Hello. I use an optical pair, all the processing is done by the processor.

@berkseo great, I'm going to try it soon, I have 5 nrf52832 chips laying around (got them with the nrf52832-DK). Would be a shame if I didn't use them

Can you tell something about the range of this node? And do you see a chance to post the schematic?

This project is impressive, I really like it. Pity it is so silent about it. After all this work, are you not willing to finish it?

"So as soon as i've checked this is working as before, i release gerbers, and ask for a mini pcba if people interested." Just in case it was not clear in the other thread, I am If the quote you get for PCBA is reasonable of course, else I'll shift to the power hungry versions with bigger batteries until I feel confident to solder 0603. Or to re-make the design with sized-up components The PIR sensor is pretty cheap, but I guess it's already too high for most breakout board sellers on aliexpress who want to keep the price ultra low. I'm just surprised companies like Adafruit or Sparkfun never did anything low power and just resell the 1$ SR501 at 10$ Only DFRobot claims to have a 15µA PIR which is already a great improvement but I can't get it shipped to Vietnam without shelling out 20$ for express mail Happy new year to you too !

@yveaux said in Ikea Molgan Hack: @magpern the instructions on openhardware.io state that the Molgan must be battery powered while programming: Well, then I can confirm that you don't have to power the Molgan from batteries just for programming. Burning the bootloader works fine with just power from the ISP port and programming it through FTDI works fine if power comes from the FTDI. What I found wierd is that the atmega328 had power, the radio had power, it wrote debug messages to the FTDI - when powered through the FTDI, it send radio messages etc, but it just did not receive messages. Messages where not received until I supplied power to the + / - pads (battery pads). I did read the instructions on openhardware.io, but I didn't follow then to the t.

I am still using several temp/hum sensor and they are running great I also have just added code and pictures for my newly build light sensor (using an LDR).

@scalz Voalá! 5.2uA consumption with flash in Ultra Deep Power-Down! Will have to test OTA functionality though (waking up from Ultra Deep Power-Down), but in my experience this is going to be very hard on a coin battery.

@yoonie said: For the pro mini version, should i create another Openhardware project, or should i put it here, in the already existing project? Might be better to create a new project as they uses a different set of design files.

@Samuel235 I am looking at a CO sensor too, do you have any updates on the ones you are using? What is the exact model?

I need your help pls

Hey guys, I was justing wondering, is there a way to deactivate the motion sensor if not being used? Eg: My motion sensors are connected to Homeseer and they show up as sensors but I was wondering if I could have an ON / OFF control to deactivate or active the motion as needed.

Thanks for the reply. I am not looking to use an LCD, although that may be the best solution. For now, I plan on creating a simple set of LEDs and buttons. I have looked over the code, and was wondering which part of the code is retrieving the status of a sensor? What if I have multiple motion sensors, how would I retrieve each unique value?

@BulldogLowell Yes, all is working, thanks. If you want to use this code for reference it is fully functional.

a spark core wouldnbe the best in this case

I was just looking for alternative approaches.

@ryanbrown204 temperature: https://www.mysensors.org/build/temp Motion: https://www.mysensors.org/build/motion See the first post in this thread for the modifications Konrad did.