@rozpruwacz said in 3.3v Boost Converter with Pass-Through: Hi, I just came across this project and I like the idea of pass trough very much I have a question, why did You use the LTC3525D part instead of MCP1640C which You already used in other boost converter projects ? MCP1640C is 5 times cheaper than LTC3525D and they are quite similar. I just now revised the board to expose the Enable pin, so now you can do a pass-through if you wish. I also made it more compact and gave it a ground-plane on the back. https://www.openhardware.io/view/279 Enjoy!

Right you are. Live and learn (even at 81), and I even learned a new word -'vias.' Thanks.

Thanks you a lot for your work

@Marcel-Stör Sorry, I don't know. Maybe try the datasheet.

Yes @tbowmo, I saw the solder pads on the back - although thanks for the reminder (and image @mfalkvidd)! I’m not using those (yet) since I didn’t want to “permanently” attach one of my “precious” RFM69HWs to it whilst I’m tinkering with all these lovely new radios you now support. RFM95 next I hope, after checking out the FOTA and signing! You guys have really done great work! I also wanted to range-test with a few different externally mounted antennas I had lying around and so I combined pads for a surface mount U.fl and edge SMA on my own NRF2RFM69. Not a great deal of room around the SBGW’s pin breakout (P1) for a helical - although I really respect the design choices - so I figure I’ll probably breakout those pins to pigtail an SMA. But this is getting a bit off-topic Re: NRF2RFM69 and probably better suited to the Sensebender Gateway thread. Bringing it back on-topic a little: Do you know if there is a version of this board that is pad-compatible with the C-versions of these HopeRF RFM69s before I go searching? (Since I believe the C-versions are also pad-compatible with the RFM95s…)

@soward I use some sort of no-name 10 uH 12mm (I know, stupidly big) shielded inductor from AliExpress. Looks a lot like these, fairly bulky and heavy: http://m2.uxcell.com/photo_new/20140506/c/ux_a14050600ux0992_ux_c.jpg Haven't done more than go over it with the continuity tester to see that it didn't have some sort of rudimentary inside damage. I also tested the capacitors, they were close enough to 10 uF but I did some surprising minor variation that can't be blamed on the DMM. Random Ebay caps are probably not a good idea if you need spot on values. But they did seem to work.