General Discussion

@eiten Ran into the same error but of course the community is always at hand, ready to help! Great! I'm using MySensors 2.3.2 release version. Downgrading the ESP8266 board library to 2.7.4 as suggested by @OldSurferDude did the trick. I'm still clinging to MySensors. So simple and inexpensive to use! All sensors and other stuff connects over three MQTT GW in three locations back to my Home Assistant. PS: Get well soon! Regards, Gunnar

@OldSurferDude Thanks a very valued to know. I was wondering today why my (big) powerbanks fall down after short time. I have small 1 & 2-pieces powerbanks, they work very well. I use also BSM hw-168 or hw-107 for charging single 18650. Will try to use them outside also with small solarpanels.

@OldSurferDude My old 2.0 setup is with nRF24L01 radios. This is a link to the thread on some light switches that I designed and built. https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/7376/us-decora-wall-switch-continued/2 I am aware that you cannot have two MQTT gatways. When I designed my old setup I was not that familiar with MQTT so I never ended up implementing it. On the home assistant server that I have set up though, I have installed the MQTT broker on there so I should be able to comunicate with any MySensors stuff over MQTT in the future devices I make/set up. As I mentioned, I do have a Home Assistant box that I have started about 4 months ago and eventually want to migrate my Vera equipment to the HA box. As for the YAML and Python, I'll muddle my way through. used to program in PHP and have done enough on Arduino that I'm sure it won't hurt my brain too much.

@mimaret It was a pleasure. Thank you for your feedback!

It has been a long time but I’ve learned a few things that I wanted to share. This library of information (Thank you NeverDie and others) has been so helpful in my hobby developments. Software Defined Radios for signal analysis. With the help of Andreas Spiess explanation of IQ transformations, I learned about Software Defined Radios and I bought one (RTL-SDR). Using this I can clearly discriminate between effective 433 MHz transmitters and bad ones. Not only is the signal density displayed on the software (SDR#) but so is the frequency. Power Profiler Kit II has been indispensable in watching power usage and seeing into the details of the radio transmission. In effect this thing has saved me from buying an oscilloscope for my simple little bench. Tonight, I saw this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9nycymUd-I It describes common PCB errors. It is too advanced for me, but I did pick-up a few ideas about ground planes (tip #6 from the video). I hope this is of some value for folks.

After re-installing the previous 32bit raspbian version, the gateway seems to work ok. It seems to me there is a problem with the 64bit version.

Of possible interest: Here's a guy who is building an inexpensive open source ethernet controller for stepper motors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80j7L1H61Hw If you listen to the end, it's revealed that there is now generous funding available which allows people to do this kind of open-source development as a full time job, which is what he is now doing. For that reason, I think there's a good chance he will complete his project within the allowed 6 months., and so by the deadline it will likely be nicely polished.

@skywatch said in Awesome tip: run LinuxFX instead of Windows!: @NeverDie Thanks - Interestingly they show a free version on their site still. Did they revert due to bad publicity? https://www.linuxfx.org/ I stopped following it, but I seem to recollect that the free version was noticeably missing things--otherwise, who'd buy the paid-for version? Anyway, its standing on Distro-watch has fallen considerably. It may seem unfair to niche distros, but I think it's generally better to stick with the more popular distros, unless you have good reason to choose otherwise.

Some humidity sensors are known to lose accuracy with age. For instance, the Si7021 is known to have this problem. If that matters to you, then the best choice is to pick sensors that have datasheets and which have specs as to their expected longevity or accuracy over time. Then buy from mouser/digikey to be certain you're getting the real thing rather than factory rejects or counterfeits. For extra insurance, I avoid electrolytic capacitors entirely whenever possible. I buy only 7XR rated ceramic capacitors that are overspec'd. The difference in price is small compared to a failure down the road.

@Matt Yes, I was going to suggest this

Thank you @eiten for you suggestion. I will try it. I wanted to be independent from HA, just as a fail safe in case of problems. I am not relying on the time keeping of the arduino, but on a real time clock module.

@Tmaster What I meant by my previous comment was to tap on the Node name to see what sensors were connected - Had you clicked on TANQUE you would have seen a box pop up below giving you all the children to that particular Node with what value was last updated and when, so you could easily have found out all about your mysterious 13 children. At least you have it sorted now, but it pays to do a bit of housekeeping in the sketch setup and Domoticz - eg which of the 6 "Unknown" Nodes is the one you want to next have a look at ? All my Node IDs are set at the Node, and the sketch name labels the Node ID also, the Nodes are named in Domoticz for easy identification. In the sketch my sensors are numbered sequentially and commented on what they are, so naming them in Domoticz becomes very much easier.

i use the simplest boxes that you find,that suface mount with 4 screws and ruber on door. But be carefull with wall mount screws. if you drill the back of the box ,water come in beind this box. so this ones,the scrfew holes are outside the encosure an box is sealed... another tip is drill on bottom for pass cables but put some neutral silicone. hot glue let water come in with time because expansion coeficient is diferent that the plastic box and open gaps [image: 1690364728368-4c9e3f72-078c-46a9-9750-e0f495712c7c-image.png]

Hello@jemish Yes, it is possible to create a smart water level detector for your home water tank using an ultrasonic sensor or a float switch connected to a microcontroller with wireless connectivity.

@TheoL that's not the dimmer's fault a far as I am concerned. It behaves the same way at full brightness. It's just a cheap chinese driver in it.

^^^This. Good point. Maybe do some testing with RadioLib to see whether or not you experience the same problem.

@monte said in Replace 2.4GHz remote controllers: "Mysensors fonctionne selon son propre protocole et ne prend en charge aucun produit commercial" yes the beginning of a track can be useful for you ? https://github.com/Yveaux/NRF24_Sniffer https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/39348/decoding-2-4g-rf-remote-controller