General Discussion

@jamzm what are you looking for in particular? I use a ProMini with the Door/Window/Button switch. The sketch is modified to always sleep and wake up on change. (https://www.mysensors.org/build/binary), with a reed switch (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32468849883.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dYn4UwZ) The sensor is powered with two AAA batteries. The case is actually from a real door/alarm system from aliexpress which I first wanted to hack but then decided to strip the electrnics out and build it myself. I use a NC reed switch to save additional power (when door is closed mainly). If you are interested more in the other part of my answer, I use OpenHAB as a controller. I have extensive rules to react base on an "uncontrolled" opening of a door or window. This could be anything from turning lights on to send an email to your phone, triggering an external security company or enabling your sprinkler ;-)

Or was the valve type RA :/ That has z-wave actuator

Reporting back: Testing some cheap aliexpress 3mm red or yellow through-hole LED's, I found they required around 10ua to have decent visibility. Other LEDs that I got from amazon required several hundred microamps to be equally visible. However, running this 25 cent CREE green LED at 1ua at around 2.5v was sufficient to be dimly visible: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/941-C503BGASCB0F0792 Even 500na was enough, though at less than that it becomes dodgy. Part of the credit goes to narrowly focused optics. Also, 10ms was enough. So, 1ua at 1Hz with a 1% duty cycle means just 10na on average. Not bad! The pulsing actually makes it easier to see than it just being constantly turned on, I presume because of better contrast. I haven't yet tried it at night, but so far this is already better than what I was expecting a priori. Putting it at the bottom of a black tube might also be interesting to try: you'd get improved contrast, and with the narrow optics maybe little light would be sacrificed to the blackness of the tube Anyone here found an LED that's more efficient than this one? Or is this already about as good as it's likely to get?

@sghazagh When seraching for this file on google, I come across this hit: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/61029226/how-do-i-install-libraries-for-stropts-h It states stropts.h is deprecated, and apparently the gateway doesn't use it, only includes it. Could you file a bug report here to remove this include please?

Is this possible?

Thank you @dzjr I am not sure how it happened, but I am also very happy of the pleasant and supportive tone on the forum.

@cloolalang it depends on the underlying transport protocol. Some use csma (rfm69 with new driver), some aloha (nrf24), some tri-state (rs485). I don't think MySensors has assembled documentation covering that angle.

@GarethBirkett no worries man, you described somehow how it functioned ;-) I just newer heard of a oil vaporizing AGA cooker/stove :-)

@Joost I did misread your initial post - the keyword in your question "both parties". I haven't come across something like that because I never look for it. In my setup, I can easily power a gateway with continuous uninterrupted power supply. A listening device must always be on unless both the sender and receive have some sort of an agreement as to when the sender will transmit data - so that they receiver can wake up, listen to data and sleep again. I am not technically sound at all when it comes to programming - but then there are others here who may have the skill to draw up a sketch which does that. However, if you are looking to a battery operated temperature/humidity node - yeah those are available. Cheers

There are more messages than just the presentation messages that don't show in the HA logs, like find parent. You should check the actual GW debug output when this situation occurs to see them. This would be really necessary if you ask me, otherwise it can't be seen what happens to the gw to make it hang.

Hello Thanks it worked -- with mock sensor sketch for now. I think I should be able to use this in production. :-) Cheers Puneit

Quite a large number of inexpensive nRF51/nRF52832 watches which appear to have already been hacked, documented, and made available for others to now hack too: https://github.com/curtpw/nRF5x-device-reverse-engineering

@NeverDie Nah, I'm fine. It's always helpful to get opinions and views from others, especially if they are more experienced in the matter, if only to set one's own viewpoint straight. I'm grateful for all you guys replies, but I don't feel like bothering Microchip with this. Regarding Nordic - besides the circulating copies / clones (like the SI24R1), I guess it's also not helping that they are fabless, unlike Atmel / Microchip, in which case it seems totally reasonable that the various fabs may have slight marking variations. I just didn't expect that from those ATmegas which seem to have been produced in one and the same factory. But it's certainly a neat touch from Nordic to offer a free test.

@Boots33 Thanks a lot for the quick response. I now have my Nano running as a serial gateway and it is connected via a USB cable directly to my controller (Raspberry Pi 4 running Home Assistant / Hass.io). I added a local motion sensor to the Nano gateway HW and pasted the mysensors MotionSensor example code to the setup(), presentation() and loop() functions as well as to the definitions in the top of the GatewaySerial example code. I disabled the radio definitions as I currently have no radio capability in my gateway (not sure if this was necessary). In Home Assistant / Hass.io I updated the configuration.yaml with the following text (as described on the Home Assistant integration help): mysensors: gateways: - device: '/dev/ttyUSB0' And it works :) In Home Assistant Developer Tools under States I can now see my motion sensor go on and off by the flick of my hand. I had expected a bit more bumps on the road just to get this far, but wow - I am obviously walking in the foot prints of people who have worked hard to make it easy for the rest of us. I am sure I will hit bumps on the way when the radios have to send results to the gateway (thick concrete walls with lots of steel), but for now I will enjoy this big success. Thanks again Boots33

PS: one downside will probably be not being able to wake up programmatically and double the node as a e.g. temperature / climate sensor, as I had in mind. Sorry for the confusion above, too little sleep in the last days (at least I hope that explains it :-) ) Perhaps @Yveaux can help here on how to combine pin change interrupts and timer wake into a successful sleep() command? So far it looks like that would be possible with Low-Power lib, but this is not compiling in conjunction with MySensors 2.3.2.