Hardware

Hello For answering to pins connection in continuous mode i think you can connect it to the pins you want, and poll or irq. But, RFM69 driver for Mysensors uses Packet Mode. not Continuous mode.

@axillent thanks and what is the smd coil that you use?

@samdel said: how do you measur the noisyness Empirically, I just couldn't get it working.

Hello, Theese relays is already with triacs. You could look at themes in here: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4020/controlling-an-inductive-ac-load/2 ...and here: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3238/ac-light-dimmer-with-2x-triac There is discusion about it, and also shematics. Check it :)

@ericvdb said: The problem is that when powered with 12V, the transmitter does not see the 5V on the data pin as high. Then maybe you can try on 9v as @TimO has suggested, this may be close enough to register the highs and still give you the range boost needed. Otherwise it would seem you will need some form of line level shift circuit as @dbemowsk has shown. The only other option would be a 5v transmitter like the Dorji or similar

@jumping Consider this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-TP5000-4-2V-3-6V-1A-Lithium-Battery-Charging-Board-Charger-Module/32756803176.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10065_10068_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10060_10061_10062_10056_10055_10037_10054_10033_10059_10032_10078_10079_10077_10073_10096_10070_10052_423_10050_424_10051,searchweb201603_2&btsid=e6d6960b-1c4d-48ce-b291-cde58e005c58 It's not as cheap as a TP4056, but it allows you to choose between battery technologies.

@mrwomble Yeah, the issue was probably due to the battery getting discharged during the OTA update, since that keeps the radio awake for a long time. So, should we use a 3.3V step up converter for this sensor?

@Tore-André-Rosander depending on how many leds you are running you could just put a diode in series with the supply, that will drop the voltage by about .5v which should still be ok. The diode will need to be able to handle the load of your leds though

@Ddawme - Hi! I suggest you read all the links in the project for example: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1607/safe-in-wall-ac-to-dc-transformers https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4175/clearance-creepage-and-other-safety-aspects-in-mysensors-pcbs

Here are 2 pics of my setup. The first pic is just of the Orange Pi and my gateway. The gateway is connected through one of the serial ports on the Orange Pi's GPIO pins. It can't be seen in the pic, but the top USB plug is for the external hard drive that has the OS on it. [image: controller_gateway_1.jpg] This pic includes my USB hub. The thing in slot 3 of the hub is my 1-Wire interface. The breadboard was from some things I had set up on my old R-Pi setup. May still hook up that RTC module, not sure yet. [image: controller_gateway_2.jpg]

@sundberg84 Can I assume that you are using power to DHT22 via a FET or directly from Arduino pin, so you are controlling when the DHT22 is getting power/voltage? I personally think using a DHT22 that requires min 3.3 V is not a good option for battery device - but I understand it can be managed ;-) http://www.datasheetcafe.com/dht22-datasheet-pdf/ DHT22: [image: 1478973631527-dht22.png] My opinion is is use HTU21D instead since it can operate on a much lower battery voltage. Watch out, some breakout boards have a 3,3V voltage regulator, that is just using battery consumption and isn't needed when using Arduino 3.3V 1Mhz battery operated [image: 1478974582712-htu21d.png]

Here are also some similar power supply and they ship really fast https://kutop.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=power+supply

@scalz Thanks for the reply, that sounds great!

@mk55 I have not seen any. https://www.adafruit.com/products/3077 has the radio module soldered on the same board as the mcu, but no sma.

No one have this problem?? Bueller... Bueller .... Bueller.... anyone?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161806126324 I am going to use these magnetic switches on my postbox lid. Haven't got them yet, so cant say if they are any good or not.

@Chester one is enough. They are connected to each other on the pcb. You can verify this by putting a multimeter in continuity mode or resistance mode and measure the resistance between the two ground pads. The resistance should be zero.

@micah I have had this happen to a couple of mine too. It only takes a few times before I learned never to apply 12v to the raw pin :grimacing: I have been able to revive all of my pro minis by soldering on a new capacitor here: [image: 1478302518407-upload-0e34ea93-e569-4bda-a128-01f155ebb85e]