Great work @mcchots, thanks for reporting back

Please add the documents required by the CERN license used.

@tekka I see. Thanks for explaining.

Congratulations @BearWithBeard, that's a great achievement, especially from someone supposed to be a "novice". I'm sure many can learn from your lessons, the most important one to me is "don't rush it", it goes with "triple check schematic then board", "unit test your components" and "don't finish late at night". Else you will probably end up with mistakes on PCB and a lot of wasted time. For reverse polarity protection, I think this is the more simple solution: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/5478/how-to-get-longest-battery-life/25

I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them. https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome

Please append support RS485

@kalina, Thanks. So it will not work for my configuration. Wall switch (push button) is already installed. No possibilities to draw more electrical wires. Moreover, if i put the board near the light, i have just the Neutral and the return wire from the wall switch. No Live wire to power on the mysensors board. I think in my ase the best way is to manage everything in my garage in the electrical main board where all the wires are mapped. I can get L + N for mysensors power supply. And i can continue to reuse the original wall switch independently of the Mysensors board.

The RPI becomes an ethernet gateway.

@torfinn said in ATMega328p 8Mhz internal, standalone, mysensors low power problem: #define MY_REGISTRATION_FEATURE Disabled This has no effect, the correct approach would be to comment this line: https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/blob/master/MyConfig.h#L146

Ah.... Ok

@gohan said in Arduino Pro Mini Shield for RFM69(H)W: If I remeber right that pin is used as input so the RFM69 is not receiving any 5v signal. In addition there are people claming they have the RFM69 module working on 5v on data pins and 3.3v on vcc, but I hardly suggest to do it. thank you just what i thought . about direct 5v on data...well... i seen a big red sign saying n :DONT do it! lol Level converters are so cheap...that i ordered 5 or 10 thoguether with rfm69 board. sorry about hijack this topic, i though i was on general discussion

I decided to fix the broken trace I so naively destroyed while breaking the power LED out with a screwdriver. The image from @tripy really helped to figure out which trace I actually broke. It helped a lot to desolder the voltage regulator as well, leaving me with pads I can solder to. I left the regulator out after the repair since I am running the thing from 5V USB. With the regulator out of the way the correct pad was easily identified. Maybe someone else finds this useful, definitly saved my kitchen lighting project today