This sunday a friend of mine and I did not know what to build. So we decided to use a project designed by @Yveaux
Source

I received 2 new CDEByte antennas that needed a range test. As I live in a mansion.... Next to a park we figured out that walking 1 degrees outside would be an excellent time to do a range test. It was not raining so.....

Our conclusion would be:

• Cheap ass NRF... good enough for indoor usage.. if it can mesh.
• Cheap ass Amplified NRF.. good enough in the house, needs a bit more space and power, but works quite well.
• CDEByte... not cheap.. but man my hands were freezing outside due to the long range.. And according to @Yveaux we could achieve a higher range if we would have set the power to MAX... During testing this was MIN.

With help of @dbemowsk @sundberg84 I was able to complete my "CV All in one sensor" using the easy PCB.
It now replaces 2 Arduino Nanos with only 1 Easy PCB. Currently the 0,1u Capacitor is missing, however as I was told by the designer it still could work. And it does.

This node:

• monitors the pipes of my central house heating,
• Is able to detect if the heating unit has a leakage.
• Switches on the light if the door is opened
• if the humidity in the bathroom becomes to high, or somebody is cooking.. It will start the BRINKS central WTW.
• Can reset my OTGW unit if it has a lock up.

And so it it almost Christmas...

Jolly jolly.. wel actually no....

We have had wet feet from the central heating system serveral times now around Christmas or New Year.
Causing a wet floor and other possible disasters. Yes I know.. A Central Heating Mechanism should not leak, you could try putting a bucket underneath... But that is not 'that home automation' smart that I was looking for.

So to detect a leakage.... I came up with this some time ago.

Pretty standard, a few wires... a Mysensors Node... and Pushover to send me urgens notifications about the leakge.

link url))

And ladies and gentlemen it actually works as you can see in the pushover sreenshot, it kicked off today.

Well as you can see, my prototyping skills are not at the level of @dbemowsk (always interested in the under side of the boards, mine look .. yeah a mess?), however I managed to create this enclosure (once closed looks nice enough).

It should control the programmable LED lights in my livingroom (900 pieces).The board is powered 5v from the same power supply as the LED's. In addition it needs to measure the lux in the livingroom to decide if it is dark enough to turn on the lights.

Initial tests looked okay, however after finding 56 effects in the Doll House of @Yveaux I decided to use that FX library as well. However the Arduino Mega is out of RAM to accomodate a full controll of the 900 LEDS. It will only control around 650 LEDS with that FX library.

After being in contact with @Yveaux we decided to use an ESP solution. I have a spare NodeMCU v3 that can house the ESP gateway sketch and will have enough memory to controll the LEDs. Well now I have to look for a nice prototyping thing/case for the NodeMCU and add a level shifter as well. The LED's control line wants to be controlled by at least 3,7v.

This is the nice thing about these kind of projects.. "There is always something to do"

Finally, the last day of my holiday I managed to upload the Mysensors Sketch into the NodeMCU to control my 900 LEDS. It will also read the lux intensity in the livingroom. So if it is dark the lights will switch on.

All is based on @Yveaux Mysensors ESP Gateway port. On a rainy saterday last year @Yveaux and I found out we did not have to modify anything on the voltag level for driving the LEDS.

The sketch includes all the Doll_House animations (around 55) that can be skipped through using an old 433mhz remote (or via interface directly ofcourse) Next stop... Installing 15 meters of LED in the livingroom. pffff

And putting everything inside this little box @Yveaux printed for me.

Hi

After starting with MySensors 2.0.x I did not find an example for my KY015 Humidity and Temperature sensor.
(maybe have to do a new git pull first....)

So i created one myself that does work nicely with my still 1.5.4 serial Gateway at the other end of the house.
Example: https://github.com/sincze/mysensors-2..0.x-temperature-humidity

Maybe somebody else is happy with it as well.
I'll be adding a doorsensor alsol so I can measue temperature / humidity in the room as well as turn on the lights when the door is opened.

I've read a lot of posts here and wanted to monitor the state of my ALARM system in Domoticz (not control it).

With all your posts and input from @yveaux I combined it to the following.

2 buck converters, an arduino and some wiring.

The alarm will set 12v on PGY / PGX connectors if set and 0v if unset.

We only need to convert that 12v into an acceptable input voltage for ARDUINO digital in.
I used the buck converter for this purpose, 4,45v is sufficient to trigger digital 1.
and the 0v ... digital 0.
Don't use the internal pull up resistor of this pin

I tried powering the Arduino from the alarm as well with the separate buck converter... however that was nu success. Could not figure out why. Pins became unresponsive.

The arduino is now powered by separate power supply from the ISP modem...

And the final result:

.

I will post the code on my github. So everybody can have a look at it if they want.
https://github.com/sincze/jablotron_Mysensors_2.0.1

In addition I also added a doorsensor. Should somebody open the door I'm also notified.

And all thanks to MySensors.

I wanted to have my Renovent HR Large from Brink Climate Systems automated.
Unfortunately Brink offered a € 300 solution to do this wireless within the house

I thought.. Well it must be possible to use one of the Mysensors sketches to do so.

By default this system comes with a 3 way switch that is connected to an rj11 plug on the Renovent.
The RJ11 has 3 cables

• Yellow
• Red
• Black

After figuring out how the 3 way switched worked it was an easy task with one of the example sketches.

• Yellow + Black = Switch_2
• Red + Black = Switch_3
• By default nothing is connected = Switch_1.

If you would like to measure voltage you will measure aroun 13,88v on

• yellow-black
• red-black.

The sketch can be found here:
0_1500406156812_sketch_jul16a_-_Brinks_WTW.ino

You will need 2 Relais if you want to switch Switch_2 and Switch_3.
Please see attached the prototype... available for around €10 .

And then within Domoticz I can control it.

If the humidity in the bathroom is over 58% kick on the fan

Oh btw. don't forget to connect the ground of the Relais to the Ground of the Arduino, otherwise it will not work.

Happy Mysensors day.

sincze.

@TheoL, @ericvdb I updated the presentation (at the top) with the pictures I received indeed.

Just an update regarding the Renovent Climate system:
I created the following cheat sheet:

To be able to read the 'filter' value I converted the default RJ11 to RJ12.
Now it should be able to warn me that I need to change the filter.

As I use the EasyPCB and already used all available pins on the prototype board, I had to solder an extra wire to pin 8.
Q: How do I access A2, A3 and D8? A: They are not accesses through the PCB, so you need to directly solder to the pro mini.

As this Pin 8 is not used with pull up resistor (I thought it was dangerous to do that because adding 3v of the Renovent would kill the input.) I needed to build some sort of pull-down resistor from keeping the input pin from floating. And hell yes it was floating like hell (resulting in a lot of messages, that even the debouncer was unable to deal with).

Normally when the filter is 'clean' there is a 0v on P8. If the filter needs to be cleaned there is a +/- 3v on P8

This how it was solved:

Sorry to bump this all thread back to 2018, but I have a question.
Is it already possible to use MySensors and this all in one P1 domoticz sensor? (usage1,2 / return1,2)

The examples I can find create 2-4 new sensors in Domoticz. I'm looking forward to the possibilitie if it can be done with one

It can be done with a P1 http request but as a MySenors user I want to do it with mysensors.

The idea is to use this PCB as P1 and Watermeter

@tbowmo interesting indeed, tnx for sharing. Currently I still use Domoticz for the API Logging is done with INFLUX and Grafana. However in addition to Domoticz I use Pass2PHP. I can now control everything with PHP. PHP seems pretty common so a lot of examples I can find online ;-0. I am a complete MQTT / NODE-RED NOOB.

@marsault6 If you are going to use an ESP8266 (like nodeMCU) you can configure it as an actual mysensors gateway + Node. The Node would be your watermeter.

I received my unit today. Let's see if we can make the baby talk MySensors.

Finally, the last day of my holiday I managed to upload the Mysensors Sketch into the NodeMCU to control my 900 LEDS. It will also read the lux intensity in the livingroom. So if it is dark the lights will switch on.

All is based on @Yveaux Mysensors ESP Gateway port. On a rainy saterday last year @Yveaux and I found out we did not have to modify anything on the voltag level for driving the LEDS.

The sketch includes all the Doll_House animations (around 55) that can be skipped through using an old 433mhz remote (or via interface directly ofcourse) Next stop... Installing 15 meters of LED in the livingroom. pffff

And putting everything inside this little box @Yveaux printed for me.

@kimot said in Combining MySensors examples:

MockMySensors

Haha tnx glad I learned something today. Did not know about this example

@bluezr1 I can imagine your struggle. Have had my fair share as well. The following code is running stable and has around 9 sensors it is serving. Maybe you can grab the pieces you need for your nodes. Unfortunately did not make a video.

@andrew said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

András Kabai

Nice video András

Just an update regarding the Renovent Climate system:
I created the following cheat sheet:

To be able to read the 'filter' value I converted the default RJ11 to RJ12.
Now it should be able to warn me that I need to change the filter.

As I use the EasyPCB and already used all available pins on the prototype board, I had to solder an extra wire to pin 8.
Q: How do I access A2, A3 and D8? A: They are not accesses through the PCB, so you need to directly solder to the pro mini.

As this Pin 8 is not used with pull up resistor (I thought it was dangerous to do that because adding 3v of the Renovent would kill the input.) I needed to build some sort of pull-down resistor from keeping the input pin from floating. And hell yes it was floating like hell (resulting in a lot of messages, that even the debouncer was unable to deal with).

Normally when the filter is 'clean' there is a 0v on P8. If the filter needs to be cleaned there is a +/- 3v on P8

This how it was solved:

I found out that the brinks solution I build some time ago could be upgraded with a nice additional feature. 'Filter detection'.

I created a cheat sheet as my device was equiped with RJ11 connector and 3 wires. I needed to convert it to RJ12 with filter detection.

A nice black conversion box Output wires are the same colour as the original RJ 1 wire. With 2 extra wires 3,3v or 5v for the digital 'one' on the arduino.