample time for INA219 is 69ms which should give you readings that are stable enough. EDIT: I see now that you already got a similar (but slightly less detailed) answer 5 days ago at http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=564517.msg3846445#msg3846445

Looking at it more closely, I noticed that TI's design is meant to is to attach directly to the optical chamber of the Sharp Microelectronics optical dust sensor (part number: GP2Y1010AU0F).

@marceltrapman You could desolder the LEDs and solder some wires or even a header to the pads. Then regular LEDs can be connected to the wires/header. Will require a steady hand though...

@alowhum Now I remembered that I once shot a video about this sensor. In the description below the video there are links to sketches that work with such sensors. But for this video I did not do subtitles in English, in sketches comments also seem to be in Russian. But I think it won't be a problem. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0sxeT0VsVg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdrU0byfbvI

@hakha4 I take it back, the sketches work. The problem was solved as follows: connected the radio to the output of nodemcu 3.3 V. before that, the radio was on a separate power line. I think the esp32 is very power sensitive, I think it was a level mismatch on the SPI pins. Try it, I think you have the same problem.

@alexsh1 current draw details in sketch header. 10-20 uA I had some problems with recovery after gateway power cycling. See discussion here. This issue has been fixed with a workaround.

@alowhum use --spi-spidev-device=<DEVICE> to use the other spi. Documentation: https://www.mysensors.org/apidocs/group__RaspberryPiGateway.html

@rozpruwacz I guess it shouldn't. Maybe if one incoming byte is treated as two, but the kernel should still be able to process that I think. It would decode the byte incorrectly, but it shouldn't cause an overrun.

@raptorjr If you can figure out what the filter differential pressure should be when requiring serviced (perhaps from the filter manufacturer or a manual?), it should be possible to find a pressure switch which triggers alarm on the supply side of the filter. If I recall correctly, some water supply pump pressure switch controllers can be turned down to trigger between 5 and 30 psi, perhaps an old one can be found and re-purposed if it fits the range you are aiming for, however fugly they are...

I noticed 2 suppliers that sell shielded versions of the small modules for about $2,60 (including shipping) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wireless-transceiver-digital-RF-module-Full-original-device-nRF24L01-2-4G-shield-wholesale/32842485649.html

Glass reed switch and Fibaro Door/window Sensor (before I stumble on to Mysensors) if you have an electromagnetic door bell. Battery a bit expensive last more then a year with DS18B20 temperature sensor connected.

I'm currently in the process of trying to figure out why one of my battery powered nodes isn't working very well with a newly purchased NRF24L01+PA+LNA module. I've shielded it as described in earlier posts. There is plenty of pure power in the batteries. Just as in the case for @pkjjneal it works well only if I'm touching the antenna with a finger. I decided to look inside the antenna: [image: 1533729642840-dsc_1916-resized.jpg] As you see above, it starts with an antenna cable that leads to a half wave dipole (where the antenna element is of about 1/4 wave length) and there is a "sleeve balun" going back over the cable . I can find no ground plane though. The problem that I can see is that the antenna length is 27 mm where it should optimally be 28.8 mm. Now, if I remove the antenna completely my node works quite well. At least better than if I use the original antenna unmodified. If I insert a wire (DIY antenna made by a paper clip) extending 121 mm out of the antenna sockets forming a full wave length antenna things work great. I also modified the original antenna so that the antenna element becomes 28.8 mm. It works a bit better but it's far from perfect and communication errors are shown in the log. As the final test, I added a nice ground plane to the original antenna and now it works really perfect! [image: 1533729825900-dsc_1917-resized.jpg] So what can I learn from this? My test rig is an EasyPCB powered with batteries. I'm quite sure that my NRF24L01+PA+LNA module used in another scenario, for example connected to a Arduino Nano fed by a FTDI connector could actually work. It's because it would create a different environment. The antenna will work in relation to what it's connected to, shielding the grounding, and surrounding objects. Capacitive and inductive reactances are involved in mysterious ways. Anyway. My conclusion is that the two original antennas I have are not working very good. They obviously have the wrong length just a little bit, and I'd say that the the way the antenna is constructed with the sleeve balun and no ground plane, doesn't seem to work well. At least not here. I'll do some more experimenting with making my own antennas. Starting with taking apart an original antenna is not so bad, I can solder anything (solderable) onto the cable. Cheers! From wikipedia: Sleeve balun At VHF frequencies, a sleeve balun can also be built to remove feeder radiation. Another narrow-band design is to use a λ/4 length of metal pipe. The coaxial cable is placed inside the pipe; at one end the braid is wired to the pipe while at the other end no connection is made to the pipe. The balanced end of this balun is at the end where no connection is made to the pipe. The λ/4 conductor acts as a transformer, converting the zero impedance at the short to the braid into an infinite impedance at the open end. This infinite impedance at the open end of the pipe prevents current flowing into the outer coax formed by the outside of the inner coax shield and the pipe, forcing the current to remain in the inside coax.

@alowhum said in How to build up a sensor network: @dzjr sound like quite a plan. Why not directly connect the radio to your Raspberry Pi's GPIO pins? It's easy, and will save you an Arduino. This might be interesting to check for your irrigation needs: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/9534/irrigation-controller/8 This might be interesting to check for your heater: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/9421/safe-heating-with-mysensors-how-i-use-it-as-a-smart-thermostat Thank you for replying I will read the post's, and of course also use it during programming. The reason I use separate arduinos is that I want to set up the (rapsberry-Pi) domticz server in the house, in a central cabinet together with an RF-Link and a second MySensors gateway. Also, a Raspberry-Pi only has a limited number of GPIOs (eg wants to control 16 relays), and no analogue inputs, but I could still read that via an i2c multiplexer.