Hardware

Overpowered smart devices are a security risk. Especially if they communicate via TCP-IP and are connected to your normal home network.

Well the replacement regulator datasheet says that pin 5 its not connected to anything so I'm assuming that it doesn't matter. With regard to the PCB, I don't know the answer to that and didn't really consider that. I don't have the actual schematic but my understanding is that all Arduino Mini Pro's are made from the same schematic so if so, pin 4 per the schematic is "bypass" and is not attached to anything on the PCB.

In the default wiring, D1 is the only unused pin that is easy to work with. D2 is used for CE so using it to blink a led as well will not work.

@wergeld thanks. While I do have a pi, it's currently managing my fish tank - so I will probably set things up on the laptop and if it works out will transfer things to another pi later on. What brought me to here was a desire to set up two light pulse meter sensors. One on my import meter the other on my solar generating meter. Currently I have a commercial hall effect display - but its pretty basic and it doesn't show direction, meaning if it shows 1Kwh - I have no idea if this is importing or exporting. I figure to show the direction with led initially (if its a net export import will be zero and export will be flashing). Anyway - thats my initial plan. if this works then I can think about pulse rate, Watts and then turning things on when exporting enough power.

Also quite nice: a normal Arduino (not the mega) with Lora, but with a nice battery system built in. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LoRa-Radio-Node-v1-0-Based-on-Sx1278-LoRa-433Mhz-2-4G-RFM98-for-Arduino-ATmega328P/32855090628.html Now if only they made an RFM69 version of that..

I've thought of that already but @nagelc thanks for the suggestion though!!

@scalz Maybe this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Net_radiometer I'm not sure if it's overkill, but it does look like it would do the job. :)

Welcome to the MySensors forum @trentbliss Could you explain what CMS is in this context? What is a read holding register command?

@prakhar-birla Please explain how the DS18B20 will not be parasitic mode when it only has GND connected on pins 1 and 3 and data (with pull-up) on pin 2?

@prakhar-birla I do buy in Aliexpress, you can see some of the links in https://www.mysensors.org/build/connect_radio

@jeremushka Indeed, it is a complex way to switch on a lamp, but if you only want to change the switch, I guess it's what you need to do. It would be much easier to insert something at the light bulb, as your neutral is available there. My French is not that good, but I think you can solve your "va et vient" by changing the NO relay in your reference schematic with a NO/NC relay (SPDT switch).

Hallo Mikael, thank you for your hint. I modified the hwCPUVoltage() part of MyHwSAMD.cpp like this. It works for me. Maybe it is not the best solution, however. Sincerely Karl-Heinz uint16_t hwCPUVoltage() { #ifdef __SAMD51__ return FUNCTION_NOT_SUPPORTED; #else // disable ADC while (ADC->STATUS.bit.SYNCBUSY); ADC->CTRLA.bit.ENABLE = 0x00; // internal 1V reference (default) analogReference(AR_INTERNAL1V0); // 12 bit resolution (default) analogWriteResolution(12); // MUXp 0x1B = SCALEDIOVCC/4 => connected to Vcc ADC->INPUTCTRL.bit.MUXPOS = 0x1B ; // enable ADC while (ADC->STATUS.bit.SYNCBUSY); ADC->CTRLA.bit.ENABLE = 0x01; // start conversion while (ADC->STATUS.bit.SYNCBUSY); ADC->SWTRIG.bit.START = 1; // clear the Data Ready flag ADC->INTFLAG.bit.RESRDY = 1; // start conversion again, since The first conversion after the reference is changed must not be used. while (ADC->STATUS.bit.SYNCBUSY); ADC->SWTRIG.bit.START = 1; // waiting for conversion to complete while (!ADC->INTFLAG.bit.RESRDY); const uint32_t valueRead = ADC->RESULT.reg; // disable ADC while (ADC->STATUS.bit.SYNCBUSY); ADC->CTRLA.bit.ENABLE = 0x00; return valueRead * 4; #endif }

The RFM69 is definitely better. But I haven't found a commercial version of the RFM69 that can fit in the NRF24 socket (and ideally allow for 5v communication). If the Moteino allows for the RFMB12 to be soldered on.. does that mean MySensors could also in theory communicate via an RFMB12? Or would modifications to the code need to be made? // hmm, that page says the RFM12B is not really developed for moteino anymore.

@nca78 I did that search on Aliexpress but only found coin-cell operated ones?

@parachutesj thank you for the link I never noticed those before.

@skywatch I was referring to the OP.

@thecricketer some ideas here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqtNsIKpZAw

@thecricketer There are so many things to consider when selecting components but for us hobby-tinkerers there are a few that are most important e.g. Max input voltage: Vinmax Max output current: Iout Size or package Price You will find all these answers in the data sheets. Normally available from your components supplier or else on the internet. Below is a simple table: Type Vinmax Iout Package Price (SEK, single units) LD1117 15 V 800 mA TO220 5:50 LE33 20 V 100 mA TO92 9:- LP2950 30 V 100 mA TO92 9:- LM317 40V delta 1500 mA TO220 9:- (There is also an 100 mA version for 6:25) If you are using the Sundberg newbiePCB the design is for an TO92 package so either LE33 or LP2950 is the choice. The LD1177 is TO220 package and you do not need 800 mA for the radio. It only consumes about 30 mA when transmitting. The LM317 is an adjustable regulator so it can regulate to 5 V or 3.3 V or whatever you like but it takes two more resistors to set the voltage. In this case it is overkill and does not fit the Sundberg board. If you plan to run your design on batteries I think the LP2950 is better than the LE33 because the LP2950 consumes less power internally, only 75 microamps. The LE33 can use as much as 500 microamps internally. This is just scratching the surface of component choice but keep it simple in the beginning. Happy tinkering!

@korttoma Adafruit library. It communicates over UART.