I have already published all the documentation, on my website, GitHub and openhardware.io For now I leave the node as finished. SmartHome: Wireless LED RGBW Controller – 00:55— giltesa

I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them. https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome

@kalina, Thanks. So it will not work for my configuration. Wall switch (push button) is already installed. No possibilities to draw more electrical wires. Moreover, if i put the board near the light, i have just the Neutral and the return wire from the wall switch. No Live wire to power on the mysensors board. I think in my ase the best way is to manage everything in my garage in the electrical main board where all the wires are mapped. I can get L + N for mysensors power supply. And i can continue to reuse the original wall switch independently of the Mysensors board.

@NeverDie Sorry for delay... This is example (improved version with 3d printed fixer)

Hello, can you post BOM please, according to schematics tantalum schould be 100uF bat tantalum cap in picture is 4.7uF

I will add that these device fits near perfectly into these box: https://www.castorama.pl/produkty/instalacja/instalacje-elektryczne/systemy-i-osprzet-instalacyjny/puszki/natynkowe/puszka-natynkowa-pawbol-klik-ip54-90-x-45-mm.html It's Polish product so it could be hard to fine in other countries but it costs about the 1 EURO!

I look forward to seeing photos....

Ah.... Ok

BTW, I like how you both made a case for it. Very nice!

Hi @koresh - I had a little accident on the AC side :-). I was wondering what values the 2 resistors (TH and SMD) and diode are ? Thanks!

@bjornhallberg @Koresh That's what I wrote a few posts above - start with the capacitors My suggestion - get a decent DMM. Brymen BM235 or 121GW or any Fluke. Measuring a sleeping current is challenging and some unexpansive Chinese DMM manage it just really well. BUT! You do not want to waist your time just because your meter is crap and was completely off on some readings.

@Koresh I do like it, i just worry for people that use their main PC as a controller. Easily knockable/damageable unless they use a rear socket.

@gohan Yes, you are right, this is done by cnc router.

Any plans on an rf69 version?

The new batch of the MDMSGate (without an enclosure and cheaper) is already available.... MDMSGate (without enclosure) $31.75 2 available

@yury said in Wall Socket Insertable Node: Looks cool! Do you have experience with capacities switches? I did not play much with them. afraid to use close to AC interference though... You need to use a capacitive IC with active shielding, basically you have an extra electrode around your touch electrode and the touch IC will compare capacitive change of the touch electrode with capacitive change from the shield electrode. If the change is due to electrical interference then both electrodes will be changed in a similar way and the IC will not trigger.

@mardah oh... you mean pin change system, not extint. You can use it of course.

@Koresh said in Button size radionode: @chbla Thank you for your attention to this project. The project button size node with extension is improved version of these project. So those project implements all of features. Moreover last week I ordered improved version of those pcb. If you do not need extention you can just cut it. I plan to place order in the local factory in a week. So if you want I can make some boards without battery holder and extra sensors. Thanks! I found it meanwhile great work

The choice of MOSFET can be tricky. Seems that irlz44n was discontinued so you may need to find one adapted to the voltage and current you want to handle. In all the cases you need to get a logic MOSFET too, meaning that they are fully open usually around 1 to 3V. Also I'm sort of confused as it seems to me that L7812CV is a Voltage regulator, not a MOSFET. So if you are actually using that in the MOSFET spot it will definitively not work. Especially if you are handling high current or voltage I would recommend using one from a reputable source for your MOSFET, I recently switched from mouser / digikey / aliexpress to mostly use http://www.arrow.com as you get free regular shipping, event if you order a couple of components (no affiliation to them whatsoever).

@MiKa Hi. oki, in case i'll add some explanation.. I'll be busy for this week but you can simply use the serial gw example from MySensors for getting started, this should work. I didn't need to create a special board in arduino for this board, so if you're using it, you'll need to install&use the mattairtech SAMD21 board definition for the pin mapping. https://github.com/mattairtech/ArduinoCore-samd

@GertSanders ok, strange. standard pin headers fit for me only into FTDI and ICSP pin holes. Into the other two 8 pin rows it does not fit.

@scalz Voalá! 5.2uA consumption with flash in Ultra Deep Power-Down! Will have to test OTA functionality though (waking up from Ultra Deep Power-Down), but in my experience this is going to be very hard on a coin battery.

@Fabien: Thanks!

@MiKa which box are you referring to? Generic boxes are available here: https://www.mysensors.org/store/boxes

@fets So far, I have only built the 5x5 board (but the others should be schematically identical). The only issue I have found so far is that I cannot get the ISP port to work. But I have checked and I have an identical setup on the 1.0 board and that worked, so I suspect the programmer is too weak to drive the net on this one. So it is not a board-issue per se, and might only be an issue on the 5x5 board as routing is the most complex on that one due to the size.

@djbonet you’re welcome. If I remember correctly, the datasheet diagram shows the limit for 8MHz to be 2.4V