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Sorry to bump this all thread back to 2018, but I have a question.
Is it already possible to use MySensors and this all in one P1 domoticz sensor? (usage1,2 / return1,2)
The examples I can find create 2-4 new sensors in Domoticz. I'm looking forward to the possibilitie if it can be done with one ;-)
It can be done with a P1 http request but as a MySenors user I want to do it with mysensors.
The idea is to use this PCB as P1 and Watermeter ;-)
@tbowmo interesting indeed, tnx for sharing. Currently I still use Domoticz for the API Logging is done with INFLUX and Grafana. However in addition to Domoticz I use Pass2PHP. I can now control everything with PHP. PHP seems pretty common so a lot of examples I can find online ;-0. I am a complete MQTT / NODE-RED NOOB.
@marsault6 If you are going to use an ESP8266 (like nodeMCU) you can configure it as an actual mysensors gateway + Node. The Node would be your watermeter. ;-)
Finally, the last day of my holiday I managed to upload the Mysensors Sketch into the NodeMCU to control my 900 LEDS. It will also read the lux intensity in the livingroom. So if it is dark the lights will switch on.
All is based on @Yveaux Mysensors ESP Gateway port. On a rainy saterday last year @Yveaux and I found out we did not have to modify anything on the voltag level for driving the LEDS. ;)
The sketch includes all the Doll_House animations (around 55) that can be skipped through using an old 433mhz remote (or via interface directly ofcourse) Next stop... Installing 15 meters of LED in the livingroom. pffff ;-)
And putting everything inside this little box @Yveaux printed for me.
@kimot said in Combining MySensors examples:
MockMySensors
Haha tnx glad I learned something today. Did not know about this example ;-)
@bluezr1 I can imagine your struggle. Have had my fair share as well. The following code is running stable and has around 9 sensors it is serving. Maybe you can grab the pieces you need for your nodes. Unfortunately did not make a video.
Just an update regarding the Renovent Climate system:
I created the following cheat sheet:
To be able to read the 'filter' value I converted the default RJ11 to RJ12.
Now it should be able to warn me that I need to change the filter.
As I use the EasyPCB and already used all available pins on the prototype board, I had to solder an extra wire to pin 8.
Q: How do I access A2, A3 and D8? A: They are not accesses through the PCB, so you need to directly solder to the pro mini.
As this Pin 8 is not used with pull up resistor (I thought it was dangerous to do that because adding 3v of the Renovent would kill the input.) I needed to build some sort of pull-down resistor from keeping the input pin from floating. And hell yes it was floating like hell (resulting in a lot of messages, that even the debouncer was unable to deal with).
Normally when the filter is 'clean' there is a 0v on P8. If the filter needs to be cleaned there is a +/- 3v on P8
This how it was solved:
I found out that the brinks solution I build some time ago could be upgraded with a nice additional feature. 'Filter detection'.
I created a cheat sheet as my device was equiped with RJ11 connector and 3 wires. I needed to convert it to RJ12 with filter detection.
A nice black conversion box Output wires are the same colour as the original RJ 1 wire. With 2 extra wires 3,3v or 5v for the digital 'one' on the arduino.
@dbemowsk You are correct ;-) , well at least I thought I bought those but got: SK6812 RGBW (comparable to ws2812b). The pretty work just fine.
@dbemowsk Well first I started with my all time favourite... the Nano, as I have prototyping boards available.;-) but even with some simple light shows it did not have enough memory to hold de states of each individual 900 LEDs.
I moved to the Mega. as it has more memory. My sketch worked fine so I started to build the node in its box. I also looked at the Github for the Doll House inspiration. I found the library that had 56 effects. So I thought why not use that one... Migrated my sketch, did a few tests with 300 LEDS, completed the enclosure and only than found out It could not controll all the 900 leds, due to memory issue. Insufficient RAM.
But as this forum is a learning curve for me please feel free to share your thoughts. I always look at examples from others and see what I can do with it myself. I don't have fancy PCB equipment, justs a soldering iron and my own Aliexpress wearhouse with components ;-)
Well as you can see, my prototyping skills are not at the level of @dbemowsk (always interested in the under side of the boards, mine look .. yeah a mess?), however I managed to create this enclosure (once closed looks nice enough).
It should control the programmable LED lights in my livingroom (900 pieces).The board is powered 5v from the same power supply as the LED's. In addition it needs to measure the lux in the livingroom to decide if it is dark enough to turn on the lights.
Initial tests looked okay, however after finding 56 effects in the Doll House of @Yveaux I decided to use that FX library as well. However the Arduino Mega is out of RAM to accomodate a full controll of the 900 LEDS. It will only control around 650 LEDS with that FX library.
After being in contact with @Yveaux we decided to use an ESP solution. I have a spare NodeMCU v3 that can house the ESP gateway sketch and will have enough memory to controll the LEDs. Well now I have to look for a nice prototyping thing/case for the NodeMCU and add a level shifter as well. The LED's control line wants to be controlled by at least 3,7v.
This is the nice thing about these kind of projects.. "There is always something to do"
Almost Christmas, that means... Lights. In this case programmable 5v LED's that are driven by an Arduino and controlled via Mysensors & Domoticz.
While the arduino sketch has a lot of tricks (showing animations).. I still have to figure out HOW I can stop an animation from playing when I want to see the next one.. It now completes the first animation.. and then starts the one I selected. It needs to break from the function if a new message comes in. I'll have to look for some examples in the forum.
@manutremo As the water indeed is 'rock' solid here in the area I was pretty succesfull using the digital pins. A short... when there is a water connection or open... when there is no connection. No false alarms. Only legit... Each leakage costs me money to get some guy to fix it for me. But at least the floor is not ruined anymore as I had that the first 2 times.
@neverdie Great tip, this will resolve in even a quicker response during a flood right?. I already added toilet paper as cover for a smooth moist/water distribution. Lets add some salt to that and hopefully never see an error message again. But I wont bet a bitcoin on that ;-).. Happy with this cheap solution.
