@rvendrame sorry, I did not see your comment. Yes, it is VERY valuable. Thanks a lot

I have already published all the documentation, on my website, GitHub and openhardware.io For now I leave the node as finished. SmartHome: Wireless LED RGBW Controller – 00:55— giltesa

I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them. https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome

@kalina, Thanks. So it will not work for my configuration. Wall switch (push button) is already installed. No possibilities to draw more electrical wires. Moreover, if i put the board near the light, i have just the Neutral and the return wire from the wall switch. No Live wire to power on the mysensors board. I think in my ase the best way is to manage everything in my garage in the electrical main board where all the wires are mapped. I can get L + N for mysensors power supply. And i can continue to reuse the original wall switch independently of the Mysensors board.

@NeverDie Sorry for delay... This is example (improved version with 3d printed fixer)

Hello, can you post BOM please, according to schematics tantalum schould be 100uF bat tantalum cap in picture is 4.7uF

Hi @blackchart, Unfortunately, all devices are sold out. Further production is possible only when ordering more than 10 devices (in this case, I also can modify the device to suit your needs).

I look forward to seeing photos....

Ah.... Ok

BTW, I like how you both made a case for it. Very nice!

Hi @koresh - I had a little accident on the AC side :-). I was wondering what values the 2 resistors (TH and SMD) and diode are ? Thanks!

Hope will test the new version of this universal board soon. Now it has additional inexpensive accelerometer, magnetic sensor, led, reset button, multifootprint for lora/hw/cw radio without adapter and improoved 4layers design

@Koresh I do like it, i just worry for people that use their main PC as a controller. Easily knockable/damageable unless they use a rear socket.

@gohan Yes, you are right, this is done by cnc router.

Any plans on an rf69 version?

Hi @berkseo. Thanks for the suggestion, but could you describe in more detail? As for my TODO list, there is already a task to add 485 interface to the gateway. My latest device "xRoom" have this interface. ps/ Where have you gone? I have been working on "xRoom" shield. A small announce: Do you remember the discussion about multinode? So, it will be available soon))

@yury said in Wall Socket Insertable Node: Looks cool! Do you have experience with capacities switches? I did not play much with them. afraid to use close to AC interference though... You need to use a capacitive IC with active shielding, basically you have an extra electrode around your touch electrode and the touch IC will compare capacitive change of the touch electrode with capacitive change from the shield electrode. If the change is due to electrical interference then both electrodes will be changed in a similar way and the IC will not trigger.

@mardah oh... you mean pin change system, not extint. You can use it of course.

Hello. Are these modules still in operation? As it is already an old project I would like to know the reliability and energy consumption? Thanks

The choice of MOSFET can be tricky. Seems that irlz44n was discontinued so you may need to find one adapted to the voltage and current you want to handle. In all the cases you need to get a logic MOSFET too, meaning that they are fully open usually around 1 to 3V. Also I'm sort of confused as it seems to me that L7812CV is a Voltage regulator, not a MOSFET. So if you are actually using that in the MOSFET spot it will definitively not work. Especially if you are handling high current or voltage I would recommend using one from a reputable source for your MOSFET, I recently switched from mouser / digikey / aliexpress to mostly use http://www.arrow.com as you get free regular shipping, event if you order a couple of components (no affiliation to them whatsoever).

@MiKa Hi. oki, in case i'll add some explanation.. I'll be busy for this week but you can simply use the serial gw example from MySensors for getting started, this should work. I didn't need to create a special board in arduino for this board, so if you're using it, you'll need to install&use the mattairtech SAMD21 board definition for the pin mapping. https://github.com/mattairtech/ArduinoCore-samd

@GertSanders ok, strange. standard pin headers fit for me only into FTDI and ICSP pin holes. Into the other two 8 pin rows it does not fit.

@scalz Thanks for your answer. Assembling a sensor by my own is not really what I want (or am able to achieve). So buying assembled sensor is the only option for me. Thus probably commercially available sensors will fit better, since they can use the scaling factor of assembling a huge amount of sensors. My HA is driven by cost to performance ratio, where cost also include somewhat the amount of time to invest and performance also covers things like the ease of use, appearance etc. Interesting to hear though that those commercial sensors might be less premium regarding the part quality, battery life etc.

@Fabien: Thanks!

@MiKa which box are you referring to? Generic boxes are available here: https://www.mysensors.org/store/boxes

@fets So far, I have only built the 5x5 board (but the others should be schematically identical). The only issue I have found so far is that I cannot get the ISP port to work. But I have checked and I have an identical setup on the 1.0 board and that worked, so I suspect the programmer is too weak to drive the net on this one. So it is not a board-issue per se, and might only be an issue on the 5x5 board as routing is the most complex on that one due to the size.

@mfalkvidd Yes, that’s the one.