Hardware

great news :) with the new nrf modules there is no more range problem :) for the gatewane i use nrf24l01+pa+lna and for the sensor node nrf24l01+. now from every place in my small flat the connection is perfect :)

ok. Thanks. then i will keep it with the nrf24.

@mfalkvidd said: e Thanks v:) the instructions were great, now lets see if the child or the dog gets the first try :)

@mfalkvidd Tnaks, I saw that Adafruit had a library and code or this that should be ESP8266 certified ... I'll try. Thanks for quick support

Anyone? Any clues?

@t1m0 I suggest you post it in Troubleshooting. Let me ask you if I understand your question correctly - your PIR is triggered randomly?

@Alexandre-Magno Hi! Look here: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardProMini Check the documentation/schematics section.

Hi, on gateway I'm using a NRF24L01+PA+LNA and everything works fine if I use NRF24L01+ or SI24R1 on sensor side. If I replace NRF24L01+PA+LNA with something different (NRF24L01+ or SI24R1 module) the communication does not work...

I built a dimmer for my sons bedside lamp -> https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4808/dimmable-led-actuator/15

@alexsh1 Hi Alex, I tested the Sanity check on the the Arduino sensor node, and status came back OK. However I could get this to work on the Raspberry Pi, seems like this function is not yet supported. At least I couldn't find any info on it using the "./configuration -h". I don't have a AMS1117 available so I can test that. I connected my Arduino Nano and NRF24L01+ to the Raspberry Pi via USB, that would really well. So I might just use this solution instead as I see little benefit of connecting the NRF24L01 directly to the GPIO pins on the Raspberry Pi. Next step is to start building some battery powered sensors that I can use, and get MyController setup properly.

@AWI said: @LastSamurai I can find a lot of these even on main stream sites Thanks a lot! My bad, I did look for KaKu (and overlooked the NL part ;) ).

@parachutesj this is the way SSRs work. I do not think you can test them without a load

Hi all, Thanks for the replies. Turns out my D1 was faulty, or becoming faulty. When I double-checked on the USB supply, it didn't work there either. Are they particularly static-sensitive? The output of the converter goes to the 5V & GND pins on the D1, and also to the 5V and GND connectors on the LEDs. I use pin D2 of the Wemos to send data to the LEDs, via a 470 ohm resistor. I specifically wanted to add the 12V to 5V converter because I plan to run these lights at the end of long wires (Xmas decorations), and was worried about voltage drop across the wires. Maybe it's a bit of overkill... when I checked, the lights work OK on 3.6V Cheers, Frank

@clio75 Just a warning. Just ignore it and be happy. ;)

@AWI said: e 5 volt is the refer Once again. Big thank you @AWI . As you understand I'm new to this battery thing and it's kind of driving me crazy :)

I use Abloy EL582 and with that you can either set it to be open as long as 12V is applied, or closed as long as 12V is applied. Simple as that. I control my doors with a KNX switch. If you go with a lock like this and have the door closed when no power is applied be ware that you need a key to open in from inside in case of fire.

@Vasil-Vasilev yes, you need to select which frequency (433 or 868 MHz) when you buy the radio module.

@mrwomble I have seen it and it's nice. Live in Sweden where the sun turn of at around 18:00 (6pm) so we need batteries :) Joke aside my are intended to be used for the two plants we have indoors.