Hardware

I was not able to upload a sketch with "arduino as ISP" so I whent back to my orginal idea to use a FTDI232(like I use for microPro). I looked into the schematic on the nano and the micro. I found that on the micro the DTR pin there is a capacitor between reset and DTR input.. But the reset pin on the Nano did not. So I modified one FTDI232 with a capacitor 0,1uF (See picture). [image: 1475261115252-upload-7dd5f974-3c47-4f1c-9813-0116635d687d] When I also crossed the TX/RX pins it finally works :+1:

This isn't working at all. First, yes you have fake chips, I have the same ones, but they work with the RF24 library just fine so far. Second, the payload should be either the current microseconds or a steadily incrementing number. The payload you're getting is the result of either bad power or incorrect pin out to your controller, usually the CE and CSN are wrong.

You can also use this solution. It's not extremely cheap but it's all already done, you can reprogram the ESP8266 inside to put a MySensors gateway sketch. https://www.itead.cc/smart-home/smart-socket-eu.html

@hek Thanks for pointing me in the right direction for searching the forum more effectively. Google is indeed a friend in this case! BR, Boozz

@bloody2k - if both recievers are 433mhz - I dont know. If you have one 2.4ghz reciever (like nr24l01+ or ESP) then no, its not the same wavelength and requiers different length on the antenna to perform.

OK, then I just screwed up something. Thanks for the info, so I know I can do this also with my old raspi one day. My old raspi dates 2011.12 on it. Well served.

@chrille Thanks, so a higher quality tools seems to be the better choice (like always^^). Does anyone else have any ideas?

The first link in https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4235/nice-push-buttons should do the trick, and the ones called "tact switches" further down in that thread.

Yes, But you have to use the development branch until 2.0.1 has been released (as presentation of attached sensors not work as intended in 2.0.0).

@jesper said: How to measure small vibration? I must measure when a vaskemasine stops , there are some who know what sensor i should use ? In another thread this module was suggested - I have no personal experience with it https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pc-lot-SW-420-Normally-Closed-Alarm-Vibration-Sensor-Module-Vibration-Switch-30512/32259757483.html Jan

Hello Mikael. Thanks to your help, I am getting closer to my final solution for a heating control project of my appartment. I am thinking in choosing a location for my esp8266 gateway in a room close to some of my sensors and actuators which could then be wired directly to this esp8266 circuit. This gateway will also have a RF component attached "nRF24L01+" and this will allow RF communication with the rest of the nodes. for any temperature sensor nodes which I cannot wire to the gateway I found very interesting the sensebender micro you mentioned in other post. For the radiator valve actuator I find very interesting a video on using a relay posted by petewill. I am also trying to understand the section about "AC-DC double solid state relay module" posted by Aproxx and Hex. I guess that module is meant to be used by lights rather than a water valve actuator which is more like a motor. My valve actuators require 230v, uses a maximum of 5 wats and they just have on/off possition. I hope I could use something like this AC-DC double solid state relay. I am looking forward to receive the pieces I ordered and start playing around. :-) Thanks again Carlos

@Martin-Tellblom said: Thank you, I try that first. I cut the red LED and let the blue one be (since it just blinks a couple of times when starting up) I would just desolder the led and volt. regulator. I find it harder to cut and I have destroyed some doing so.

depending on distance, another option (instead of NRF24) is to use RFM69, which is sub-ghz, which in general has a better radio coverage, than 2.4Ghz, like the NRF24 operates on. RFM69 can be combined with both arduino and esp8266.

Just a thought, but could this be done using rs485/rs232 as network transport? If it does work like a null modem, then it could be worth a shot. /Thomas

@xydix NRF modules are sensitive to power fluctuations, so take care that you have a stable source. Is the booster of good quality or producing noise on the power lines?. The converter can produce a high frequency signal on the powerline, also know as noise. You can try to filter the noise with a small capacitor like 100nF or maybee even smaller depending on the freqency of the noise coming from the booster. My problem was/is the distance between the GW and the sensor currently, other problems were related to power as well, solved for now (see above my findings) @rubyan Sounds like power trouble and/or distance between GW and sensor. Powering from the Nano is in genaral not a good thing. The supply might be to week. Use an external power source and some capacitors (see above) Also try to see if putting the GW and sensors at a distance helps.

@xydix no worries with voltage below 3.3V. On the pro mini the BOD (which will reset arduino if voltage is too low) is set at 2.7v so you have a lot of margin. I use some sensor with CR2032 cell battery which has a maximum voltage of 3.1 and it's not a problem. You need to be over the BOD voltage that's your only limit. If you are using a 8MHz pro mini it can run at this frequency down to 2.4V at least. NRF24 will run as low as 1.9V.

Thanks for the feedback. I have several graphs in my XTension Webremote that are showing my temperatures as a seesaw between whole degrees. Accuracy is fine, the half degree C is more than close enough, I just want the graphs to be smoother.

@scalz oh sweet. More info :) Very cool. Did anyone find a good location for the memory chips? I am not opposed to ali but amazon prime would be better :)

@activemind do you already have a BOM? and is there chance to help you out? I would be willing to assemble one or two of the boards :bowtie: