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Talk about fun sensor hardware, MCUs, PCBs and how to power your sensors here.
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  • Is soldering castellated pads on THT pads feasible?

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    J
    @Joost Added two photos to the project page. KiCAD/rendering still to follow.
  • Automatic stairs led lighting arduino shield

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    Max MullerM
    I like the lighting effect on the stairs too. It looks great.
  • 0 Votes
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    alowhumA
    It's not a perfect pin-out match. You should definitely check out this thread: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/10327/rf-nano-nano-nrf24-for-just-3-50-on-aliexpress/1 But you're right, it's great for beginners. That's why it forms the basis of the Candle project.
  • This topic is deleted!

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  • Security OTA Sketch

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    AnticimexA
    @Anduril Well, its all opensource, so you are free to do whatever you want. Just remember that if you are starting to alter the behaviour and use of the security infrastructure, you could potentially compromise it for yourself and those that use your code.
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    BearWithBeardB
    No, I didn't seriously consider it. I have a minimal programming circuit with ZIF-sockets to program DIPs, but those are easily removed from a circuit (assuming they are put into sockets and not soldered) in case they need to be reproprammed . Doing this with a TQFP seems like a one-way road, so I think a way for in-circuit programming should be provided regardless. I mean, I didn't have to reprogram my first revision nodes so far, but I might want to add signing support later on or upgrade to MySensors 2.4 or 3.0 for some reason, so it should definitely be possible, but I'm not too worried, if the programming process is a little cumbersome, if the SOICbite experiment doesn't work out.
  • BT832XE how activate RX PA

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  • What happened to ceech?

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    alexsh1A
    @mfalkvidd said in What happened to ceech?: I don't know, but according to https://forum.mysensors.org/user/ceech last time online in this forum was September 2017. His eBay shop is empty. Not a good sign...
  • How to power my sensors in a rental?

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    Nca78N
    @mirodin said in How to power my sensors in a rental?: using normally closed reed switches You can "convert" those by reverting the orientation of the magnet on your door, then adding another magnet (weaker or further away) inside the node enclosure to keep the reed switch closed when you open the door. When the door is closed the reversed magnet on the door will open the reed switch. To do even better you can use : reed switches with 3 leads that work as both normally opened and normally closed switches, and wire them to the 2 interrupt pins. I used that on my first nodes and managed to get reeeeaaaally long battery life on a simple CR2032. When door status changes the node is woken up then you set pin low and current could run only a very short time, you send the message with new status then you activate the other interrupt pin and go back to sleep https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33028519094.html if you're not afraid with SMD there are some ultra low power hall switches, using less than 1uA of current like the DRV5032.
  • Temperature sensor housing DS18B20

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  • Yet another way to get longer battery life for the nRF24L01+

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  • IoT for retail & sensors

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    C
    I also suggest using MP3 shields and modules with jack output.
  • ¿Livolo and Wifi?

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  • antenna diversity

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    P
    @benhub do you have the code the links seem dead? Ive been trying to get 2 temp/hum sensors (DHT22) working in domoticz for quite a while now with no luck. The temp/hum data in domotcz keeps swapping around from one sensor to the other and i cant work out why.
  • ESP32 485

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  • Looking for very simple rocker switch

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    alowhumA
    @Nca78 said in Looking for very simple rocker switch: So huge that the pins are in fact way too big (0.8*1.2mm section) to fit on a breadboard or in a Dupont connector Hahaha, that's hilarious :-D Thanks for trying though, really appreciate it!
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  • Radio compatibility question

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    garfiusG
    @nagelc Thaaaanks! Your answer is valuable to anyone.
  • MySensors shield and RGBW Controller

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    TRS-80T
    @LastSamurai, Very nice project you have here! Thank you for taking the time to post/share your work! At first I thought it might be exactly what I was looking for, but reading through everything now I am not so sure. I have been studying various ways (Wi-Fi, 433/315 Mhz RF, MySensors) to implement controlling RGB lights and I initially thought Wi-Fi (while readily available, easy, and cheap) might be too "slow" in response time, which got me thinking to use MySensors (with NRF24) instead, which led me to this thread (among others). Something concerned me though, I see in your GitHub for this project you stated: Project frozen/final - This project is done from my side. It has been working for years but I switched to another solution so I won't update this anymore. and on your OpenHardware page: Update2: They have been running for about 2 years now mostly without problems. The only disadvantage is that my Mysensors network overall is quite "slow" (~1s reaction time). I am currently experimenting with Wifi RGBWW controllers (H801) so there wont be to many more updates to this project Which made me want to ask you what you are using now? It seems to me that those MagicHome type Wi-Fi (or RF) RGB controllers would be pretty hard to beat price wise, I don't think I could implement similar functionality (including packaging, etc.) for the same amount of money, and that's before even counting my time. Also I am still struggling with reliability of my MySensors network in general, but I hope to be able to still solve this as it seems that many others have been able to (but that is a different subject altogether).

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