I have a strong feeling that I got the wrong diode for the rectification of the triangular wave that comes out after the capacitive sensor (RC circuit). I got this one: https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Schottky-Barrier-Diodes-SBD_Guangdong-Hottech-SS14L_C190475.html In the datasheet it says that this diode has a Typical Junction Capacitance of between 90 and 110 pF which seems pretty high compared to the capacitance of the sensor. Do I need a diode with a lower capacitance? Can someone give me a hint if I am on the right track? Thank you Edit: Okey I switched the smd diode with an all purpose tht diode that I had lying around and now the voltage swing is already at 1.1V so it definitely is the diode. Any recommendations on diode selection for high frequency (1-4MHz) applications?

Great work @mcchots, thanks for reporting back

Please add the documents required by the CERN license used.

@tekka I see. Thanks for explaining.

No, I didn't seriously consider it. I have a minimal programming circuit with ZIF-sockets to program DIPs, but those are easily removed from a circuit (assuming they are put into sockets and not soldered) in case they need to be reproprammed . Doing this with a TQFP seems like a one-way road, so I think a way for in-circuit programming should be provided regardless. I mean, I didn't have to reprogram my first revision nodes so far, but I might want to add signing support later on or upgrade to MySensors 2.4 or 3.0 for some reason, so it should definitely be possible, but I'm not too worried, if the programming process is a little cumbersome, if the SOICbite experiment doesn't work out.

I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them. https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome

Please append support RS485

@kalina, Thanks. So it will not work for my configuration. Wall switch (push button) is already installed. No possibilities to draw more electrical wires. Moreover, if i put the board near the light, i have just the Neutral and the return wire from the wall switch. No Live wire to power on the mysensors board. I think in my ase the best way is to manage everything in my garage in the electrical main board where all the wires are mapped. I can get L + N for mysensors power supply. And i can continue to reuse the original wall switch independently of the Mysensors board.

The RPI becomes an ethernet gateway.

@torfinn said in ATMega328p 8Mhz internal, standalone, mysensors low power problem: #define MY_REGISTRATION_FEATURE Disabled This has no effect, the correct approach would be to comment this line: https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/blob/master/MyConfig.h#L146

Ah.... Ok

@gohan said in Arduino Pro Mini Shield for RFM69(H)W: If I remeber right that pin is used as input so the RFM69 is not receiving any 5v signal. In addition there are people claming they have the RFM69 module working on 5v on data pins and 3.3v on vcc, but I hardly suggest to do it. thank you just what i thought . about direct 5v on data...well... i seen a big red sign saying n :DONT do it! lol Level converters are so cheap...that i ordered 5 or 10 thoguether with rfm69 board. sorry about hijack this topic, i though i was on general discussion

I decided to fix the broken trace I so naively destroyed while breaking the power LED out with a screwdriver. The image from @tripy really helped to figure out which trace I actually broke. It helped a lot to desolder the voltage regulator as well, leaving me with pads I can solder to. I left the regulator out after the repair since I am running the thing from 5V USB. With the regulator out of the way the correct pad was easily identified. Maybe someone else finds this useful, definitly saved my kitchen lighting project today