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Talk about fun sensor hardware, MCUs, PCBs and how to power your sensors here.

  • ATMega32u4 + RFM69 + MySensors = Working!?

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    @gregl said: isn't the key difference of the two that one 32u4 has a built in USB controller, whereas the 328p doesn't and relies on an external USB controller (FTDI usually.) That's important, but there are many other differences vs ATMega328p. Offhand, there's an extra 0.5K RAM. Second 16 bit timer (Timer3) instead of 8 bit Timer2; plus high speed 10 bit Timer 4. SPI and TWI on different pin #'s (as seen by Arduino). More ADC pins, and a 10x/200x differential amplifier; different voltage ref (2.56v vs 1.1v). And various changes to interrupts or registers based on these. So some less-used libraries need porting, as well as changes to example code. Not sure how these differences affect the core of MySensors; you might have to try it out. There's a good chance that it would work, or that the changes needed would be minor. The Leonardo is gone from the Arduino.cc product line, but the Micro is still sold so presumably the chip continues to be supported.
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  • Shielding an NRF24l01+PA

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    @signal15 probably talking about http://blog.blackoise.de/2016/02/fixing-your-cheap-nrf24l01-palna-module/? I've not written it, but the foil touches the ground on the antenna socket. So yes, it needs to be grounded. In most cases it even works ungrounded though. Even a ungrounded shield has an effect on the circuit.
  • Newbie questions

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    signal15S
    Well, it's working now. I put a new power supply on it, and shielded the radio. Before I go dotting my house with sensors, is there anything I should do in MyConfig.h or anywhere else? It looks like debugging is turned on by default. Should I leave it? Also, even though I got it working, any insight to the above questions would certainly still be appreciated. [image: 1462224039067-img_20160502_161633.jpg]
  • Yet another PCB to address (nearly) all Arduino pins

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    @phil83 Share this on OpenHardware.io !
  • Multi-button relay switch without debounce

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    CJ CassarinoC
    @Anduril Yea thats what I thought, and I see it. Ill check this out thanks
  • Control leds with a mosfet

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    Thanks for your help guys. Got it up and running now :) I used the pulldown resistors but did not use the current limiting resistors at the gates. Afaik you don't really have to but I will add them in my next version. @Admin I think it would be a great idea to update the build part for the leds to also use these resistors and perhaps add some text for RGB(W) leds as there is support for them now.
  • NRF24L01+PA+LNA wiring question

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    parachutesjP
    @Matt Thanks for that. Will follow your advise. Actually I tested the radio with a few other Arduinos and all work except the one which I used in original post. So I guess this is faulty and already trashed. Cheers, SJ
  • PCB support

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    There are standards for PCB hole sizes. You can find Eagle parts for M2, M2.5, M3 drill holes with tight and loose clearance in my Eagle parts library. I created the parts from this blog page.
  • LM393 as pulse powermeter sensor, swap out 'photodiode'

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    OK so rather than wait for shipping from China I went to my local Jaycar and got one of these LDRs. If the link gets broken its a cadmium sulphine LDR with a rise time of 50ms and decay of 40ms. Works like a charm. Because its flat I can tape it directly to the LED in my power meter, covering the whole thing with black tape to ensure no ambient light problems. Two pinholes in the tape and the LDR leads go right through no probs. I have some thin wires going to the LM393 unit (so minimal weight on the LDR/Tape itself) and I guess the comparator in there is good enough to pick up the change in resistance on the LED pulses. So if you wind up with one of these units I recommend swapping the photodiode with a high spec LDR and soldering some leads from the module to the LDR to facilitate accurate fixing to the meters LED. I used two bits off an old length of ribbon cable (IDE HDD type stuff).
  • How to best power nrf+arduino (from 12V)

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    Ok the issue seems to have been a broken AMS. I just finished a second pcb and that one is working. The AMS gets hot but not so hot that you can't touch it any more. Seems to work now :+1: Now I just have to test the lighting part ;)
  • Led strip flashes when off

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    Well, uncomment the #define MY_LEDS_BLINKING_FEATURE and to be sure define all 3 LEDS to one (unused) pin. So you will make sure that is/is not the reason for the wrong behaviour.
  • DHT 11 can report decimals?

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    @moskovskiy82 if it's allways reporting x.0 than you store the result of the reading in a double of long. If you want to get rid of the decimals. You only have to cast the value to an int. This will truncate the value. long x = 2.3; Serial.println( (int)x ); will result in 2
  • Help with ACK ..

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  • Siren sounds with 555 timer and 5v Buzzer

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  • PCB, mains power

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    There is several projects on openhardware.io that does this and alot of discussions on the forum for safety regarding 220v to 5v. No project is without disclaimer that you use it on your own risk - because thats what we do here - diy. How I have understood it (can not garatee its right) is that FR4 is the worst material to use (offcourse since its cheapest) and therefore it requers the longest creepage and clearance. Also a good thing is to seperate high voltage (primary side) and low voltage (secondary). Use 3 mm as creepage. Also dont put it in a dirty/high humidity enviroment... this is how far i have come... but I still have alot of questions to work out... Some links: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1607/safe-in-wall-ac-to-dc-transformers https://www.openhardware.io/view/13/In-Wall-ACDC-Pcb-for-MySensors https://www.openhardware.io/view/77/AC-DC-double-solid-state-relay-module https://www.openhardware.io/view/83/Smart-Light-Switch-220v
  • What solder paste are you guys using?

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    I'm yet to venture into the world of expensive but quality solder and flux. I'm still using materials from Aliexpress. When i get into the more quality of boards i will bring in the extra cost of those high quality products. Thanks for your feedback guys!
  • Infrared Emitters/LEDs and Receivers

    infrared led irled infrared
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    @hek, thank you for that. I have had a quick look on his topics page and i will read through in more depth later on. I see he was the guy that created the IR Blaster than i was reading about a few months back. Looks a nice little module for universal controlling with IR. But again, by the looks of things i don't see any sort of PWM control going on with timers and what not. So unless this is handled through PWM pins (which i doubt because its all running through MOSFETS to power the IR LEDs equally) then it is just straight power to the LEDs when needed. I'm pretty sure that as long as the wavelength matches we're good to go without pulsing.
  • I think we can do better ;-)

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    K
    There is already another thread about this device -> http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3639/the-aaduino
  • Sensor pins

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    Lee GroomL
    @HarryDutch OMG your a genius, I do have LEDs on....I thought that only applied to gateways for some reason... Don't know why I didn't think of that :) Lee

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