Hardware

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  Arduino MKR1000
  17 Dec 2015, 20:51 • Heinz   18 Dec 2015, 21:12

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  18 Dec 2015, 21:12

  Interesting, it seems that it's the same MCU (SAM D21) that I'm working on in the GW.. Although, I don't have wifi on board..
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  NRF51822 as an "all-in-one"?
  12 Aug 2015, 21:51 • NeverDie   18 Dec 2015, 14:28

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  18 Dec 2015, 14:28

  There's some Nordic example code that allows both Bluetooth LE and nRF24-ish protocols to run simultaneously on this chip. Well, baby steps: I've made a start at porting it to Arduino and to the Nano mentioned above. So you can exchange messages over nRF24-ish radio whilst also seeing those devices and messages on your phone using a BLE client. You can then send messages back. (And all that on USB serial, too.) Take a look and see where you think we could take it next - there's a list of things at the end: https://github.com/DuncanCragg/Onix Cheers! Duncan
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  Power conservation with battery powered sensors
  battery • 23 Jul 2014, 01:56 • lininger   18 Dec 2015, 11:52

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  18 Dec 2015, 11:52

  @sundberg84 I also on my last work removed the LG33, it's faster Well this most likely have been provided as info, but else it's here: Remember to burn new OPTIBOOT 8MHz into the Arduino Pro Mini and then I also use avrdude with a usbtinyISP to set the fuse to not check battery voltage monitoring, this is done after I have flashed this with Arduino IDE avrdude -c usbtiny -p m328p -U efuse:w:0x07:m```
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  Hall effect sensor
  17 Dec 2015, 16:59 • pallavi99   17 Dec 2015, 17:31

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  17 Dec 2015, 17:31

  You need a linear hall efect sensor (output proportional to field strength). Search Ebay for A1301 Hall sensor. More information here: http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/HallEffect
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  port mysensors to nrf24le1?
  15 Dec 2015, 10:22 • jobarjo   15 Dec 2015, 13:14

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  15 Dec 2015, 13:14

  @jobarjo POC done. Please have a look here.
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  Cabling for new home
  14 Dec 2015, 22:32 • andriej   15 Dec 2015, 07:31

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  15 Dec 2015, 07:31

  Take a look here, maybe it help you a little bit
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  Mega 2560 fails upload after first try.
  13 Dec 2015, 10:10 • sundberg84   13 Dec 2015, 10:10

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  ESP 8266 gateway instructions for ESP12
  12 Dec 2015, 23:32 • moskovskiy82   13 Dec 2015, 06:35

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  13 Dec 2015, 06:35

  I think the instructions in the gateway sketch are quite clear: CSN/CS GPIO15 ... and ... Connect GPIO15 via 10K pulldown resistor to GND This will pull the GPIO to GND during flashing and allows control of CSN when the gateway code is running.
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  Board for Arduino Nano + nRF24l01 + Sensors
  11 Dec 2015, 08:18 • RobinLior   12 Dec 2015, 15:17

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  12 Dec 2015, 15:17

  This shield has a socket for nano and nRf (wired the MyS way) and has pin headers for all the remaining pins. It also has a separate power jack (7-12V) to provide regulated power to the exposed pins. $5 is a good deal for those wary of soldering.
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  Compact and low cost MySensors + NRF24L01 Board Project
  23 Nov 2015, 11:20 • frenchclem   11 Dec 2015, 08:42

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  11 Dec 2015, 08:42

  Small update here. I've been working on the routing part. it's been years since i played with the nets, and wires on Eagles ... Oh boy, its a mess ! and while placing, moving components, i was thinking , wow, the Balun filter, the NRF24L01 are going to be impossible to hand solder correctly ! and I don't really want to buy a microscope, a $300 soldering station, ... So I looked around and found something interesting so I post it here, if some makers don't know about it, and are afraid of SMD soldering : OSH also make stencil for you, Kapton stencil for $5 ! https://www.oshstencils.com/index.php then it's a peace of cake or is it ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RMtOAHbfvU Has anyone tried it before ? I'll definitely try it
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  Which ATmega do i go with?
  microcontroller atmega stand alone diy arduino • 7 Dec 2015, 17:05 • Samuel235   10 Dec 2015, 19:45

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  10 Dec 2015, 19:45

  @samuel235 I'm using genuine atmel programmers (currently I'm on jtagice3) been serving me fine for the last couple of years (also have the added benefits of being able to work together with gdb, so I can debug arduino code on my atmel sam D21 mcu) Anyways, there are lot's of (cheaper) programmers out there, amongst others you could use another arduino as programmer..
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  adding libraries in proteus
  10 Dec 2015, 17:14 • hasan   10 Dec 2015, 17:14

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  Error flashing bootloader to atmega328p au board I design
  7 Dec 2015, 05:20 • Mickey   8 Dec 2015, 23:28

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  8 Dec 2015, 23:28

  @AWI said: @Mickey Maybe you need to disconnect the radio. I am not able to use SPI programming with the radio connected... I also thought that but I made another board without the radio with the same error. I needed a fast way to figure it out so I desolder the atmega from an old arduino nano board but before I did it I read the fuses and got this: then I soldered the virgin series I have and read the fuses: so first of all It appears that I need the chips first hook up to an external clock just to be able to read the fuses and then change them.
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  This topic is deleted!
  8 Dec 2015, 15:28 • Tino   8 Dec 2015, 15:28

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  Serial Gateway Between Two Pro Mini's - More Info?
  3 Dec 2015, 21:41 • HopWorks   5 Dec 2015, 18:53

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  5 Dec 2015, 18:53

  OK, this worked and I am encouraged! I haven't figured out how to get the status LED's to work yet though, since they just stay on (after enabling it in the config H file). Unless I missed it though, I do not know what the fields are that are output via serial. If I do not find the info, I guess I could just reverse-engineer the software to figure out how to send simple data back and forth from each unit. Pretty cool library! Heavy though, but not as heavy as expected. I still have room for my RGB LED effects processing. Now I just need to see if my interrupt handling using timer1 is going to hose this library. Any thoughts?
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  ESP32 Announced
  5 Dec 2015, 09:12 • hek   5 Dec 2015, 09:52

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  5 Dec 2015, 09:52

  Video streaming! Yeah baby
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  Box for in wall pcb
  pcb inwall box • 4 Dec 2015, 01:28 • martinhjelmare   4 Dec 2015, 13:08

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  4 Dec 2015, 13:08

  @martinhjelmare: yep, I like the vid too. it's funny to see all these new materials. you are right, I will use parts of rollershutternode I think, for the ac powered version. for the batt powered, I will use my "camel" sensor board plus others thing of others boards I made. I totally agree with you. When I do something I try to keep things reusable. As I am originally software dev, I always think factorizing, libs like a toolbox...lol. But I think electronician do the same.
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  My sensorboard MYS 1.0beta
  18 Jul 2014, 09:23 • Mrlynx   30 Nov 2015, 10:32

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  30 Nov 2015, 10:32

  @jeti said: @Nicola-Reina said: Anybody wanting 10 kits at a bargain price. I am sellling them at bargain price due to lack of time to play with them. If you are in Rome I can hand it over directly . If you are at EU maker faire this week end even better see you there. Otherwise I ship them too KR Still got the 10Kits? You can still buy these kits from my homepage.
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  Getting the HC-SR501 to function first time
  29 Nov 2015, 19:22 • ny51sens   29 Nov 2015, 19:22

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  {QUESTION} Battery Sensor example
  arduino nano battery monitor voltage divider • 29 Nov 2015, 14:05 • drock1985   29 Nov 2015, 19:11

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  29 Nov 2015, 19:11

  @drock1985 Maybe some hints here.
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  How can i connect a arduino with sensors, but without the rf receiver, but still see the sensors as MySensors????
  28 Nov 2015, 11:55 • MarkV   28 Nov 2015, 11:55

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  Quadrocopter with NRF24L01? Yes :)
  25 Nov 2015, 13:12 • Frank Herrmann   25 Nov 2015, 15:07

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  25 Nov 2015, 15:07

  Automatically controlled drones as part of the security system, anyone?
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  nRF24L01 Large network help needed
  20 Nov 2015, 13:53 • Samuel235   22 Nov 2015, 10:05

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  22 Nov 2015, 10:05

  Finally found the repo for what i think is the raspberry pi MQTT Gateway... Link, I'm assuming the file i need to be looking at is the MyGatewayTransportMQTTClient.cpp. However, there is no MakeFile there, am i being stupid or blind, how would i compile this gateway file to then be able to run it?
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  Wiring MQ-2 Gas Sensor
  30 Oct 2015, 11:37 • gmccarthy   13 Nov 2015, 14:06

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  13 Nov 2015, 14:06

  @epierre said: @alexsh1 said: Depends on your sensor. you do not have to add anything. yes and no, you don't have a datasheet for the board... 10K is 10K so you know it Actually, I have the datasheet for my board and this is adjustable resistor Anyway, I got mine working without any additional 10k resistors. I hope it helps.
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  Sensebender with LED pulse count from openenergymonitor.org
  sensebender led pulse count • 3 Nov 2015, 02:39 • alexsh1   10 Nov 2015, 11:21

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  10 Nov 2015, 11:21

  @Sparkman You are right. The pin names on the sensebender, corresponds to the pin names on the arduinos, so the interrupt on D3 is the same as on the arduino.
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  Sensebender and attachInterrupt
  9 Nov 2015, 00:54 • alexsh1   10 Nov 2015, 04:41

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  10 Nov 2015, 04:41

  So it is the same as Nano (2 and 3 only) - many thanks!!!
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  wireless serial communication
  9 Nov 2015, 02:49 • niccodemi   10 Nov 2015, 00:08

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  10 Nov 2015, 00:08

  @siklosi thanks, so that means this module would be only good for serial monitor? Is it possible to do serial monitoring with mysbootloader / myscontroller? I am currently using serial gw with vera - if I am to use myscontroller do I have to disconnect it from vera and connect it with computer running myscontroller?
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  Minimal design thoughts
  18 Oct 2014, 22:54 • tbowmo   9 Nov 2015, 08:45

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  9 Nov 2015, 08:45

  @Magnus-Pernemark It's all ceramics.. (also the 4.7uF for radio)
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  Use ESP8266 as serial gateway?
  8 Nov 2015, 19:28 • Burre   8 Nov 2015, 19:28

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  Serial Gateway on Arduino Nano (clone)
  8 Nov 2015, 14:35 • alexsh1   8 Nov 2015, 14:35

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  Having 2 gateways
  7 Nov 2015, 10:28 • ferpando   7 Nov 2015, 15:10

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  7 Nov 2015, 15:10

  @tbowmo said: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1965/nodered-injected-between-domoticz-and-mysensors Thank you for the answer. I'll take a look at that.
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  Strange problem with relay board
  29 Oct 2015, 23:30 • xefil   7 Nov 2015, 10:16

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  7 Nov 2015, 10:16

  I had the same problem a few months ago. The problem solved powering the arduino from a different power supply. You can read a bout it here Node freezing up No more problems since
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  Strange behaviour on RGB Led and Arduino Pro Mini 3.3V
  3 Nov 2015, 21:18 • xefil   5 Nov 2015, 16:27

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  5 Nov 2015, 16:27

  Thanks a lot @AWI for the suggestions and explaination, even if it's a little difficult for me to understand. I have to take some other for other LED strips. So I'll take IRLZ34N or BUZ71 instead my BUZ91A so they didn't get so much hot. Simon
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  1W Temperature Sensor 18s20 shows old values
  temperature • 2 Nov 2015, 07:26 • Dirk_H   3 Nov 2015, 07:32

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  3 Nov 2015, 07:32

  Ok, finally I found the Problem. I changed the prescaler value of Timer0 becuase I needed a higher PWM Frequenciy. Unfortuneatly this also affects the millis() function that is used in gw.wait. It turns out taht with the changed TImer 0 Prescaler 1ms was not 1ms anymore but less. So the gw.wait(750) where only 750ms/64 which is not enough for DS18S20 conversion to take place.
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  Having issues with 2AAA battery project and AVRDUDE
  22 Oct 2015, 05:46 • den2k   30 Oct 2015, 04:33

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  30 Oct 2015, 04:33

  @LastSamurai said: Perhaps this helps. As far as I know and have read 1Mhz doesn't really change that much because you sleep most of the time anyways. Try to disable the BOD, that uses most of the power. I don't think the idea behind changing the clock to 1Mhz is to save energy, but to allow the mcu to run at lower voltages (allowing it to keep running when the batteries are already considered dead for other uses). The Atmega328 can run down to 1.8V but only if your clock speed is 4Mhz or lower. We change it to 1Mhz because its easier to do that in software, rather than solder a new crystal.
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  Flash Arduino pro mini and change fuses
  19 Oct 2015, 19:45 • LastSamurai   23 Oct 2015, 15:49

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  23 Oct 2015, 15:49

  @m26872 said: I've low power hacked APM and bare bone 328p. As I think I've linked from here, at 1MHz (internal) 9600 baud was the maximum and each baud rate required their own bootloader version. To do it easy I just used precompiled Optiboot for this. Thanks you, thats a very interesting read! I will try some of that myself.
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  How does RF work?? Electro-sensible problems
  21 Oct 2015, 21:42 • OPatrick   21 Oct 2015, 23:50

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  21 Oct 2015, 23:50

  Depending on your sensor setup they should be "sleeping" to conserve battery (if using battery). The sensors will only send messages when ordered to do so in code. The controller might send out ack signals depending on your setup but it is mostly in receive mode. On a side note if you are worried about RF interference it goes down to what frequency and what channel you are on as well as your settings for power. Also any other emitting device in your house could interfere. If you are worried about health issues you shouldn't be. You get orders of magnitude more EMF radiation from the sun than you could get from these devices.
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  Relays and Touch-Panel
  19 Oct 2015, 06:37 • Delranon   19 Oct 2015, 06:37

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  How to (correctly) use the pro mini with batteries
  16 Oct 2015, 14:23 • LastSamurai   18 Oct 2015, 21:41

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  18 Oct 2015, 21:41

  If you are going to let the node go into sleep between sensor readings (f.ex. Wakeup every 5 minutes or so) you don't need the troubles of switching to 1Mhz. When you sleep the atmega, you also turn off the oscillator for the MCU. So it doesn't use any power. In fact one could argue that it will result in a longer wake time if you are running at 1Mhz instead of 8Mhz, due to the slower execution speed. And so it could end up using the same amount of power, as when running on 8mhz. This is however untested/unverified, and just a theory that I have..
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  Speech recognition
  13 Oct 2015, 09:51 • hek   16 Oct 2015, 06:44

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  16 Oct 2015, 06:44

  @mvader - If you can get some cheap Android phones/tablets, you can use the VoxWav app on it and mount this devices in each room. The VoxWav app act as a wireless microphone and remote for VoxCommando http://voxcommando.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=VoxWav here is a nice demo video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=0RCZ7aGGaro I use this app also on a android smartwatch to control things which you can see here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMPstHDvnM8 I hope this give you an idea
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  Simulate pushbutton for 24vac relays
  12 Oct 2015, 20:13 • gizzmo   13 Oct 2015, 10:14

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  13 Oct 2015, 10:14

  I'm thinking about a similar project. One thing I'm struggling with is how to detect the current relay status. You will not notice when another push button is used, so your MySensors device in your controller will only switch between on and off without any meaning to the physical relay on/off. Maybe it is possible to use a mosfet with the 24v relay connected as gate to sense a switch-event triggered by any push button to update the status of your light. Just an idea at the moment, maybe someone with more knowledge on electronics can form a curcuit out of that.
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  Low power display
  10 Oct 2015, 21:50 • jesper   13 Oct 2015, 04:31

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  13 Oct 2015, 04:31

  Microview? https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12923
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  This topic is deleted!
  12 Oct 2015, 20:59 • NeverDie   12 Oct 2015, 20:59

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  What kind of relay for in-wall application?
  12 Oct 2015, 08:02 • Cliff Karlsson   12 Oct 2015, 18:17

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  12 Oct 2015, 18:17

  Ok, the heat issue was new to me regarding the ssr's. I already have one SSR-40DA and its quite big as it is without a heatsink. I think I wil go with the standar relays instead. But What kind of fuses should I get to make it as sefe as possible. A Thermal fuse Do I need some more fuse? if so a ebay/aliexpress link would be great.
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  Sensor board with booster and supervisor
  18 May 2015, 10:04 • scalz   11 Oct 2015, 21:45

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  11 Oct 2015, 21:45

  @Cliff-Karlsson : maybe it would need to make a childboard and connect it to MYSXconnector 1.5 but sorry, I am not planning to make a HLK childboard for the moment.
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  MCP9700 Readings flucuate
  8 Oct 2015, 13:14 • den2k   11 Oct 2015, 02:40

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  11 Oct 2015, 02:40

  Problem solved. For those interested. The issue was the 3.3V Step up board. When the radio turns on there is a large power draw which causes the voltage on the 3.3V rail to drop. This caused the temperature reading fluctuations I was seeing. I added a large cap between the Vout / GND of the step up. Problem solved.
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  How can i detect 230V (pump active)?
  1 Oct 2015, 07:46 • ahhk   10 Oct 2015, 09:43

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  10 Oct 2015, 09:43

  Hi, or use a small bulb instead neon...should also work. But a cap in parallel is always a good idea for this.
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  Looking For Good Plug Connectors
  9 Oct 2015, 19:03 • NotYetRated   9 Oct 2015, 20:29

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  9 Oct 2015, 20:29

  @NotYetRated Here's a thread with some great options: http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1789/external-connector-options. Cheers Al
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  Microduino
  8 Oct 2015, 10:58 • Steve Caster   8 Oct 2015, 17:07

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  8 Oct 2015, 17:07

  yeah those seem pretty pricey.. pro mini is pretty small.. so are the sensebender boards.. for much cheaper
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  Temperature Sensors Inside Enclosures
  8 Oct 2015, 02:21 • NotYetRated   8 Oct 2015, 04:14

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  8 Oct 2015, 04:14

  @Dwalt said: I have not had problems with enclosures per se, but I have seen temperature differentials due to locations exposed to direct sunlight and up against thermal masses such as a external walls or internal walls with enclosed heating ducts or hot water piping. I have four sensebenders in vented enclosures mounted on interior walls and have no problem with their accuracy. They are also loosely mounted inside their enclosures which may help them avoiding picking up heat from the walls. Overall, they seem much more consistent and accurate than the several DHT or Dallas sensors I have in my system. Thanks for the reply, perhaps my issue stems from my enclosures being mostly sealed. No venting what so ever. I did a quick test of a few of my sensors, opening the boxes and letting them sit in open air and the differentials came down substantially. Will look in to adding some venting!
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  Eagle files for a MeanPenguin MySensors PCB
  22 Sept 2014, 08:18 • meanpenugin   7 Oct 2015, 15:46

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  7 Oct 2015, 15:46

  Finally began tinkering with the boards I ordered a couple of months ago. Built 2, using regulated 5V. Both tell me they cannot init radio. I have yet to pull out the multimeter and begin diagnosing, but wanted to post up and see if anyone else has experienced this? I have not actually come across this error before with MySensors. I did solder pin 1 and 2 on the two pads, attached a 5v to 3.3 volt step down, cap in the slot direct above the radio. Blanking on what could be wrong, other than something witht he baords I received.
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  PCB for Mini Pro, RFM69 and HLK-PM01 / Battery
  7 Oct 2015, 09:13 • Cliff Karlsson   7 Oct 2015, 09:13

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  Low Power Temperature Sensor
  14 Sept 2015, 10:30 • diggs   7 Oct 2015, 02:11

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  7 Oct 2015, 02:11

  Check the bmp180. Its a presure sensor, but it includes a fairly accurate temperature sensor and is rated down to 1.8v.
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  Identifying Pro Mini 5v and 3.3v, Is this correct/safe ?
  5 Oct 2015, 17:20 • Cliff Karlsson   5 Oct 2015, 18:17

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  5 Oct 2015, 18:17

  On my 5V minis, the 16mhz crystal is much larger (long silver oval component stamped 16.00) than on 3.3v. At least on mine.
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  Remote Node Reset
  20 Sept 2015, 01:12 • diggs   1 Oct 2015, 09:23

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  1 Oct 2015, 09:23

  @awi @Sparkman Thanks guys, will implement these and see how it goes
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  Presence detection using BLEmini
  bluetooth presence • 30 Sept 2015, 19:25 • A Former User   30 Sept 2015, 19:25

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  esp8266 problem
  29 Sept 2015, 20:38 • zogg44   30 Sept 2015, 16:56

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  30 Sept 2015, 16:56

  Okay, it appears to be working now as advertised with only power from the USB connector, but I believe that the board has an intermittent connection on it. I can't see any solder joints that look suspect, so most likely it's one of the esp8266 pins.I will just have to handle it delicately. Thanks for the help.
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  Find an error.
  22 Sept 2015, 18:22 • jesper   29 Sept 2015, 12:34

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  29 Sept 2015, 12:34

  @scalz: good tip! I prefer to triple check before committing to a pcbmaker.
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  Hijack a motion detector - hardware?
  20 Sept 2015, 14:58 • sundberg84   28 Sept 2015, 16:24

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  28 Sept 2015, 16:24

  @johnr Cool! I will try and get back here with my findings Tnx!
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  Errors in PCB-design?
  23 Sept 2015, 21:26 • ahhk   27 Sept 2015, 20:59

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  27 Sept 2015, 20:59

  hi Andreas, if you change your dimension in EAGLE then OSHPark and others will cut the PCB in that form. But you can also just define a "keep out" area with a polygon. The capacitor seems OK to me. All 100nF I have are 2.54mm pitch. My 10uF capacitor is 5mm diameter (8mm high), the 100uF is 7mm diameter (12mm high). I am not familiar with 3mm duo-leds. I live in Wilrijk, south of Antwerpen (Belgium), but I spent some time on other continents and even three months in Munchen as a student working in the research facilities of Siemens in Neu Perlach. I'm assuming you live in Germany. Gert
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  How to hookup a LE33
  25 Sept 2015, 14:34 • TheoL   27 Sept 2015, 12:09

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  27 Sept 2015, 12:09

  @Zeph and @rvendrame thanx for claryfing things. I'll just have to build up a test circuit on a breadboard. I'll start with adding the 2.2 uf as specified in the datasheet and keep the radio wires short and will see from there. The specs of the LE33 are very promising, so I'm hoping to get this to work. At the moment I've setup a lot of sensors on breadboards. The 4.7 uf cap is 20cm away from the radio, but no problems so far.
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  Raspberry Pi NRF24L01+ + MQTT + MQTT Gateway
  27 Sept 2015, 10:22 • siod   27 Sept 2015, 10:22

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  In-wall connector for blinds
  24 Sept 2015, 13:01 • Steve Caster   25 Sept 2015, 04:40

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  25 Sept 2015, 04:40

  @Steve-Caster read this and in fact the whole article..
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  Auto beamerscreen with Arduno
  20 Sept 2015, 16:54 • A Former User   21 Sept 2015, 16:22

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  21 Sept 2015, 16:22

  Hi Dwalt en Mikke, Thank you for your input/information. Based on your input I think that I can make a quick start!!! Best regards, hans
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  Presence detection
  10 Sept 2015, 02:33 • pbcstudios   20 Sept 2015, 19:55

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  20 Sept 2015, 19:55

  I think what ericvdb said with the IR sensors is probably close to the best solution. If you figure out a way to count people at each doorway you could do a sudo presence detection. So, if you count people as they enter, and at each threshold remove a person from the room they are leaving and add to the one they are going to you should have something that is rather accurate. This could have issues if you carry someone from one room to another, but you could add pir to rooms to correct exceptions. Something along the lines of, you carry someone into the living room, it counts one person there, you go to kitchen, it reduces to 0 and turns off lights, but you have an exception that if there is motion and zero people it changes to one person in the room. Would just have to be sure your hvac does not set of the pir.
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  Arduino Nano power related issue
  19 Sept 2015, 16:56 • punter9   19 Sept 2015, 18:36

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  19 Sept 2015, 18:36

  @punter9 Given it's a 5 volt module, powering it with 9V is not a good idea. The specs on the Songle relay indicate that it draws about 90mA. The official Nano has a 500mA 5V regulator so if you don't have too much else connected, that should be fine. If you are using a Nano clone, then take a look at the specs for the regulator it uses. Cheers Al
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  soil moisture sensor sketch
  19 Sept 2015, 00:04 • diggs   19 Sept 2015, 12:46

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  19 Sept 2015, 12:46

  @BartE Thanks for that. My issue ended up being with the signal lead from the sensor to the arduino. A bad connector. Your advice on the pull-up resistor was very useful. Thanks
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  Turning off connected ArduCAM
  14 Sept 2015, 21:14 • Oitzu   16 Sept 2015, 16:00

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  16 Sept 2015, 16:00

  @Anticimex said: @Oitzu it should work just fine. Thanks. Ordered this.
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  what are the additional components on a relay board for?
  14 Sept 2015, 14:03 • Anduril   15 Sept 2015, 05:49

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  15 Sept 2015, 05:49

  thanks for the clarification. I'm not going to use the regulator at all, as I'm powering the whole setup with a HLK-PM01 (when it finally arrives).
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  Controlling existing relays
  26 Apr 2015, 10:15 • twosh   7 Sept 2015, 10:54

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  7 Sept 2015, 10:54

  @twosh any update on your project? I have exact the same setup, would love to see your code
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  Sensor board w/ liPo charger and fuel gauge +BMP180 +HTU21
  24 Feb 2015, 07:46 • ceech   4 Sept 2015, 06:03

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  4 Sept 2015, 06:03

  @MikeF Well not limiting, but reducing. Connect one or two ordinary diodes in series with the input, and you will reduce the voltage for 0.7V for every diode.
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  "Smart" LCD module? 2.4" HMI Intelligent Smart USART Serial TFT LCD Module Display w/ Touch Panel
  31 Aug 2015, 13:09 • Cliff Karlsson   3 Sept 2015, 13:09

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  3 Sept 2015, 13:09

  @Cliff-Karlsson Hi Cliff, I ordered one a few days ago and as far as I understand, the only other thing you need is an sd card to transfer the design from the editor/pc to the display. You can connect with an ftdi adapter, but it's much faster using the sd card. The cable to connect it to an arduino is included. Cheers Al
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  Good pressure transducer (5-60PSI or so) for Sensebender Micro?
  3 Sept 2015, 12:21 • Lucas Figg   3 Sept 2015, 12:21

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  Pro Mini is giving a frequent time out on DTH11 read out
  29 Aug 2015, 20:48 • TheoL   1 Sept 2015, 18:06

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  1 Sept 2015, 18:06

  The library which @tomkxy posted works great for 8mhz processors. I have let it run for more than 24 hours without receiving a single timeout or checksum failure.
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  good step up/down regulator for battery-powered sensors (3.3v)?
  30 Aug 2015, 20:29 • ahhk   1 Sept 2015, 09:04

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  1 Sept 2015, 09:04

  @ahhk said: Hi, i searched a lot and read a lot about step-up and step-down converters in the last days, but i didnt find a really "good one" - and already soldered on pcb. Soldering is in general not a problem for me, except smd (i hate smd soldering). Has anyone a hint for a good booster (2xAA => 3.3V) or a step-down-regulator (3xAA => 3.3V) ? Greetings Andreas How about this? http://www.ti.com/product/TPS82740B/description&lpos=Middle_Container&lid=Alternative_Devices
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  Which is better: RFM69 or NRF24L01+?
  31 Jul 2015, 02:33 • NeverDie   30 Aug 2015, 13:36

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  30 Aug 2015, 13:36

  Hi guyz, i just wanted to ask if I would need to make any modification to the code if i were to switch my current Ethernet gateway and my sensors from NRF24 to RFM69
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  What's the difference between NRF24L01+ and NRF24L01
  28 Aug 2015, 19:27 • TheoL   28 Aug 2015, 20:46

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  28 Aug 2015, 20:46

  Use the + version on the gateway
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  Debugging temp sensor
  27 Aug 2015, 04:29 • zuru   27 Aug 2015, 10:15

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  27 Aug 2015, 10:15

  I use http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/838/windows-gui-controller-for-mysensors for logging the communication between the controller and the nodes.
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  Getting numbers from Vera to a sensor
  30 Apr 2014, 02:45 • BulldogLowell   23 Aug 2015, 17:56

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  23 Aug 2015, 17:56

  is there a way to display these things (temp sensor readings) on to a web page?
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  Pull up resistor question
  22 Aug 2015, 02:18 • TD22057   22 Aug 2015, 02:18

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  What batteries is best to use for a sensor that sleeps most of the time?
  19 Aug 2015, 07:44 • Cliff Karlsson   19 Aug 2015, 20:08

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  19 Aug 2015, 20:08

  i use 2cell 7.4 volt recycled laptop battery packs for my projects thay have a natural discharge of 5% a month but do some reading and research on how to handle and charge them...and you should be fine..plus recycleing lappy batterys is good for the enviroment..and you also learn about the new breed of batterys and cells
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  UNO R3 + W5100 Ethernet shield - power/bootup problem
  18 Aug 2015, 17:02 • otto001   18 Aug 2015, 17:02

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  Future network topology (for discussion)
  gateway network • 26 Jan 2015, 20:25 • axillent   17 Aug 2015, 11:37

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  17 Aug 2015, 11:37

  Network topology is the bargain of the assorted rudiments (links, nodes) of a computer network. Fundamentally, it is the topological arrangement of a complex & may represent actually or reasonably. link text
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  multiple distance sensor ?
  2 May 2015, 14:54 • fred97   17 Aug 2015, 05:00

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  17 Aug 2015, 05:00

  @DNKROZ said: Hi. I recommend you to check the relay example, the sketch includes support for multiple relays and you'll understand what do do in that scenario, but answering you initial question, no, I'm afraid you can't do gw.present(CHILD_ID, S_DISTANCE1, S_DISTANCE2, XXXX); but you can do gw.present(CHILD_ID1, S_DISTANCE); and gw.present(CHILD_ID2, S_DISTANCE); after that one... and... so on, you'll see better reading the relay sketch. Interesting, where is this Relay sketch? Regards
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  Favorite Pro Mini for battery applications?
  14 Aug 2015, 13:02 • NeverDie   16 Aug 2015, 12:54

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  16 Aug 2015, 12:54

  @rvendrame said: Even being the RFM69x demanding for more power? I guess it makes the diference for battery operated nodes. Jeenodes says "The conclusion here is: for these types of uses, with occasional brief wireless sensor data transmissions, the power consumption of the wireless module is not the main issue. It’s far more important to keep the idle (i.e. sleep mode) of the entire circuit under control." http://jeelabs.org/tag/lowpower/ So, taking that literally, hopefully the RFM69HW high Tx current consumption won't be an issue.
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  Cheapest way to build wireless buttons?
  12 Aug 2015, 20:09 • Cliff Karlsson   16 Aug 2015, 10:39

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  16 Aug 2015, 10:39

  Ok I think I will try the original idea with the nrf24l01 and arduino pro mini. But I am still waiting for my pro minis to arrive and only have a old one with a ATmega168. I read something about disabling the debug in mysensors.h. Will I still be able to fit an button sketch with wireless using the smaller ATmega168?
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  **Unnamed Project** USB Hub stick
  14 Aug 2015, 01:16 • brolly759   14 Aug 2015, 23:36

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  14 Aug 2015, 23:36

  @BulldogLowell Hitler Dosn't Understand Irony – 05:04— Hecubus912
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  Talk to 20k sensors?
  12 Aug 2015, 07:47 • Hemliga Arne   13 Aug 2015, 09:11

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  13 Aug 2015, 09:11

  I'll try to handle crosstalk with software, it shouldn't matter if the data dumps arrive at one or the other GW. If it will pose a problem, wifi space getting too crowded or something, then it's possible to separate the gateways more so they dont interfere.
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  Question about NRF24L01+ and signal issues
  nrf24l01 • 30 Jan 2015, 13:02 • xefil   12 Aug 2015, 20:34

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  12 Aug 2015, 20:34

  @xefil said: Thanks @hek and @kalle Sorry, but I'm not good to understand the debug of the scanners. In the RF24/examples/scanner/ the range is between 0000->->->7777 Those are the high order nibble of the channel byte. The low order nibble is just below it. The 125 channel numbers are printed "sideways" in hex. I would expect a list of channels between 1 and 13. You're thinking of wi-fi. This isn't wi-fi. In the second scanner (wiFi scanner found on arduino forum) It's more accurate. It seems noisy between channel 3 and 9. So, the questions are: What does default channel 76 mean? 2476Mhz? yes Would mean above channel 13, on channel 14. In this case these channels are free, based on the results. I've seen I can use: #define RF24_CHANNEL 76 //RF channel for the sensor net, 0-127 How to interpret the scanners result? Most of all the "RF24/examples/scanner/" which has an output I cannot identify in a channel. The bigger the number below the channel, the more active it is. I would like to understand the result and so choose the right channel, not only trying without knowing what I'm doing Thanks a lot for the support! Simon
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  Classic Ethernetshield
  11 Aug 2015, 17:44 • fabian   12 Aug 2015, 06:33

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  12 Aug 2015, 06:33

  Yes, just stick it on your Arduino and your good to go. I did have to change the pin configuration with an Arduino Mega2560 and the ethernet shield. I've placed a comment with my pin config in that tutorial.
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  Hardware suppliers in the UK
  hardware uk • 11 Aug 2015, 10:19 • Burtonian   11 Aug 2015, 10:41

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  11 Aug 2015, 10:41

  if you want to support the project, then use the links in the store or buy the sensebender from itead
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  Ultrasonic wind sensor
  30 Jul 2015, 16:50 • Yveaux   10 Aug 2015, 20:15

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  10 Aug 2015, 20:15

  It looks like it's just an ultrasonic transducer. With multiple ultrasonic transducers one could create a wind speed and direction sensor. (If you measure N/S wind speed and E/W wind speed you can get total wind speed and direction). The typical cheap distance measuring modules use very cheap 40KHz transducers; these operate at 200 KHz. Wind speed can be measured by timing a pulse between two transducers. The pulse will arrive slightly sooner if the wind is blowing towards the receiver, slightly later if it's blowing the other way, but the differences are small so you have to compensate for other factors like temperature, perhaps air pressure and humidity. With 4 transducers at over $200 even before all your analog circuitry to generate the high voltage drive and sensitive receiver, this is not going to be super cheap!
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  AliExpress Arduino Nano NOT Vera Compatible
  9 Aug 2015, 12:57 • Atomfire   9 Aug 2015, 13:04

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  9 Aug 2015, 13:04

  You can still use it without problems for sensors.
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  How to control OPENHAB using internet?
  23 Jul 2015, 11:32 • jemish   7 Aug 2015, 13:06

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  7 Aug 2015, 13:06

  if I logout the my.openhab.org account and stop openhab on raspberry pi then also open the UI application. what is the reason behind that?
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  Battery life of sensors.
  5 Aug 2015, 14:54 • Sweebee   6 Aug 2015, 14:21

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  6 Aug 2015, 14:21

  @5546dug Brown out detection http://www.scienceprog.com/microcontroller-brown-out-detection/
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  Is the Nano a good PS for nRF24L01+?
  6 Aug 2015, 01:44 • Zeph   6 Aug 2015, 01:58

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  6 Aug 2015, 01:58

  Hm, I just found a reference regarding the CH340 and 3.3v. From http://www.minikits.com.au/nano-v3.0b The Arduino Nano can be powered via the Mini-B USB connection, 6-20V unregulated external power supply (pin 30), or 5V regulated external power supply (pin 27). The power source is automatically selected to the highest voltage source. The CH340G chip on the Nano is only powered if the board is being powered over USB. As a result, when running on external (non-USB) power, the 3.3V output (which is supplied by the CH340 chip) is not available and the RX and TX LEDs will flicker if digital pins 0 or 1 are high. My question about using the 3.3v supply from the Nano for the nRF came from two use cases: Running with a 5v USB power supply sounds OK. But I was also thinking of running from a 12V supply in a case where 12V is used for relays and lights anyway. I was thinking to use the onboard 5V regulator for the Nano's uC, and the 3.3v supply for the radio. The quote sounds like the latter would not work - unless perhaps I bridged the 5V from the uC regulator to the USB 5v pin to activate the CH340 ? (Some more power, perhaps interference if I wanted to use the uC RX pin). Any knowledge or experience to share? One aside: Sometimes a regulator is spec'd up to 12v and sometimes a 12v supply is a little high. My thought was to insert a diode in line to drop a volt or so; this should give more margin, and also at least slightly reduce how much of the voltage/power has to be dropped & dissipated inside the linear regulator. As a side effect, it might help with accidental reversal of voltage. This is also my answer to someone who wanted to run an unregulated ardu pro mini off 4xAA alkaline.
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  Searching for N-Channel MOSFET
  4 Aug 2015, 10:22 • Oitzu   5 Aug 2015, 16:53

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  5 Aug 2015, 16:53

  @epierre yeah the FQP30N06L would do the job, too. There's not much options in this sector, the irlz44n is overpowered for the application, too. But will do it. For very small applications i ordered a bunch of 2N7000. They do 60V 0,2A.
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  Help needed
  5 Aug 2015, 00:07 • MarkV   5 Aug 2015, 12:25

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  5 Aug 2015, 12:25

  SUPER!!!!!!!! It works Thats for my first Serial gateway, now i'm going to have a look if i can convert it to the ethernet version. An other question: Is it also possible to make a gateway wich can controle multiple receivers?? For example, the RF24L01 with a 434Mhz receiver etc??
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  Long range radios not compatible?
  nrf24l01+ radio pinout • 30 Jul 2015, 21:33 • ivanxx   31 Jul 2015, 10:59

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  31 Jul 2015, 10:59

  Thanks for the tip!. It looks like a USB powered Arduino Nano cannot handle the long range radios power requirements. I powered the radio module independently and I can send commands succesfully again! The range has not improved, though, but that's another matter... Thanks !
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  Wind sensors
  29 Jul 2015, 19:15 • otto001   31 Jul 2015, 07:10

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  31 Jul 2015, 07:10

  @NeverDie said: That seems like a great prices on the wind sensor. Unfortunately, it looks as though Malin won't ship to the USA. You can always find somebody who can buy and send it for you I have this privilege that my friend goes to UK very often so he brought me some pcs from Maplin treb0r
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  Sensor Board, water meter, pressure, relay and analog in
  29 Jul 2015, 15:40 • lafleur   29 Jul 2015, 15:40

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  Combo entry scene trigger?
  22 Jul 2015, 17:35 • JoeStrout   28 Jul 2015, 05:27

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  28 Jul 2015, 05:27

  Here is a basic untested code that might do what you're wanting. I combined a my sensors button sketch with the following. http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-door-lock-with-password/ I might build one up at some point, but currently I haven't tested it. #include <MySensor.h> #include <SPI.h> #include <Password.h> //http://playground.arduino.cc/uploads/Code/Password.zip //tells to use password library #include <Keypad.h> //http://www.arduino.cc/playground/uploads/Code/Keypad.zip //tells to use keypad library #define CHILD_ID 3 Password password = Password( "0000" ); //password to unlock, can be changed const byte ROWS = 4; // Four rows const byte COLS = 4; // columns // Define the Keymap char keys[ROWS][COLS] = { {'1','2','3'}, {'4','5','6'}, {'7','8','9'}, {'*','0','#'} }; // Connect keypad ROW0, ROW1, ROW2 and ROW3 to these Arduino pins. byte rowPins[ROWS] = { 9, 8, 7, 6 };// Connect keypad COL0, COL1 and COL2 to these Arduino pins. byte colPins[COLS] = { 5, 4, 3 }; MySensor gw; int oldValue=-1; // Change to V_LIGHT if you use S_LIGHT in presentation below MyMessage msg(CHILD_ID,V_TRIPPED); // Create the Keypad Keypad keypad = Keypad( makeKeymap(keys), rowPins, colPins, ROWS, COLS ); void setup() { gw.begin(); delay(200); pinMode(11, OUTPUT); //green light pinMode(12, OUTPUT); //red light keypad.addEventListener(keypadEvent); //add an event listener for this keypad // Register binary input sensor to gw (they will be created as child devices) // You can use S_DOOR, S_MOTION or S_LIGHT here depending on your usage. // If S_LIGHT is used, remember to update variable type you send in. See "msg" above. gw.present(CHILD_ID, S_DOOR); } void loop(){ keypad.getKey(); } //take care of some special events void keypadEvent(KeypadEvent eKey){ switch (keypad.getState()){ case PRESSED: Serial.print("Enter:"); Serial.println(eKey); delay(10); Serial.write(254); switch (eKey){ case '*': checkPassword(); delay(1); break; case '#': password.reset(); delay(1); break; default: password.append(eKey); delay(1); } } } void checkPassword(){ if (password.evaluate()){ //if password is right open Serial.println("Accepted"); Serial.write(254);delay(10); //Add code to run if it works gw.send(msg.set(1)); digitalWrite(11, HIGH);//turn on delay(5000); //wait 5 seconds digitalWrite(11, LOW);// turn off delay(5000); gw.send(msg.set(0)); }else{ Serial.println("Denied"); //if passwords wrong keep locked Serial.write(254);delay(10); //add code to run if it did not work gw.send(msg.set(0)); digitalWrite(12, HIGH); //turn on delay(5000); //wait 5 seconds digitalWrite(12, LOW);//turn off } }```
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  SAM architecture (DUE, Teensy 3)
  arm sam due tee • 22 Oct 2014, 23:36 • soward   24 Jul 2015, 20:18

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  24 Jul 2015, 20:18

  @Frank-Herrmann I'm working on a GW device using atsam D2, which is the same they use in arduino zero. Still in the design phase, but think we are getting close to ordering the first prototype pcb's Design thread is here http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1137/gateway-device
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  Bought nRF24L01+ and nRF905 IC's instead of modules on accident
  23 Jul 2015, 21:14 • wilson   24 Jul 2015, 13:10

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  24 Jul 2015, 13:10

  Honestly, on closer inspection, there is no way I will be able to solder it to a board. I'm just gonna buy the modules.
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  Anyone powering a mysensor with solar plus supercapacitor?
  22 Jul 2015, 16:32 • NeverDie   22 Jul 2015, 18:23

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  22 Jul 2015, 18:23

  A good article regarding self discharge: http://www.robotroom.com/Capacitor-Self-Discharge-4.html
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  nRF24L01 + ESP8266 Shield for Arduino Uno & Mega 2560
  21 Jul 2015, 19:26 • hitosnap   22 Jul 2015, 14:15

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  22 Jul 2015, 14:15

  @hitosnap said: I believe it is Arduino compatible so it should works with custom coding. I also don't have idea about it. I just share with aim that any member can try this module without much soldering & their review can help other member. Source Code Schematic IoT Shield User Manual Documents link Fair enough. Thanks. Drilling down into the link you provided, it looks as though they are using a website called devicebit to graph the sensor data. It's nominally similar to xively. For the NRF24L01, it's using a library I haven't heard of before. Beyond the NRF24L01.h file, and the example code, I couldn't find any additional information giving details on how to use it. It does at least the minimum for the example code to work, so it's better than nothing. However, beyond that, it appears to be nearly a bare metal interface: i.e. be prepared to directly manipulate chip registers if you want to access greater functionality. Nothing wrong with that, if that's the level you prefer to work at.
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  Alternative to RFXcom (433 MHz) ?
  15 Jul 2015, 12:39 • mikee   22 Jul 2015, 09:03

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  22 Jul 2015, 09:03

  For the 2.4 GHz part, the nRF is a transceiver meaning it does both TX and RX. For the 433 mhz part, the PCB referenced in the first post has an "Aurel RTX-MID" which is a transceiver and thus both TX and RX so you can receive RF signals from 433mhz devices and also send commands via RF to 433mhz switches, doorbells etc. The software provides state switching signals to control the transceiver mode if one is used. Of course you do not need to use a transceiver, seperate TX and RX modules works just as well. You can use almost any a separate receiver and transmitter module like mentioned before.. For sending you can use a cheap Chinese transmitter (like the FS1000A XY-FST from the XY-M5-5V set) which can be nice as many people have these lying around.. The receiver from such a set is in most cases pretty poor because it receives a lot of noise. (Btw, these Chinese sets seem to perform a little bit better at higher voltages.)
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  XAmbi Kid mini Pro - Prototype
  29 Jun 2015, 15:03 • Frank Herrmann   20 Jul 2015, 09:13

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  20 Jul 2015, 09:13

  Here with installed HML5883 Magnetometer, but sadly doesn't work. Don't know why, but i decided to rework the design and replace all I2C sensors with a Solarcharger/Supercap-PowerSupply and add a voltage booster for 5V.
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  Battery backup?
  18 Jul 2015, 07:35 • Moshe Livne   18 Jul 2015, 11:35

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  18 Jul 2015, 11:35

  @Yveaux no no no.... I didn't explain myself well I guess. The mysensors node "press" buttons on a universal remote control, see http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1662/air-conditioning-hvac-control-work-in-progress The universal remote is powered from the arduino as well. As long as it is powered it remembers the settings for the aircon. once I power down the node the remote powers down as well and has to scan to find the right settings.
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  Pool water temp measuring hose adapter
  11 Jul 2015, 19:51 • HenkeP   14 Jul 2015, 18:21

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  14 Jul 2015, 18:21

  @gregl , why didn't I think about that! Great tip! I might buy the joint I linked to in my first post but then use a standard bolt and drill it open for a standard DS18B20 water proof temp sensor which I allready have laying around is really simple solution. Thanks! Will try to get back with pictures when this is done... Henrik
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  Anyone has ideas how to implement a boxing bag?
  10 Jul 2015, 21:49 • Moshe Livne   11 Jul 2015, 07:52

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  11 Jul 2015, 07:52
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  MQ2 Sensor w/AirQuality Sketch
  29 Jun 2015, 18:55 • gigaguy   10 Jul 2015, 21:02

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  10 Jul 2015, 21:02

  @Viper_Scull Domoticz supports V_VARs, just not as a viewable or modifiable value on the controller. It will store and return the V_VARs values for the sketch, nothing more.
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  Mysensors and 433 mhz
  5 Jul 2015, 09:17 • sonnyboy   10 Jul 2015, 14:52

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  10 Jul 2015, 14:52

  @Sparkman thanks man, i finally got 2 nrf24l01 just for testing and now i would like to test an example for a dht11 and 2 relay, can you help me? do i still need something else? i'm trying to follow TimO example but without luck. I have an arduino mega and uno too, an ethernet shield and 2 nrf, a few sensors. I would like to make a serial gateway or a ethernetgateway and to connect dht11, 2 relays and a sct-013-00. can anyone help me? any help would be kindly appreciated. thanks all.
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  Miniature stepup - will it work with a nano?
  15 Jun 2015, 02:34 • Moshe Livne   9 Jul 2015, 09:08

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  9 Jul 2015, 09:08

  @blacey oh i see. My pro mini has vin written on the raw pin so i mixed it up. Thanks!
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  Battery Step Up Converter
  8 Jul 2015, 21:22 • Qu3Uk   9 Jul 2015, 07:44

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  9 Jul 2015, 07:44

  @Moshe-Livne Sweet. thanks.
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  Energy efficiency of interrupted sleep
  6 Jul 2015, 07:08 • Moshe Livne   8 Jul 2015, 16:21

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  8 Jul 2015, 16:21

  @Moshe-Livne said: In what way is it better? The datasheet states that to wake an ATMega from sleep from a PIN0/1 interrupt it should be configured as LEVEL interrupt, not CHANGE (second parameter to gw.sleep() ) It is likely to work when configured for CHANGE, but under certain conditions the interrupt may not be detected correctly by the ATMega.
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  Custom gateway board design
  6 Jul 2015, 22:19 • brolly759   7 Jul 2015, 17:37

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  7 Jul 2015, 17:37

  Please send an email to info@mysensors.org with your ideas and questions..
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  Is powering a node from CR123 or CR123A a good idea?
  5 Jul 2015, 23:37 • Moshe Livne   7 Jul 2015, 07:05

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  7 Jul 2015, 07:05

  @Ivan-Z Thanks. I have seen this in another thread. Decided against it for several reasons. This sensor should be asleep 99.9999% of the time. According to the legends this battery should power my sensor for years.
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  Sensebender Micro as serial gateway
  6 Jul 2015, 07:27 • gloob   6 Jul 2015, 15:42

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  6 Jul 2015, 15:42

  Thanks. I tried it now and it is working without any problems.
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  Chip the $9 computer
  30 Jun 2015, 19:35 • stephenmhall   6 Jul 2015, 05:22

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  6 Jul 2015, 05:22

  I think the trick here is that they just announced a $40 4.3" monitor and you’ll have to spend additional cash for the VGA or HDMI adapters. http://ardevon.com/2015/07/chip-the-worlds-first-9-computer/
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  Debugging a sensor with external power supply
  3 Jul 2015, 21:59 • Moshe Livne   3 Jul 2015, 21:59

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  converting 12v to 5v
  23 Jun 2015, 23:38 • Moshe Livne   1 Jul 2015, 22:10

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  1 Jul 2015, 22:10

  @tbowmo nope, still no go. strangely, when i disconnect the arduino from the computer (so it is not powered), it creates a short after a few seconds and the bell starts ringing continuously.
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  Energy harvesting switches
  23 Jun 2015, 16:09 • stephenmhall   1 Jul 2015, 20:56

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  1 Jul 2015, 20:56

  @Moshe-Livne said: @Sparkman would have been nice if they could charge from motion, wouldn't it? That would be great
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  Measuring current
  27 Jun 2015, 07:49 • Fredrik Carlsson   30 Jun 2015, 20:05

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  30 Jun 2015, 20:05

  @AWI Yes i am. but there is mistake in the picture the R3 is connected between Pin 3 and VCC, not ground (pull up resistor). Then that leaves me hanging a bit because that is way more than I will be comfortable with in terms off battery changes. Any suggestion what to do?
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  iTead Studio iBoard MySensors Edition
  27 Feb 2015, 07:05 • Robin Laurén   20 Jun 2015, 14:48

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  20 Jun 2015, 14:48

  My unmodified iBoard is working for months now as a gateway without problems. Initially I had some problems with hanging connections. But these problems disappeared after replacing my 1$ power supply with a 3$ one. The iBoard needs a decent power supply.
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  Sensebender with coin battery?
  19 Jun 2015, 21:03 • Moshe Livne   20 Jun 2015, 10:55

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  20 Jun 2015, 10:55

  @Moshe-Livne there already is a 4u7 capacitor for the radio, on the sensebender. in theory, it could be used with cr2032 battery, but I doubt that it would last long..
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  Measuring low current
  8 Jun 2015, 06:53 • Moshe Livne   19 Jun 2015, 10:00

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  19 Jun 2015, 10:00

  @AWI totally understandable! I am a bit relived to hear that actually. I own a reasonable (I think) multimeter - not the cheapest from aliexpress... it is reasonably ok but everyone is so hushhush about the accuracy. I even ended up asking some multimeters companies what is the *&%&% accuracy and stop giving me all sorts of equations to solve!!! It reminds me of my other hobby, woodworking. You can do almost anything to a really good degree of finish with couple of hundreds $ of equipment BUT (and its a big capital BUT): You need to know what you are doing You need to carefully select this equipment and usually you gain the insight only after spending couple of K$ on useless hyped things. You need to have the confidence required it does take more time and can end up less accurate. Thanks for this... now I can use my multimeter with more confidence
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  Arduino 3.3v or 5v
  17 Jun 2015, 13:45 • mathias   17 Jun 2015, 14:01

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  17 Jun 2015, 14:01

  On of the sensor is the distance sensor that looks like Wall-e. I havent started to test with battery yet but what i read it doesnt sound like you can power a simple sensor for so long with batteries? //Mathias
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  Using the NRF for presence detection
  11 Jun 2015, 02:04 • Moshe Livne   16 Jun 2015, 00:40

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  16 Jun 2015, 00:40

  Just to re-iterate my original question - does any of the forum heroes knows if the same nrf chip can be used for rfid detection of commercial active tags and for mysensors?
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  Sensor PWB, with analog digital I/O, relays, MCP9800, Si7021
  14 Jun 2015, 18:50 • lafleur   14 Jun 2015, 23:31

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  14 Jun 2015, 23:31

  Yes, I'm aware of the issues, the Humidity sensor version is mounted inside a well ventilated irrigation box... One board for many sensor devices in my project... Some inside a sealed box, others in the open air... Thanks
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  Oil level sensor
  6 Jun 2015, 10:00 • shabba   12 Jun 2015, 16:19

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  12 Jun 2015, 16:19

  I've had great luck with capacitive sensing and water levels.. In my case I was using the Teensy 3 which has built-in support for cap sensing that seems more reliable than when using the arduino cap sense library. For the sensor, I got a sheet of copper foil with non-conductive adhesive on one side (digikey sells this). Using scissors I cut a 1" wide strip several inches long, with a couple small sections where I removed a piece 3/4 as wide as the strip (sorry.. hard to describe) The end result is sort of "F" shaped (where the horizontal bars are thick and the spaces between are thin). For shielding against outside interference, I put another rectagular piece over the whole thing, attached to a ground lead. Stick the whole thing to your oil tank, and you should see large changes in the cap sense value as soon as the liquid level crosses a gap. here's a web page with something similar http://soulysolar.mudventions.com/?p=681 hope this helps David
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  Arduino UNO: max current on Vin pin?
  10 Jun 2015, 19:58 • Jan Gatzke   10 Jun 2015, 20:42

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  10 Jun 2015, 20:42

  Ok, as it seems I did not look good enough. There is an diode (smd M7) between the input jack and the vin pin. This diode is rated 1A. So this will be the maximum current available to the whole arduino + shield. I will put a jack on my shield and feed the arduino from the shield and not vice versa.
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  Can't program arduino with NRF connected
  13 May 2015, 17:02 • Sweebee   10 Jun 2015, 20:25

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  10 Jun 2015, 20:25

  today i burned a second regulator on a 5V pro mini. I use a car 5V adapter now, but its quite large :P. Any1 experience with good 5V regulators that can handle 12V?
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  WaterMeter and GazMeter - Reed IRQ False positive
  29 May 2015, 09:43 • doblanch   9 Jun 2015, 11:10

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  9 Jun 2015, 11:10

  @doblanch said: if (state != laststate) { delay(30); if (state != laststate) { delay(30); if (state != laststate) why do you have these blocking delay()s? I would focus on non-blocking code for such a device... Are you using an interrupt? I think you need to post your entire sketch to get good comments
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  How does MySensors work?
  7 Jun 2015, 14:06 • Prateek Gupta   8 Jun 2015, 08:51

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  8 Jun 2015, 08:51

  See http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1194/tutorial-openhab-with-serial-gateway/23
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  arduino pro 3.3 + nrf24l01 smd onboard + On board 4K-Bit Flash memory
  19 May 2015, 10:41 • Mickey   6 Jun 2015, 22:40

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  6 Jun 2015, 22:40

  No I decide that price is to high. in this price I can buy 2 pro and 2 nrf smd version.
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  Power bus
  27 May 2015, 10:14 • otto001   6 Jun 2015, 18:40

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  6 Jun 2015, 18:40

  Thanks for the hints Yes, RS485 would be a very interesting option, but is not implemented yet - and I am modifying my house right now. I think I will add some pins to the power wires for future use...
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  RFID - presence and car
  5 Jun 2015, 19:17 • otto001   5 Jun 2015, 19:17

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  Better reception with nrf LPA?
  3 Jun 2015, 13:50 • Sweebee   3 Jun 2015, 14:59

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  3 Jun 2015, 14:59

  it also amplifies received signals, which works very well. I cover my whole flat (100m²)with this version for the gateway (and only the gateway, rest ist normal nrf24l01 modules) The non PA/LNA was not able to get into all corners of the flat. AFAIK PA stands for Power Amplifier (meant for TX) and LNA for Low Noise Amplifier ( meant for RX).
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  Nice PCB with ATMEGA328P with NRF24L01 & DHT11
  2 Jun 2015, 13:04 • hitosnap   2 Jun 2015, 13:04

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  Camera as a sensor
  11 May 2015, 06:57 • Moshe Livne   1 Jun 2015, 04:34

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  1 Jun 2015, 04:34

  @Mickey Thanks. will give it a try!
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  help newbie: MEGA2560 + Ethernet Shield = always fails
  4 Apr 2015, 10:31 • ruslan   30 May 2015, 17:53

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  30 May 2015, 17:53

  Hi ruslan, sorry for delay. I am not sure but I think I did not change anything in RF_Config.h but found out that the radio needs to be connected to those pins 50, 51, 52. Have a look at the mega pinout sheet. It tells you that 50=miso, 51=mosi, 52=sck. So I connected the radio to those pins and it worked. That configuration runs on a sensor without ethernet shield. I believe that it has nothing to do with the shield but more with that special mega pinout. Could you simply remove the shield, attach the radio and download a sensor sketch to make sure that the mega and the radio work together. After that step attach the shield and try again with a gateway sketch.
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  Arduino Pro Mini (Deek robot) with power consumption and led.
  28 May 2015, 19:24 • sundberg84   28 May 2015, 19:24

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  Battery life of a relay actuator
  24 May 2015, 06:06 • Moshe Livne   26 May 2015, 10:17

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  26 May 2015, 10:17

  @Sparkman ended up ordering http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Passive-Bistable-Latching-DPDT-8-Amp-Power-Relay-Module-5V-Version-RT424F05/2003476647.html as form factor is not really an issue where these relays will be but convenience is. I think it includes the diodes but not the transistor. Thanks!!!!
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  Arduino Options
  16 Apr 2014, 09:10 • wmylionel   23 May 2015, 20:36

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  23 May 2015, 20:36

  @gregl I know its been a year+ from your post, but I figured out a way around 'the waiting' ....I order stuff every few days from China that I might/probably will need for another upcoming project & that way have a series of things coming in over a couple of months. Sometimes they screw me up & deliver too fast, but I can live with that!!!!! Now I have a good inventory of 'cheap' items to draw from for projects and of course I continue to order.
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  MySensor lib doesn't work with an chip nrfl24l01/SE8R01
  22 May 2015, 11:22 • fc31   22 May 2015, 15:33

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  22 May 2015, 15:33

  @fc31 According to this site, se8r01 uses another onair format, and is NOT compatible with nrf24l01(+). So I don't think that you'll get any success including it in your existing network with nrf24 modules. If you used an se8r01 as gateway, together with sensors that uses the same transciever, you might have some luck.
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  Piezo Buzzer
  20 May 2015, 23:59 • n3ro   21 May 2015, 09:49

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  21 May 2015, 09:49

  I've only tried this module so far for prototyping. Worked as intended using the default code. Haven't made any measurements on it. But it ran fine in a 3,3V circuit. Certainly loud enough. Some current limiting would probably not be a bad idea. Edit: The module I have is of course passive. Not sure if that is what you want or not. Active vs Passive.
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  allow sensors to operate on voltage lower than 2.7v
  29 Apr 2015, 07:04 • Mickey   19 May 2015, 20:27

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  19 May 2015, 20:27

  @Mickey Any progress to share? Do you experience any issues with short battery life due to CR2032s high internal resistance, like reported here ?
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  MySensor Moteino Gateway board for Raspberry PI2
  17 May 2015, 20:42 • lafleur   17 May 2015, 20:42

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  nRF24 radio reliability
  17 May 2015, 09:04 • plinioseniore   17 May 2015, 15:06

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  17 May 2015, 15:06

  @tbowmo Sure, but be able to clone an IC means that they have a structure and manufacturing equipments, I guess they can found better way to get income. Dario.
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  Hall effect sensor wiring?
  13 May 2015, 02:20 • Moshe Livne   13 May 2015, 20:09

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  13 May 2015, 20:09

  @Sparkman it say 3144 415 so its the a3144 i think. found a you tube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZkX1-gJYjQ (i think the guy there misses the part that it gives 2.5v and goes up or down according to the polarity but its good enough for me...) will give it a try later and see how sensitive it is
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  Motion (PIR), actuator and Temp sensor
  13 May 2015, 07:20 • Hausner   13 May 2015, 18:27

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  13 May 2015, 18:27

  Ok, finally got it to work with this: // Example sketch showing how to control physical relays. // This example will remember relay state even after power failure. #include <MySensor.h> #include <SPI.h> #include <DallasTemperature.h> #include <OneWire.h> #define ONE_WIRE_BUS 3 // Pin where dallase sensor is connected #define MAX_ATTACHED_DS18B20 16 OneWire oneWire(ONE_WIRE_BUS); DallasTemperature sensors(&oneWire); float lastTemperature[MAX_ATTACHED_DS18B20]; int numSensors=0; //boolean receivedConfig = false; boolean metric = true; #define RELAY_1 5 // Arduino Digital I/O pin number for first relay (second on pin+1 etc) #define RELAY_2 6 #define RELAY_ON 1 // GPIO value to write to turn on attached relay #define RELAY_OFF 0 // GPIO value to write to turn off attached relay // Motion sensor defs unsigned long SLEEP_TIME = 10000; // Sleep time between reports (in milliseconds) #define DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR 4 // The digital input you attached your motion sensor. (Only 2 and 3 generates interrupt!) //#define INTERRUPT DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR-2 // Usually the interrupt = pin -2 (on uno/nano anyway) #define CHILD_ID 3 // Id of the sensor child boolean lastTrippedState; MySensor gw; // MyMessage msgTemp(0, V_TEMP); MyMessage msgRelay2(2, V_LIGHT); MyMessage msgMotion(3, V_TRIPPED); void setup() { gw.begin(incomingMessage, AUTO, true); gw.sendSketchInfo("Temp/Relay/Motion Sensor", "1.0"); // gw.present(1, S_LIGHT); pinMode(RELAY_1, OUTPUT); // gw.present(2, S_LIGHT); pinMode(RELAY_2, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(RELAY_1, gw.loadState(1)? RELAY_ON : RELAY_OFF); digitalWrite(RELAY_2, gw.loadState(1)? RELAY_ON : RELAY_OFF); pinMode(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR, INPUT); // sets the motion sensor digital pin as input // gw.present(CHILD_ID, S_MOTION); // Fetch the number of attached temperature sensors //numSensors = sensors.getDeviceCount(); // Present all sensors to controller //for (int i=0; i<numSensors && i<MAX_ATTACHED_DS18B20; i++) { gw.present(0, S_TEMP); //} } // void loop() { gw.process(); boolean tripped = digitalRead(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR) == HIGH; if (tripped != lastTrippedState) { Serial.println(tripped? "tripped" : "not tripped"); gw.send(msgMotion.set(tripped?"1":"0")); // Send tripped value to gw// //digitalWrite(RELAY_1, tripped? 1 : 0); } lastTrippedState = tripped; // Fetch temperatures from Dallas sensors sensors.requestTemperatures(); // Read temperatures and send them to controller //for (int i=0; i<numSensors && i<MAX_ATTACHED_DS18B20; i++) { // Fetch and round temperature to one decimal float temperature = static_cast<float>(static_cast<int>((gw.getConfig().isMetric?sensors.getTempCByIndex(0):sensors.getTempFByIndex(0)) * 10.)) / 10.; // Only send data if temperature has changed more then 1 degC and no error if (int(lastTemperature[0]) != int(temperature) && temperature != -127.00) { //added integer // Send in the new temperature gw.send(msgTemp.setSensor(0).set(temperature,1)); lastTemperature[0]=temperature; } //} } void incomingMessage(const MyMessage &message) { // if (message.type==V_LIGHT && message.sensor == 2) { // Change relay state digitalWrite(RELAY_2, message.getBool()?RELAY_ON:RELAY_OFF); // Store state in eeprom gw.saveState(message.sensor, message.getBool()); // Write some debug info Serial.print("Incoming change for sensor:"); Serial.print(message.sensor); Serial.print(", New status: "); Serial.println(message.getBool()); } }
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  Device Similar Vera
  9 May 2015, 18:59 • DanielD   10 May 2015, 04:42

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  10 May 2015, 04:42

  Hmm,Okay I willmake a ethernet getway, but I don't understand how I sync the sensr with her eheh
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  Power source for relay actuator
  8 May 2015, 21:22 • Moshe Livne   9 May 2015, 19:28

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  9 May 2015, 19:28

  @Cory said: I usually search for "ac usb" on ebay and get good results. So far i have been happy to find chargers like these. They support up to 240V and are small enough to fit into electrical boxes with the case on. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-US-Plug-USB-AC-Wall-Charger-Adapter-For-Samsung-iPad-iPhon-White-f20-/281681762352?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41958a9830 I typically get them for ~$0.70 each but have also won some bids for less. those modules not so safe to be inside a 220v box without ventilation they can burst in flames (its rare but imagine it happen once in 220v box and the all house could burn...) I open one once to see how can they fit in so small box and they just cut the PCB on half and connect one half to another with ribbon cable and fold the 2 pieces on on another with a thin foam to protect the capacitors...
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  Newb trying to build a 3 unit dimmer with control
  9 May 2015, 18:40 • DrJeff   9 May 2015, 18:40

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  Motion and lux meters combined in a single device
  15 Mar 2015, 12:53 • ferpando   9 May 2015, 16:49

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  9 May 2015, 16:49

  With the help from @korttoma & @AWI , I put together this sketch. I've tested it and it works. Have fun! #include <MySensor.h> #include <SPI.h> unsigned long SLEEP_TIME = 120000; // Sleep time between reports (in milliseconds) #define DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR 3 // The digital input you attached your motion sensor. (Only 2 and 3 generates interrupt!) #define INTERRUPT DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR-2 // Usually the interrupt = pin -2 (on uno/nano anyway) #define CHILD_ID 1 // Id of the sensor child #define LED_PIN 5 MySensor gw; // Initialize motion message MyMessage msg(CHILD_ID, V_TRIPPED); void setup() { gw.begin(); // Send the sketch version information to the gateway and Controller gw.sendSketchInfo("Motion Sensor", "1.0"); pinMode(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR, INPUT); // sets the motion sensor digital pin as input pinMode(LED_PIN, OUTPUT); // Register all sensors to gw (they will be created as child devices) gw.present(CHILD_ID, S_MOTION); } void loop() { // Read digital motion value boolean tripped = digitalRead(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR) == HIGH; Serial.println(tripped); gw.send(msg.set(tripped?"1":"0")); // Send tripped value to gw { if (tripped){ // from the "Blink" example sketch :-) digitalWrite(LED_PIN, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level) delay(1000); // wait for a second digitalWrite(LED_PIN, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW delay(1000); } // Sleep until interrupt comes in on motion sensor. Send update every two minute. gw.sleep(INTERRUPT,CHANGE, SLEEP_TIME); } }
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  ArduinoProMini to nRF24L patch PCB with battery holder and Switch
  6 May 2015, 22:39 • GaryStofer   8 May 2015, 23:29

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  8 May 2015, 23:29

  You can do it ! Tweezers and magnifying goggles ( from Harbor Fright ) and you are in business. Don't forget to set the Arduino to internal clock 8 mhz via fuse settings when rinning at 3V -- Most of them run without it but some might not be happy running 16mhz of the xtal at 3V .Gary
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  Custom made ethernet gateway based on atmega128
  2 Feb 2015, 18:03 • axillent   8 May 2015, 22:15

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  8 May 2015, 22:15

  @axillent Okay, I will try The sketch of the Plug, I will see that do many challenges, but let's go. I was reading the code the Ethernet getway, but i learn how i sync it with another sensor. Thx for your help
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  Real world estimation of NRF24L range
  8 May 2015, 13:59 • Chester   8 May 2015, 13:59

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  Programming the Arduino Pro Mini 3.3V
  26 Apr 2015, 12:56 • sj44k   8 May 2015, 02:21

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  8 May 2015, 02:21

  I understood that you can not make new uploads at 3.3V Arduino with your converter. the fact that the pre-loaded program work does not mean much because you only this feeding the Arduino. if the question is about having bought Arduino defective, and recording using another Arduino as ISP, this will show for you. if record, the problem is the pair converter / Arduino 3.3v. use another Arduino as a recorder. look in the Arduino sketch the ISP and you will understand the interconnection pins. if I get it wrong, forgive me, it is the difficulty with the language.
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  Using interrupts with an LDR (pro min)
  7 May 2015, 14:31 • shabba   7 May 2015, 15:27

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  7 May 2015, 15:27

  @maltimus Because on a dark day I was concerned this would not be enough to trigger. I intend to test it though!
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  strange behavior with receiving
  6 May 2015, 22:08 • Sweebee   6 May 2015, 22:08

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  433 / 868 MHz common temperature sensors
  5 May 2015, 08:22 • MSchmidke   5 May 2015, 13:05

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  5 May 2015, 13:05

  @MSchmidke Take a look at what Ray ( at rayshobby.net) has documented on this subject.
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  Repeaters in domoticz
  25 Apr 2015, 19:33 • shabba   5 May 2015, 08:19

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  5 May 2015, 08:19

  Go this going by playing with the ordering. I wiped sensors from domoticz and turned on repeater node. Then I restarted domoticz - then opened my reed switch (outside electric gate) - this caused the gate to be registered. I then had to reset the repeater (it is a buzzer and led actuator) for that to be seen in domoitcz also. A bit convoluted but got there. Guess this could trip many up. Thanks all.
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  Checking if the air conditioning is on
  28 Apr 2015, 01:58 • Moshe Livne   5 May 2015, 05:53

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  5 May 2015, 05:53

  @Chester That is actually a great idea.... From what I read elsewhere it seems that the cheap hall sensors are not that sensitive so your idea should be the bestest... Thanks!!!
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  ICSP Programmer Adapter
  3 May 2015, 15:43 • Roberto Brunialti   4 May 2015, 20:15

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  4 May 2015, 20:15

  The adapter itself does'nt hold a pcb. You have to use ... your hands or a table clamp. Neverthless it is really usefull...
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  Version mismatch
  2 May 2015, 18:14 • doblanch   3 May 2015, 20:33

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  3 May 2015, 20:33

  Yes of course...anyway "version mismatch" should not appear due to wire issue
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  PIR sensor unreliable
  1 May 2015, 22:16 • Sweebee   2 May 2015, 07:17

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  2 May 2015, 07:17

  I just found out that my gateway is not working great. I made a new one but i don't know why the other is not working good? Solved it, it was not the gateway, it was a repeater node that couldn't pass the messages all the time.
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  How to read from atmega328p with raspberrypi
  1 May 2015, 11:10 • henkoegema   1 May 2015, 11:10

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  Motion/Humidity on Pro Mini ?
  30 Apr 2015, 15:36 • petoulachi   30 Apr 2015, 16:06

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  30 Apr 2015, 16:06

  I know about the step-down yes, that's why I'm guessing that the VCC for the radio cannot be used for the sensors as they use 5V (using thoses ) I'm not sure I've understood the part about capacitors. Are you suggesting me to add capacitors for every sensors ? I have thoses, do they fit my needs ? The pro-mini will be powered using this . I hope everything's fine ! regards,
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  IR Sensor
  19 Feb 2015, 07:03 • Terence Faul   29 Apr 2015, 04:38

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  29 Apr 2015, 04:38

  @jeylites Vera does support scene controller also and it is working great in UI5. I have no experience with UI7 but I bet it works.
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  Bridging to remote location, only 2 conductors available.
  27 Apr 2015, 13:31 • bob543   28 Apr 2015, 09:27

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  28 Apr 2015, 09:27

  @bob543 you could probably use rs485 (isolated) for this..
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  atmega328 tqfp pcb design
  26 Apr 2015, 13:03 • Mickey   27 Apr 2015, 10:52

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  27 Apr 2015, 10:52

  @Mickey No, you need one 100nF on each supply pin. (don't have datasheet at hand, so can't remember how many supply pins there are). Place it as close as possible to the supply pins.
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  Multi Button Relay switch
  17 Feb 2015, 06:39 • Terence Faul   26 Apr 2015, 18:40

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  26 Apr 2015, 18:40

  @rvendrame Ever since I removed ACK & true, I have not been having any fails at all. Everything works and I have posted the final sketch in Array Relay Button Actuator as linked below... Hope it comes in handy. Thanks again MYS community! http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1299/array-relay-button-actuator/12
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  BMP180 breakout board on low voltage
  bmp180 • 23 Apr 2015, 21:19 • danta   24 Apr 2015, 15:06

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  24 Apr 2015, 15:06

  That was indeed the plan. 2 full batteries in series will start of at 3.0V and if they're empty, the voltage will have dropped to 1.6V But to be fair, I'll be happy if it still works at 1.8V, because that’s the voltage the atmega328 will start to fail.
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  Gerber/Eagle files and then...?
  17 Apr 2015, 08:02 • gadu   24 Apr 2015, 11:41

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  24 Apr 2015, 11:41

  Try pcbshopper.com, to search multiple fab houses based on your board requirements.
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  Help understanding addressing and log messages
  23 Jan 2015, 18:50 • xefil   24 Apr 2015, 10:45

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  24 Apr 2015, 10:45

  @pete1450 said: Based on this: http://www.mysensors.org/build/serial_api Example 1 id Node-id 0 Child-id 0 internal message no ack payload is type I_LOG_MESSAGE and your actual payload is "read: 21-20-0 s=0,c=1,t=0,pt=7,l=5:16.7" EDIT: I'm not sure if there is an easier place to get this, but I looked in the code for process where it prints "read" messages and found this to describe the payload. Send is also in there. Mysensor.cpp Line 221-222
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  Surface Mount ATMega328p-AU sensor board.
  smd pool • 19 Jan 2015, 19:58 • maltimus   21 Apr 2015, 03:02

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  21 Apr 2015, 03:02

  I have been using an old(cheap) wall-to-USB power supply. I'll give it a try with a beefier supply and let you know the results I get.
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  All in one board with apple phone charger brick wrap.
  arduino temperature humidity led proximity • 13 Jan 2015, 16:58 • destos   18 Apr 2015, 14:53

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  18 Apr 2015, 14:53

  @destos Wow!
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  Sensornodes: XAmbi Kid's
  16 Apr 2015, 12:30 • Frank Herrmann   17 Apr 2015, 10:04

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  17 Apr 2015, 10:04

  @scalz exactly .. synchronization ...
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  IR distance sensor usage?
  infrared proximity distance • 14 Apr 2015, 18:40 • hetbeest   16 Apr 2015, 17:45

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  16 Apr 2015, 17:45

  I did some quick coding, combining it with a temperature sensor. It did work for a couple of hours, after that my 9V battery was drained so far that I didn't get any data send from the sensors anymore. Quite likely the IR sensor uses a lot of power while it keeps transmitting IR. Anyhow, my quick and dirty code is: // Example sketch showing how to send in OneWire temperature readings #include <MySensor.h> #include <SPI.h> #include <DallasTemperature.h> #include <OneWire.h> #include <DistanceGP2Y0A21YK.h> #define ONE_WIRE_BUS 3 // Pin where dallase sensor is connected #define MAX_ATTACHED_DS18B20 16 #define CHILD_ID_DISTANCE 25 DistanceGP2Y0A21YK Dist; unsigned long SLEEP_TIME = 500; // Sleep time between reads (in milliseconds) OneWire oneWire(ONE_WIRE_BUS); DallasTemperature sensors(&oneWire); MySensor gw; float lastTemperature[MAX_ATTACHED_DS18B20]; int numSensors=0; boolean receivedConfig = false; boolean metric = true; int distance; int lastDistance=0; int loopCounter=0; int loopsBetweenTemp = 60; // Initialize temperature message MyMessage msg(0,V_TEMP); MyMessage msgdist(CHILD_ID_DISTANCE,V_DISTANCE); void setup() { // Startup OneWire sensors.begin(); Dist.begin(0); // Startup and initialize MySensors library. Set callback for incoming messages. gw.begin(); // Send the sketch version information to the gateway and Controller gw.sendSketchInfo("Temperature and Distance Sensor", "1.0"); gw.present(CHILD_ID_DISTANCE,S_DISTANCE); // Fetch the number of attached temperature sensors numSensors = sensors.getDeviceCount(); // Present all sensors to controller for (int i=0; i<numSensors && i<MAX_ATTACHED_DS18B20; i++) { gw.present(i, S_TEMP); } } void loop() { // Process incoming messages (like config from server) gw.process(); distance = Dist.getDistanceCentimeter(); if (distance != lastDistance) { lastDistance = distance; gw.send(msgdist.set(distance)); } if (loopCounter == 0) { // Fetch temperatures from Dallas sensors sensors.requestTemperatures(); // Read temperatures and send them to controller for (int i=0; i<numSensors && i<MAX_ATTACHED_DS18B20; i++) { // Fetch and round temperature to one decimal float temperature = static_cast<float>(static_cast<int>((gw.getConfig().isMetric?sensors.getTempCByIndex(i):sensors.getTempFByIndex(i)) * 10.)) / 10.; // Only send data if temperature has changed and no error if (lastTemperature[i] != temperature && temperature != -127.00) { // Send in the new temperature gw.send(msg.setSensor(i).set(temperature,1)); lastTemperature[i]=temperature; } } } if (++loopCounter >= loopsBetweenTemp) loopCounter = 0; gw.sleep(SLEEP_TIME); }
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  Power emission of NRF
  14 Apr 2015, 21:04 • lunarok   16 Apr 2015, 13:04

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  16 Apr 2015, 13:04

  @lunarok about power emission .. I test it in my house .. WiFi is different .. but in 2.4Ghz is problem with signal mirroring .. receiver detect more signal , all are same but little delayed .. then receiver not receive signal correct .. in free area there are not mirroring signal then with low output power can get long distance .. and low power consumption.. but in Built up area is better to use 868Mhz or 433Mhz .. there is also mirroring but less then 2.4Ghz . I can test only nRF24L01+ with nRF905 or CC1101 .. but in fact .. in CC1101 or nRF905 is possible to set lower transmission speed then get longer distance .. best regards.. or not ???
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  MySensors on A20 (sun7i) chip (cubieboard2, banana pi)
  1 Mar 2015, 17:44 • Maxim Aleshin   13 Apr 2015, 12:48

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  13 Apr 2015, 12:48

  Please share the solution, I'm using OrangePi (quite 'better' clone of BananaPi from China), it's superb fast but would like to have nRF-serial gateway straight from board.
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  Ready to go kit (for the lazy!)
  12 Apr 2015, 09:20 • shabba   13 Apr 2015, 10:46

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  13 Apr 2015, 10:46

  @hek One thing is, that salaries is much lower in China, than Europe/USA. Another thing could be that the government is funding the postal service, in order to get as cheap shipping FROM china, as possible. Doesn't explain things with itead though, but in general I would expect that it's like that.
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  Raspberry PI Interface
  11 Apr 2015, 14:55 • lafleur   11 Apr 2015, 14:55

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  Confused...sensors hook up to what?
  9 Apr 2015, 23:47 • A Former User   10 Apr 2015, 11:37

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  10 Apr 2015, 11:37

  Check the shop part of the mysensors.org website you will be amazed Just be sure that you buy any Arduino with at least the ATmega328. I made a mistake buying the Arduino Mini with an ATmega168 micro controller (which is also available) but this has only half the amount of Flash Memory and EEPROM. This makes it unusable for the sketches you will find on MySensors.org, and the price difference between the 2 types of Arduinos is a matter of cents.
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  IR Sketch
  28 Feb 2015, 13:49 • Terence Faul   7 Apr 2015, 13:04

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  7 Apr 2015, 13:04

  @Terence-Faul : did you still get this issue ? around that time (1 month ago) there was a beta release of the plugin creating such error of loops, nothing about IR (my fault) @hek : IRLib decode the message, so it's not so long, around 12 characters. I use it myself, the node send to the controler any code received and you can store them. I have a scenario in Jeedom that is storing all codes receive until I erase it, like this pressing multiples button, I get all of them. After that, you can create a V_IR_SEND and as the input use any of the codes you have received. But must be working only for a protocole decoded by IRLib (at that time, I have try only my Sony remote) If not decoded, yes RAW message is too long to be used. And of course better to know what type of protocol it is so (but it's possible to send this value in another sensor for exemple) My bigger problem with this library, it's the hardcoded Sender in PIN 3 (I don't understand why, and make me impossible to use a motion sensor at same time)
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  Temp/Humidity/Light Sensor on battery
  3 Apr 2015, 13:41 • Dheeraj   6 Apr 2015, 17:30

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  6 Apr 2015, 17:30

  @Dwalt actually the sketch is simple. #include <SPI.h> #include <MySensor.h> #include <DHT.h> #define CHILD_ID_HUM 0 #define CHILD_ID_TEMP 1 #define CHILD_ID_LIGHT 2 #define HUMIDITY_SENSOR_DIGITAL_PIN 4 #define BATTERY_SENSE_PIN A0 // select the input pin for the battery sense point #define LIGHT_SENSOR_ANALOG_PIN A1 unsigned long SLEEP_TIME = 60000; // Sleep time between reads (in milliseconds) MySensor gw; DHT dht; float lastTemp; float lastHum; boolean metric = true; MyMessage msgHum(CHILD_ID_HUM, V_HUM); MyMessage msgTemp(CHILD_ID_TEMP, V_TEMP); MyMessage msg(CHILD_ID_LIGHT, V_LIGHT_LEVEL); int oldBatteryPcnt = 0; int battLoop =0; int lightLevel =0; int lastLightLevel =0; void setup() { gw.begin(NULL,15); dht.setup(HUMIDITY_SENSOR_DIGITAL_PIN); // Send the Sketch Version Information to the Gateway gw.sendSketchInfo("Temp Humidity Light", "1.0"); // Register all sensors to gw (they will be created as child devices) gw.present(CHILD_ID_HUM, S_HUM); gw.present(CHILD_ID_TEMP, S_TEMP); gw.present(CHILD_ID_LIGHT, S_LIGHT_LEVEL); metric = gw.getConfig().isMetric; check_batt(); } void loop() { delay(dht.getMinimumSamplingPeriod()); float temperature = dht.getTemperature(); if (isnan(temperature)) { Serial.println("Failed reading temperature from DHT"); } else if (temperature != lastTemp) { lastTemp = temperature; if (!metric) { temperature = dht.toFahrenheit(temperature); } gw.send(msgTemp.set(temperature, 1)); Serial.print("T: "); Serial.println(temperature); } float humidity = dht.getHumidity(); if (isnan(humidity)) { Serial.println("Failed reading humidity from DHT"); } else if (humidity != lastHum) { lastHum = humidity; gw.send(msgHum.set(humidity, 1)); Serial.print("H: "); Serial.println(humidity); } lightLevel = (analogRead(LIGHT_SENSOR_ANALOG_PIN))/10.23; if (lightLevel != lastLightLevel) { Serial.println(lightLevel); gw.send(msg.set(lightLevel)); lastLightLevel = lightLevel; } battLoop++; if (battLoop > 10) { check_batt(); battLoop=0; } gw.sleep(SLEEP_TIME); //sleep a bit } void check_batt() { // get the battery Voltage int sensorValue = analogRead(BATTERY_SENSE_PIN); Serial.println(sensorValue); // 1M, 470K divider across battery and using internal ADC ref of 1.1V // Sense point is bypassed with 0.1 uF cap to reduce noise at that point // ((1e6+470e3)/470e3)*1.1 = Vmax = 3.44 Volts // 3.44/1023 = Volts per bit = 0.003363075 // vout = (sensorvalue x 3.3) / 1023 //vin = vout / (R2/(R1+R2)); float batteryV = ( sensorValue * 0.003225806 ) / 0.3; // divide R2/(R1+R2) int batteryPcnt = sensorValue / 10 ; if ( batteryPcnt > 100 ) batteryPcnt = 100; Serial.print("Battery Voltage: "); Serial.print(batteryV); Serial.println(" V"); Serial.print("Battery percent: "); Serial.print(batteryPcnt); Serial.println(" %"); if (oldBatteryPcnt != batteryPcnt) { // Power up radio after sleep gw.sendBatteryLevel(batteryPcnt); oldBatteryPcnt = batteryPcnt; } } //```
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  MQTT gateway and freedomotic
  6 Apr 2015, 04:36 • Totche   6 Apr 2015, 04:36

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  Anyone using electronic transformers to power the nodes?
  4 Apr 2015, 13:45 • ferpando   4 Apr 2015, 21:49

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  4 Apr 2015, 21:49

  It needs a minimum load onthe output, in order to function correctly. If this minimum requirement is not met, the output couod become unstable, and self oscillate. I've Seen this with an electronic transformer for halogen lights, where i use led lamps instead. Needed 1-2 halogen spots on it (it supplies 5 spots in total) in order for the electronic transformator to work correctly
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  Any suggestion to use arduino 328p internal temperature as ambient temp.
  4 Apr 2015, 18:08 • Dheeraj   4 Apr 2015, 21:31

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  4 Apr 2015, 21:31

  @Dheeraj Personally I think it's interesting, but I also know it¨s been rejected in earlier discussions. It requires calibration, low-power and low activity arduino use. And even then, the accuracy isn't very impressive. I would still like to play a little and maybe use it as a complement in some projects. We'll see.
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  Decoupler capacitor
  2 Apr 2015, 16:04 • Sweebee   2 Apr 2015, 18:38

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  2 Apr 2015, 18:38

  Thank you. And what about the low ESR capacitors?
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  Mini battery sensor
  battery micro sesnor • 2 Apr 2015, 05:44 • Ivan Z   2 Apr 2015, 15:46

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  2 Apr 2015, 15:46

  Thank Sensor ready work. (I have not valid binary Optiboot)
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  This topic is deleted!
  1 Apr 2015, 15:01 • vladimir   1 Apr 2015, 15:01

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  Compact design relay with button
  29 Mar 2015, 11:35 • kanchana   30 Mar 2015, 10:40

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  30 Mar 2015, 10:40

  @jendrush At the moment 5v use one of the
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  Powering with LiPo a mini pro without regulator
  23 Mar 2015, 19:00 • Viper_Scull   26 Mar 2015, 19:29

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  26 Mar 2015, 19:29

  @m26872 This is mostly a matter of opinion. There are several options available. Personally, I will design so that I have three options to choose from depending on the sensor type (and long term measurement data)
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  USBTinyISP and arduino pro mini 3.3V
  26 Mar 2015, 09:22 • dakky   26 Mar 2015, 13:54

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  26 Mar 2015, 13:54

  this will work i think, but not sure what will happen, after removing the regulator from the pro (http://iot-playground.com/2-uncategorised/9-arduino-low-power-sensor). I hate it, that i don't find any useful documentation about my usbtiny grml
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  Newbie Gateway
  25 Mar 2015, 22:04 • Brett Jenkins   26 Mar 2015, 10:13

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  26 Mar 2015, 10:13

  Yes, Nano is a bit bigger, but have own usb-serial chip so you can program it directly and have onboard 5-3.3 output. Keep forgetting that:) So if size is not an issue, got with the Nano...
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  FTDI Programer board
  18 Feb 2015, 17:04 • Terence Faul   26 Mar 2015, 08:28

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  26 Mar 2015, 08:28

  @dakky No, it can not set fuses.. You need a ISP programmer for that. There are lot's of "cheap" isp programmers around, even an arduino can be made into a ISP programmer.
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  Security for mySensors
  xtea secure • 24 Mar 2015, 10:06 • dzairo   25 Mar 2015, 19:36

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  25 Mar 2015, 19:36

  I don't know .. but ideally is if nrf24l01 set ack with payload .. and this payload will contain random number or rtc time .. encrypted with xtea . all node or repeater if receive ack then got this number or rtc time .. and use in next packet .. nrf24l01 chip can make 50%work alone .. node if send data packet then wait for hardware ack . and this ack can contain payload .. this payload will be starting point ..gw will generate actual payload for ack sequence .. It's just idea ..