💬 MyMultisensors
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nothing fancy..with dupont cable.
of course you won't connect the pogo directly on the usbasp.
make a small adapter. simple and cheap :)
Example with ftdi adapter
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@scalz Awesome board, really. However, I'm a bit worried about its practical use. You see, the motion sensors are commonly placed near the ceiling or sometimes on the ceiling. This may induce a serious drift in the reported temperature. Ideally, a temperature sensor should be placed in the middle of the wall.
Some people would have the impression that they're wasting energy on heating during winter while others would boost their A/C units during the summer just to read they temperature they feel confortable with. This effect would be mitigate by either concealing the motion sensor at a proper height for temperature reading, or use a reference sensor for calibration and compensate the reported value of an improperly placed sensor, and that's assuming that the seasonal variation is linear.
Anyway, excellent SMD work, I'm still in the PTH ice age :grinning: -
@mihai-aldea
thx :)
of course i won't use temperature/hum sensor on the ceiling. Boards are small i can put them everywhere i want.
On my side, i just need one temp/hum/lum per room, and at least one PIR. This board needs to be well placed of course.
But if i need more PIR only, or temp/hum only... it's also possible. So i don't need to have a dedicated pcb per use. I stencil only what i need ;) -
I guess ordering the pcb will only get me the pcb. I need to do the soldering etc myself ?
But I really wonder how to solder such a board seemingly being smd soldering. Are there any guides available for someone like me (pretty handy, but not experienced in this hardware stuff) ?
Thanks ! -
I guess ordering the pcb will only get me the pcb. I need to do the soldering etc myself ?
But I really wonder how to solder such a board seemingly being smd soldering. Are there any guides available for someone like me (pretty handy, but not experienced in this hardware stuff) ?
Thanks !@Sander-Teunissen said:
I guess ordering the pcb will only get me the pcb. I need to do the soldering etc myself ?
But I really wonder how to solder such a board seemingly being smd soldering. Are there any guides available for someone like me (pretty handy, but not experienced in this hardware stuff) ?
Thanks !@hek
Speaking of which, I thought there were going to be some mysensors manufacturering partners who would actually make this stuff, including the soldering. When is that going to happen? -
i've been so busy during december, i'll be back for the new year ;)
About pcba (assembling), it's already possible to use partners in your openhardware account. They may ask for more details if projects need it.
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@mihai-aldea
thx :)
of course i won't use temperature/hum sensor on the ceiling. Boards are small i can put them everywhere i want.
On my side, i just need one temp/hum/lum per room, and at least one PIR. This board needs to be well placed of course.
But if i need more PIR only, or temp/hum only... it's also possible. So i don't need to have a dedicated pcb per use. I stencil only what i need ;)@scalz said:
But if i need more PIR only, or temp/hum only... it's also possible. So i don't need to have a dedicated pcb per use. I stencil only what i need ;)
Yeah, makes sense, a modular sensor PCB, a more advanced version than my Si7021 / DS18B20+ or PIR / door-window PCBs.
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PCBWay have quoted a few fully assembled boards on openhardware.io but the prices is pretty high as they won't stock/produce larger batches.
It's a bit problematic to get low price at low volumes (and low financial commitment).
I suggest hardware contributors to setup some cooperation directly with the manufacturers. You should have a direct channel to them in the closed manufacturing forum here (accessible for all open hardware contributors).
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@hek Have you considered using the Seeedstudio PCB assembly service? I haven't tried this service as all my PCB's are using old school PTH. But will try them at some point. It says that "Assembly Fee Starts from $25" but there's no mention whether it's a flat fee or it includes some components assembly. The pricing information is rather fuzzy and I wasn't needing the service for time being anyway so I didn't ask.
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Yes, Seeed Studio have access to quote assembled boards (since a couple of weeks back) on openhardware.io, but they haven't so far as it is a bit more complicated (time consuming) to get a accurate price.
@scalz and I have been in contact with Seed about this particular board. But we've not had time to follow up on some of their documentation requirements.
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@mihai-aldea
thx :)
of course i won't use temperature/hum sensor on the ceiling. Boards are small i can put them everywhere i want.
On my side, i just need one temp/hum/lum per room, and at least one PIR. This board needs to be well placed of course.
But if i need more PIR only, or temp/hum only... it's also possible. So i don't need to have a dedicated pcb per use. I stencil only what i need ;)@scalz said:
I stencil only what i need ;)
I know it's a probably a bit late now, but have you considered making a separate board only for the PIR ?
Then the "main" board with other sensors would be (relatively) easy to solder and cheap to produce by PCBA, then people could order the PCBA of the PIR only separately if they need.And it would be pretty useful for every other board maker on this forum also as a low power PIR is not a real option :D
I'm thinking about stealing your design to make a dedicated PIR child board, but I'm afraid my routing skills and electronic knowledge are not good enough yet to make a stable solution that will not be rigged by false detection problems :( -
@Nca78
My best wishes for the new year :)I designed this little pir sensor board last month with an optional lux sensor which i think is a nice sensor associated with a PIR. I will post files soon (I'm recovering today, phew!)
https://www.openhardware.io/view/292/Motion-And-Lux-Shield-V1
I also derivated it with MYSX connector, so it could be plugged on some new neat sensebender mk for instance :)And i've asked a pcba for this sensor board, for curiosity. but i've been busy during december.. let's see what we'll get ;)
But about MyMultisensors. I've designed V2 last month. I didn't need it..just because i wanted to try.
I've improved cost, changed PIR strategy, new mcu, still low power, and size is 30.5x25.5 ! with all sensors, and a new thing too. I stop talking.I should get the pcb soon and i'll show. .
Also, that will be a time2time work on the software part because of the mcu choice. -
Any news about the enclosure ? Or did i miss a comment
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Hello, this is really an excellent sensor!
I would like to buy the components for this project, but I do not know which to choose precisely: when I am looking for a capacitor 100n pack 0603 I have 16 V, 20 V, 15%, 20% etc ...
Do you have a list of references to help us?
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I'll put stl for box soon, i need to check few things, and i'm busy.
As i've no time for the moment to upload a complete list with manufacturer parts etc.. it's a 3.3v board without regulator, so with passive >6V (for the 100uF for instance) you should be fine. So for others, 16v etc is enough. Rule i use in general, is 2x what my boards need ;)
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Thanks, and is it OK if I buy 16V for the passive too ?
Like this one http://www.conrad.fr/ce/fr/product/457889/Condensateur-cramique-CMS-0603-Kemet-C0603C104K4RAC-01-F-16-V-10-X7R-1-pcs?ref=searchDetail for the 100nF for instance. -
Yes it's OK to buy 16V. And it should be a rule to buy x7r, so you should be good with those.
But for big values capacitors (used as power reserve), try to take as low voltage as possible on your circuit as leakage is proportionnal to rated voltage. -
Thank you so much, so I will buy 16V for 1u capacitor or more, and 6.3V for others.
And is there a rule for active ? (Watts, volts, amps...)@particle said:
Thank you so much, so I will buy 16V for 1u capacitor or more, and 6.3V for others.
No, it's the opposite :D
The higher the voltage rating, the more leakage/losses you will have. It's not important for small capacitors, but for reserve capacitors like 100µF it's better to take as low as possible, basically 2x the voltage used on your board.
Honestly it's not a big issue if you use 16V instead of 6V, but with a board as optimized for battery life as this one, it would be sad not to optimize the capacitors also ;)
