Hardware

@jmd I guess you refer to my thoughts regarding the interesting battery voltages after 2AAs have been drained by a booster? - No, I've not yet researched anything more on that. Did you read this? http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2027/test-of-step-up-modules-sparkfun-pololu-china-module-any-other My conclusion is that testing is necessary to says something about the performance of these setups. My "105-test" is still going strong.

@rvendrame As far as I remember there are two similar power positive voltage (isolated) power supplies with the meter in the positive line. Then connect the positive line of no 1 to the negative line of no 2.

The regulator has 3 terminals, on one side, 2 on the other. Usually near 2 'large' capacitors

You could perhaps save the time when the GPIO input changes... and wait to do the DigitalWrite until some timeout (a second?). If you receive the ack from gateway, just reset the timeout and do exactly like you do today.

Actually, I use the FTDI connector on my outdoor weather sensor to power it from the solar/Li-Ion charger board. Used angled headers to keep the height down. I'll try to post a picture asap.

@alexsh1 said: @epierre The only downside is (1) price and (2) it cannot be used with batteries For these factors alone, the Figaro looks very appetizing.

I had problems with the range with some outdoor sensors. I didn't read the spec of this one, but read on a forum that this one was much better. But when I tested it, it was a uge different in range compared to the other unshielded with antenna.

@mfalkvidd said: You're welcome :) Note: I added a second set of measurements. Seems there is som variation in the manufacturing process. I just noticed those. I will put the pin pitch at around the 7.7mm mark to allow for variation either side and can bend them as needed.

@Jantle said: HLK-PM01 is the way it is - unless you use a different one or a new version comes out, you cannot change the distance between pins. With regards to the the left pins, there is nothing connected to those. And if you keep it that way by not connecting anything to them, I do not see how a problem can develop. Good point about the relay and nrf24l01+ - personally I am not using the relay on these boards and should be fine. Hello Bruno, I took a look at your PCB, hope you did not order it already as there is a big issue. Please see red circle in attached picture. Distance between traces is less than 0.3mm! Absolute recommended minimum between mains and other signals is 3mm for 230V. As soon as there is a connection or just significant capacitance to ground on the low Voltage part of your PCB (like human being or long wires to light switch) your arduino and rest will most likely immediately be destroyed

@Mike-Musskopf said: Hi @Reza , there's no need to increase the digital output voltage . You just need to have a 5V source somewhere and you can use a N-MOSFET to drive the relay. It would look like that: [image: KamFh.gif] Just ignore the "INPUT" it should be an OUTPUT on the diagram above. Also the MOSFET needs to have a lower VGs and support the current required by your Relay. Something like that should do the trick: http://au.element14.com/on-semiconductor/ntr4501nt1g/n-channel-mosfet-20v-3-2a-sot/dp/1431305. Just avoid the common mosfets like BS170 and BS250 as they need some high voltage on the Gate to actually let the current flow. The datasheet will always have a few charts showing how much current the mosfet let flow for different VGSs. Cheers, Mike M. hi thank you <3

Hello, is this Samsung USB charger fake or real ? It was purchased in retail store, not eBay...

I've added a warning at the top of the "review". I think we should keep this thread, better to inform people about the marketing methods used by this company than to silence it. Then people can make an informed decision whether they trust this company or not. Having this review publicly available for people searching for info on this oven is also good.

@Anticimex forget it, i wrapped my head arround it again and i'm totally wrong. :/ Sorry for the inconvenience caused. Just wanted to get it right. :)

@TheoL if one day you want to try ota+authentication on breadboard or add it to an existing node.. https://www.openhardware.io/view/18/OTA-and-Authentication-Evaluation-Board

@engy Hello. It's why I am using RFM69 as there is no fake :)

@Frank-Herrmann looks great! interested to know what driver are you using. I've being using it on RPI but with a MCU interfacing it via Canbus. Cheers

@Samuel235 said: Just one of many ideas, the possibilties are endless. I'de always go for RGB leds over just white, allows for more customisation while able to still give you the same white as the white leds. ... unless, as in my use case, colors are not needed. I'm too stingy to pay for the unused dry powder! ;)